Latest Project: Matchbox 1/32 Bf-109E-3
Discussion
Red Firecracker said:
I took an alternative angle on paint chips when I did this Hunter;
I painted the silver first, then top coated and whilst the top coat was dry but not fully hardened, I stuck some Scotch magic tape (the opaque sellotape with a low take glue) along the leading edges and pulled it off revealing a paint chip-esq appearance (some would say).
Nice model, and effective camo too! TBH it was more the tiny scratches on the engine bay components I was thinking of for now. For the airframe I've heard of people using your method, but also sprinkling salt (or Marmite!) onto the wetted silver, then overspraying before dissolving the salt away with water.I painted the silver first, then top coated and whilst the top coat was dry but not fully hardened, I stuck some Scotch magic tape (the opaque sellotape with a low take glue) along the leading edges and pulled it off revealing a paint chip-esq appearance (some would say).
dr_gn said:
That looks great Skii : what is the difference between the citadel stuff, and say, Revell Aluminium?
Probably not a lot, but in truth I haven't used humbrol for many years - however Citadel mithril silver is fantastic in my opinion,so much so that many modellers opt to spray it on natural metal finishes with suprisingly good results, plus its water based, great for chipping effects. Skii said:
dr_gn said:
That looks great Skii : what is the difference between the citadel stuff, and say, Revell Aluminium?
Probably not a lot, but in truth I haven't used humbrol for many years - however Citadel mithril silver is fantastic in my opinion,so much so that many modellers opt to spray it on natural metal finishes with suprisingly good results, plus its water based, great for chipping effects. Bit more work last night.
Started on the bulkhead - added a scratch built hydraulic tank and lines, along with an electrical box, throttle linkage and an additional engine frame member. Did a bit more to the engine too - finally fitted the bearers and routed the wiring/piping around them. Also added part of the throttle linkage:
Needs some more pipe work, a wash, dry brushing and then overall matt varnish.
Started on the bulkhead - added a scratch built hydraulic tank and lines, along with an electrical box, throttle linkage and an additional engine frame member. Did a bit more to the engine too - finally fitted the bearers and routed the wiring/piping around them. Also added part of the throttle linkage:
Needs some more pipe work, a wash, dry brushing and then overall matt varnish.
Eric Mc said:
Looking excellent.
I've a bunch of 1/72 109s to do (Academy, Revell, Airfix).
I want to get back to 1/72 asap. Trouble is someone bought me a 1/48 Academy KV-107-II-5 "White Heron" for my birthday.I've a bunch of 1/72 109s to do (Academy, Revell, Airfix).
Yes...I wondered too, but apparently it's a license built Chinook. Nice enough model, will be built totally OOB, but I think it's time I chose a subject and scale for myself for a change!
dr_gn said:
Eric Mc said:
Looking excellent.
I've a bunch of 1/72 109s to do (Academy, Revell, Airfix).
I want to get back to 1/72 asap. Trouble is someone bought me a 1/48 Academy KV-107-II-5 "White Heron" for my birthday.I've a bunch of 1/72 109s to do (Academy, Revell, Airfix).
Yes...I wondered too, but apparently it's a license built Chinook. Nice enough model, will be built totally OOB, but I think it's time I chose a subject and scale for myself for a change!
The KV107 is not as big as the Chinook though the family resemblance is clear
The Airfix one I built made up into a very good model and I'm sure you will do it justice in 1/48
Wish I still got pressies like those
perdu said:
dr_gn said:
Eric Mc said:
Looking excellent.
I've a bunch of 1/72 109s to do (Academy, Revell, Airfix).
I want to get back to 1/72 asap. Trouble is someone bought me a 1/48 Academy KV-107-II-5 "White Heron" for my birthday.I've a bunch of 1/72 109s to do (Academy, Revell, Airfix).
Yes...I wondered too, but apparently it's a license built Chinook. Nice enough model, will be built totally OOB, but I think it's time I chose a subject and scale for myself for a change!
The KV107 is not as big as the Chinook though the family resemblance is clear
The Airfix one I built made up into a very good model and I'm sure you will do it justice in 1/48
Wish I still got pressies like those
Trying to align a collection of 8 bits of soldered together brass with 4 bits of cenented plastic that the brass wasn't designed to match up with is proving to be a jolly experience:
Especially when 3 of the bits of brass have to pivot on the other 5, by using hinge pins only 0.4mm in diameter:
In future I will stick to 1:72.
In future I will stick to 1:72.
In future I will stick to 1:72.
In future I will stick to 1:72.
In future I will stick to 1:72.
In future I will stick to 1:72.
In future I will stick to 1:72....
Especially when 3 of the bits of brass have to pivot on the other 5, by using hinge pins only 0.4mm in diameter:
In future I will stick to 1:72.
In future I will stick to 1:72.
In future I will stick to 1:72.
In future I will stick to 1:72.
In future I will stick to 1:72.
In future I will stick to 1:72.
In future I will stick to 1:72....
perdu said:
and the pain is always repaid a zillion times by the satisfaction
Well that's what I'm hoping...but you never know do you? Especially when there's been a significant amount of scratch building. I guess it will look better all one colour!Any tips for thinning the removable panels? I thought of chamfering the edges at a shallow angle down to 0.5mm or so, and leaving the bulk of the covers original thickness.
Cheers,
dr_gn said:
perdu said:
and the pain is always repaid a zillion times by the satisfaction
Well that's what I'm hoping...but you never know do you? Especially when there's been a significant amount of scratch building. I guess it will look better all one colour!Any tips for thinning the removable panels? I thought of chamfering the edges at a shallow angle down to 0.5mm or so, and leaving the bulk of the covers original thickness.
Cheers,
Yertis said:
dr_gn said:
perdu said:
and the pain is always repaid a zillion times by the satisfaction
Well that's what I'm hoping...but you never know do you? Especially when there's been a significant amount of scratch building. I guess it will look better all one colour!Any tips for thinning the removable panels? I thought of chamfering the edges at a shallow angle down to 0.5mm or so, and leaving the bulk of the covers original thickness.
Cheers,
dr_gn said:
Nick_F said:
Thin the edges back with a Dremel or similar - scale thickness everywhere is going to be a chore to do by hand.
Swiss files and sanding sticks I think. A Dremel is wayyyy too risky for that job. Things go wrong very quickly when grinding plastic at 7500rpm.but I found that judicious use of a number two Swann Morton works very well on panel edges like those
I saw in an earlier picture that you do have a Swann-M knife
I used mine (Original brass and the orange plastic bodied tool) almost exclusively and most of my edge "developing" was done with it
I never quite developed a love for my Exacto scalpel tool, I found it less manoueverable
Dremels? OK but a tad fierce for polystyrene
I had a little motor driven tool that worked far less angrily than a Dremel, but still would advise knife work for this task
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