Modelling tips

[dr_gn]

Thanks for the kind words RM!

I try to group all same-colour parts and sub-assemblies together and deal with them all at once. That way they all end up looking the same. With the MP4/6, it's such a huge task that I'm working on whatever I feel like at the time, and not worrying too much about grouping parts. I am however carefully noting any brands and mixes of paint for various things so that I can get subsequent similar parts the same.

I don't usually paint parts on the sprues becasue it makes test assembly impossible, and you have to touch-up the bits where the sprue gates are. Tricky with weathered parts.

Back when I was young I would build a model aircraft in an evening - the whole lot. I was very impatient. These days I find that if I rush, I invariably end up re-doing things. My modelling motto now is "let stuff dry", whether it's paint, glue or filler. I use Milliput and Mr. Surfacer fillers a lot, and they take 24 hours to fully harden. Plus with other commitments I don't get much time for modelling anyway.

[fourwheelsteer]

One thing I've discovered, having recently got back into 1:24 scale plastic car kits, is the value of test-fitting parts and sub-assemblies.

I nearly came a cropper with a Tamiya Alpine A110, which I started roughly 15 years ago. The interior tub and dashboard have to be assembled accurately otherwise the body won't fit. Unfortunately I hadn't got the dashboard in level so the thing wouldn't go together. Fortunately the old glue didn't take much persuading to come apart and it should only take a bit of sanding and cleaning to go back together correctly.

[dr_gn]

fourwheelsteer said:

One thing I've discovered, having recently got back into 1:24 scale plastic car kits, is the value of test-fitting parts and sub-assemblies.

I nearly came a cropper with a Tamiya Alpine A110, which I started roughly 15 years ago. The interior tub and dashboard have to be assembled accurately otherwise the body won't fit. Unfortunately I hadn't got the dashboard in level so the thing wouldn't go together. Fortunately the old glue didn't take much persuading to come apart and it should only take a bit of sanding and cleaning to go back together correctly.

I use PVA for pretty much everything that's not structural these days. It's more than strong enough for models, dries clear, and is easily re-dissolved with water if you make a mistake (assuming you get the correct type).

[robemcdonald]

rookie question:

I struggle to get a uniform finish when using future as a gloss coat. Its fine for before decals but no good for a car model.

I must be getting the basics wrong

I run a 0.25 nozzle on my airbrush. What pressure should i be using? how far from the model? Should i be thinning the polish down? if so what with?

Like I said: Basic stuff.

Thanks in advance.

Rob

[dr_gn]

robemcdonald said:

rookie question:

I struggle to get a uniform finish when using future as a gloss coat. Its fine for before decals but no good for a car model.

I must be getting the basics wrong

I run a 0.25 nozzle on my airbrush. What pressure should i be using? how far from the model? Should i be thinning the polish down? if so what with?

Like I said: Basic stuff.

Thanks in advance.

Rob

I'd never use it a final gloss coat - it's too thin. I've only really done two gloss coats:

The XJR-9LM I used Tamiya Gloss, but I've heard it's pretty "hot", and can damage decals.

The MP4/6 was 2K Clear - beautiful finish and easy to apply, but could kill you if you don't use the right PPE.

I don't really know what I'd use next time TBH. Maybe Mr.Hobby Acrylic Clear or something like that. Halfords do a spray can clear which might be an option through the airbrush.

[smifffymoto]

When using poly cement how do stop the melted look on very small/fine pieces like tank aerials and “rope”?
Even the smallest amount makes it look a bugger.

[dr_gn]

smifffymoto said:

When using poly cement how do stop the melted look on very small/fine pieces like tank aerials and “rope”?
Even the smallest amount makes it look a bugger.

Use PVA not poly cement on small, non-structural parts. You can dilute it with water and wick it round small surface-mounted parts if necessary with a brush. Once fully set it's more than strong enough (and dries clear). Make sure you can hold the parts in place for at least an hour after applying - it has zero tack.

[Lynchie999]

... anyone built the lotus 49b 1/20 Ebbro model ?

Really struggling with the rear suspension and transmission assembly... doesn't slot together very well ... 😐

[Drawweight]

Is there a brush on lacquer I can use to protect decals.

I’m painting using a mixture of brush and rattle cans.

When I put decals on the ideal way is a coat of lacquer to protect them but on a small single decal a rattle can lacquer would basically cover half the model.

Is there a product I can brush on in a limited area?

[WinstonR]

First timer here with an Aoshima 1/24 Veilside Skyline. I need a multitude of tools and I see various tool kits available on Amazon of suggestive quality. Just wondering where everyone gets their tools from and should I get each individually or as a tool kit.

[Gary29]

WinstonR said:

First timer here with an Aoshima 1/24 Veilside Skyline. I need a multitude of tools and I see various tool kits available on Amazon of suggestive quality. Just wondering where everyone gets their tools from and should I get each individually or as a tool kit.

Most of us will have built up a tool catalogue over time I would guess, but as a complete beginner starting out, a tool kit with all the basics is a good starting point, cheaper that way, especially if you deicde to ditch the hobby at a later date, but if you really get the bug, you will understand if any tools are letting you down due to quality and can invest in better over time.

[Prolex-UK]

WinstonR said:

First timer here with an Aoshima 1/24 Veilside Skyline. I need a multitude of tools and I see various tool kits available on Amazon of suggestive quality. Just wondering where everyone gets their tools from and should I get each individually or as a tool kit.

Decent sprue cutters are a must.

I would get stuff as you need it

Also decent sanding kits

mid range airbrush ?

[WinstonR]

Thanks both. Won't bother with an airbrush at this stage. Any good sites for getting tools or just Amazon?

[spitfire-ian]

I bought this little set when starting out with modelling again.

https://www.humbrol.com/uk-en/shop/accessories/sma...

[Jader1973]

Does anyone have any tips on weathering (specifically faded paint) using oils? I've watched a couple of videos on YouTube and it looks fairly straightforward - dab on a lighter shade using oils, mottle it using a sponge dipped in mineral spirit, and finally clear coat to seal it all. Is it really that simple?

The base coat is Tamiya TS Spray - is there a risk of damaging it with the mineral spirits?

Also, are thinned oils good for panel lines? I've tried using thinned Tamiya acrylics and the have a tendency to pool in some spots and not run down the line - if I thin it more they end up to watery and aren't dark enough when they dry!

Thanks

[Prolex-UK]

Jader1973 said:

Does anyone have any tips on weathering (specifically faded paint) using oils? I've watched a couple of videos on YouTube and it looks fairly straightforward - dab on a lighter shade using oils, mottle it using a sponge dipped in mineral spirit, and finally clear coat to seal it all. Is it really that simple?

The base coat is Tamiya TS Spray - is there a risk of damaging it with the mineral spirits?

Also, are thinned oils good for panel lines? I've tried using thinned Tamiya acrylics and the have a tendency to pool in some spots and not run down the line - if I thin it more they end up to watery and aren't dark enough when they dry!

Thanks

I always apply a coat of varnish from gallaria before weathering

[dr_gn]

Jader1973 said:

Does anyone have any tips on weathering (specifically faded paint) using oils? I've watched a couple of videos on YouTube and it looks fairly straightforward - dab on a lighter shade using oils, mottle it using a sponge dipped in mineral spirit, and finally clear coat to seal it all. Is it really that simple?

The base coat is Tamiya TS Spray - is there a risk of damaging it with the mineral spirits?

Also, are thinned oils good for panel lines? I've tried using thinned Tamiya acrylics and the have a tendency to pool in some spots and not run down the line - if I thin it more they end up to watery and aren't dark enough when they dry!

Thanks

I've never tried using oils for fading effects. Then again my weathering techniques are very limited. To get some contrast (in order to avoid the toy like continuous tone on models), I use dark pre-shading of the panel lines, which by default gives darker panel outlines and lighter centres (and vice-versa on dark panels with light pre-shading).

In addition to this, the other very simple thing you can do is selectively mask random panels and paint them with base colour plus a tiny bit of white or black, to give a subtle patchwork effect. Easy to overdo it though.

I've not had any luck with oil paint washes, but many seem to have no issue. My current favourite is the Tamiya Dark and Grey enamel washes, which come in a small square bottle with a fine brush integral with the cap. I used to get a lot of graining effect with washes, but thinning them with enamel thinners seems to reduce the effect. You can build up definition by adding more once the initial lines are dry if necessary.

As Prolex says, it's good practice to seal the surface with a gloss varnish before doing a wash, or applying oils. I use Klear, because it is very thin, dries rapidly, preserves surface detail, and doesn't seem to react with anything. Always use a dissimilar wash to the base coating, eg use an enamel wash over an acrylic base. That way you don't risk damaging the base.

I've never tried applying anything over a TS base coat without sealing it first, so I wouldn't know. As with any of the above, try on some scrap plastic first.

[Jader1973]

Thanks for the advice and suggestions. I didn't know Tamiya did washes, I'll look out for them.

[dr_gn]

Jader1973 said:

Thanks for the advice and suggestions. I didn't know Tamiya did washes, I'll look out for them.

Like most Tamiya products, they just "work". I've got some unbranded enamel thinners from a local model shop to thin them.

https://www.tamiya.com/english/products/87131_133p...

I got dark brown and grey - you can mix pretty much any useful shade with those two.

Black is very harsh, I've never used a pure black wash.

[r159]

WinstonR said:

Thanks both. Won't bother with an airbrush at this stage. Any good sites for getting tools or just Amazon?

In the last week I’ve got a couple of bits which are very good and great value at less than £20 to your door.

Tamiya painting stand (which is two separate stands in one box)

Mr Hobby single sided nipper - this thing has amazing cutting ability like a red hot knife through butter. Best tool I’ve got.

https://www.gforcemodels.co.uk/trumpeter-tools-hig... Arrived within 3 days.

You can get it even cheaper from creative models eBay site (I have used them in the past and are spot on too).

Www.Modelsforsale.co.uk are great for everything

Weylandgames on eBay were very quick delivery when I got some bits from them last week.

I’ve used www.modellingtools.co.uk a few times, again very good.

There are loads of tool reviews on YouTube, Flory do some good vids and make good sanders amongst other things.