1980s tree sap - need extreme suggestions?

[jon-]

So, today I've started trying to detail my 1985 635csi. I've only had it for a few weeks and this is the first chance I've had to get to the paint.

I knew it had a tree sap problem when I got it, but I'm really struggling to shift it. It's everywhere (white car) and must have been on the car a long time, think Jurassic Park style tree sap.

So far I've tried (in order):

- Washing
- Clay
- Megs paint cleaner by hand
- Sonus SFX2 by hand
- Sonus SFX2 by random orbit polisher with medium pad
- Sonus SFX2 by random orbit polisher with cutting pad
- Shouting at it
- Turtle wax bug and tar remover

And still nothing. The Sonus and polisher helped shift the smaller bits of sap, but the larger ones remained unaffected.

Anyone got any extreme ideas?

Should I try shouting at it again?

[Defcon5]

Wheel acid applied directly to the sap?

[Johnboy Mac]

I've had similar problem. Ended up using 3000 wet & dry sandpaper, using plenty of soap & water.

[jon-]

Johnboy Mac said:

I've had similar problem. Ended up using 3000 wet & dry sandpaper, using plenty of soap & water.

That's extreme! I might try a harder cutting compound first with the random orbit polisher, with the amount of sap on the car (the 635 isn't small and it covers the entire top surface) ) I'd be worried about having and paint left at the end.

[mph1977]

have you tried gentle heat i.e. hairdrier / hot air gun on low ( not the gas axe!) to soften the resins ?

[Johnboy Mac]

jon- said:

That's extreme! I might try a harder cutting compound first with the random orbit polisher, with the amount of sap on the car (the 635 isn't small and it covers the entire top surface) ) I'd be worried about having and paint left at the end.

Just be gentle and as I said plenty of soap & water.

[jon-]

mph1977 said:

have you tried gentle heat i.e. hairdrier / hot air gun on low ( not the gas axe!) to soften the resins ?

Just tried some heat and it seems to be taking the top layer off, leaving a nice yellow stain on the paint. Hopefully some extreme cutting compound will be able to take care of that

Going to be a long process tho! Any quicker suggestions still welcome.

[AmiableChimp]

WD-40?

[Tanguero]

Natural turpentine (NOT white spirit/turps)

[Evangelion]

I'd go with the 3000 wet & dry, it's solved many seemingly unsolveable problems for me! Just remember to use plenty of warm soapy water - don't forget it's one of the mildest grades there is. In fact it would probably cut more if you turned it over and used the paper side!

[potato muncher]

If it is tree sap then cold or warm water should bring it off. If not they are probably microblisters.

[GarryA]

Find a decent body shop, put the car in the paint oven for a bit.

[jon-]

Evangelion said:

I'd go with the 3000 wet & dry, it's solved many seemingly unsolveable problems for me! Just remember to use plenty of warm soapy water - don't forget it's one of the mildest grades there is. In fact it would probably cut more if you turned it over and used the paper side!

After trying Megs Ultimate Compound and still not shifting it (but the paint came up lovely!) I went to the wet and dry (2000). Used plenty of soapy water and I've done the boot and roof now. I've only tried polishing a small section with the ultimate compound but it looks like it's going to come up real nice

There are small places where I'm pretty sure I've gone through what's left of the clear coat, but over all it's much better and it was never going to be perfect.

potato muncher said:

If it is tree sap then cold or warm water should bring it off. If not they are probably microblisters.

Drat, didn't think about trying water!

[Tallbut Buxomly]

Oddly have you tried toothpaste? Just a weird thought thats come into my mind after spending the afternoon detailing the interior of my car with my new sonic car toothbrush thingy.

[jon-]

Tallbut Buxomly said:

Oddly have you tried toothpaste?

Oddly, no

I can imagine the 'whitening' toothpaste has a bit of cutting compound in.

[Tallbut Buxomly]

jon- said:

Oddly, no

I can imagine the 'whitening' toothpaste has a bit of cutting compound in.

This was my thinking and it may be abrasive enough to remove the sap but not abrasive enough to damage anything else.

[jon-]

Tallbut Buxomly said:

This was my thinking and it may be abrasive enough to remove the sap but not abrasive enough to damage anything else.

This was jurassic sap though! Megs ultimate compound is, afaik, the second most abrasive polish they sell and it barely shifted them!

[Detailed]

I appriciate the stages you have been through and sounds pretty aggressive. But maybe try some iron x on a well rinsed paint surface. Leave for 5 minutes to do its magic, and see if that eases it off at all:

http://www.elitecarcare.co.uk/carpro-ironx-highly-...

then I find a great aggressive combo (only if you know what you are doing) is:

http://www.elitecarcare.co.uk/scholl-concepts-s02-...

on this pad:

http://www.i4detailing.co.uk/acatalog/Lake_Country...

but this is a very aggrasive set up so be very carefull, but you will have much better luck on a rotary.

KR

Mike

[jon-]

Thanks for the suggestions, but I already went down the sandpaper route.

I've had chance to Ultimate Compound the boot this morning and it's come up really well. Still a tiny bit of swirling but the next step (Sonus SFX2) should finish that off.

I'm not usually a fan of Megs but this Ultimate Compound is really impressive!

Going to be another few days of detailing before I'm close to finish though, sections (close to the rubber seals) need to be done by hand which is NOT a quick process!

[Tallbut Buxomly]

As i posted in my other thread i have got myself one of these and it excellent. could you use one for near the rubber..


http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/...