Winter tyres vol 2
Discussion
Pica-Pica said:
The article also says
‘ The other model deemed safe when approaching the legal tread depth limit was the Vector 4Seasons Gen-2’
ddles. From new to around 4mm they were absolutely planted. Although I suppose they were still safe. Just not as safe as when at 4mm or more.‘ The other model deemed safe when approaching the legal tread depth limit was the Vector 4Seasons Gen-2’
Interesting. I have been on the gen 2s for a fw years on two cars. I changed mine at around 3mm because I had noticed the front wheels starting to skip going through puddles. I hate feeling a front tyre losing grip through the steering wheel.
I change at 3mm. Firstly because it's recommended for all seasons. Secondly if a tyre cost £150 and I run it from 7mm to 3mm rather than to 2mm I'm losing around 20% life. Or £30. Why do thousands of miles on a tyre with noticeably worse performance to save £30 a tyre?
irc said:
I change at 3mm. Firstly because it's recommended for all seasons. Secondly if a tyre cost £150 and I run it from 7mm to 3mm rather than to 2mm I'm losing around 20% life. Or £30. Why do thousands of miles on a tyre with noticeably worse performance to save £30 a tyre?
Where's the like button?Pica-Pica said:
Smint said:
MustangGT said:
Most tyres are around 7.5 to 7.7mm tread depth new (according to Camskill).
Indeed, thats why my shortlist is now Goodyear Uniroyal and without looking them up again a couple of others possiby Vred Quatracs but don't quote me on the vreds.Smint said:
MustangGT said:
I am not fond of the Michelin CC tyres because they appear to have around 1mm less tread from new (6.6mm vs 7.6mm) If changing at 3mm this is a lot less tyre life.
I'm not buying any tyre with less than 8mm, even if the Mich's last longer if you run them right down to legal min for many thousands of miles you will have at least 1mm less tread depth to clear water, many car owners sensibly don't want to run to legal min.I change tyres at 3mm too, a well worn set is much more likely to see the car visiting the scenery if one encounters standing water.
5s Alive said:
Smint said:
MustangGT said:
I am not fond of the Michelin CC tyres because they appear to have around 1mm less tread from new (6.6mm vs 7.6mm) If changing at 3mm this is a lot less tyre life.
I'm not buying any tyre with less than 8mm, even if the Mich's last longer if you run them right down to legal min for many thousands of miles you will have at least 1mm less tread depth to clear water, many car owners sensibly don't want to run to legal min.I change tyres at 3mm too, a well worn set is much more likely to see the car visiting the scenery if one encounters standing water.
Just put winters on my 2008 Forester, the Conties TS850 from 3418, so 5 years old. Plenty of thread, but my ABS was working overtime on damp roads, contrary to behaviour on summer Bridgestones T005 from 0122, so less than 2 years old. I just hope winters will get better when I do some miles again.
What is your experience when putting back older tyres after the summer? Will it get better and when?
What is your experience when putting back older tyres after the summer? Will it get better and when?
ST565NP said:
Just put winters on my 2008 Forester, the Conties TS850 from 3418, so 5 years old. Plenty of thread, but my ABS was working overtime on damp roads, contrary to behaviour on summer Bridgestones T005 from 0122, so less than 2 years old. I just hope winters will get better when I do some miles again.
What is your experience when putting back older tyres after the summer? Will it get better and when?
It's warm and wet so might not be the best conditions for winters. Having said that I can't remember when my ABS last triggered. Are you driving like Colin McRae?! What is your experience when putting back older tyres after the summer? Will it get better and when?
ST565NP said:
Just put winters on my 2008 Forester, the Conties TS850 from 3418, so 5 years old. Plenty of thread, but my ABS was working overtime on damp roads, contrary to behaviour on summer Bridgestones T005 from 0122, so less than 2 years old. I just hope winters will get better when I do some miles again.
What is your experience when putting back older tyres after the summer? Will it get better and when?
I've found full winters can be skittish on warm damp roads, this was especially noticeable with Nokians, Vredestein Wintrac Extreme had the best wet grip on warm winter days and proved unstoppable in the snow, i'd have said they behaved more like a high quality all season than a full winter, tread pattern was very similar to the current flavours of the month Mich/Goodyear all seasons but back in 2007.What is your experience when putting back older tyres after the summer? Will it get better and when?
As for older winter rubber, on our Forester the set of Cooper winters must be on their 7th possibly 8th or 9th seasonal outing, they're nothing special but they show no signs of deterioration (kept in the cool and dark when not in use) and still have 7mm tread so might as well get some use from them, excellent when its really cold but like yours on those warm winter days show the weakness of winter tyres in the damp, especially skittish when councils oversalt the roads for no earthly reason and the warm damp air turns the salt into a slippery mush, they don't seem to have got any worse with age.
The only reason i'm running two sets is because we already had the winter tyres/wheels from the previous Outback (same 16" size allowable alternative on the Foz doorplate), i wouldn't buy full winters again but instead get winter stamped all seasons which continue to prove themselves in all weathers on our Prado (Yokos) and mutiple sets of earlier versions of Vred Quatracs kept daughters out of the scenery in their less experienced younger driving days.
I won't be putting the current winter set on our Forester until maybe the end of November, and unless the average temps drop to 4' or so possibly middle December.
Smint said:
ST565NP said:
Just put winters on my 2008 Forester, the Conties TS850 from 3418, so 5 years old. Plenty of thread, but my ABS was working overtime on damp roads, contrary to behaviour on summer Bridgestones T005 from 0122, so less than 2 years old. I just hope winters will get better when I do some miles again.
What is your experience when putting back older tyres after the summer? Will it get better and when?
I've found full winters can be skittish on warm damp roads, this was especially noticeable with Nokians, Vredestein Wintrac Extreme had the best wet grip on warm winter days and proved unstoppable in the snow, i'd have said they behaved more like a high quality all season than a full winter, tread pattern was very similar to the current flavours of the month Mich/Goodyear all seasons but back in 2007.What is your experience when putting back older tyres after the summer? Will it get better and when?
As for older winter rubber, on our Forester the set of Cooper winters must be on their 7th possibly 8th or 9th seasonal outing, they're nothing special but they show no signs of deterioration (kept in the cool and dark when not in use) and still have 7mm tread so might as well get some use from them, excellent when its really cold but like yours on those warm winter days show the weakness of winter tyres in the damp, especially skittish when councils oversalt the roads for no earthly reason and the warm damp air turns the salt into a slippery mush, they don't seem to have got any worse with age.
The only reason i'm running two sets is because we already had the winter tyres/wheels from the previous Outback (same 16" size allowable alternative on the Foz doorplate), i wouldn't buy full winters again but instead get winter stamped all seasons which continue to prove themselves in all weathers on our Prado (Yokos) and mutiple sets of earlier versions of Vred Quatracs kept daughters out of the scenery in their less experienced younger driving days.
I won't be putting the current winter set on our Forester until maybe the end of November, and unless the average temps drop to 4' or so possibly middle December.
Can't really comment on aging rubber as due to the miles done by the time the tyres were approaching 5 years old the tread depth was such that performance in snow wasn't going to be acceptable over the entire winter. So was it aging rubber or tread depth or a combination? First showed up that they still worked OK in decent snow, but terrible in slush.
Certainly you notice a difference in the days following a swap, which I experienced both ways. Having changed back from winters an unexpected cold but slightly moist snap in spring showed up the poor cold performance of the summers. To be fair I was getting a bit of a wiggle on at the time.
These days needs are different, Nokians both winter and All Weathers have been dropped after being a regular customer, now on Goodyear Vector 4 seasons. No complaints.
ST565NP said:
Just put winters on my 2008 Forester, the Conties TS850 from 3418, so 5 years old. Plenty of thread, but my ABS was working overtime on damp roads, contrary to behaviour on summer Bridgestones T005 from 0122, so less than 2 years old. I just hope winters will get better when I do some miles again.
What is your experience when putting back older tyres after the summer? Will it get better and when?
IME winters are at their worst on warm (ish) wet roads, at least the ones I have used have been.What is your experience when putting back older tyres after the summer? Will it get better and when?
Bonefish Blues said:
5s Alive said:
Smint said:
MustangGT said:
I am not fond of the Michelin CC tyres because they appear to have around 1mm less tread from new (6.6mm vs 7.6mm) If changing at 3mm this is a lot less tyre life.
I'm not buying any tyre with less than 8mm, even if the Mich's last longer if you run them right down to legal min for many thousands of miles you will have at least 1mm less tread depth to clear water, many car owners sensibly don't want to run to legal min.I change tyres at 3mm too, a well worn set is much more likely to see the car visiting the scenery if one encounters standing water.
I think (don't quote me) that when Jon tested the CC2 at under 3mm tread depth it wasn't losing much in the way of wet performance and credited this to full tread depth construction.
Some users have reported otherwise so I could be talking b
ks. 
RicksAlfas said:
Unfortunately (not saying that is the issue here) hire car companies are the worst in the world for fitting the cheapest of the cheap when they replace tyres, although I'll bet they charge the customer for the most expensive that they can.bolidemichael said:
First long motorway drive with the Conti AllSeasonContact2 and I found them to be comfortable, quiet and offered good grip in dry, damp and wet conditions at 10°C temps
I drove back the 400+ miles in mainly dry and bright conditions on Saturday and they were excellent. E-bmw said:
RicksAlfas said:
Unfortunately (not saying that is the issue here) hire car companies are the worst in the world for fitting the cheapest of the cheap when they replace tyres, although I'll bet they charge the customer for the most expensive that they can.blueST said:
I’ll second that. I get a lot of hire cars and they invariably have a selection of the worst of the worst. It’s so bad these days I actually think I’m doing ok if it’s something like a Devanti or a Triangle fitted which at least I’ve heard of. Tyre pressures are invariably all over the place too.
Shows how times have changed, i transported hundreds of truckloads of rentals over many years for the big rental outfits, that side of my work finishing around 2000, back then almost all renters were defleeted with less than 12k on the clock 18k was rare to find, so only the fastest versions heavy on drive axle tyre wear were on anything other than the original set.FiF said:
popeyewhite said:
FiF said:
I'll not rise to the issue of the selective quote.
You're missing the point, deliberately possibly, about individual needs, circumstances etc. It's why this thread is so polarised, one side says THIS is what works for me, so that should be the default position, t'other side says, no THAT is what works for me, etc etc. Rinse and repeat.
Rolling reminder, what works for one, may not be the best solution for their neighbour.
This is your confliction, as I see it: "solution" implies a problem that needs solving. That isn't the case with snowfall south of Brum, you yourself said so ("extreme event"). Doesn't mean you don't need winters for cold temps, as I said above.You're missing the point, deliberately possibly, about individual needs, circumstances etc. It's why this thread is so polarised, one side says THIS is what works for me, so that should be the default position, t'other side says, no THAT is what works for me, etc etc. Rinse and repeat.
Rolling reminder, what works for one, may not be the best solution for their neighbour.
Driving across Clent Hills in not a lot of snow to get into Halesowen area when the hill up from Hagley is blocked by traffic all sticking to main road, not an infrequent event. Sounds like a problem that needs solving to me, maybe not you.
Plus the fact Halesowen is surrounded by steep hills.
Were you around back in 2004 was it when all the roads were just ice and they shut Mucklow hill ?
Smint said:
blueST said:
I’ll second that. I get a lot of hire cars and they invariably have a selection of the worst of the worst. It’s so bad these days I actually think I’m doing ok if it’s something like a Devanti or a Triangle fitted which at least I’ve heard of. Tyre pressures are invariably all over the place too.
Shows how times have changed, i transported hundreds of truckloads of rentals over many years for the big rental outfits, that side of my work finishing around 2000, back then almost all renters were defleeted with less than 12k on the clock 18k was rare to find, so only the fastest versions heavy on drive axle tyre wear were on anything other than the original set.Gassing Station | Suspension, Brakes & Tyres | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff