body removal

[Pilo-Wedgebits]

Nice to put some faces to names - good luck with the work Blaine

Shaun

[TVRleigh_BBWR]

Just out of interest how many people did it take to lift it, as be taking mine off next weekend.

Anyone in the Essex Area, want to help, I think I can get enough people but the more the better.

Thanks
Leigh

[petclub]

Hi Leigh, I think there were about 12 of us. It might be worth you postinf on the TVRCC site as well.

Also, Barkychoc is in the process of removing his S body. He is attempting to do it with pulleys and if you look at the S forum, there may be some pics that might help.

Good luck!

[TVRleigh_BBWR]

wow 12, I think you could lift the whole car with 12 ppl,

I've carried a 400SE chassis with one other person. and I', only 9 stone.
Plus carried a Rv8 engine with one other person also.

I was thinking of lifting the whole car. then putting the body on blocks, and then droping the car, back down again.

I would think more people would be better if you worried about stress cracks. but the race car is going to get re-preped and sprayed anyway. so not too much of a problem for me.

Edited by TVRleigh_BBWR on Monday 14th January 12:21

[pistolar]

Try using two engine hoists

[TVRleigh_BBWR]

I'm still going to need people to help me move it into the truck for storage.

so need to know how many people it will take to move it.

[.Woody]

So whats the procedure for raising the body on a 400SE then? Anyone got a link somewhere?

[pwd95]

Go for it Woody, you know you want to ...

[pwd95]

Ang on ere iw go....this lot was taken from here somewhere recently.




TVR 400SE – Removal of Body from Chassis

FULL DETAILS


1. GENERAL COMMENTS

• Take lots of photos before you start and as you proceed
• Label all wiring connections as they are being disconnected
• Bag and label small loose items, bolts for specific fittings etc
• Label all hoses/pipes being disconnected. If the hose is removed completely and is “shaped” - mark one end connection
• Useful sources of labels are freezer bag tags you can write on (from “Lakeland Ltd” or similar source) – also use masking tape.
• Small “zip fastened” bags are useful (My local source is “Office World” – stationery supplier – described as “write on bags&#8221
• CAUTION – the following refers to a specific 1989 built 1990 registered TVR 400 SE with “Flapper” air flow meter for engine – there may be differences of location or fittings on other cars.
• All bolts/nuts directly tightening on to fibreglass should be backed up with penny washers in order to spread load
• Bolt sizes appear to be mostly metric sizes around the body, but engine and some fittings use A/F sizes
• When body is off chassis keep doors closed– they stiffen the body
• Basic philosophy – leave engine and running gear on chassis, main wiring harness in body.

2. PROCEDURE USED

In this case the car was on a workshop four post hoist (lorry hoist)

Disconnections made as listed separately below – item 3.


BODY/CHASSIS DISMOUNTING SEQUENCE

Mark wheel positions on hoist

Support body on 4 tall axle stands located at front of foot wells and base of bulkhead behind seats

Mark positions of axle stands on floor. (spray paint and numbered location)

Lower hoist slowly – check body separating from mounting points

Mark rubber shims/location – different thickness may be used at individual locations

Pass “support tubes” over top of chassis close to axle stands

Raise body so support tubes take weight off axle stands

Re-position axle stands outboard of hoist

Lower hoist so tubes/body land on tall axle stands

Roll chassis out from under body

Raise hoist and pick up body (on support tubes) with hoist

Remove axle stands

Fit additional support at rear overhang of body (under boot) and in front of front wheel arches – just enough to take weight of overhanging body and avoid any “sagging” at ends over time.


Materials :-

• 1 length (7.8 metres) of 76mm outside diameter 3mm wall thickness mild steel tube (cut into 2 pieces) was more than enough to span the lorry hoist used in this case)
• 4 Tall axle stands
• Various wooden blocks

Alternative possible lifting methods for body

- use two post hoist – I understand this is used with the arms lifting body off chassis at locations close to wheel arches (I believe Peninsula Automotive use this method)

- a squad of strong friends prepared to “grunt” a bit ( I know 8 people is sufficient for a Reliant Scimitar GTE possibly 6 would do for an open TVR) – untried by me!

- jack up a corner at a time and support on blocks – raise a small amount each time (max 1 inch) to avoid twisting body too much.





3. DISCONNECTIONS


Disconnect and remove battery (contact car alarm/immobiliser supplier for procedure to follow when disconnecting battery - if alarm is fitted)


INSIDE


1. Remove seats (Note there may be spacers under the rear of the seats) – four bolts each seat
2. Remove seat belt securing bolts from the side of the transmission tunnel (note spacers underneath on these bolts between body and chassis)
3. Remove outer seat belt bolts from floor/chassis
4. Remove gear lever knob
5. Remove footwell carpets
6. Remove bolts through floor at outer corner of footwell (1 each side)
7. Remove rear quarter trim (and speakers)
8. Disconnect shoulder and reel bolts for seatbelts
9. Disconnect bolts (2 each side) through floor which secure tubular support for roof and shoulder mounting for seat belt (behind “b” post)
10. Disconnect 2 bolts through boot floor securing body to chassis





UNDERNEATH

1. Disconnect speedometer cable from gearbox
2. Remove/find spacers between body and chassis in way of inner bolts of seat belts – on sides of transmission tunnel (Total 4 pieces)
3. Disconnect fuel inlet hose to fuel pump and drain fuel tanks
4. Disconnect swirl pot hoses at left and right fuel tanks and hose at fuel pump
5. Disconnect small bore hose (vent to LH tank) from top of swirlpot
6. Remove fuel swirlpot
7. Remove upper hose between fuel tanks (at top of tanks)
8. Disconnect fuel return hose from engine to near side fuel tank at in-line connector below nearside fuel tank
9. Disconnect wiring from fuel pump (note: + and – connections)
10. Disconnect fuel tank level gauge wiring at sender on offside fuel tank
11. Disconnect handbrake cable from callipers
12. Remove exhaust finishing trim through rear body (secured by 1 pinch bolt)
13. Remove exhaust final bend
14. Remove exhaust support under boot (2 bolts)
15. Cut various cable ties securing hoses and wiring
16. Disconnect earth wire from nearside shock absorber (upper) bracket on chassis. (Check is same on off side)
17. Disconnect starter solenoid wire (small wire on spade terminal)
18. Drain cooling water via radiator hose connection
19. Disconnect 2 bolts securing body to chassis front cross tube (near radiator bottom)





UNDER BONNET / ENGINE BAY



1. Remove bonnet
2. Cut various cable ties
3. Unbolt oil filter bracket from body
4. Unbolt oil thermostat from body)
5. Hand starter cable from battery on engine
6. Disconnect throttle cable at plenum end
7. Disconnect bonnet release cable at latch end (if threaded through hoses/wiring on engine
8. Unplug power resistor and air flow meter connections
9. Remove air flow meter and ducting to plenum (cover over plenum inlet)
10. Disconnect heater water valve cable at valve
11. Disconnect fuel pipes to engine (mark which is which)
12. Disconnect and remove main water pipes between engine and radiator
13. Disconnect 2 hoses at radiator header tank (mark which is which) and hang over engine
14. Disconnect earth wiring (from front) at resistor block securing bolt
15. Disconnect wiring from resistor blocks (mark which is which)
16. Disconnect wiring to horn
17. Disconnect earth connection wire from ignition coil mounting bolt
18. Disconnect 2 hoses to heater
19. Disconnect earth strap from rear offside engine lifting bracket
20. Disconnect 2 earth connections from rear nearside engine lifting bracket
21. Disconnect wire to oil pressure switch
22. Disconnect wire to oil pressure transmitter
23. Disconnect alternator wiring (2 wires)
24. Disconnect wire to temperature sensor at front of block
25. Disconnect electrical plug at distributor
26. Disconnect link wire from offside engine wiring harness at nearside wiring harness (round plug/socket)
27. Unplug 4 offside fuel injector wiring plugs
28. Unplug 1 wiring connector at offside of plenum
29. Unplug 1 wiring connector at ?differential pressure switch? sensor in front (offside, top) of engine
30. Pull back engine wiring harness (offside) from engine and lay on body
31. Disconnect 2 hoses to oil cooler from oil thermostat
32. Disconnect 2 brake pipes from brake master cylinder and bend clear of body
33. Disconnect 1 brake pipe from pressure limiting valve and bend clear of body
34. Disconnect clutch hydraulic pipe from clutch master cylinder
35. Disconnect vacuum hose between plenum and brake servo
36. Strap/cable-tie oil filter to engine (clear of body)
37. Pull speedometer cable clear of engine
38. Unplug 4 near side fuel injector plugs (connections under plenum are awkward – home made tools were used to unhook the plug securing wire clips)
39. Unplug 2 connectors at front of nearside inlet manifold
40. Pull back near side engine wiring harness and lay on body
41. Disconnect two bolts securing body to brackets on chassis inboard of wheel arch (near coil on offside and near resistors on near side)









OFFSIDE FRONT WHEEL ARCH



1. Remove wheel

2. Mark steering column joint (close to bulkhead) and disconnect

3. Thread 2 fuel pipes out engine bay through inner wing top (note 2 grommets – 1 in upper, 1 in lower body moulding)

4. Remove/cut clips securing fuel pipes to body in wheel arch

5. Refit wheel



BODY/CHASSIS BOLT CONNECTIONS

(note some of these are under carpets or behind trim)



• 2 abt .. x .. mm @ centre bottom of boot – chassis to rear of diff

• 4 abt .. x .. mm (2 each side) @ base of “b” post steel tube (to rear of door aperture)

• 2 abt .. x .. mm (1 each side) @ outboard seat (lap) belt mounting

• 2 abt .. x .. mm (1 each side) @ inboard seat (lap) belt mounting on vertical side of transmission tunnel

• 2 abt .. x .. mm (1 each side) @ inner edge of footwells adjacent to gearbox

• 2 abt .. x .. mm (1 each side) @ front of footwells towards outer edges of floor

• 2 abt .. x .. mm (1 each side) @ under bonnet – close to wheel arches (near ign coil and resistors)

• 2 abt .. x .. mm (1 each side) @ front cross tube near radiator

[.Woody]

pwd95 said:

Go for it Woody, you know you want to ...

Feck thats for a game of soldiers!!!

I was only slightly considering it, no bloody chance of me doing all that!!!!

[pwd95]

YHM

[rev-erend]

TVRleigh_BBWR said:

I'm still going to need people to help me move it into the truck for storage.

so need to know how many people it will take to move it.

Leigh - I'm up for it .. if you need help lifting it..

[petclub]

I don't know how many you need, but the more the merrier I would have thought to prevent any flex, have a spare person to look for that last whatever that is still connected etc.

Again, good luck with it. Dave

[L33]

If it helps, for Blaine's body removal last weekend, there were about 11 of us IIRC. I wouldn't like to do it with many less. I have heard tales of lifting a body with 4 people but wouldn't like to think how difficult that would be. In my honest opinion, I'd say you need about 8 people.