Your experiences of undersealing; waxoyl, lanoguard etc
Discussion
Following the Car Focused YT video on using lanoguard it got me thinking about my two 80’s & 90’s cars that I’ve had for years.
I tend to take them off the road in the winter, but I’ve thought about treating the undersides of them, has anyone got experience of doing this and got hints, tips and advice on what does & doesn’t work, best tools to use (he used ramps which would seem a better bet than my usual trolley jack/stands) etc.
It would be especially interesting to hear from anyone who’s used multiple ones and what they feel did & didn’t work. I’ve avoided waxoyl as I got the impression it can be very thick and gloopy, but the lanoguard spray part at least didn’t seem too bad.
Cheers in advance
I tend to take them off the road in the winter, but I’ve thought about treating the undersides of them, has anyone got experience of doing this and got hints, tips and advice on what does & doesn’t work, best tools to use (he used ramps which would seem a better bet than my usual trolley jack/stands) etc.
It would be especially interesting to hear from anyone who’s used multiple ones and what they feel did & didn’t work. I’ve avoided waxoyl as I got the impression it can be very thick and gloopy, but the lanoguard spray part at least didn’t seem too bad.
Cheers in advance
Ramps are certainly easier, but you'd need jack stands if you're planning to take the wheels off to do the wheel wells.
I also used the Bilt Hamber stuff. Dynax UB for the underside and Dynax S50 for any cavities. Both were very easy to apply, with the UB spray can coming with a straw, and the S50 can coming with a 2 foot lance with a 360 degree spray head.
Depending on how thorough you are, it's not always possible to get into all nooks and crannies, so I finished off by liberally spraying everywhere underneath with ACF 50. Apart from helping to cover any missed bits, it also seeps into any cracks and crevices, as well as additionally lubricating the suspension components.
Only tips I can add is to cover the brakes with a plastic bag if you're going anywhere them, and put something like a plastic sheet or cardboard underneath, as things can drip for a day or so. Goggles and a mask are also good while you're spraying around underneath.
I also used the Bilt Hamber stuff. Dynax UB for the underside and Dynax S50 for any cavities. Both were very easy to apply, with the UB spray can coming with a straw, and the S50 can coming with a 2 foot lance with a 360 degree spray head.
Depending on how thorough you are, it's not always possible to get into all nooks and crannies, so I finished off by liberally spraying everywhere underneath with ACF 50. Apart from helping to cover any missed bits, it also seeps into any cracks and crevices, as well as additionally lubricating the suspension components.
Only tips I can add is to cover the brakes with a plastic bag if you're going anywhere them, and put something like a plastic sheet or cardboard underneath, as things can drip for a day or so. Goggles and a mask are also good while you're spraying around underneath.
I used to use waxoyl on my daily runner classic cars when I was younger, it definitely helped keep the worst of the winter mud, salt etc from corroding things.
I was advised to make sure that you get any corrosion sorted before you start applying though, as sealing the rot in under sealant can really accelerate it getting a hold too.
I was advised to make sure that you get any corrosion sorted before you start applying though, as sealing the rot in under sealant can really accelerate it getting a hold too.
You can do it with aerosol cans, but it's a lot faster (and materials cheaper) if you have access to a compressor and use a gun like this, https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/224618194237 which accepts 1 litre cans of your preferred goop
Top Tip - Soak the cans in a bucket of hot water for a while before using.
Top Tip - Soak the cans in a bucket of hot water for a while before using.
QJumper said:
Ramps are certainly easier, but you'd need jack stands if you're planning to take the wheels off to do the wheel wells.
I also used the Bilt Hamber stuff. Dynax UB for the underside and Dynax S50 for any cavities. Both were very easy to apply, with the UB spray can coming with a straw, and the S50 can coming with a 2 foot lance with a 360 degree spray head.
Depending on how thorough you are, it's not always possible to get into all nooks and crannies, so I finished off by liberally spraying everywhere underneath with ACF 50. Apart from helping to cover any missed bits, it also seeps into any cracks and crevices, as well as additionally lubricating the suspension components.
Only tips I can add is to cover the brakes with a plastic bag if you're going anywhere them, and put something like a plastic sheet or cardboard underneath, as things can drip for a day or so. Goggles and a mask are also good while you're spraying around underneath.
Thanks for your reply. I actually did the wheel wells on one of them years ago, scrubbing off 15+ years of road grime was quite something, utter madness really! But point taken re stands if taking the wheels off, only issue is having a gravel drive makes using them a bit dodgy. I also used the Bilt Hamber stuff. Dynax UB for the underside and Dynax S50 for any cavities. Both were very easy to apply, with the UB spray can coming with a straw, and the S50 can coming with a 2 foot lance with a 360 degree spray head.
Depending on how thorough you are, it's not always possible to get into all nooks and crannies, so I finished off by liberally spraying everywhere underneath with ACF 50. Apart from helping to cover any missed bits, it also seeps into any cracks and crevices, as well as additionally lubricating the suspension components.
Only tips I can add is to cover the brakes with a plastic bag if you're going anywhere them, and put something like a plastic sheet or cardboard underneath, as things can drip for a day or so. Goggles and a mask are also good while you're spraying around underneath.
Thanks re the specific products I don’t know anything about them so shall have a read up.
Re ACF50 does yours come out easily in spray form? I ask as every winter when I’m doing jobs on them
I spray a little after Harry Metcalfe mentioned it years ago & it seems very runny & creates a right old mess, maybe my can is knackered!
Tc24 said:
I've been impressed so far with the Bilt Hamber Dynax UB I applied.
Sprays on, forms a soft to the touch waxy film once dry. Nowhere near as oily as Waxoyl.
Thanks for your reply, it’s reminded me I used Dynax of some description when we did some work on the rear chassis legs years ago. Sprays on, forms a soft to the touch waxy film once dry. Nowhere near as oily as Waxoyl.
My only reservation being it seemed quite difficult to accurately apply as oppose to the spray of the lanoguard, but as it’s not as thick seemingly that might not be as effective?
bilt Hamber products, as recommended by a BM here are excellent. Hydrate 80 for the bits that might get rusty, Dynax for the rest of the car. They're not cheap but I really think with rust prevention you get what you pay for, especially as it is such an important part of caring for a classic or older or even new vehicle.
My Lancer turbo has full bilt hamber on the chassis and underbody, still as good as the day it went on, and my Impreza the same. I intend to hit the Impreza with a liberal dose of lanoguard once the subframe has been replaced and suspension renewed.
Bilt Hamber all day long for me, and even if it is renewed every 3 years as part of a service plan, it is still cheap.
My Lancer turbo has full bilt hamber on the chassis and underbody, still as good as the day it went on, and my Impreza the same. I intend to hit the Impreza with a liberal dose of lanoguard once the subframe has been replaced and suspension renewed.
Bilt Hamber all day long for me, and even if it is renewed every 3 years as part of a service plan, it is still cheap.
It’s all about preparation.
For a proper job your looking at close to 4-5 days.
Strip ALL old underseal to bear metal.
Zinga primer, roll on.
Corrales glass reinforced paint,
Buzzweld war paint,
Bilt hamber dynax S-50 cavity protection, plug up all drain holes and saturate over night.
All this is pointless if there is any rust already that is not treated / cut out.
Contact Anand viad on Facebook. He is tho only one I know to do a proper job.
For a proper job your looking at close to 4-5 days.
Strip ALL old underseal to bear metal.
Zinga primer, roll on.
Corrales glass reinforced paint,
Buzzweld war paint,
Bilt hamber dynax S-50 cavity protection, plug up all drain holes and saturate over night.
All this is pointless if there is any rust already that is not treated / cut out.
Contact Anand viad on Facebook. He is tho only one I know to do a proper job.
texaxile said:
bilt Hamber products, as recommended by a BM here are excellent. Hydrate 80 for the bits that might get rusty, Dynax for the rest of the car. They're not cheap but I really think with rust prevention you get what you pay for, especially as it is such an important part of caring for a classic or older or even new vehicle.
My Lancer turbo has full bilt hamber on the chassis and underbody, still as good as the day it went on, and my Impreza the same. I intend to hit the Impreza with a liberal dose of lanoguard once the subframe has been replaced and suspension renewed.
Bilt Hamber all day long for me, and even if it is renewed every 3 years as part of a service plan, it is still cheap.
100% this, great products. I like the UC clear on all the underside that's visible as you can keep an eye on it all.My Lancer turbo has full bilt hamber on the chassis and underbody, still as good as the day it went on, and my Impreza the same. I intend to hit the Impreza with a liberal dose of lanoguard once the subframe has been replaced and suspension renewed.
Bilt Hamber all day long for me, and even if it is renewed every 3 years as part of a service plan, it is still cheap.
Disposable overalls, mask , beanie etc a must as it gets all over you, and hire some ramps for an afternoon to get it applied.
Sebring440 said:
seabod91 said:
Contact Anand viad on Facebook. He is tho only one I know to do a proper job.
There are hundreds of "Anand Viad"s on Facebook. Which one is it?https://www.facebook.com/ruztynutz
acme said:
Thanks for your reply. I actually did the wheel wells on one of them years ago, scrubbing off 15+ years of road grime was quite something, utter madness really! But point taken re stands if taking the wheels off, only issue is having a gravel drive makes using them a bit dodgy.
Thanks re the specific products I don’t know anything about them so shall have a read up.
Re ACF50 does yours come out easily in spray form? I ask as every winter when I’m doing jobs on them
I spray a little after Harry Metcalfe mentioned it years ago & it seems very runny & creates a right old mess, maybe my can is knackered!
Best thing I found for cleaning the caked on mud in wheel wells was those circular plastic brushes that you fix to a drill.Thanks re the specific products I don’t know anything about them so shall have a read up.
Re ACF50 does yours come out easily in spray form? I ask as every winter when I’m doing jobs on them
I spray a little after Harry Metcalfe mentioned it years ago & it seems very runny & creates a right old mess, maybe my can is knackered!
As for the ACF 50, I don't buy the aerosol and get the 1 litre bottle instead, and spray it on with a garden pump sprayer. The one I use is a 2 ltr bottle that has an extension hose and lance, which makes it easy to get at hard to reach places. Depending on the car, you might even be able to reach enough to spray it without ramps. The nozzzle gives quite a fine spray, which is what you need to minimise the mess, but it's still a bit messy and will drip for a few hours, depending on how heavily you apply it. This is a link to the sprayer I use:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08N58758Y/?coliid=I3I...
So with my old Supra, after dropping all the subframe, petrol tank, etc, I waxoyl’d the underneath, but not liking the oily finish, I just covered it with Halfords matt black spray paint to give it a nicer and dry to the touch finish. It didn’t react and held up well.
Before:
After Waxoyl:
After Matt black on top:
Certainly helped it look a lot more OEM without the ‘oily’ finish when back together:
Before:
After Waxoyl:
After Matt black on top:
Certainly helped it look a lot more OEM without the ‘oily’ finish when back together:
Marc p said:
So with my old Supra, after dropping all the subframe, petrol tank, etc, I waxoyl’d the underneath, but not liking the oily finish, I just covered it with Halfords matt black spray paint to give it a nicer and dry to the touch finish. It didn’t react and held up well.
Before:
After Waxoyl:
After Matt black on top:
Certainly helped it look a lot more OEM without the ‘oily’ finish when back together:
Hi Marc. Looks a quality job.Before:
After Waxoyl:
After Matt black on top:
Certainly helped it look a lot more OEM without the ‘oily’ finish when back together:
nessiemac said:
Sebring440 said:
seabod91 said:
Contact Anand viad on Facebook. He is tho only one I know to do a proper job.
There are hundreds of "Anand Viad"s on Facebook. Which one is it?https://www.facebook.com/ruztynutz
Acme, you asked for top-tips? Well, here’s mine.
Get someone else to do it. Seriously.
It’s a crappy, dirty job. One which after you’ve bought all the necessary materials and spent 3-4 days doing it, it’s probably going to be cheaper.
There’s a company near me that specialises in rust-proofing the chassis of trucks and busses. They steam clean the underside before spraying waxoil / dinitrol etc underneath. I did enquire a few years ago and was quoted around £400.
If I were to go down this route, (and I probably will with my new van), I’d leave the job until spring. Get the underbody professionally steam cleaned, then grind, Karust, zinc-rich primer and Hammorite the underside before sending it back to the waxoiling company for them to spray on the waxy-type stuff.
Get someone else to do it. Seriously.
It’s a crappy, dirty job. One which after you’ve bought all the necessary materials and spent 3-4 days doing it, it’s probably going to be cheaper.
There’s a company near me that specialises in rust-proofing the chassis of trucks and busses. They steam clean the underside before spraying waxoil / dinitrol etc underneath. I did enquire a few years ago and was quoted around £400.
If I were to go down this route, (and I probably will with my new van), I’d leave the job until spring. Get the underbody professionally steam cleaned, then grind, Karust, zinc-rich primer and Hammorite the underside before sending it back to the waxoiling company for them to spray on the waxy-type stuff.
Fair advice tbh. My alfa was almost spotlessly clean and rust free so it only took a day on hired ramps. Handheld wire brush for surface rust on suspension arms etc, and panel wipes to remove grease. I used Pors p90 on a brush to paint arms, dynax into the box sections, and then UC clear over pretty much everything else. 4yrs later it was still as new. Very messy and sticky plus time consuming as a job.
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