MOT fail / pass
Discussion
Well another year, another MOT.
Fed up with conversations with the likes of F1 and Halfords, I decided on recommendation to take it a local independent.
6'3" stout garage helper shoehorned himself into the car, then could not get reverse, peeled himself out got the owner move move the car.
First 3 seconds I heard them say any brake lights (nope came the answer), great I thought there goes a failure.
I was right enough on that score.
I thought well perhaps I had the switch adjusted incorrectly, after a servo swap, perhaps my bad, although I remember checking them against the garage door after the servo change.
The guy doing the MOT (said garage owner) said that the pedals are tightly grouped, makes me wonder if the size 9 toetectors knocked the wire off the switch, as that was the issue.
Anyhow new set of advisory's apart from the obligatory rear wheel bearing play that has been discussed before in years past (the movement is in the UJ).
Top rubber bushes at the front beginning to wear supposedly.
He was not keen on the fact that the driveshafts have nylock nuts but the stud is short, and the same for the bulkhead steering plate.
A bit wet underneath, show me a Rover that isn't, I do know that my electric PS has sprung a leak. All this are the 6 months off the road stuff (winter).
Still it took all of 5 mins to reconnect the disconnected wire, the next day retest (well me pushing the brake pedal in the yard), resulted in a pass, that's another year I suppose.
Bit a spinout is on the cards, before summer goes with a bang
Roll on 40 years, can't come quick enough
Fed up with conversations with the likes of F1 and Halfords, I decided on recommendation to take it a local independent.
6'3" stout garage helper shoehorned himself into the car, then could not get reverse, peeled himself out got the owner move move the car.
First 3 seconds I heard them say any brake lights (nope came the answer), great I thought there goes a failure.
I was right enough on that score.
I thought well perhaps I had the switch adjusted incorrectly, after a servo swap, perhaps my bad, although I remember checking them against the garage door after the servo change.
The guy doing the MOT (said garage owner) said that the pedals are tightly grouped, makes me wonder if the size 9 toetectors knocked the wire off the switch, as that was the issue.
Anyhow new set of advisory's apart from the obligatory rear wheel bearing play that has been discussed before in years past (the movement is in the UJ).
Top rubber bushes at the front beginning to wear supposedly.
He was not keen on the fact that the driveshafts have nylock nuts but the stud is short, and the same for the bulkhead steering plate.
A bit wet underneath, show me a Rover that isn't, I do know that my electric PS has sprung a leak. All this are the 6 months off the road stuff (winter).
Still it took all of 5 mins to reconnect the disconnected wire, the next day retest (well me pushing the brake pedal in the yard), resulted in a pass, that's another year I suppose.
Bit a spinout is on the cards, before summer goes with a bang
Roll on 40 years, can't come quick enough
Stuck in a hot sweaty hotel room in Salisbury at the moment, looking forward to getting back to the grey frozen north tomorrow... in fact if I'm still awake at 0100 I may just get dressed and drive home...
That aside, good news Ray, shame they had to let Lurch loose on it first though.
Mine has exactly the same 'wheel bearing play' that isn't: my previous tester understood such things
- 'that stupid Jag setup', he used to grumble. Sadly, he died from a stroke just before last xmas so I will have to do the dance with a guy probably a quarter his age who only knows FWD cars (and nothing about taper rollers up front). If it was the wheel bearing, it would clonk forwards/backwards as well as up/down of course.
Years ago someone (on here I think?) discovered (or decided) after replacing the rear bearings a couple of times that the fabricated housing was out of round, so by the time you'd pressed the outer race in it was distorting and creating play. Maybe he was right. Usually when I have a feel around underneath (ooer missus) I can never detect any play in the UJ...
The other isue I usually find is the wet knicker elastic acting as a handbrake cable. Pre-test I get in there and wind the cable nuts up a few more threads, so the mechanicals stand a slim chance of pressing two 50p-piece sized bits of friction material against a disc that's being turned with enough force to rip said friction material off (I have had it happen). I even welded an extension on the bottom of the handbrake lever that gives me more travel per ratchet click and it's still knocking on the targa before the magic 13% or whatever it is, is reached.
I don't think it's the cable stretching, I think it's the caliper arms deforming from the stresses. As an aside, DeLorean used the same setup but it was mounted outboard. And sometimes it works
Emissions... ah, now there's a thing. It's alright for you 350i owners with your perfect fuelling (snigger) but the 390 has (or appears to have) a syphon tube linking the tanks to the exhaust ports, with a dribble going into the cylinders for motion. Every year I turn the rail pressure down, the idle speed up and keep everything crossed behind my back. Or at least I did: whether the 'new' tester will be so... what's the word... creative... with the sample pipe remains to be seen. I think the saving grace is that the fumes in an enclosed space are so bad that people are grumbling 'turn it off' in short order. So I do
That aside, good news Ray, shame they had to let Lurch loose on it first though.
Mine has exactly the same 'wheel bearing play' that isn't: my previous tester understood such things
- 'that stupid Jag setup', he used to grumble. Sadly, he died from a stroke just before last xmas so I will have to do the dance with a guy probably a quarter his age who only knows FWD cars (and nothing about taper rollers up front). If it was the wheel bearing, it would clonk forwards/backwards as well as up/down of course.Years ago someone (on here I think?) discovered (or decided) after replacing the rear bearings a couple of times that the fabricated housing was out of round, so by the time you'd pressed the outer race in it was distorting and creating play. Maybe he was right. Usually when I have a feel around underneath (ooer missus) I can never detect any play in the UJ...
The other isue I usually find is the wet knicker elastic acting as a handbrake cable. Pre-test I get in there and wind the cable nuts up a few more threads, so the mechanicals stand a slim chance of pressing two 50p-piece sized bits of friction material against a disc that's being turned with enough force to rip said friction material off (I have had it happen). I even welded an extension on the bottom of the handbrake lever that gives me more travel per ratchet click and it's still knocking on the targa before the magic 13% or whatever it is, is reached.
I don't think it's the cable stretching, I think it's the caliper arms deforming from the stresses. As an aside, DeLorean used the same setup but it was mounted outboard. And sometimes it works
Emissions... ah, now there's a thing. It's alright for you 350i owners with your perfect fuelling (snigger) but the 390 has (or appears to have) a syphon tube linking the tanks to the exhaust ports, with a dribble going into the cylinders for motion. Every year I turn the rail pressure down, the idle speed up and keep everything crossed behind my back. Or at least I did: whether the 'new' tester will be so... what's the word... creative... with the sample pipe remains to be seen. I think the saving grace is that the fumes in an enclosed space are so bad that people are grumbling 'turn it off' in short order. So I do
Ian, ditto all of your post, but my local MOT man is old school so understands the rear wheel UJ issue. I also crank the handbrake up, pre test, then slacken it back afterwards. Re emissions, my old 350i sailed through but as you say my old 390SE struggled. MOT man used to wind the tick over up, adjusted the AFM bypass screw for the test, then put everything back as was, post MOT. Very accommodating of him! Strangely my SEAC has no problems passing emissions.
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