1969 Maserati Ghibli - The Resurection

[The Surveyor]

Stick with it Roger, the extra pride of knowing that you did it all yourself will make it worth it. Even with the defects, the colour looks amazing

Paul

[windy1]

Did you use 2K primers or were they solvent based acrylics?

[evil len]

Will you (did you) flat back the colour coat before the clear coats (to remove the mottled effect) ?

[Chad speed]

windy1 said:

Did you use 2K primers or were they solvent based acrylics?

The primers were cellulose based not 2k. I spent some time researching the compatibility of cellulose primer and water base colour and all indications were positive, assuming you take the usual precautions with the primers. So I don't really think it was a compatibility issue which is backed up by the problems being confined to one area.

[Chad speed]

evil len said:

Will you (did you) flat back the colour coat before the clear coats (to remove the mottled effect) ?

The colour base coat was perfectly smooth and flat, the mottled finish is in the clear coat. If the base coat is less than perfect you are more or less stuffed as no flatting off is possible before the clear coat, its paper thin and the metallic particles rub out, even wiping down with 'panel wipe' is not a good idea as we'll see later.

[RYH64E]

Chad speed said:

The primers were cellulose based not 2k. I spent some time researching the compatibility of cellulose primer and water base colour and all indications were positive, assuming you take the usual precautions with the primers. So I don't really think it was a compatibility issue which is backed up by the problems being confined to one area.

Reading some of your earlier posts I'm surprised you didn't make your own paint from bits of metal, pigment and some solvent you had lying around in the garage...

I have absolutely no doubt that when we get up to 'real time' the results will be fantastic.

[CoolC]

I've just found this thread and have spent the morning not working but reading.

I'm astounded at your fabrication skills, and the work you've achieved in a home garage. Top work sir!

Can't wait now until the real time pictures are posted.

[NotNormal]

I had a car painted (not by me) a good few years back that had those sorts of little bubbles pop up, appeard a few days/weeks after picking up the finished car. When popped they were full of moisture so not sure if you experienced the same when you 'broke the bubbles' as it were. I'm thinking maybe moisture related as you are working outside in the autumn/winter

I'm no expert though, just raising my experience on something that to me looked similar when looking at your pictures.

Edited by NotNormal on Thursday 13th December 13:03

[windy1]

I would have chosen a 2K primer to go under any 2K top coat product as it is likely there will be adhesion issues if the solvent hasn't completely evaporated (i.e. it will need to have been there a few months). Also if you've applied etch to bare steel before the primer make sure it is a proper 50 / 50 mixed in a pot acid type etch. Some of the 1K high build primers / etches never seem to go off. The other problem you will likely have a few months down the line is the 1K primers will sink into any repairs and they'll show up through the top coat. You don't seem to get this with 2K as once it is set it is set hard like araldite.

I've got a similar build thread going here with some pictures of the painting if you've got a couple of hours to spare of an evening

http://forum.wscc.co.uk/forum/index.php?/topic/451...

Edited by windy1 on Thursday 13th December 17:37

[Chad speed]

I never did put the colour and clear coats on the repaired blister on the wheel arch. Even if I had been skilful enough to blend the patch in I still had a worry that other defects would appear in the future and I would be chasing them round forever. So, and I guess you knew this was coming, I decided it all had to come off in any area that was suspect.


The clear coat was super tough but still flexible enough being only a few weeks old, to tear off the body surface. The effort to tear it off reduced markedly around the defect areas giving me confidence that I would know just how big an area I would have to remove.


Its clear the problem was the yellow primer going over the grey, where it hadn't adhered it was easy to scrape off.

The blisters were perfectly dry inside and there was no residue or discolouration, or any clue at all really. The only thing that comes to mind is this was the only area of the car that the yellow primer was sprayed in direct sunlight. If I laid the primer on too thickly the sun could have helped the surface to flash off too fast and dry before the lower layer could release its thinners, never had a problem with similar paints and spraying conditions in the past but I guess there's always a first time

[MarkS3]

Fantastic work so far Chadspeed, I'm simply amazed at your metalwork skills and how you can do so much complex stuff youself at home. You're an inspiration! This thread is really keeping me hooked, I can't wait to check each day for the next instalment! One question I have is if you paint the bonnet, boot, doors etc. separately from the bodyshell, won't you have colour match problems? I'm sure you've thought of this and have a solution but I'm intrigued....

[Chad speed]

windy1 said:

I would have chosen a 2K primer to go under any 2K top coat product as it is likely there will be adhesion issues if the solvent hasn't completely evaporated (i.e. it will need to have been there a few months). Also if you've applied etch to bare steel before the primer make sure it is a proper 50 / 50 mixed in a pot acid type etch. Some of the 1K high build primers / etches never seem to go off. The other problem you will likely have a few months down the line is the 1K primers will sink into any repairs and they'll show up through the top coat. You don't seem to get this with 2K as once it is set it is set hard like araldite.

I've got a similar build thread going here with some pictures of the painting if you've got a couple of hours to spare of an evening

http://forum.wscc.co.uk/forum/index.php?/topic/451...

Edited by windy1 on Thursday 13th December 17:37

Windy
All valid points so thanks, I was aware of the 'so called' pitfalls with cellulose base and modern top coats. I say 'so called' because they are actually entirely compatible if you get it right, its just a little bit more tricky. I have plenty of experience of sinking paint, its avoidance and rectification, having sprayed a good few GRP cars, now they really do try your patience!
Nice project by the way, I've got a bit of solid colour envy, I would have avoided a whole lot of pitfall if I'd gone down that route which was one of the options a while ago (really liking the original metallic green though)

[Chad speed]

MarkS3 said:

Fantastic work so far Chadspeed, I'm simply amazed at your metalwork skills and how you can do so much complex stuff youself at home. You're an inspiration! This thread is really keeping me hooked, I can't wait to check each day for the next instalment! One question I have is if you paint the bonnet, boot, doors etc. separately from the bodyshell, won't you have colour match problems? I'm sure you've thought of this and have a solution but I'm intrigued....

A good question. If it were a solid colour there would be no issue at all, being metallic there are a few things you have to observe. The colour will always be the same but the metallic effect can vary depending on gun pressure, gun distance and angle from the panel, and seemingly how wet you put it on. Dusting the last colour coat on dryish, perpendicular to the panel, at a consistent pressure and distance, should give even results. Therein lies the skill of the sprayer and some of what you pay him for I guess.

[Chad speed]

I still have that sheet of base coat and lacquer and its as flexible now as it was then.


Top of the wing taken back to bare metal, the side only needed the yellow primer removing.

[beach bum]

Temperature and humidity control is vital when working with car paints.

Amazing work on an amazing car. Keep it up.

[Streetrod]

As a home painter myself you have my sympathies. Having looked at those bubbles there could be a number of explanations. Personally I would never ever mix paint types or manufacturers for that matter, it’s just not worth the risk. As for those runs in the clear I always spray very thin dust coats to start with and build up that way, it is all too easy to spay heavy and watch with horror as most of it ends up in ugly runs

[Chad speed]

The most de-greased, etched and cleaned panel in the world gets re-primed

[Globs]

Nice bit of yellow on the floor too

When I painted by leyland red midget I ended the project by mixing all the paints I could find together and spraying the garage floor back to a concrete colour

Looks a great project BTW - lovely classic too and some fantastic metalwork from yourself.

[Chad speed]

First colour coat

[Baron Greenback]

Looking good! Finger crossed for the rest of the coats!