Emerald K6 setup and mapping help
Discussion
I have been asked if the cam timing is correct because I was curious why the new roller cam shunts a lot at sub 2000rpm compared to the old flat tappet cam I had before. I’m going to check the spec with V8D but I’m assuming both cams are similar.
Would cam timing make the engine run rougher or smoother at lower revs depending where it’s set?
Would cam timing make the engine run rougher or smoother at lower revs depending where it’s set?
Advancing the cam (assuming it's somewhere near right already for a good spread of power) traditionally helps the lower rev range and the light throttle manners, but (whilst there's a sweet spot for each install as regards the spread of power) it's generally accepted that advancing the cam benefits low rpm power at the expense of top end power ..
So whilst advancing the cam *might* bring some benefits for the lower revs, you might reasonably expect to lose some at the top end ...
So whilst advancing the cam *might* bring some benefits for the lower revs, you might reasonably expect to lose some at the top end ...
Quite correct.
I set my engine up first with the camshaft timing on the slightly advanced end of standard which gave a very smooth all-round performance envelope but slightly disappointing top end.
I retarded the camshaft by 4° and lost a little torque, gained a little bit of shunting at 1800 rpm but more importantly raised the peak power output at approximately 500 revs higher.
I set my engine up first with the camshaft timing on the slightly advanced end of standard which gave a very smooth all-round performance envelope but slightly disappointing top end.
I retarded the camshaft by 4° and lost a little torque, gained a little bit of shunting at 1800 rpm but more importantly raised the peak power output at approximately 500 revs higher.
I still have shunting between about 1200 and 2000rpm even after richening the mixture to around 12:1. The advance is 0 degrees, dare not go into Minus figures to protect the exhaust valves (thanks Joolz). I would prefer nice manners in the range 1200-2250 rpm rather than outright horsepower. How much of a job is it to change the cam timing?
Just copied and pasted the email thread below when the cam was specced with Woody at the wedgeshop and Rob from V8D.
Doesn't mean much to me, maybe you all will understand more!
Thanks for your help.
Andy,
Good choice! This should really work well with your motor.
The next steps would be for us to get you an invoice over. Can you please send your full address and phone number where you want the setup sent.
Thanks
On Fri, Jan 19, 2018 at 9:31 AM, Andy Elsey <ajelsey@btinternet.com> wrote:
Thanks Woody,
Lets go for your original choice. What is the next step to place the order?
Andy
Sent from my iPad
On 19 Jan 2018, at 14:22, Woody Cooper <woody@thewedgeshop.com> wrote:
Also in our Dyno testing we found the smaller Dur Camshaft in the big motors have trouble make power up top in the RPM band. Something like the 220 is what we would run in a 3.9-4.2 Fairly stock
On Fri, Jan 19, 2018 at 9:13 AM, Woody Cooper <woody@thewedgeshop.com> wrote:
We could go go 234-242 but my Minium choice for your motor would 242-242 LC 110 and still my first choice is my Original on a 110.
I have a TR7 V8 with a Nice custom built 10.1 comp.3.9 running a roller Cam that is 222-228 on a !C of 111. This is my Traveling car, i drive appox 7k mile a summer with this car.
Bad 8 had roller with the Spec's i sent you on a 108, now has a Flat tappet cam 254-250 on a 104 LC LOL of this is my HOT ROD
On Fri, Jan 19, 2018 at 8:48 AM, Andy Elsey <ajelsey@btinternet.com> wrote:
Hello Woody,
Can we go for the wider LCA please, please see reply from Rob the engine builder (V8 Developments) below.
Thanks
Regards
Andy Elsey
On 19 Jan 2018, at 11:47, V8Developments <v8developments@btconnect.com> wrote:
Hi Andy
I would definitely go with the wider lca, I am a little concerned with the duration, that is huge for a road car! Typically yours that is in there runs around 220, it will certainly make some big numbers lol!
Regards Rob
From: Andy Elsey [mailto:ajelsey@btinternet.com]
Sent: 18 January 2018 10:49
To: Rob Robertson
Subject: Fwd: Roller
Hello Rob,
See below, what would you advise?
Regards
Andy Elsey
Begin forwarded message:
From: Woody Cooper <woody@thewedgeshop.com>
Date: 17 January 2018 at 22:33:57 CET
To: Andy Elsey <ajelsey@btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Roller
Some Fuel injection system do not adapt to a lot of overlap because at idle it may be too rich for the system. So you can correct that by bringing the Lobe Center up say to a 110 instead of a 108. The motor still makes good power up top but maybe not as intense. The actual overlap is the 242-250 @.050. Hope this answers your ?
On Wed, Jan 17, 2018 at 3:48 AM, Andy Elsey <ajelsey@btinternet.com> wrote:
Hello Woody,
Can you explain please.
Regards
Andy Elsey
On 16 Jan 2018, at 17:26, Woody Cooper <woody@thewedgeshop.com> wrote:
Also the FI Injection may like the 110 more than the 108
On Tue, Jan 16, 2018 at 11:25 AM, Woody Cooper <woody@thewedgeshop.com> wrote:
Lift 544
Dur. 310/318
Dur @ .050 242/250
Lobe Center 110 or 108 for more high end and a little lopey idle
On Tue, Jan 16, 2018 at 5:15 AM, Andy Elsey <ajelsey@btinternet.com> wrote:
Hello Woody,
Engine size 5,200cc
Compression is 10.3
Valves are 1.83 inlets and 1.55 exhaust
fully ported with raised roofs on inlet and exhaust and welded floors on both.
Bespoke twin plenum, one per bank.
Twin large diameter throttle butterflies
Rod length is 6
Motec ecu mapped ignition and fuel injection.
Mostly road use with occasional track days
Safe rpm range would be 6700 rpm
Would prefer stable idle but wouldn’t mind having to raise idle rpm or retard ignition to smooth the idle out.
Thanks
Regards
Andy Elsey
On 10 Jan 2018, at 16:04, Woody Cooper <woody@thewedgeshop.com> wrote:
Hi Andy just got your message, sorry i don't have a good phone rate for oversea's calls.
I looked thru my e-mail and sorry i don't see any prior e-mails.
So id you could give some info on your motor i will put something together for you.
Size
Compression
Head work & Valve size
Rod lenght
Fuel system
Ignition
Type of driving
RPM Range
Idle Quality
--
Thank You
Woody Cooper
508-880-5448
www.thewedgeshop.com
Fast. British. Reliable.
<~WRD000.jpg> <~WRD000.jpg> <~WRD000.jpg> <~WRD000.jpg>
--
Thank You
Woody Cooper
508-880-5448
www.thewedgeshop.com
Fast. British. Reliable.
<~WRD000.jpg> <~WRD000.jpg> <~WRD000.jpg> <~WRD000.jpg>
Too much info Andy .. plus I don't think hardly anyone frequents the major mods subsection of the tvr section.
You would be much better off condensing the info into just the important bits and posting in the engines and drivetrains section and hope mignon picks up on it, but he's not an RV8 man per-se but certainly knows his engines.
You would be much better off condensing the info into just the important bits and posting in the engines and drivetrains section and hope mignon picks up on it, but he's not an RV8 man per-se but certainly knows his engines.
spitfire4v8 said:
Is it definitely a K6 and not a late K3 ? The K3 is an evolution of the last of the previous ECUs (the m3d range) but the K6 is completely different. As such you can't use a wiring diagram for a k3 on a k6 and vice versa. Especially the ignition drive 4 changed from pin 17 on k3 to pin 19 on k6. Pin 17 on the k6 is a user configurable output, so you might have something conflicting assigned to that in the config .
In some earlier ecus pin 17 can be a shift light output but also can go to earth with ignition on and engine stopped, because that's a one-time event at key-on then that could possibly cause a single once only coil firing if that's the case?
Does the engine run fine once it's fired up though ? That would suggest you've got the wiring actually correct.
Things to check would be
that you've actually got a k6 running from a k6 wiring layout, not some earlier combination
that there are no conflicts on any of the output pins
send me your map and configuration files, and i can have a look .. or I can send you a map and config from a K6 I've fitted here .. but make sure it is a K6.
Hi there was wondering when using pin 19 as ignition driver 4 does the shift light have to be disabled in the output section??In some earlier ecus pin 17 can be a shift light output but also can go to earth with ignition on and engine stopped, because that's a one-time event at key-on then that could possibly cause a single once only coil firing if that's the case?
Does the engine run fine once it's fired up though ? That would suggest you've got the wiring actually correct.
Things to check would be
that you've actually got a k6 running from a k6 wiring layout, not some earlier combination
that there are no conflicts on any of the output pins
send me your map and configuration files, and i can have a look .. or I can send you a map and config from a K6 I've fitted here .. but make sure it is a K6.
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