Anyone know about glue?
Discussion
I've had to take my headlining out, and I need to re-glue the moulded fibreboard back to the roof frame.
The original glue was like a thick treacle that is very tenacious and pulls apart like a very strong elastic band. It's still soft and flexible after 20 years.
Any suggestions what this is and what I should replace it with. I imagine that I will need a certain amount of repositioning time before it fully sets, and it needs to be able to withstand summer heat. Thanks.
The original glue was like a thick treacle that is very tenacious and pulls apart like a very strong elastic band. It's still soft and flexible after 20 years.
Any suggestions what this is and what I should replace it with. I imagine that I will need a certain amount of repositioning time before it fully sets, and it needs to be able to withstand summer heat. Thanks.
Thanks for the replies, chaps. It seems to me that the most appropriate stuff is "Bondrite C5008" for £11.72 for one litre mail order, which appears to be manufactured for this exact purpose. Alternatively, I can pop down to Toolstation and buy a tube of clear "Evo-Stik Sticks Like", which is good from -40 to 100C for half the price. Not sure which to go for.
For anyone who is following this, I opted for the Evo-Stik. Bad move - I tested it on some fibre board and stiff card. It extrudes with the consistency of wallpaper paste, and sets as fast. After an hour and a half it was starting to grab, but I could easily pull the joint apart. No good for my purpose, so I'm £6.60 lighter. I'm now considering the Bondrite, but I can't find any independent information about it on the web.
I don't know if anyone is still following this, but as no-one really knew the answer I'll contribute what I've learned.
Automotive heavy trim applications use a thick polychloroprene (neoprene) based brush-on contact adhesive, which has a wide temperature tolerance up to 120C, so that it won't soften in summer sun or within an engine bay. Dunlop used to manufacture it, but sold out to Alpha Adhesives, who claim to supply Aston Martin and jaguar. It is made available to the public through several small blenders such as Adhesives Direct, AS Essentials and Bondrite, who all supply 1 litre for around £20. I've opted for the Bondrite C5008.
Automotive heavy trim applications use a thick polychloroprene (neoprene) based brush-on contact adhesive, which has a wide temperature tolerance up to 120C, so that it won't soften in summer sun or within an engine bay. Dunlop used to manufacture it, but sold out to Alpha Adhesives, who claim to supply Aston Martin and jaguar. It is made available to the public through several small blenders such as Adhesives Direct, AS Essentials and Bondrite, who all supply 1 litre for around £20. I've opted for the Bondrite C5008.
Black Beauty said:
I don't know if anyone is still following this, but as no-one really knew the answer I'll contribute what I've learned.
I did give you the answer ^^^up there^^^ i've re installed dozens of headlinings with tigerseal which is a bog standard PU adhesive that will do the job perfectly and is exactly what a lot of manufacturers use. For the sake of a tenner and a cartridge gun you could have saved yourself a whole lot of research.dentmanwarren said:
I did give you the answer ^^^up there^^^ i've re installed dozens of headlinings with tigerseal which is a bog standard PU adhesive that will do the job perfectly and is exactly what a lot of manufacturers use. For the sake of a tenner and a cartridge gun you could have saved yourself a whole lot of research.
I hope I never have to remove a roof lining that you've refitted!Apologies Warren - if you say it works then it works - I wish I'd tried Tigerseal instead of Evo-Stik. However, Ford didn't use Tigerseal when my car was built, and I've read that it forms a hard inseperable bond.
I've now used the polychlorophene stuff I bought to re-glue two sound deadening blocks back into the engine bay, and I've successfully re-installed my headlining moulding. It both looks like and performs like the original adhesive, which is important to me.
I've now used the polychlorophene stuff I bought to re-glue two sound deadening blocks back into the engine bay, and I've successfully re-installed my headlining moulding. It both looks like and performs like the original adhesive, which is important to me.
Edited by Black Beauty on Wednesday 24th August 19:28
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