rear hub nut

rear hub nut

Author
Discussion

TOPTON

Original Poster:

1,514 posts

242 months

Wednesday 7th March 2012
quotequote all
Anyone know what the rear hub nut is off on the 400se. I have replaced the bearing but the nut doesn't feel or look too clever. It is very tight trying to wind it on from the very start.

Just in case I nob things up totally, what would the drive shaft to 1st UJ be off? I know the hub is granada bearing size but the shaft is off a ????

Jonny weggie

1,607 posts

197 months

Wednesday 7th March 2012
quotequote all
If it's been the same nut on your car and not caused any problems then i would rub both threads down with emery paper then clean them in oil to get rid off any particles, try nut on shaft to see if any better [should be] unless nut has been stripped somewhere.

TOPTON

Original Poster:

1,514 posts

242 months

Wednesday 7th March 2012
quotequote all
well the nut is stripped. So now I need a new one. It seems to be a fine thread too. 38mm nyloc nut from where?? a castlated one would do if anyone knows of anything.

I've tried googling but not knowing what the drive shaft is off is the problem

barrington

1,318 posts

237 months

Wednesday 7th March 2012
quotequote all
i bought new ones from tvr car parts so i have a couple of spare ones

adam quantrill

11,570 posts

248 months

Wednesday 7th March 2012
quotequote all
Count yourself lucky it's the nut and not the stub axle thread...

TOPTON

Original Poster:

1,514 posts

242 months

Wednesday 7th March 2012
quotequote all
tvr car parts, thumbup will get onto them tomorrow.

Hope the stub axle isn't stripped Adam, I guess you mean they are hard to come buy. I could strip it out and get it re threaded for different nut at the last resort

Mr Tank

5,797 posts

281 months

Wednesday 7th March 2012
quotequote all
Tony

TVR Car parts are no longer trading, due to the owner Richard being seriously ill in Hospital, and I wish him and his family all the best!

TVR Car parts have been a supporter of wedges and BBWF and were going to do it again this year but they now no longer can! They will be missed in more ways than one!

Andy

Edited by Mr Tank on Wednesday 7th March 23:01

TOPTON

Original Poster:

1,514 posts

242 months

Wednesday 7th March 2012
quotequote all
Cheers MrT, I had forgotten you had said that the other day. Will try my local ford shop in the morning. With a lot of searching around they seem to be coming up as M22x1.5 fine metric, which are easily obtainable.

ETA supposed to have said M22x1.5 not 1.25, fixed now.

Edited by TOPTON on Thursday 8th March 00:05

Mr Tank

5,797 posts

281 months

Wednesday 7th March 2012
quotequote all
Tony

No problem.
It would be nice if you can identify the correct size and also a supply especally if you can get castlellated ones! It would solve a lot of headaces for people!

Andy

barrington

1,318 posts

237 months

Thursday 8th March 2012
quotequote all
as i said i have a couple of spares not new but good if you get stuck give me a call and i will stick one in the post

taz turbo

662 posts

256 months

Thursday 8th March 2012
quotequote all
I seem to recall when I made these, the first pair I made were M22 x ? pitch, and the thread was wrong, it turned out they were 7/8 x ? TPI.



Sorry I can't confirm, I don't know where the drawings are at the moment (long time ago).

Chris.

gizmo67

83 posts

208 months

Thursday 8th March 2012
quotequote all
The joint's are from a Jaguar but also take notice that usually one side is a right hand thread and the other is a left hand thread. I hope this is of some help.

TOPTON

Original Poster:

1,514 posts

242 months

Thursday 8th March 2012
quotequote all
After delving further into the depth of nuts, I am now getting 2 sizes mentioned, 1.5 and 1.25 fine pitch. So it seems my first typo may be correct but not 100% sure yet.

1.5 are easy to get hold of http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M22-ZINC-NYLOC-NUTS-1-5-...

1.25 is more difficult. Any guesses as to which one it will be then?

The one I need is normal right hand thread, it even has an R on all 6 corners. When I was taking it off, it was a fight all the way to the edge, so I'm thinking maybe it was the wrong pitch that someone else fitted, that's why it is stripped now. (hopefully, the shaft feels ok) It was easy to loosen with a 24v hammer gun, so I didn't need 6ft of scaffold tube.

I got an email last night from someone offering me some they don't need so have taken up that offer. At least then I know they will be the correct ones.


barrington, thank you very much for your offer but I responded to the other one first.




TVRleigh_BBWR

6,552 posts

219 months

Thursday 8th March 2012
quotequote all
TOPTON said:
After delving further into the depth of nuts, I am now getting 2 sizes mentioned, 1.5 and 1.25 fine pitch. So it seems my first typo may be correct but not 100% sure yet.

1.5 are easy to get hold of http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M22-ZINC-NYLOC-NUTS-1-5-...

1.25 is more difficult. Any guesses as to which one it will be then?

The one I need is normal right hand thread, it even has an R on all 6 corners. When I was taking it off, it was a fight all the way to the edge, so I'm thinking maybe it was the wrong pitch that someone else fitted, that's why it is stripped now. (hopefully, the shaft feels ok) It was easy to loosen with a 24v hammer gun, so I didn't need 6ft of scaffold tube.

I got an email last night from someone offering me some they don't need so have taken up that offer. At least then I know they will be the correct ones.


barrington, thank you very much for your offer but I responded to the other one first.
It's very rare to have a Left handed threaded one 99% of wedges will have a right handed one on each side, also there are metric, but I can't remember if it's 1.25 or 1.5 may have posted on one of my other threads.

I think I also have a spare one somwhere. also it's worth doing a DIY castleation I did mine with a drill and angle grinder. as they can come loose even if done to the correct torque.

Also it's worth looking at the washer, as they can become overly crushed.

djc100

490 posts

252 months

Thursday 8th March 2012
quotequote all
They are usually both RH and www.rtracing.co.uk stock them.
Make sure you torque them correctly, many Wedges have lost rear wheels / hubs usually shortly after replacing the rear nut.

adam quantrill

11,570 posts

248 months

Thursday 8th March 2012
quotequote all
gizmo67 said:
...but also take notice that usually one side is a right hand thread and the other is a left hand thread....
I think you have mixed this up with the Alfa forum!!!

barrington

1,318 posts

237 months

Thursday 8th March 2012
quotequote all
no probs i have sorted them out and put them on my bench if you have no luck

Campbell

2,500 posts

289 months

Thursday 8th March 2012
quotequote all
They should both be right hand thread and Leigh said you should do the casteation on both nuts before you put them on the car, the book states 250ftlb but the way the bearings are designed they cant be over tightened so FT is in order.

Cambelt

rev-erend

21,534 posts

290 months

Friday 9th March 2012
quotequote all
Get the scaffold pole ready and hope you have strong sockets and extension bar.

TOPTON

Original Poster:

1,514 posts

242 months

Friday 9th March 2012
quotequote all
Here's my thoughts. scratchchin

As the bearing is roller as apposed to taper it cannot be over tightened. The nut/washer touches the inner race which in turn touches the stub axle, so no extra pressure is on the balls and it's metal to metal contact. So once contact is made, eg 60ftlb any more pressure is not tightening the bearing fitment but is potentially stretching the threads on the nut or stuby shaft.

So why so efin tight!!!!!!!

The use of a new nyloc nut would be recomended once they are taken off, to make sure it holds again, but still, 230ftlb is way beyond tight.
Split pin/castleated nut would be a much better option as mention by some, but still just as tight---WHY????

I have changed many bearings in the past on lots of different cars with a similar setup and never had anything as tight as these before. 100ftlb is tight, even 150ftlb is super tight in any situation.

Wheel nuts are just as important and they are nowhere near as tight

I am going to tighten mine to recomended torque, with a split pin also, but that doesn't stop me wondering




Edited by TOPTON on Friday 9th March 12:03