Your experiences of undersealing; waxoyl, lanoguard etc
Discussion
seabod91 said:
It’s all about preparation.
For a proper job your looking at close to 4-5 days.
Strip ALL old underseal to bear metal.
Zinga primer, roll on.
Corrales glass reinforced paint,
Buzzweld war paint,
Bilt hamber dynax S-50 cavity protection, plug up all drain holes and saturate over night.
All this is pointless if there is any rust already that is not treated / cut out.
Contact Anand viad on Facebook. He is tho only one I know to do a proper job.
So that's an drivetrain, suspension and fuel tank out job then to do it properly, even then you miss lots of areas not accessible with a grinder. Best completely strip it to a bare shell and have it dipped, prepped and re-painted then... For a proper job your looking at close to 4-5 days.
Strip ALL old underseal to bear metal.
Zinga primer, roll on.
Corrales glass reinforced paint,
Buzzweld war paint,
Bilt hamber dynax S-50 cavity protection, plug up all drain holes and saturate over night.
All this is pointless if there is any rust already that is not treated / cut out.
Contact Anand viad on Facebook. He is tho only one I know to do a proper job.
Krikkit said:
seabod91 said:
It’s all about preparation.
For a proper job your looking at close to 4-5 days.
Strip ALL old underseal to bear metal.
Zinga primer, roll on.
Corrales glass reinforced paint,
Buzzweld war paint,
Bilt hamber dynax S-50 cavity protection, plug up all drain holes and saturate over night.
All this is pointless if there is any rust already that is not treated / cut out.
Contact Anand viad on Facebook. He is tho only one I know to do a proper job.
So that's an drivetrain, suspension and fuel tank out job then to do it properly, even then you miss lots of areas not accessible with a grinder. Best completely strip it to a bare shell and have it dipped, prepped and re-painted then... For a proper job your looking at close to 4-5 days.
Strip ALL old underseal to bear metal.
Zinga primer, roll on.
Corrales glass reinforced paint,
Buzzweld war paint,
Bilt hamber dynax S-50 cavity protection, plug up all drain holes and saturate over night.
All this is pointless if there is any rust already that is not treated / cut out.
Contact Anand viad on Facebook. He is tho only one I know to do a proper job.
Go to this guy in Dudley, cost about £250, while you wait.
Get all my cars done here
https://www.krown.co.uk/
Much like ACF50 and others if that type. 2 year guarantee.
Get all my cars done here
https://www.krown.co.uk/
Much like ACF50 and others if that type. 2 year guarantee.
seabod91 said:
Also there are a lot of better things out there than waxoil. It’s horrible stuff.
+1, when applied your vehicle will go from oem finish underneath to gloopy oily looking mess that makes it harder in future to spot corrosion. Then in a few years it starts to flake, speeding up corrosion as there are now lots of cracks and crevices to hold moisture.Niponeoff said:
Go to this guy in Dudley, cost about £250, while you wait.
Get all my cars done here
https://www.krown.co.uk/
Much like ACF50 and others if that type. 2 year guarantee.
May be fine as a winter top up depending what he is spraying on. But the op has older cars with original underseal, if there is moisture under the underseal all that’s doing is trapping it. The two year warranty is “ you won’t be able to see the rust for two years”. Get all my cars done here
https://www.krown.co.uk/
Much like ACF50 and others if that type. 2 year guarantee.
Marc p said:
So with my old Supra, after dropping all the subframe, petrol tank, etc, I waxoyl’d the underneath, but not liking the oily finish, I just covered it with Halfords matt black spray paint to give it a nicer and dry to the touch finish. It didn’t react and held up well.
Before:
After Waxoyl:
After Matt black on top:
Certainly helped it look a lot more OEM without the ‘oily’ finish when back together:
You used paint, on top of waxoil?? Can imagine that will stick too well!Before:
After Waxoyl:
After Matt black on top:
Certainly helped it look a lot more OEM without the ‘oily’ finish when back together:
Olivera said:
seabod91 said:
Also there are a lot of better things out there than waxoil. It’s horrible stuff.
+1, when applied your vehicle will go from oem finish underneath to gloopy oily looking mess that makes it harder in future to spot corrosion. Then in a few years it starts to flake, speeding up corrosion as there are now lots of cracks and crevices to hold moisture.seabod91 said:
Niponeoff said:
Go to this guy in Dudley, cost about £250, while you wait.
Get all my cars done here
https://www.krown.co.uk/
Much like ACF50 and others if that type. 2 year guarantee.
May be fine as a winter top up depending what he is spraying on. But the op has older cars with original underseal, if there is moisture under the underseal all that’s doing is trapping it. The two year warranty is “ you won’t be able to see the rust for two years”. Get all my cars done here
https://www.krown.co.uk/
Much like ACF50 and others if that type. 2 year guarantee.
seabod91 said:
May be fine as a winter top up depending what he is spraying on. But the op has older cars with original underseal, if there is moisture under the underseal all that’s doing is trapping it. The two year warranty is “ you won’t be able to see the rust for two years”.
yep big difference between cant see it and done well ...ive spent hours and hours dismantling bits , scraping , poking etc before using a treatment , bet theres still dozens of spots ive missed seabod91 said:
Niponeoff said:
Go to this guy in Dudley, cost about £250, while you wait.
Get all my cars done here
https://www.krown.co.uk/
Much like ACF50 and others if that type. 2 year guarantee.
May be fine as a winter top up depending what he is spraying on. But the op has older cars with original underseal, if there is moisture under the underseal all that’s doing is trapping it. The two year warranty is “ you won’t be able to see the rust for two years”. Get all my cars done here
https://www.krown.co.uk/
Much like ACF50 and others if that type. 2 year guarantee.
ChocolateFrog said:
seabod91 said:
Niponeoff said:
Go to this guy in Dudley, cost about £250, while you wait.
Get all my cars done here
https://www.krown.co.uk/
Much like ACF50 and others if that type. 2 year guarantee.
May be fine as a winter top up depending what he is spraying on. But the op has older cars with original underseal, if there is moisture under the underseal all that’s doing is trapping it. The two year warranty is “ you won’t be able to see the rust for two years”. Get all my cars done here
https://www.krown.co.uk/
Much like ACF50 and others if that type. 2 year guarantee.
steveo3002 said:
seabod91 said:
May be fine as a winter top up depending what he is spraying on. But the op has older cars with original underseal, if there is moisture under the underseal all that’s doing is trapping it. The two year warranty is “ you won’t be able to see the rust for two years”.
yep big difference between cant see it and done well ...ive spent hours and hours dismantling bits , scraping , poking etc before using a treatment , bet theres still dozens of spots ive missed Some excellent advice here.
I had a new pick up treated professionally 15 years ago and can honestly say i have done a better job myself since.
If the car is new its a doddle, but most people bothered about rustproofing have bought used, so more involved work is involved, hence intense rust removal via wire brushing sanding etc, then treating the rust then starting to apply whatever layers you choose.
I've rustproofed several cars now, intergral chassis cars are a doddle, mostly the body is sealed well enough its the cavities are the body issue so some stripping out to get behind the various folds and pressings of wheelarches and sills, then you have the real rust issues that affect subframes and suspension parts, you have all of this with ladder chassised 4x4s but the ladder chassis is a work of day on its own.
What i do is similar to one previous poster, all work should be done in the summer, if the car is used in winter wash it regularly underneath during the season and give a seriously good underbody deep clean in April when the salt has gone (this is good practice for all car owners but many are too idle to even wash the bodywork or dip the oil so no hopes for underneath), then before you start work give it another full wash down and allow it several days to dry.
Its no good slopping waxoyl over everything in sight, all you are doing is hiding the rusting that will continue under the coating and make any welding far more difficult.
Clean rust off, treat, then i applied zinc spary paint, then where possible hard chassis pant, then a coating of bilt hanbers finest wax sprays over the entire underside (BH's cavity waxes inside ladder chassis and cavities sills etc) then after after a few weeks a full underbody spray with ACF50 which as siad will seep into the nooks and crannies such as welds and seams.
ACF50 gets called by some here, but it does what it says on the bottle for me, i buy it by the 4 litre tub and it goes a long way.
Also latterly i've started greasing my ladder chassis by paint brush with marine grease (its cheap) and also the heavy wear areas of the inner sills which are a weak point on Prado bodied Toyota 4x4s.
None of this is a fix and forget solution, there will always by wear and washing off of the ACF50 in particular, but once you've done the initial donkey work its a 20 minute job to give an annual or twce annual spray over undeneath with the ACF50, i keep a spray bottle of that handy and when swapping wheels or servicing brakes etc have a poke nose about and if something looks like it needs a spray over thats the time to do it.
Some of the lads with 4xs have found chain lube a good underbody spray.
It all sounds a massive job but a normal car is 1/3rd the work of a ladder chassised 4x4, the hard work is the initial job, topping up is easy.
I'm well into my 60s and if i can still do this no reason why you youths
can't.
There are upsides and downsides, the ACF50 will seep into bolts etc so chances are things will come undone easier plus the obvious less corrosion to all sorts of fittings such as height sensors.
However everything being dosed in stuff can make you a most unpopular customer at a garage if any in depth work is required.
I had a new pick up treated professionally 15 years ago and can honestly say i have done a better job myself since.
If the car is new its a doddle, but most people bothered about rustproofing have bought used, so more involved work is involved, hence intense rust removal via wire brushing sanding etc, then treating the rust then starting to apply whatever layers you choose.
I've rustproofed several cars now, intergral chassis cars are a doddle, mostly the body is sealed well enough its the cavities are the body issue so some stripping out to get behind the various folds and pressings of wheelarches and sills, then you have the real rust issues that affect subframes and suspension parts, you have all of this with ladder chassised 4x4s but the ladder chassis is a work of day on its own.
What i do is similar to one previous poster, all work should be done in the summer, if the car is used in winter wash it regularly underneath during the season and give a seriously good underbody deep clean in April when the salt has gone (this is good practice for all car owners but many are too idle to even wash the bodywork or dip the oil so no hopes for underneath), then before you start work give it another full wash down and allow it several days to dry.
Its no good slopping waxoyl over everything in sight, all you are doing is hiding the rusting that will continue under the coating and make any welding far more difficult.
Clean rust off, treat, then i applied zinc spary paint, then where possible hard chassis pant, then a coating of bilt hanbers finest wax sprays over the entire underside (BH's cavity waxes inside ladder chassis and cavities sills etc) then after after a few weeks a full underbody spray with ACF50 which as siad will seep into the nooks and crannies such as welds and seams.
ACF50 gets called by some here, but it does what it says on the bottle for me, i buy it by the 4 litre tub and it goes a long way.
Also latterly i've started greasing my ladder chassis by paint brush with marine grease (its cheap) and also the heavy wear areas of the inner sills which are a weak point on Prado bodied Toyota 4x4s.
None of this is a fix and forget solution, there will always by wear and washing off of the ACF50 in particular, but once you've done the initial donkey work its a 20 minute job to give an annual or twce annual spray over undeneath with the ACF50, i keep a spray bottle of that handy and when swapping wheels or servicing brakes etc have a poke nose about and if something looks like it needs a spray over thats the time to do it.
Some of the lads with 4xs have found chain lube a good underbody spray.
It all sounds a massive job but a normal car is 1/3rd the work of a ladder chassised 4x4, the hard work is the initial job, topping up is easy.
I'm well into my 60s and if i can still do this no reason why you youths
can't.There are upsides and downsides, the ACF50 will seep into bolts etc so chances are things will come undone easier plus the obvious less corrosion to all sorts of fittings such as height sensors.
However everything being dosed in stuff can make you a most unpopular customer at a garage if any in depth work is required.
I used these guys for my Barchetta.
https://www.waxoyltreatment.co.uk/how-we-work/
Very impressed with the finish and the care taken.
It cost me £300.
https://www.waxoyltreatment.co.uk/how-we-work/
Very impressed with the finish and the care taken.
It cost me £300.
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