The 1/10 offroad RC thread
Discussion
So it's actually a nut (10mm IIRC). We're talking the large black gear wheel which meshes with the motor output gear/pinion. On its front side, you will see a nut around the front-bound drive shaft pressing against this gear via a (compressed) spring. If you hold the big gear from moving (bung some semi-hard plastic in between its teeth & the motor's), then you can turn this nut outwards. When fully out (there's a clear end-point for its travel), the entire transmission will slip quite easily. You just pick your point based on maybe something like just about keeping its ability to climb a wall head-on (where initially it's of course trying to drive against said wall).
Arif110 said:
For any HPI BULLET OWNERS...
A heads-up over something minor-but-critical, if that doesn't sound too contradictory!
Background is that I'd managed to snap a rear diff cup - with albeit some quite aggressive rock-crawling style antics, where it got stuck cross-axled, making for inordinate load on two diffs' halves.
However, what I then noticed is that the tranmission contains a protection system which can literally be set to virtually zero chance of harm, to the opposite. This is the slipper-clutch.
On two models though now, I've noticed that it's been fully screwed-down, meaning zero play for the thrust spring, & therefore zero protection afforded.
I've now dialled mine down to what I think is optimal for what I use it for - nice to know now though that the slipper clutch will do its job before any diff cups go.
You can also fit the centre diff out of the WRC car as the chassis are almost the same.A heads-up over something minor-but-critical, if that doesn't sound too contradictory!
Background is that I'd managed to snap a rear diff cup - with albeit some quite aggressive rock-crawling style antics, where it got stuck cross-axled, making for inordinate load on two diffs' halves.
However, what I then noticed is that the tranmission contains a protection system which can literally be set to virtually zero chance of harm, to the opposite. This is the slipper-clutch.
On two models though now, I've noticed that it's been fully screwed-down, meaning zero play for the thrust spring, & therefore zero protection afforded.
I've now dialled mine down to what I think is optimal for what I use it for - nice to know now though that the slipper clutch will do its job before any diff cups go.
Arif110 said:
For any HPI BULLET OWNERS...
A heads-up over something minor-but-critical, if that doesn't sound too contradictory!
Background is that I'd managed to snap a rear diff cup - with albeit some quite aggressive rock-crawling style antics, where it got stuck cross-axled, making for inordinate load on two diffs' halves.
However, what I then noticed is that the tranmission contains a protection system which can literally be set to virtually zero chance of harm, to the opposite. This is the slipper-clutch.
On two models though now, I've noticed that it's been fully screwed-down, meaning zero play for the thrust spring, & therefore zero protection afforded.
I've now dialled mine down to what I think is optimal for what I use it for - nice to know now though that the slipper clutch will do its job before any diff cups go.
Is this the bit that you mean?A heads-up over something minor-but-critical, if that doesn't sound too contradictory!
Background is that I'd managed to snap a rear diff cup - with albeit some quite aggressive rock-crawling style antics, where it got stuck cross-axled, making for inordinate load on two diffs' halves.
However, what I then noticed is that the tranmission contains a protection system which can literally be set to virtually zero chance of harm, to the opposite. This is the slipper-clutch.
On two models though now, I've noticed that it's been fully screwed-down, meaning zero play for the thrust spring, & therefore zero protection afforded.
I've now dialled mine down to what I think is optimal for what I use it for - nice to know now though that the slipper clutch will do its job before any diff cups go.
What I've learnt on another run out today is that out of the box the truck really isn't built to be run flat out. It's too fast for it's own good (although I am running 3s batteries which might not help) and it's really only capable of covering moderately rough ground at about 50% throttle. So I have 2 choices, drive slower, use a weaker battery or see what Asiatees can offer...
I think it certainly needs a new steering servo as the stock one is just too weak to handle the car at speed (I have smaller wheels and tyres on the way already). Today I managed to snap the rear shock tower clean in half, which, you could say was clumsy and the split in my hub carrier finally gave way. I have the ally one on the way from Hong Kong already.
Why do these things always end up being more expensive than you originally expect?!
rhinochopig said:
Snap - of sorts.
Quick question about your wheels. The RPM wheels in that YouTube clip have a round fitment, but the suggested alternatives are hexagonal, so do they just fit or is there something else that I need to pick up?- RPM wheels and Proline tyres - more truggy sized now and much kinder to driveline as they're massively lighter.
New Hop-ups fitted to the Turnigy 1/16
Some made a geniune difference (carbon upper deck, aluminium shock towers) where as others are purely bling-factor - I had to get the carbon battery retainer to match the upper deck!
Handed the transmitter over to my brother in law after I had adjusted the steering true, damn thing lasted about 2 minutes before he managed to find a tree and take out the front steering knuckle!!
Good thing this is cheap. Replacement plastic knucle = £0.27p, metal upgraded version = £4.56!
Already dispatched from Hong Kong...
Some made a geniune difference (carbon upper deck, aluminium shock towers) where as others are purely bling-factor - I had to get the carbon battery retainer to match the upper deck!
Handed the transmitter over to my brother in law after I had adjusted the steering true, damn thing lasted about 2 minutes before he managed to find a tree and take out the front steering knuckle!!
Good thing this is cheap. Replacement plastic knucle = £0.27p, metal upgraded version = £4.56!
Already dispatched from Hong Kong...
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