Modelling tips
Discussion
Since this thread is intended to pass on tips, I thought I would add one.
The other night I needed some clear blue paint and I found an old jar of Aqueous (Gunze Sangyo) acrylic that I bought yonks ago. I tried to open it but the lid was stuck (very) fast and wouldn't budge.
I remembered reading that hot water may be the answer so I placed the jar upside down into a small bowl and poured boiled water up to the edge of the lid.
Five minutes later and the plastic lid turned with an easy twist!
The paint was as good as new so don't throw old acrylic paints away without trying this.
The other night I needed some clear blue paint and I found an old jar of Aqueous (Gunze Sangyo) acrylic that I bought yonks ago. I tried to open it but the lid was stuck (very) fast and wouldn't budge.
I remembered reading that hot water may be the answer so I placed the jar upside down into a small bowl and poured boiled water up to the edge of the lid.
Five minutes later and the plastic lid turned with an easy twist!
The paint was as good as new so don't throw old acrylic paints away without trying this.
Oh, and whilst I'm at it.. the best super glue (Cyanoacrylate) that I've used is this: http://zantemodelism.com/product_info.php?cPath=79...
and my tip is to keep it in your fridge between applications as it will last much longer .
and my tip is to keep it in your fridge between applications as it will last much longer .
Does anyone have any tips with regards to applying decals? Mine always seem to not stick properly and half of the time will come off if you touch them. Also they look crap because they don't seem to adhere to the surface so they're not see-thru.
I'm sure they never used to be this bad when I was a kid.
I'm sure they never used to be this bad when I was a kid.
probedb said:
Does anyone have any tips with regards to applying decals? Mine always seem to not stick properly and half of the time will come off if you touch them. Also they look crap because they don't seem to adhere to the surface so they're not see-thru.
I'm sure they never used to be this bad when I was a kid.
Here are some tips that I use;I'm sure they never used to be this bad when I was a kid.
- Make sure you are applying them to a gloss surface, which aids adhesion and avoids ghosting/silvering. If you require a matt finish, apply it after the decals have been applied.
- I tend to use warm water, in a saucer, and then put a sponge in the water. The decal then sits on top of the sponge (you may wish to immerse the sponge in wet water as well). This stops the decal floating away.
- The use of Micro-Set and Micro-Solv can be very beneficial.
- A drop of Johnsons Klear in the water also helps avoid silvering (but is less helpful if using the sponge method).
Red Firecracker said:
Here are some tips that I use;
Cheers, will give them a go. I also find that some companies seem to put a lot of extra decal material around the decal which is a pain sometimes.- Make sure you are applying them to a gloss surface, which aids adhesion and avoids ghosting/silvering. If you require a matt finish, apply it after the decals have been applied.
- I tend to use warm water, in a saucer, and then put a sponge in the water. The decal then sits on top of the sponge (you may wish to immerse the sponge in wet water as well). This stops the decal floating away.
- The use of Micro-Set and Micro-Solv can be very beneficial.
- A drop of Johnsons Klear in the water also helps avoid silvering (but is less helpful if using the sponge method).
Probe, use small nail scissors to cut away excess decal film in those instances.
Also, I tend to use a wet paint brush to lift then move the transfer into place after wetting it. Before that, I'll wet the surface it's to be applied to with that brush- then press into place using a small piece of foam sponge.
Also, I tend to use a wet paint brush to lift then move the transfer into place after wetting it. Before that, I'll wet the surface it's to be applied to with that brush- then press into place using a small piece of foam sponge.
kenny Chim 4 said:
Probe, use small nail scissors to cut away excess decal film in those instances.
Also, I tend to use a wet paint brush to lift then move the transfer into place after wetting it. Before that, I'll wet the surface it's to be applied to with that brush- then press into place using a small piece of foam sponge.
Cheers The sponge sounds good as I always seem to get large droplets of water. I've managed to lose some of the very small decals too, they magically disappear!Also, I tend to use a wet paint brush to lift then move the transfer into place after wetting it. Before that, I'll wet the surface it's to be applied to with that brush- then press into place using a small piece of foam sponge.
kenny Chim 4 said:
... use small nail scissors to cut away excess decal film ...
Do not do this! It will give you a hard edge that will always be visible whatever you do.If you have applied the decal properly, the clear film round it will be rendered invisible.
This is my process:
1 - primer
2 - colour coat(s)
3 - gloss lacquer
4 - apply decals
5 - more gloss lacquer
6 - (if required) matt lacquer
Evangelion said:
kenny Chim 4 said:
... use small nail scissors to cut away excess decal film ...
Do not do this! It will give you a hard edge that will always be visible whatever you do.If you have applied the decal properly, the clear film round it will be rendered invisible.
This is my process:
1 - primer
2 - colour coat(s)
3 - gloss lacquer
4 - apply decals
5 - more gloss lacquer
6 - (if required) matt lacquer
In certain positions, excess carrier film can prevent the decal from being positioned at all (for example if the decal fits to an adjacent raised profile, or if it's a stencil decal applied to a compund curved surface.
I would definitely add decal softening solution to the list as well.
dr_gn said:
tvrtuscans said:
I have loads of tins of old humbrol enamel paints in my garage...have had them for decades...should I just bin them all and start afresh? If so what paints should I start to purchase?
Bin them and start again would be my advice.tvrtuscans said:
dr_gn said:
tvrtuscans said:
I have loads of tins of old humbrol enamel paints in my garage...have had them for decades...should I just bin them all and start afresh? If so what paints should I start to purchase?
Bin them and start again would be my advice.In fact it might just be worth opening the enamels you saved and testing them - they might be OK for detail work. With the old enamels I had, they never seemed to dry, and that's the last thing you want on a model you've spent hours building.
Whatever you decide (and something I forgot to mention previously) is that you should always use a decent respirator in a well ventilated place when spraying no matter what type of paint you use - it's important!
dr_gn said:
tvrtuscans said:
dr_gn said:
tvrtuscans said:
I have loads of tins of old humbrol enamel paints in my garage...have had them for decades...should I just bin them all and start afresh? If so what paints should I start to purchase?
Bin them and start again would be my advice.In fact it might just be worth opening the enamels you saved and testing them - they might be OK for detail work. With the old enamels I had, they never seemed to dry, and that's the last thing you want on a model you've spent hours building.
Whatever you decide (and something I forgot to mention previously) is that you should always use a decent respirator in a well ventilated place when spraying no matter what type of paint you use - it's important!
dr_gn said:
Evangelion said:
kenny Chim 4 said:
... use small nail scissors to cut away excess decal film ...
Do not do this! It will give you a hard edge that will always be visible whatever you do.If you have applied the decal properly, the clear film round it will be rendered invisible.
This is my process:
1 - primer
2 - colour coat(s)
3 - gloss lacquer
4 - apply decals
5 - more gloss lacquer
6 - (if required) matt lacquer
In certain positions, excess carrier film can prevent the decal from being positioned at all (for example if the decal fits to an adjacent raised profile, or if it's a stencil decal applied to a compund curved surface.
I would definitely add decal softening solution to the list as well.
As the decal dries it will wringkle alarmingly, but it will dry smooth and more importantly will be drawn into panel lines and look painted on.
Coat the area in Klear to seal and then airbrush the satin or matt laquer over the top.
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