tamiya motors...........

[big.eck]

thanks for all the info/tips/advice guys . much appricated

i'm looking into up rating all the suspention and gears/shafts . as for the esc , i'm not going to fit a programeable one as i know nothing what so ever about them , so i've fount this on ebay instead

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/V16-Digital-Speed-Controller...

any thoughts ? mind i've got a rx-540 vz technigold motor to play with lol.....

[Roop]

Sorry, but jesus guys you're way out here. First off, Technigold is the wrong choice (sorry again). They were discontinued over 10 years ago and brushes are virtually impossible to find. Provided it's in good nick, you could keep it on the shelf or sell it on to fun another motor. Fine for an occasional vintage runner but that's your lot.

Forget brushless and hot motors in the chassis you have. The TA-02SW benefits hugely from a speed tuned gear set - that's your first port of call as it's massively undergeared in standard form. Then, I'd recommend putting in a Tamiya Super Stock RZ. Huge torque (500gcm) yet a decent top end. Fully rebuildable with standard laydown brushes. I have several of these motors and can vouch for them being st-hot.

ESC-wise, something like an Mtroniks Viper RV15 would be fine. Gives you scope to upgrade the motor at a later date if you want (15t limit). Plus it's fully waterproof, failsafed and with absolute over current protection and such, you'd be a muppet if you managed to blow it up.

Happy to answer any queries you have. Apologies if this counters a lot of what's said above, but hopefully it's a bit more sound.

PS: I've two TA-02SW's here with the Taisan Starcard 996 GT2 shells on

[big.eck]

also , on the box it says i can rotate the brushes , is this like advancing the timing on a car ? thanks again.......

[Roop]

big.eck said:

also , on the box it says i can rotate the brushes , is this like advancing the timing on a car ? thanks again.......

Yes, exactly, but trust me. Ditch the RX540-VZ...!

[big.eck]

Roop said:

big.eck said:

also , on the box it says i can rotate the brushes , is this like advancing the timing on a car ? thanks again.......

Yes, exactly, but trust me. Ditch the RX540-VZ...!

but i've just bought it ? and 2 sets of brand new brushes lol (ebay lol)

i also have the 2 tools to change the brushes....

Edited by big.eck on Thursday 23 October 19:29

[Roop]

big.eck said:

Roop said:

big.eck said:

also , on the box it says i can rotate the brushes , is this like advancing the timing on a car ? thanks again.......

Yes, exactly, but trust me. Ditch the RX540-VZ...!

but i've just bought it ? and 2 sets of brand new brushes lol (ebay lol)

In their day they were a good motor (I have three of them myself as part of a collection of 15 or so classic Tamiya motors), but nowadays, unless you got a brand new one, the comm will be worn and need a cut, plus new brushes, the latter not being that cheap because of rarity.

Instead, £20-£25 or so will get you a more modern, more efficient Super Stock RZ that has more torque and more rpm for less current and brushes are about £2.50 a pair.

The Technigold is a lovely motor, but very disadvantaged these days.

Before either of the above though - Speed Tuned gear set.

Finally don't go mad spending £'s on the car unless you absolutely have to have that chassis. The cheapest of the modern Tamiya touring car chassis (TT-01) will kick it's arse every which way to next Tuesday. TA-02SW is a classic bit of Tamiya though for sure. Pic of one of mine below - New built and never run :

[Roop]

big.eck said:

i also have the 2 tools to change the brushes....

If it's used, it'll need the commutator cutting. For this, you will need a comm lathe. Your local model shop should be able to do if for you for £5-10 or so. You can buy a lathe yourself if you are serious - approx £200, but a waste unless you are running a lot or racing.

ETA: I am not trying to piss on your parade, but I don't want you spunking a load of cash on a 12 year old chassis when there's better ways of doing things for less money. I got my first Tamiya in 1986 and have had over a hundred individual Tamiyas since then - still got 60 or so. Been r/c racing since then too so reasonably qualified to comment, I hope...

Edited by Roop on Thursday 23 October 19:44

[DucatiGary]

Simond001 said:

Bet that drifts nicely, a righthandful on loose surfaces i would imagine

yeah its quite fun once you get the transmitter set up right with it

[Juicetin1]

I can vouch for the Tamiya Superstock RZ 23turn motor, very quick and I just picked a new one up for £8 on Ebay ! Too hot for my TEU101BK speed controller though, I need to get an uprated one.

[tuscan_al]

Roop said:

big.eck said:

i also have the 2 tools to change the brushes....

If it's used, it'll need the commutator cutting. For this, you will need a comm lathe. Your local model shop should be able to do if for you for £5-10 or so. You can buy a lathe yourself if you are serious - approx £200, but a waste unless you are running a lot or racing.

ETA: I am not trying to piss on your parade, but I don't want you spunking a load of cash on a 12 year old chassis when there's better ways of doing things for less money. I got my first Tamiya in 1986 and have had over a hundred individual Tamiyas since then - still got 60 or so. Been r/c racing since then too so reasonably qualified to comment, I hope...

Edited by Roop on Thursday 23 October 19:44

Can you explain more about the commutator skimming? I have a rz540 and 959 im rebuilding, but didnt think there was much I needed to do with the motor? It never got too much use as a kid, batteries always seemed to die out too quick, and had a Bush Devil for bashing around with

[Mikey G]

tuscan_al said:

Roop said:

big.eck said:

i also have the 2 tools to change the brushes....

If it's used, it'll need the commutator cutting. For this, you will need a comm lathe. Your local model shop should be able to do if for you for £5-10 or so. You can buy a lathe yourself if you are serious - approx £200, but a waste unless you are running a lot or racing.

ETA: I am not trying to piss on your parade, but I don't want you spunking a load of cash on a 12 year old chassis when there's better ways of doing things for less money. I got my first Tamiya in 1986 and have had over a hundred individual Tamiyas since then - still got 60 or so. Been r/c racing since then too so reasonably qualified to comment, I hope...

Edited by Roop on Thursday 23 October 19:44

Can you explain more about the commutator skimming? I have a rz540 and 959 im rebuilding, but didnt think there was much I needed to do with the motor? It never got too much use as a kid, batteries always seemed to die out too quick, and had a Bush Devil for bashing around with

Over a period of time the commutator wears, either by scoring or just goes out of shape. This can lead to bad contact and/or high wear on the brushes which reduces performance. Skimming the commutator brings it back to life again but they can only go down so far before the armature is then scrap.

[Roop]

Mikey G said:

tuscan_al said:

Can you explain more about the commutator skimming? I have a rz540 and 959 im rebuilding, but didnt think there was much I needed to do with the motor? It never got too much use as a kid, batteries always seemed to die out too quick, and had a Bush Devil for bashing around with

Over a period of time the commutator wears, either by scoring or just goes out of shape. This can lead to bad contact and/or high wear on the brushes which reduces performance. Skimming the commutator brings it back to life again but they can only go down so far before the armature is then scrap.

Exactly that. A quality motor if used properly (ie: not over geared, laboured, overheated, allowed to get dirty / wet etc) will allow you to have at least 10 comm skims, if not double that. Given non-racing use (ie: when stuff has to be perfect) this will give your motor a life of many many years at top performance. You MUST replace the brushes after a skim though.

[big.eck]

Roop said:

big.eck said:

Roop said:

big.eck said:

also , on the box it says i can rotate the brushes , is this like advancing the timing on a car ? thanks again.......

Yes, exactly, but trust me. Ditch the RX540-VZ...!

but i've just bought it ? and 2 sets of brand new brushes lol (ebay lol)

In their day they were a good motor (I have three of them myself as part of a collection of 15 or so classic Tamiya motors), but nowadays, unless you got a brand new one, the comm will be worn and need a cut, plus new brushes, the latter not being that cheap because of rarity.

Instead, £20-£25 or so will get you a more modern, more efficient Super Stock RZ that has more torque and more rpm for less current and brushes are about £2.50 a pair.

The Technigold is a lovely motor, but very disadvantaged these days.

Before either of the above though - Speed Tuned gear set.

Finally don't go mad spending £'s on the car unless you absolutely have to have that chassis. The cheapest of the modern Tamiya touring car chassis (TT-01) will kick it's arse every which way to next Tuesday. TA-02SW is a classic bit of Tamiya though for sure. Pic of one of mine below - New built and never run :

thats cracking . i broke the shell for mine a while ago but i've got a merc190e shell and a mk1 escort one now . i've just bought some alloy rear arms and alloy shockers from ebay . basicly i want a period car with some trick bits and some speed lol .

Edited by big.eck on Sunday 26th October 11:36

[big.eck]

tuscan_al said:

Roop said:

big.eck said:

i also have the 2 tools to change the brushes....

If it's used, it'll need the commutator cutting. For this, you will need a comm lathe. Your local model shop should be able to do if for you for £5-10 or so. You can buy a lathe yourself if you are serious - approx £200, but a waste unless you are running a lot or racing.

ETA: I am not trying to piss on your parade, but I don't want you spunking a load of cash on a 12 year old chassis when there's better ways of doing things for less money. I got my first Tamiya in 1986 and have had over a hundred individual Tamiyas since then - still got 60 or so. Been r/c racing since then too so reasonably qualified to comment, I hope...

Edited by Roop on Thursday 23 October 19:44

Can you explain more about the commutator skimming? I have a rz540 and 959 im rebuilding, but didnt think there was much I needed to do with the motor? It never got too much use as a kid, batteries always seemed to die out too quick, and had a Bush Devil for bashing around with

heres a link to ebay for the brushes and tools to change them yourself.....

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Tamiya-50312-RX-540VZ-Techni...

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Tamiya-6805002-RX-540VZ-Tech...

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Tamiya-6805001-RX-540VZ-Tech...

then you'll have to find someone with a laith........good luck.....

[big.eck]

i forgot to say , i bought an esc yesterday , it's a ansmann racing elite v/r 12t .

seems to be fine , cars alot faster now and i've swaped some of the plastic gears (from thr rear diff) to metal ones from a manta ray as they are identical lol . it's getting like scrapheap challenge in my house just now.......

it's going to be a long project so i'll get a pic up after i've cleaned it later on today.....again i can't thank you guys enough for your advice , cheers guys.......

[DucatiGary]

a lathe you say?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&am...

[Roop]

DucatiGary said:

a lathe you say?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&am...

Good price BUT you really do need the diamond bit (as opposed to the carbide one that comes as standard). Factor in another £30 - £50 for a new bit. Still a good deal as they are well north of a one-er new. Plus a 4-cell battery or 5v PSU to run it.

[johno911]

hey everyone just join up to piston heads cuz i really need to ask a question about the tamiya taisan porsche 911 GT2.

i have a machanical speed controller with an acoms receiver and i am thinking about getting an ESC. everything is standard on the car but dont no what the motor is as it is not labled up and on my building instructions i can't see it labled on ther either. I found the tamiya TEU 101BK ESC which one of its spec is 'Max. continuous current (FET spec): Forward 60A, Reverse 60A' and i found a futaba MC330 ESC (13+ Turns) that is 'Max. continuous current (FET spec): Forward 200A, Reverse 100A',i am not sure what the difference is, does it just run faster with higher 'A' also i'm not sure what the value of turns mean and how many turns the tamiya is. i dont no which one is best to get as i only use it for fun so dont want to spend loads but dont want to make it run slower than it would with the mechanical speed controller.

[Roop]

johno911 said:

hey everyone just join up to piston heads cuz i really need to ask a question about the tamiya taisan porsche 911 GT2.

i have a machanical speed controller with an acoms receiver and i am thinking about getting an ESC. everything is standard on the car but dont no what the motor is as it is not labled up and on my building instructions i can't see it labled on ther either. I found the tamiya TEU 101BK ESC which one of its spec is 'Max. continuous current (FET spec): Forward 60A, Reverse 60A' and i found a futaba MC330 ESC (13+ Turns) that is 'Max. continuous current (FET spec): Forward 200A, Reverse 100A',i am not sure what the difference is, does it just run faster with higher 'A' also i'm not sure what the value of turns mean and how many turns the tamiya is. i dont no which one is best to get as i only use it for fun so dont want to spend loads but dont want to make it run slower than it would with the mechanical speed controller.

With a standard motor (like the one depicted in the photo of my car above) the TEU-101BK is fine. It'll also allow a moderate upgrade to a Sport Tuned otor but that's about all it will handle.

The Futaba you mention will run down to 15 turns which is a much hotter motor. As recommended above a 23t Super Stock RZ plus a speed tuned gear set is a good setup for these cars. You might *just* get away with a TEU-101BK on this motor but I wouldn't risk it. It won't blow up or anything but will keep cutting out which is annoying. Before all of that though make sure you have full ballraced the car (full set of ballraces should cost £20 tops from eBay).

[thehos]

Hi, just skipped over the replies, and maybe its been said already?

Dont use the technigold they came standard on a few old tamiya models such as bigwig, avante etc, they are only good enough for a collector to complete a model, I did on my bigwig.

I've raced cars in the eighties then stopped, (real cars and girls), now back into it and race a cat 3000, forget brushed motors, got to be skimmed every 4 or 5 runs, new brushes etc.

I've got a novak 5.5 brushless esc and motor than i havent done anything to it for...., well my 3rd season starts in april, you dont need to get as "good" as this, a few guys I've spoke to on forums have bought a ezrun, put it in on ebay, and found it good for a budget esc and motor fit it and forget it!


Sorry for my life story, Allen, feel free to ask anything else

Edited by thehos on Wednesday 11th February 20:17