Flywheel removal
Discussion
I'm in the middle of a clutch repalcment on my Sp6 and think I need to send my flywheel off for a refurb while everything is apart. Except for the obvious 6 (or is it 7?) bolts holding the flywheel on, is there anythign else I need to be aware of? Do I need to drain the engine oil or is everything still sealed behind the flywheel and removing it won't 'release' the oil as such?
Any tips / tricks to removing the flywheel and what torque should the bolts be re-done up to upon replacement?
Thanks!
Any tips / tricks to removing the flywheel and what torque should the bolts be re-done up to upon replacement?
Thanks!
Anyone know (and willing to share) the torque value for the flywheel bolts?
As to 'taking limbs off', if the flywheel is able to escape the 7 bolts, take the clutch pack with it, exit through the bell housing and take out the tubular steel chassis, then yes, limbs might be at risk, but I doubt it
As to 'taking limbs off', if the flywheel is able to escape the 7 bolts, take the clutch pack with it, exit through the bell housing and take out the tubular steel chassis, then yes, limbs might be at risk, but I doubt it
For the Cerbera there's a wiki for torque settings
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
Byker28i said:
For the Cerbera there's a wiki for torque settings
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
Thanks - useful, much obliged!https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
PeteS2k said:
The Sagaris manual is available in the member's area of the TVRCC web-site.
I was a member of the TVR Card Club but gave that up many years ago... I do have an original copy of the Sagaris manual (from Graham) but I didn't see it in there - indeed scant info on flywheel removal or clutch removal - eg remove the 4 bolts... that's it (sort of thing)!S6PNJ said:
Cheers! and dammit, I didn't think to look for a torque setting chapter (or just didn't spot it), just thought it would be under the clutch chapter. There is also the bell housing and gearbox torque values there so that saves me another question / search.
I was looking for it yesterday and thought the same!Thanks for the file, but I can't open it - could you try re-saving it in a different format or try resending it please? It's the 3mf one I can;t open - my (personal edition) of Fusion won't open it and my slicer (Cura) says it's empty or doesn't contain any models (despite being around 300Kb in size).
Next part after flywheel removal comes ------ putting it all back together - and I think I've done something incorrectly.
Car won't start, get a couple of 'misfires' and the odd sneeze etc from the throttle bodies - something is definitely amiss!!
It didn't particularly dawn on me when refitting the flywheel, but I'm suspecting that I have (rotationally) incorrectly fitted it, hence probably a timing issue. The question is, how do I know which one of seemingly 8 positions (8 bolt holes all (from memory and photos) seemingly equally spaced) should the locating lug sit into? There is clearly a 'missing tooth' on the engine side of the flywheel which is for the hall effect sensor on the top of the engine where the flywheel sits.
Should the 'missing tooth' (timing mark) on the flywheel be nearest the locating lug by any chance? There's nothing I can see in Graham's bible and searching on here doesn't turn anything up. I've tried calling Jason / Chas at Str8Six (as they have previously serviced my car on several occasions) to ask for some technical help, but no one seems to answering the phone this afternoon.
I'm starting to think I'm going to have to strip everything down again, re-bleed, re-fill etc etc grrr....
One other linked question - there is a connection to the hall effect sensor - I know this has been refitted, but there is also a nearby plug that I don't particularly recollect removing - it says cam sensor on it - is this a redundant plug or have I inadvertently disconnected it and not remembered / realised? If so, where is the other end of it, ie where should it be plugged into?
Car won't start, get a couple of 'misfires' and the odd sneeze etc from the throttle bodies - something is definitely amiss!!
It didn't particularly dawn on me when refitting the flywheel, but I'm suspecting that I have (rotationally) incorrectly fitted it, hence probably a timing issue. The question is, how do I know which one of seemingly 8 positions (8 bolt holes all (from memory and photos) seemingly equally spaced) should the locating lug sit into? There is clearly a 'missing tooth' on the engine side of the flywheel which is for the hall effect sensor on the top of the engine where the flywheel sits.
Should the 'missing tooth' (timing mark) on the flywheel be nearest the locating lug by any chance? There's nothing I can see in Graham's bible and searching on here doesn't turn anything up. I've tried calling Jason / Chas at Str8Six (as they have previously serviced my car on several occasions) to ask for some technical help, but no one seems to answering the phone this afternoon.
I'm starting to think I'm going to have to strip everything down again, re-bleed, re-fill etc etc grrr....
One other linked question - there is a connection to the hall effect sensor - I know this has been refitted, but there is also a nearby plug that I don't particularly recollect removing - it says cam sensor on it - is this a redundant plug or have I inadvertently disconnected it and not remembered / realised? If so, where is the other end of it, ie where should it be plugged into?
The flywheel will only fit on in 1 orientation unless you've somehow managed to jam it on at a wonky angle, highly unlikely! There's all sorts of extra plugs on the S6 wiring loom that aren't used.
The 2 holes top right have a different spacing to the rest & the hole at around 2 o'clock is a slightly different diameter.
The 2 holes top right have a different spacing to the rest & the hole at around 2 o'clock is a slightly different diameter.
Edited by CerbWill on Wednesday 30th July 18:35
Cheers!
All 7 bolts went in, ie the holes must have been aligned, but that must have been pretty much good luck for me to align it without even thinking about it. Doesn't necessarily explain why it now won't start, when it was fine before the clutch/flywheel removal. What else can I check?
I've added a longer post here with more info in it if you fancy a read? https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
All 7 bolts went in, ie the holes must have been aligned, but that must have been pretty much good luck for me to align it without even thinking about it. Doesn't necessarily explain why it now won't start, when it was fine before the clutch/flywheel removal. What else can I check?
I've added a longer post here with more info in it if you fancy a read? https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
Worth getting to software out to see if its getting an RPM signal during cranking. Beyond that it's a lucky dip really. If it's cranking then you've obviously reconnected the starter motor wiring. I wonder if you've knocked a HT lead or the coil pack connector as its right next to the starter motor.
Other than that, if you've got it in a ramp/axle stands just double check it's not in gear with the handbrake on. Not that I've ever done anything that stupid. Obviously.
Other than that, if you've got it in a ramp/axle stands just double check it's not in gear with the handbrake on. Not that I've ever done anything that stupid. Obviously.
Edited by CerbWill on Wednesday 30th July 19:11
CerbWill said:
Worth getting to software out to see if its getting an RPM signal during cranking. Beyond that it's a lucky dip really. If it's cranking then you've obviously reconnected the starter motor wiring. I wonder if you've knocked a HT lead or the coil pack connector as its right next to the starter motor.
Thanks! I have the software / cable etc so hook it up and look for... RPM signal how .... with the 'TVR software' or the alternative (can't remember the name of it - is it EvoOli's?) ?The HT leads have not been disconnected, the 'LT' plug was removed and was 100% back on (as was the Hall effect sensor plug to the flywheel - both of which I've subsequently removed and reattached to try and eliminate.
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