thinning paint
Discussion
Hi ED
I bought it from the second owner who'd had it for 12 months in his front garden! his good lady was getting a bit p***ed off with it, the first owner got it new from manufacturer in 1990, i bought it in october 2000! and I'm getting close to the time for painting, I'm doing it two tone, old english white over blue ( the colour I've had the seats trimmed )once its painted its just a matter of fitting everything i've got ready, seats,carpet, trim etc, they're ready to just slot in
I've still got to make the side screens but i wont need those for the SVA that kit cars have to go through
one job i was pleased with was my wing vents, £125 from dealer returned due to quality problem made a template and knocked a couple out for a fiver, ( see pics when they come mrs hal has to do those )
It seems a long time to be building a car but its all done in my ( precious little ) free time, I'm hoping to have it ready to catch a few rays next year.
Roy
sent pics to your web site, only a couple, I'll take more at a later date.
>> Edited by hal 1 on Saturday 19th November 18:45
I bought it from the second owner who'd had it for 12 months in his front garden! his good lady was getting a bit p***ed off with it, the first owner got it new from manufacturer in 1990, i bought it in october 2000! and I'm getting close to the time for painting, I'm doing it two tone, old english white over blue ( the colour I've had the seats trimmed )once its painted its just a matter of fitting everything i've got ready, seats,carpet, trim etc, they're ready to just slot in
I've still got to make the side screens but i wont need those for the SVA that kit cars have to go through
one job i was pleased with was my wing vents, £125 from dealer returned due to quality problem made a template and knocked a couple out for a fiver, ( see pics when they come mrs hal has to do those )
It seems a long time to be building a car but its all done in my ( precious little ) free time, I'm hoping to have it ready to catch a few rays next year.
Roy
sent pics to your web site, only a couple, I'll take more at a later date.
>> Edited by hal 1 on Saturday 19th November 18:45
Hal
2 pack is fine for a one off, use a decent canistor mask and don't hang around in there checking out your handiwork of course
If you haven't got an oven use a winter activator
Have you got a link to this car you're talking about ?? (ps check the cars in my profile for the stuff I lash up in my garage)
2 pack is fine for a one off, use a decent canistor mask and don't hang around in there checking out your handiwork of course
If you haven't got an oven use a winter activator
Have you got a link to this car you're talking about ?? (ps check the cars in my profile for the stuff I lash up in my garage)
Hi
Maybe it could be for someone who's done a bit of spraying before but i asked the question ' would it be OK for a non professional ' as jimmyfish was asking about the ratio of thinners to paint which led me to thinking he'd not done much spraying before, I have done a little bit of car spraying all in celly as I'm not prepared to risk it, just me i suppose, and also acting on the advice of my paint supplier. incidently the mask i recently used was by 3M and was disposable, It came in a resealable bag and when you start to smell the paint its time for the bin and a new one, cost about £25 if i remember correctly
the best way to get to my project is to google, haldane 100
its not finished yet but i'm moving on a bit and will post some more pics soon i hope
I'll put my web site on my profile soon, my nephew has to do it for me as i'm no computer whizzkid ( in case you hadn't noticed )
Some tasty machinery there incorrigble
>> Edited by hal 1 on Wednesday 23 November 20:51
Maybe it could be for someone who's done a bit of spraying before but i asked the question ' would it be OK for a non professional ' as jimmyfish was asking about the ratio of thinners to paint which led me to thinking he'd not done much spraying before, I have done a little bit of car spraying all in celly as I'm not prepared to risk it, just me i suppose, and also acting on the advice of my paint supplier. incidently the mask i recently used was by 3M and was disposable, It came in a resealable bag and when you start to smell the paint its time for the bin and a new one, cost about £25 if i remember correctly
the best way to get to my project is to google, haldane 100
its not finished yet but i'm moving on a bit and will post some more pics soon i hope
I'll put my web site on my profile soon, my nephew has to do it for me as i'm no computer whizzkid ( in case you hadn't noticed )
Some tasty machinery there incorrigble
>> Edited by hal 1 on Wednesday 23 November 20:51
Hi,
Excuse me for jumping into the conversation here but it is relevant. I'm a complete novice to car resprays and like hal I'm attempting to do this in a garage. After dicussing what I needed with a guy at the body shop, they sold me a cellulose primer, a metallic basecoat and a two-pack lacquer. Its sounds to me that I've been sold a real mix here, does that seem right? Also, the guy said this was a new type of two-pack that doesn't contain isocyanate, have you ever heard of this? I'm not too keen on using twopack if it does contain isocyanate.
Love the haldane by the way, I'm as common as they come when it comes to car restoration, I've got a MGB GT
I'm completely in awe at the Lord of the rings paint job, I'll be lucky if my car doesn't look like an ork after this paint job.
Cheers
Excuse me for jumping into the conversation here but it is relevant. I'm a complete novice to car resprays and like hal I'm attempting to do this in a garage. After dicussing what I needed with a guy at the body shop, they sold me a cellulose primer, a metallic basecoat and a two-pack lacquer. Its sounds to me that I've been sold a real mix here, does that seem right? Also, the guy said this was a new type of two-pack that doesn't contain isocyanate, have you ever heard of this? I'm not too keen on using twopack if it does contain isocyanate.
Love the haldane by the way, I'm as common as they come when it comes to car restoration, I've got a MGB GT
I'm completely in awe at the Lord of the rings paint job, I'll be lucky if my car doesn't look like an ork after this paint job.
Cheers
There are some non-iso 2k lacquers on the market. Presumably you have the TDS and MSDS sheets for the products you've been sold? Should be very clear from them whether or not there's iso present.
As for the combination, cellulose primer is a solid workhorse. I'm not sure a metallic is the best choice for colourcoat if you've never done it before, but hey. What sort of paint is it though?
There are a lot of stages in paintwork, and getting one of them wrong (for example, just using the wrong grade paper for flatting your primer back) could leave you with a bad looking finish. A lot of the variables are determined by the exact product you're using, so make sure you have all the relevant instructions on how to use them.
Bear in mind that isocyanate is not the only noxious chemical in paintwork. Spraying in a closed environment, even iso-free, is going to require extensive protective equipment to avoid damaging your health.
Let us know how you get on, best of luck!
Tol
As for the combination, cellulose primer is a solid workhorse. I'm not sure a metallic is the best choice for colourcoat if you've never done it before, but hey. What sort of paint is it though?
There are a lot of stages in paintwork, and getting one of them wrong (for example, just using the wrong grade paper for flatting your primer back) could leave you with a bad looking finish. A lot of the variables are determined by the exact product you're using, so make sure you have all the relevant instructions on how to use them.
Bear in mind that isocyanate is not the only noxious chemical in paintwork. Spraying in a closed environment, even iso-free, is going to require extensive protective equipment to avoid damaging your health.
Let us know how you get on, best of luck!
Tol
Edited by Anatol on Friday 23 March 15:28
Thanks Anatol,
Probably should have asked all this before I bought the paint, well, at least I'm on a very steap learning curve. Its a basecoat metallic paint. Just to confirm my complete ignorance, how much thinner would you add to this paint? I think I know all the steps to making a good job, atleast I can sand it back if I don't. I read you have to do a final dust of coat with metallic paints, is this just as it sounds?
Cheers,
Paul
Probably should have asked all this before I bought the paint, well, at least I'm on a very steap learning curve. Its a basecoat metallic paint. Just to confirm my complete ignorance, how much thinner would you add to this paint? I think I know all the steps to making a good job, atleast I can sand it back if I don't. I read you have to do a final dust of coat with metallic paints, is this just as it sounds?
Cheers,
Paul
Got a bit confused here with non-USA English terms: 2pack is Basecoat/Clearcoat?
I am a Dupont certified painter and been prepping cars for 18 years, painting for 5 years. I see alot of concern for iso's and let me tell you that 3M likes to blow it out of proportion to sell you more paintsuits and resperators (although I use resperators in the booth too). So far I have worked with Sikkens, Hecker Spies, Dupoint, Sadolun (I think), Nason, Sherwin Williams and BASF paints. Here is my advice to people that want a DIY paintjob:
1. What is your goal? If you want a perfect paint job you will have to pay the professional painter with a good heated spray booth. There is a reason we get paid 6 figure incomes, otherwise everyone would have been able to paint.
2. Complete and panel paintjob: Complete is better for colormatch, panel repair will have to be blended unless a fairly new car and black color. All metallics are pressure sensitive to a various degree and only an experienced paint will deliver a uniform finish as opposed to "tiger marks" or "spotting" by newbs.
3. Practice and patience: do some small passes on scrap panels or whatever - get the concept of controlling your material (i.e. paint) flow with the trigger. Read and talk to as many painters as you can - get them to look at your test panels and ask what you did wrong. IT WILL SAVE YOU MONEY when you screw up your car's paint.
4. Paint choice: Single Stage(ss) or Base/Clear? Do you intend to keep the car? If yes then use B/C. In the long run your color will look good by a simple waxing and light polish on the clear (laquer) coat adn clear coat protects from UV ray discoloring the paint. Runs and dirt can be easily buffed out, whilst in the case of SS you would be buffing the actual color and thus reducing the thickness of the color film.
5. Paint reduction (thinning): it is very color and environment dependant. Generally, from my experience, Silver and Gold mettalics cover the best. Then solid Blacks and Blues. Then Greens, Whites, Yellows, Reds, Maroon mettalics (sequence is intentional). So, the coverage will determine how much thinner/reducer will you put in your color. Would you rather spray 8-10 coats of standard reduction or 2 heavy and 2 light coats? Also, in the summer the base dries quicker so you will have to reduce you paint more.
Anyway, these are just the basics. BTW, I find BASF Limpco Supreme the best paint for my money,but there are other good products.
I am a Dupont certified painter and been prepping cars for 18 years, painting for 5 years. I see alot of concern for iso's and let me tell you that 3M likes to blow it out of proportion to sell you more paintsuits and resperators (although I use resperators in the booth too). So far I have worked with Sikkens, Hecker Spies, Dupoint, Sadolun (I think), Nason, Sherwin Williams and BASF paints. Here is my advice to people that want a DIY paintjob:
1. What is your goal? If you want a perfect paint job you will have to pay the professional painter with a good heated spray booth. There is a reason we get paid 6 figure incomes, otherwise everyone would have been able to paint.
2. Complete and panel paintjob: Complete is better for colormatch, panel repair will have to be blended unless a fairly new car and black color. All metallics are pressure sensitive to a various degree and only an experienced paint will deliver a uniform finish as opposed to "tiger marks" or "spotting" by newbs.
3. Practice and patience: do some small passes on scrap panels or whatever - get the concept of controlling your material (i.e. paint) flow with the trigger. Read and talk to as many painters as you can - get them to look at your test panels and ask what you did wrong. IT WILL SAVE YOU MONEY when you screw up your car's paint.
4. Paint choice: Single Stage(ss) or Base/Clear? Do you intend to keep the car? If yes then use B/C. In the long run your color will look good by a simple waxing and light polish on the clear (laquer) coat adn clear coat protects from UV ray discoloring the paint. Runs and dirt can be easily buffed out, whilst in the case of SS you would be buffing the actual color and thus reducing the thickness of the color film.
5. Paint reduction (thinning): it is very color and environment dependant. Generally, from my experience, Silver and Gold mettalics cover the best. Then solid Blacks and Blues. Then Greens, Whites, Yellows, Reds, Maroon mettalics (sequence is intentional). So, the coverage will determine how much thinner/reducer will you put in your color. Would you rather spray 8-10 coats of standard reduction or 2 heavy and 2 light coats? Also, in the summer the base dries quicker so you will have to reduce you paint more.
Anyway, these are just the basics. BTW, I find BASF Limpco Supreme the best paint for my money,but there are other good products.
Hi guys the names dave 60yrs old and still sparying cars they wont let me stop lol. am an old celly sprayer and just turned to 2k after a lot of thought, have just sprayed my sons RS2000 in 2k base black with 2k clear any body got any idea as to how long i should leave it before i wet flat and polish it i know you dont need to polish out 2k but its got a few dust nibbs as it was done at home in garage shhhhh. cheeRS
big patt said:
Hi guys the names dave 60yrs old and still sparying cars they wont let me stop lol. am an old celly sprayer and just turned to 2k after a lot of thought, have just sprayed my sons RS2000 in 2k base black with 2k clear any body got any idea as to how long i should leave it before i wet flat and polish it i know you dont need to polish out 2k but its got a few dust nibbs as it was done at home in garage shhhhh. cheeRS
Next day matey bit late now lolEd
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