Airfix 1:72 Gloster Gladiator
Discussion
iiyama said:
Yeah, shame it's £4 dearer than I paid last week for mine. I'll get one from my other LHS and avoid postage.Anyway, back to the build thread, sadly on closer inspection, parts of the lower wing (near the struts) and the cowling have also been dissolved by the paint. No idea what's gone on there - the F-84 I did in exactly the same way was perfect.
Bottom line is that I've salvaged the engine, the exhaust part of the Townend ring, cockpit interior and tailwheel, but unfortunately the rest is in the bin. some you win, some you lose.
I'll get another one from somewhere, because it's a lovely kit, and post some pictures when it's finished. Rest assured I won't be using Alclad next time, but I'm determined to crack the aluminium finish one way or another.
Eric Mc said:
That's a real shame.
I want to try Xtracolour High Speed Silver on something soon. Although it's more a 1950s colour - do you think it would have the right sheen for a pre-war biplane?
I wouldn't know the difference TBH - I thought it was the same thing.I want to try Xtracolour High Speed Silver on something soon. Although it's more a 1950s colour - do you think it would have the right sheen for a pre-war biplane?
I've just tried an experiment with Alclad, sprayed onto an ancient bit of a Revell Lightning. I used it over Tamiya primer, and on the bare plastic, and either way it's fine so far. I'll leave it a couple of days and see what happens.
I wonder if the rather soft Airfix Plastic doesn't like being near Alclad? The surface turned into a maze of tiny squiggly ridges.
Yes, it's shame to have lost all that time and effort, but I've not lost a kit for years - so my luck was due to run out!
That is a real sod, having that happen so close to "home" dr_gn
The Gladiator was looking very nice too
I bought a medium size bottle of Vallejo silver plate when I was restarting the hobby a couple of years ago, I'm thinking of using it on a Hasegawa/Frog Lightning F6 in NM, anyone tried it?
It seems to be an alcohol based finish, I wonder what to undercoat it with...
or whether to?
The Gladiator was looking very nice too
I bought a medium size bottle of Vallejo silver plate when I was restarting the hobby a couple of years ago, I'm thinking of using it on a Hasegawa/Frog Lightning F6 in NM, anyone tried it?
It seems to be an alcohol based finish, I wonder what to undercoat it with...
or whether to?
perdu said:
That is a real sod, having that happen so close to "home" dr_gn
The Gladiator was looking very nice too
I bought a medium size bottle of Vallejo silver plate when I was restarting the hobby a couple of years ago, I'm thinking of using it on a Hasegawa/Frog Lightning F6 in NM, anyone tried it?
It seems to be an alcohol based finish, I wonder what to undercoat it with...
or whether to?
Dunno. The alclad, on the Lightning and F-84 gave a pretty much perfect smooth finish. when I get the new Gladiator I might spray some on some sprue and see what happens.The Gladiator was looking very nice too
I bought a medium size bottle of Vallejo silver plate when I was restarting the hobby a couple of years ago, I'm thinking of using it on a Hasegawa/Frog Lightning F6 in NM, anyone tried it?
It seems to be an alcohol based finish, I wonder what to undercoat it with...
or whether to?
Eric Mc said:
Foil can work for natural metal finishes - like 50s jets, for instance. But I don't see how it would work on a biplane.
I wouldn't even use Alclad for a biplane - I just think it's too metallic.
The thing about Alclad is it's smooth silver, to make it look less metalic you just weather it and/or use a matt or satin varnish. This is how it looked before it all went wrong:I wouldn't even use Alclad for a biplane - I just think it's too metallic.
Slightly too much weathering powder, and slightly too matt. I'll learn from that and hopefully the next one (which I picked up today from the lhs) will be spot on. One of the few benefits of binning the first one is learning from my mistakes.
So here we go again, kit #2 primed, and this time will be left overnight to harden. I somehow screwed the closed canopy up, so have had to go with the cleverly designed but rather clunky open version. Although I like this as a kit, it's certainly putting up a fight. I wonder what else it has in store for me?
dr_gn said:
So here we go again, kit #2 primed, and this time will be left overnight to harden. I somehow screwed the closed canopy up, so have had to go with the cleverly designed but rather clunky open version. Although I like this as a kit, it's certainly putting up a fight. I wonder what else it has in store for me?
for a split second when I first saw that picture.. I thought "why has he nailed it to the desk?"
onyx39 said:
dr_gn said:
So here we go again, kit #2 primed, and this time will be left overnight to harden. I somehow screwed the closed canopy up, so have had to go with the cleverly designed but rather clunky open version. Although I like this as a kit, it's certainly putting up a fight. I wonder what else it has in store for me?
for a split second when I first saw that picture.. I thought "why has he nailed it to the desk?"The paint is on now, and the decals, but the silver finish is a nightmare. I'm not even sure how I want it to look which I think is the main problem (it's a special scheme, so it would look wrong weathered, then again a flat silver finish looks even worse than flat colours, plus it chances with viewing angle and lighting. Anyway, another couple of evenings should see it finished. I should have stuck with plan "A" and used a camo scheme.
I think it looks marginally better than the old one (4 posts above), but the preshading isn't really subtle enough for my tastes; very difficult to judge the degree of overcoating needed because the preshading is more or less prominent depending on lighting conditions...I'll try satin varnish rather than matt this time.
Edited by dr_gn on Tuesday 20th August 09:31
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