The Range Rover Classic thread
Discussion
Welcome back!!
Sorrel I think might be the colour of the LSE leather?
Re over heating, with the RV8 the stats favour one of two things, a head gasket or 14.78 bn dead flies in the rad or some rad issue. If the former then you might see emulsion in the oil filler cap, falling water levels etc, if the latter then stick a hose pipe at the front that has a bit of a jet going on and see what kind of crap comes flowing out from under the car. I've had some in the past where you wouldn't believe how many bodies were wedged in the cooling fins.
Sorrel I think might be the colour of the LSE leather?
Re over heating, with the RV8 the stats favour one of two things, a head gasket or 14.78 bn dead flies in the rad or some rad issue. If the former then you might see emulsion in the oil filler cap, falling water levels etc, if the latter then stick a hose pipe at the front that has a bit of a jet going on and see what kind of crap comes flowing out from under the car. I've had some in the past where you wouldn't believe how many bodies were wedged in the cooling fins.
This might help to give you an idea of what is factory fit.
Click on the various headings for diagrams & part number.
https://new.lrcat.com/#!/1230
The radiator thing in your pic & the two lengths of angle iron don't appear in the above.
The leather colour shows as sorrel as DA says.
Flushing the radiator(s) both internally & externally is a good idea & checking the fins haven't rotted away is too.
If the coolant radiator is old than it may be well bunged up & the best solution would be to replace it or have yours rebuilt.
Been there, done that & the difference in the before & after weight was considerable.
Whilst it isn't a surefire detector of head gasket failure a sniff test isn't a bad idea.
As a leak into a cylinder(s) has the effect of steam cleaning the cylinder(s) an unusually clean spark plug would raise suspicion - providing all the plugs are the same age.
Mayo in the oil filler cap is common on cars that are only used for very short journeys - worse in cold weather, oil or mayo in the radiator or expansion tank would be more of a worry.
Click on the various headings for diagrams & part number.
https://new.lrcat.com/#!/1230
The radiator thing in your pic & the two lengths of angle iron don't appear in the above.
The leather colour shows as sorrel as DA says.
Flushing the radiator(s) both internally & externally is a good idea & checking the fins haven't rotted away is too.
If the coolant radiator is old than it may be well bunged up & the best solution would be to replace it or have yours rebuilt.
Been there, done that & the difference in the before & after weight was considerable.
Whilst it isn't a surefire detector of head gasket failure a sniff test isn't a bad idea.
As a leak into a cylinder(s) has the effect of steam cleaning the cylinder(s) an unusually clean spark plug would raise suspicion - providing all the plugs are the same age.
Mayo in the oil filler cap is common on cars that are only used for very short journeys - worse in cold weather, oil or mayo in the radiator or expansion tank would be more of a worry.
Edited by paintman on Sunday 12th May 20:04
Hi all, Can anyone recommend somewhere to get some outer sills replaced (both sides).
I have contacted a few places to get some guestimates on pricing, but they want to see it (can under stand but I have yet to buy it) to give a price or have quoted between 1 & 3 weeks (5 -15k).
Thanks
Paw
I have contacted a few places to get some guestimates on pricing, but they want to see it (can under stand but I have yet to buy it) to give a price or have quoted between 1 & 3 weeks (5 -15k).
Thanks
Paw
No mayo or dodgy looking oil…
Viscous fan and twin electric fans all working fine
Water pump seems fine
The fluid in the expansion tank was pretty brown and horrible looking though
Plan of attack is a a new thermostat and a new radiator on basis the radiator is getting red hot at the bottom but staying cool at the top… this suggests to me a blockage ?
Fingers crossed ! New metal rad going on … I think these are oil coolers as well ? So will do oil and filter also
Viscous fan and twin electric fans all working fine
Water pump seems fine
The fluid in the expansion tank was pretty brown and horrible looking though
Plan of attack is a a new thermostat and a new radiator on basis the radiator is getting red hot at the bottom but staying cool at the top… this suggests to me a blockage ?
Fingers crossed ! New metal rad going on … I think these are oil coolers as well ? So will do oil and filter also
Paw said:
Hi all, Can anyone recommend somewhere to get some outer sills replaced (both sides).
I have contacted a few places to get some guestimates on pricing, but they want to see it (can under stand but I have yet to buy it) to give a price or have quoted between 1 & 3 weeks (5 -15k).
Thanks
Paw
The go-to place in my opinion is Twenty Ten in Redditch. Their labour rate is £95/hrI have contacted a few places to get some guestimates on pricing, but they want to see it (can under stand but I have yet to buy it) to give a price or have quoted between 1 & 3 weeks (5 -15k).
Thanks
Paw
Not the cheapest but they are absolute experts
squirdan said:
No mayo or dodgy looking oil…
Viscous fan and twin electric fans all working fine
Water pump seems fine
The fluid in the expansion tank was pretty brown and horrible looking though
Plan of attack is a a new thermostat and a new radiator on basis the radiator is getting red hot at the bottom but staying cool at the top… this suggests to me a blockage ?
Fingers crossed ! New metal rad going on … I think these are oil coolers as well ? So will do oil and filter also
Brown is the colour coolants go after a while so not per se a sign of anything bad. Viscous fan and twin electric fans all working fine
Water pump seems fine
The fluid in the expansion tank was pretty brown and horrible looking though
Plan of attack is a a new thermostat and a new radiator on basis the radiator is getting red hot at the bottom but staying cool at the top… this suggests to me a blockage ?
Fingers crossed ! New metal rad going on … I think these are oil coolers as well ? So will do oil and filter also
If thermostat is opening and closing (as tested in a bowl of boiled water) then the system may just have an airlock which is why the rad is hot at the bottom and cold at the top.
Before spending any money it may be worth just bleeding the system because the radiator could be absolutely fine but just have an airlock?
Otherwise all seems logical.
I might be in a slight pickle.
I booked the Range Rover in with the local Land Rover man for new discs, pads, calipers, flexi hoses, metal pipes if needed and master cylinder, a full brakes overhaul since I'll be towing 3.5 tons.
On the way, oil light came on and gauge dropped to nothing.
Hopefully it's a sender or wiring failure.
But if it's not, I might be in need of an engine.
My thoughts, from a gite in Morbihan, 3.9/4.0 or 4.6, gems or Thor, doesn't really matter, but if I'm doing it then it needs to be a top hat block.
Thoughts?
I booked the Range Rover in with the local Land Rover man for new discs, pads, calipers, flexi hoses, metal pipes if needed and master cylinder, a full brakes overhaul since I'll be towing 3.5 tons.
On the way, oil light came on and gauge dropped to nothing.
Hopefully it's a sender or wiring failure.
But if it's not, I might be in need of an engine.
My thoughts, from a gite in Morbihan, 3.9/4.0 or 4.6, gems or Thor, doesn't really matter, but if I'm doing it then it needs to be a top hat block.
Thoughts?
Huntsman said:
I might be in a slight pickle.
I booked the Range Rover in with the local Land Rover man for new discs, pads, calipers, flexi hoses, metal pipes if needed and master cylinder, a full brakes overhaul since I'll be towing 3.5 tons.
On the way, oil light came on and gauge dropped to nothing.
Hopefully it's a sender or wiring failure.
But if it's not, I might be in need of an engine.
My thoughts, from a gite in Morbihan, 3.9/4.0 or 4.6, gems or Thor, doesn't really matter, but if I'm doing it then it needs to be a top hat block.
Thoughts?
You may have just blocked the filter. If the pressure just went when driving and the oil level is ok then I think the list is: gauge, pump, filter. I booked the Range Rover in with the local Land Rover man for new discs, pads, calipers, flexi hoses, metal pipes if needed and master cylinder, a full brakes overhaul since I'll be towing 3.5 tons.
On the way, oil light came on and gauge dropped to nothing.
Hopefully it's a sender or wiring failure.
But if it's not, I might be in need of an engine.
My thoughts, from a gite in Morbihan, 3.9/4.0 or 4.6, gems or Thor, doesn't really matter, but if I'm doing it then it needs to be a top hat block.
Thoughts?
As an unknown engine that you've not used and with the light coming on during driving and then pressure failing quite quickly, I think I'd start with a flush and change while hoping it was just a load of sludge from standing a long time and it's blocked the filter.
4.0L gems pull out from a Disco or P38 was the traditional route. Thor never seemed to be universally loved. And you can refresh them yourself. The trouble is that by now the odds of buying a dog feel quite short and I'd be tempted to rebuild the existing and use something like a holly carb.
In addition might be the sender.
Plumb in an external mechanical gauge and that will eliminate or confirm you have a sender/gauge issue or something else.
I would have thought if the oil pump was the issue it wouldn’t build pressure on crank/start up.
If putting a 4 or 4.6 in (Gems, not Thor) then you either need to see it running or take a chance that it’ll also need work. Plus you have to arse about with a fair bit of stuff, even if using a carb.
But a classic with a 4.6 is quite quick!!
Plumb in an external mechanical gauge and that will eliminate or confirm you have a sender/gauge issue or something else.
I would have thought if the oil pump was the issue it wouldn’t build pressure on crank/start up.
If putting a 4 or 4.6 in (Gems, not Thor) then you either need to see it running or take a chance that it’ll also need work. Plus you have to arse about with a fair bit of stuff, even if using a carb.
But a classic with a 4.6 is quite quick!!
jon-yprpe said:
But a classic with a 4.6 is quite quick!!
it is!If you go that route though you can start to make choices - with mine we went with a cam that delivered torque at any point rather than out and out acceleration - gives you wafty power at any point which suits the nature of the car rather than trying to make it a sports car
Huntsman said:
Why not a Thor?
Land Rover man doing the brakes this week has a 4.0ltr TVR engine coming out of a 90 thats being converted to TD5. I can see that heading my way.
It seems harder to get chips etc with the Thor system than the Gems and various RV8 tuners favour Gems so my thinking has always been that it's better in the long run to use what the majority are happier fettling. When I was putting a layer engine into my 72 there were also some other things about the Thor that I can't remember but I arrived at the general conclusion a gems was going to be simpler. Others can probably debunk or expand on this as I've simply forgotten. Land Rover man doing the brakes this week has a 4.0ltr TVR engine coming out of a 90 thats being converted to TD5. I can see that heading my way.
Be wary of TVR engines in Rangies. You need to replace the cam as they deliver the power where you don't want it. Especially if you're going to be towing your need to think carefully about where you want the torque curve. The standard cam is actually pretty much ideal as it puts everything between 2 and 4. If mostly towing then arguably you want to go lower.
akirk said:
jon-yprpe said:
But a classic with a 4.6 is quite quick!!
it is!If you go that route though you can start to make choices - with mine we went with a cam that delivered torque at any point rather than out and out acceleration - gives you wafty power at any point which suits the nature of the car rather than trying to make it a sports car
I need to add more soundproofing.
Radiator was past its best… so didn’t make sense to try and flush and reuse
New one has gone on and been bled
My only question is, standing in front of the car on the RHS of the rad there is a hose that runs from top to bottom of the rad in a loop, it’s only function seems to be to house what I think is the temp sensor for the twin electric fans. Seems to me would make more sense to fit that somewhere else as the new rad came with blanking plugs, and do away with the otherwise pointless length of hose?
Currently just waiting for a correct size new alternator to be fitted and then hopefully that’s it
New one has gone on and been bled
My only question is, standing in front of the car on the RHS of the rad there is a hose that runs from top to bottom of the rad in a loop, it’s only function seems to be to house what I think is the temp sensor for the twin electric fans. Seems to me would make more sense to fit that somewhere else as the new rad came with blanking plugs, and do away with the otherwise pointless length of hose?
Currently just waiting for a correct size new alternator to be fitted and then hopefully that’s it
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