Diagnosing an issue with an EV? Have ruled out headgasket!

Diagnosing an issue with an EV? Have ruled out headgasket!

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mikeyr

Original Poster:

3,179 posts

206 months

Thursday 21st September 2023
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Car is a Citroen C Zero from 2013. Same as a Peugeot Ion and a Mitsubishi i Miev. Little electric runaround (more details here if interested... https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&... ). Very limited to what I can do myself to diagnose the issue but know there are some techy minds on PH that might be able to suggest some solutions. And I know for many the solution to this car will be burn it with fire but I kinda like it and it does what I need it to. When it works!

I'm no mechanic but I've tried working my way through an issue which has happened today...

History:
Bought car a couple of weeks ago, it's done 90000 miles. A few days after purchase it did a few short trips and then wouldn't go into ready mode (that's the equivalent of starting your car). Easy enough fix, needed a new 054 battery and all has been fine since.

Fast forward to today and we had very heavy rain/wind last night. This may be related but keeping an open mind. Car was on charge last night outside and has a full charge. Car went to ready mode but when I drove off it felt like the rear tyres were sticking, almost as if the brakes were still applied. It went about 200 metres before juddering to a halt and the yellow battery/exclamation light came on. Car refuses to move. Take key out and restart and car starts fine UNTIL i tried to move it. Same symptoms whether in D or R. or even B. It almost immediately either judders to a halt or refuses to move, every time bringing up the same error light.

My first thoughts were that the brakes had seized in the rain. I've jacked up the back of the car and both driven wheels spin freely so think I can rule out the drum brakes? Haven't checked the fronts but did manage to easily push the car back to the house so can see no evidence of the fronts being an issue either, especially as would expect back wheels to spin under power even if fronts were stuck on.

I don't have a code reader (other than an ELM327 which don't think works with these anyway) and my next plan was to pop the back end up on bricks to see if rear wheels spin on using accelerator when not fighting friction of road. Figure that would give some indication whether it's a manual or electrical issue. And some time in the sun today in case there is water ingress somewhere?

Can see no evidence of a leak from the gearbox at rear so doubt it has lost all the fluid from there overnight. I'd expect (but could be wrong!) that if was short on lubricant would be making painful noises but still progressing?

mikeyr

Original Poster:

3,179 posts

206 months

Thursday 21st September 2023
quotequote all
Should add, the gear selector moves freely and looks (visually at least) that the linkage underneath car is moving about okay. No issues with is moving between modes on screen. Just tried again and car moved slightly but again seems to be fighting against something before cuts out. Really does feel like brakes are stuck on but again, can push car fine and handbrake lever seems to engage/disengage easily.

mikeyr

Original Poster:

3,179 posts

206 months

Thursday 21st September 2023
quotequote all
Small update (and I'll keep this thread updated with progress in case useful to others). Lifted front and then rear wheels afterwards (safe and securely!) and checked all wheels would rotate. They do although fronts definitely got more drag than rears. With rear wheels in air I put car in reverse, the wheels turned slowly then would stop. They'd go a little faster if I put accelerator further down. Always coming to a stop of own accord which assume was likely software related but always without the yellow warning light. Same in drive. Incidentally, press the brake pedal when stationary more than five times and the car beeps angrily at you

I cleaned the linkage a bit with a brush and sprayed on some GT85 to see if was any way/dirt trapped and on next attempt the car moved. in fact, it was fine and smooth for about a mile, tried some heavier braking and then putting foot on accelerator on a longer 60mph stretch of road and after couple of goes it shut down again, leaving me to coast to a halt, thankfully near a layby.

Took a few restarts and some juddering to get me another half mile when it got worse again. Tried moving the shift lever a little from left to right in case was a loose connector but didn't seem to help.

Is now back at home and the problem isn't solved although we've maybe made some progress. Can't see that this is a binding brake issue, no ABS lights etc. Interesting that the linkage seemed to make a difference but then again I've not had any issues with the dashboard showing wrong gear or the like. Think would flash but could it be a sensor that is intermittently recording the wrong gear?

Could a faulty ABS or other type of brake sensor be messing with the system? Could the linkage or sensors need replacing? Could I have a huge bill to pay coming up? So many questions!

chrisch77

823 posts

88 months

Thursday 21st September 2023
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Maybe a drowned electronic control unit? any sign of water ingress inside the cabin such as wet carpet etc?

mikeyr

Original Poster:

3,179 posts

206 months

Thursday 21st September 2023
quotequote all
Great shout but no, checked that this morning. Can't find any evidence of water ingress.

Have had it suggested that the gear linkage uses two sensors that have to correspond over which gear the car is in. Whether that would cause this issue though I don't know!

PurpleTurtle

8,110 posts

157 months

Thursday 21st September 2023
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I can't help with any technical advice, but this bit jumped out of your post to me:

Bought car a couple of weeks ago, it's done 90000 miles. A few days after purchase it did a few short trips and then wouldn't go into ready mode

Did you buy privately? Do you think the previous owner was aware of these issues?

I know it is caveat emptor and all that but it boils my piss when people sell on a car with a known issue but don't mention it. I know they are not obliged to but it still irks me.

Good luck getting it sorted.

EDIT: I am assuming you are familiar with this forum? https://myimiev.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4225&amp...

Edited by PurpleTurtle on Thursday 21st September 15:29

A500leroy

6,462 posts

131 months

Thursday 21st September 2023
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Is the handbrake electric?

mikeyr

Original Poster:

3,179 posts

206 months

Thursday 21st September 2023
quotequote all
Great question... and who knows? Yes was private sale. Not much can do about it, gotta work on assumption that it hadn't been a problem and has given up the ghost in last few days. Or maybe it's been an intermittent issue for a long time. I'm trying to stay cool about the whole thing to be honest. May or may not last! biggrin

mikeyr

Original Poster:

3,179 posts

206 months

Thursday 21st September 2023
quotequote all
A500leroy said:
Is the handbrake electric?
no, proper old school cable! seems to work fine, action is smooth, releases wheels when driving, etc.

LivLL

11,512 posts

210 months

Thursday 21st September 2023
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How's that 12v battery? You've replaced it once already, is it being charged? Just a thought....

mikeyr

Original Poster:

3,179 posts

206 months

Thursday 21st September 2023
quotequote all
12v is all good, car is "starting" perfectly and all ancillary electrics work. Just seems unhappy when needs to actual move anywhere! Which is a shame 'cause, you know, the only reason I actually need a car...

essayer

10,073 posts

207 months

Thursday 21st September 2023
quotequote all
Anything to do with this recall perhaps?
https://car-recalls.co.uk/recall/citroen-c-zero-en...

may also be worth posting on speakev - https://www.speakev.com/forums/general-groupe-stel...

Edited by essayer on Thursday 21st September 16:37

mikeyr

Original Poster:

3,179 posts

206 months

Thursday 21st September 2023
quotequote all
thanks, think mine is after that date (and has no o/s recalls) but will check.

now after an OBD reader that can read fault codes on these, for some reason the basic ELM327 doesn't. which is annoying.

mikeyr

Original Poster:

3,179 posts

206 months

Sunday 24th September 2023
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Solution was to sell it as shares/repairs when it let me down again. Guy who bought it was a trader and couldn't get his OBD to work on it. Hopefully if does appear for sale again soon will have been fixed.

yeager2004

269 posts

104 months

Monday 25th September 2023
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it's these kinds of issues that makes me nervous about buying an older electric car. Sure, any older second hand car can run into problems, but garages who have the necessary tools and experience to work on electric cars seem few and far between at the moment.

john2443

6,424 posts

224 months

Wednesday 4th October 2023
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yeager2004 said:
...garages who have the necessary tools and experience to work on electric cars seem few and far between at the moment.
Not on every street corner, but seem to be one in most areas and they have central tech support so if it's a car they haven't worked on they can get some info.
The ones I've used (in Sussex) have given me a 1 or 2 year old EV as courtesy car which is a nice way to have an elongated test drive!

https://hevra.org.uk/garages.html



vikingaero

11,787 posts

182 months

Thursday 5th October 2023
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We have the petrol Mitsu version of this car and have looked at getting the i-miev. From my limited perspective it seems that a lot of cars being advertised are Cat N(D) cars where minimal damage has written them off because of the niche nature of the car - sometimes just a couple of body panels. And the majority seem to be ones that are electronically bricked that no-one can fix.