280 running problem
Discussion
Hi all,
My car seems to have developed a fault while i've been fixing other things, I'm close to the point of MOTing it after 7 years off the road and now it will not run for more that about 7-8 mins (if its really cold!). Issue started after i moved house, i wired in the rev counter the wrong way round in the hurry to get the car out of the garage it was in
(since fixed, tho i have a slight offset of 1200 rpm 
)
Issue seems to be similar to Hallies, but mine runs fine for a number of minutes, then dies slowly over a minute or so... once its dead the car will only fire when the ignition is turned on, as soon as it goes back to the running position it dies out. If left alone until its cooled down (10-15 mins) then i can go through the whole process again.
So far I've swapped the warm up regulator, air axillary device (had spares), swapped the Relay discussed in Hallies thread... no luck with any of these. Engine revs fine up until it cuts out.
Also, separate issue: Is there a difference between the temperature sender with the red plastic and the black plastic rings? the water temp seems to go through the roof since i changed it, certain its not as hot as it thinks as there is not a load of burst water pipes occurring
Any help gratefully received, really wanna get it one the road this year for some
My car seems to have developed a fault while i've been fixing other things, I'm close to the point of MOTing it after 7 years off the road and now it will not run for more that about 7-8 mins (if its really cold!). Issue started after i moved house, i wired in the rev counter the wrong way round in the hurry to get the car out of the garage it was in
(since fixed, tho i have a slight offset of 1200 rpm )Issue seems to be similar to Hallies, but mine runs fine for a number of minutes, then dies slowly over a minute or so... once its dead the car will only fire when the ignition is turned on, as soon as it goes back to the running position it dies out. If left alone until its cooled down (10-15 mins) then i can go through the whole process again.
So far I've swapped the warm up regulator, air axillary device (had spares), swapped the Relay discussed in Hallies thread... no luck with any of these. Engine revs fine up until it cuts out.
Also, separate issue: Is there a difference between the temperature sender with the red plastic and the black plastic rings? the water temp seems to go through the roof since i changed it, certain its not as hot as it thinks as there is not a load of burst water pipes occurring
Any help gratefully received, really wanna get it one the road this year for some
Thanks for the replies guys, especially Mr. Zig 
On the gauges front I have VDO ('85 car so series 2ish). I think i'll swap the two senders that i have over before i start doing any thing else, can't hurt
Fuel - late '11 vintage, should still be okay. I have some additives so may try and put some more in if i can find the petrol cans (overhead storage in the garage was a good idea until you can't get the car out!)
Fuel filter - one now ordered. The one on there looks 'new' but may as well change it.
Today's plan of action:
1 - general earth checking
2 - check accumulator
3 - check fuel pumps actions
4 - check coil temp (how hot is unusually hot?)
5 - change sender unit
If i get chance i might check the wiring behind the dash, i have a spare Rev gauge which i could fit at the same time (should be calibrated).
cheers,
Rich
On the gauges front I have VDO ('85 car so series 2ish). I think i'll swap the two senders that i have over before i start doing any thing else, can't hurt
Fuel - late '11 vintage, should still be okay. I have some additives so may try and put some more in if i can find the petrol cans (overhead storage in the garage was a good idea until you can't get the car out!)
Fuel filter - one now ordered. The one on there looks 'new' but may as well change it.
Today's plan of action:
1 - general earth checking
2 - check accumulator
3 - check fuel pumps actions
4 - check coil temp (how hot is unusually hot?)
5 - change sender unit
If i get chance i might check the wiring behind the dash, i have a spare Rev gauge which i could fit at the same time (should be calibrated).
cheers,
Rich
Temp sender changed, will fire it up and check the coil condition shortly.
Have noticed a petrol smell in engine bay, tho since I fixed the idle speed that has mostly gone. Not noticed it by the pump.
Generally when the engine is running It's good, no missfire or juddering until it dies out.
Aad seems to work as you can see the vacum change over time. I'll test the spare in the oven when the missues goes away this week
P.s. there's snow on the way, just had an hour of it here
Have noticed a petrol smell in engine bay, tho since I fixed the idle speed that has mostly gone. Not noticed it by the pump.
Generally when the engine is running It's good, no missfire or juddering until it dies out.
Aad seems to work as you can see the vacum change over time. I'll test the spare in the oven when the missues goes away this week
P.s. there's snow on the way, just had an hour of it here
Update on testing yesterday:
Cranked from cold it does take a couple of goes or the right boot to get it going. For a car of this vintage i assumed that is normal, it takes less if i have been running it daily (i.e. when its not -1 outside and the sun is still out when i get home from work. The coil does not get hot, infact it seems to be quite cold. Spark is blue but is not the bluse'ist i've seen. Nothing seems to change behaviour in the pump/accumulator area, however i have not been able this 'green plug' on the metering head so no test of the pump (i have 4 plugs in that area, none are green and having tried each non gives the desired effect!). I can however state confidently that the pump is still trying as the car dies, you can here it as the engine cuts out briefly.
I'll check the wiring behind the dash
hate taking that off, always have to pay a toll in hand skin
Cheers Zig.
Rich
Cranked from cold it does take a couple of goes or the right boot to get it going. For a car of this vintage i assumed that is normal, it takes less if i have been running it daily (i.e. when its not -1 outside and the sun is still out when i get home from work
. The coil does not get hot, infact it seems to be quite cold. Spark is blue but is not the bluse'ist i've seen. Nothing seems to change behaviour in the pump/accumulator area, however i have not been able this 'green plug' on the metering head so no test of the pump (i have 4 plugs in that area, none are green and having tried each non gives the desired effect!). I can however state confidently that the pump is still trying as the car dies, you can here it as the engine cuts out briefly.I'll check the wiring behind the dash
hate taking that off, always have to pay a toll in hand skin Cheers Zig.
Rich
Hi Zig,
lovin the tidy clean look of your engine bay, thats a target to work towards i think
i see your green plug, don't see mine shall have another look tomorrow when hopefully i will not get back from work at a stupid time! its like they don't know i want to be in the garage fixing the car
i'll also have a think about what i have that can be used as a make shift clamp, i have a number of destructive options but should leave them alone for the moment
cheers,
Rich
lovin the tidy clean look of your engine bay, thats a target to work towards i think
i see your green plug, don't see mine
shall have another look tomorrow when hopefully i will not get back from work at a stupid time! its like they don't know i want to be in the garage fixing the car i'll also have a think about what i have that can be used as a make shift clamp, i have a number of destructive options but should leave them alone for the moment
cheers,
Rich
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