South Downs way

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mattvanders

Original Poster:

242 posts

28 months

Monday 2nd October 2023
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Anyone done the South Downs way before? Looking at doing it soon before the weather turns back. Starting Winchester with a stop off at the YHA for the night befor finishing off in Eastbourne the next day. Will be on my hardtail (kona honzo esd that will change a few things to make life easier (smaller chain ring and less extreme tyres)). Any advice appreciated


Johno

8,466 posts

284 months

Monday 2nd October 2023
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I did it in a day 2yrs ago, middle of October with a mate. He redid it last weekend with some other mates over 2 days and swore profoundly then about how tough it was even over 2 days. When he did it with me he was on a gravel bike, which was way over geared. Which slowed us down a fair bit towards the end, more time stood about waiting really, but heroically he still finished. Waiting at gates, don’t under estimate the hundred plus gates….

Moving time for us was 11hrs. Total time 14hrs. We started at KA statue at about 6:30am I’d guess. We live locally and rode from my mates house in Winchester to the start.

I rode a 2014 Niner Air RDO 29” hard tail, with 30 tooth front, 11spd, 46 rear. New chain on old cassette the day before meant it was 9spd realistically, but it was those 9 I needed more than the last 2 biggrin I rode with Conti Cross Kings in 2.3’s. I’d done 110kms before with lighter Schwalbe Racing Ralph’s previously and they just got sliced etc. The Cross Kings gave me enough grip, with enough puncture protection without being too heavy.

It is a very tough day out. It is a proper saw tooth profile, without relief for 100miles, majority off road. If it is wet I wouldn’t even bother trying. The chalk is lethal in the wet and the going will be so hard. It was low double digits temp for our day out, but it’s more bleak on the tops of the downs. We were lucky, it was dry, it we brought a departure day forward 2 days to avoid rain.

We finished in the dark, a magic evening, but be prepared for riding technical sections in the dark unless you’ll be done by 7pm and currently it’s not light at 6am here either. I had 2 exposure lights, one commuter front light for trail immediately in front, one other helmet mounted with a wider beam. Worked really for me.

There are plenty of water stops/taps available. Although we ran out and struggled to find any in the last 3hrs, fatigued as well, we just pushed on. There are resource maps on Google which highlight the taps, but they’re not always working. I carried 2 x 710ml bottles.

We carried enough food to get through the whole day, but still topped up. I had a bento box style top tube bag, plus frame bag. Phone charger, somewhere to put arm warmers/food/spare bits n pieces/food etc….

I’d like to do it again, but in reverse, probably for the solstice next year. We were well trained for it and I really enjoyed it as a day out. Like most people though, about 2hrs from the end you just want it to be over hehe

I live locally to the route now, I didn’t then, so I ride sections regularly as many others on here do. You need a dry period ideally and hope for a prevailing westerly south or north westerly.

I don’t know your experience or fitness levels, so please bear in mind my next comment.

Don’t take it lightly. 2 days will be easier of course, but it remains a tough couple of days.

dcb

5,844 posts

267 months

Monday 2nd October 2023
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Johno said:
If it is wet I wouldn’t even bother trying. The chalk is lethal in the wet and the going will be so hard.
+1

If it has rained in the last 2-3 days, don't risk it on any bike.

There is something like 12,600 feet of elevation in it.

I have done it on a mountain bike in chunks over a few months
and I have no plans to do it again. There are far superior rides nearby.




mattvanders

Original Poster:

242 posts

28 months

Tuesday 3rd October 2023
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I’ve ridden IOW before in the damp so know how lethal wet chalk can be regardless of how good a enduro tyre is. I would say I have good general fitness as ride regularly - head over Surrey hills and do 20 miles/3000ft but again that’s very different ridding (steady up and sprint technical strap downs) and done a few 50milers on flatter rides in my time on completely the wrong bike (enduro) just to make it harder. Will pack lights as a just in case, good shout.. Have already found the water tap website and can see I will work it around the food stops rather than plan to stop at each one.

Ziplobb

1,372 posts

286 months

Tuesday 3rd October 2023
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My son did it 3/4 weeks ago in a day just under 10 hrs. It was bloody hard going with drizzle for the first couple of hours and I think he said two punctures. He said it was well worth it though and the scenery it stunning. You need plenty of food and make sure the bike it prepped properly.

Edited by Ziplobb on Tuesday 3rd October 07:08

daddy cool

4,005 posts

231 months

Tuesday 3rd October 2023
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I did it August 2021, over 2 days, wild camping near Chanctonbury Ring, from Eastbourne to Winchester (not the conventional direction, but suited my support vehicle driver for post-ride pickup).
44 miles day 1, 56 day 2. Absolutely brutal.... i was carrying a lot of kit in those days, such as a really heavy backpack, which had a 2 litre water bladder in. Ive subsequently got a much smaller hip-pack water bladder which is so much nicer. Talking of water, it really pays to work out all the water points ahead and then trust them, rather than (what i did) absolutely load up on water every time and end up carrying lots unnecessarily.
Agree about wet weather and chalk - it was very hot/dry when i did it, the descents would be lethal in the wet.

If you are on strava my 2 days:
https://www.strava.com/activities/5840951309
https://www.strava.com/activities/5840952044




Edited by daddy cool on Tuesday 3rd October 07:31

ILikeCake

323 posts

146 months

Tuesday 3rd October 2023
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I did it in a day about 6 years ago. Great scenery but in hindsight would have been a lot more enjoyable over 2 days!

Take plenty of water as when I did it quite a few of the taps on the route were out of action. This map is great and shows the tap locations. https://www.amazon.co.uk/South-Downs-XT40-Route-Ma...

President Merkin

3,404 posts

21 months

Tuesday 3rd October 2023
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Not done it myself but the trails between Arundel & Lewes are my stomping ground, Agree with others here, do west to east, to take advantage of the prevailing winds. All of the downs is winch & plummet, very little flat ridng, it's endless climbing & most of the route is either grass, gravel or chalk & the chalk is treacherous in the wet, from about this point of the year, we give up on about 20% of the trails we ride without a second thought in summer.

There's well marked taps along the route but they're often out of order but you'll pass through or very nearby plenty of civilisation en route & unless your fitness is bob on, I'd take it over two days & think that's best anyway, it's a beautiful landscape, you want to take it in rather than belt through it at full gas.

Fluffsri

3,169 posts

198 months

Wednesday 4th October 2023
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I've ridden it 3 times now on 3 different bikes, Marin with 3" travel, Specialized Enduro with 5" travel and a crossbike. Twice from Winch and once from Eastbourne. The ride from Eastbourne was the Exposure night time event. Each ride took between 12 to 14 hrs and I never plan to ride it again smile . As said above, take extra care if you ride it when it is wet, I have seen a broken due to the wet chalk. The last 3 hours are the worst as the hills get steeper and rockier, the whole ride is a lot more challenging than you think it will be. Have a bash though and enjoy the scenery!

President Merkin

3,404 posts

21 months

Wednesday 4th October 2023
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Just to prove my point beyond any doubt, I crashed on slippery chalk on the downs last night & broke my light mount :/

Daveyraveygravey

2,031 posts

186 months

Wednesday 4th October 2023
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I did it in 2010 in a day, on a Specialiased Hard Rock, which I think weighs 17kg. redface Couldn't do it now!

I live in Steyning so the Youth Hostel is a 20 minute slog away. From memory, the first half is slightly easier; I think the climbs are tougher and bunched together more as you get near Eastbourne. The one out of Alfriston, which I think is the 9th big one, is the worst. Steep as all the others, longer, and you can see all of it as it curves round to the right. The one before the youth hostel is deceptive, it doesn't look bad from the road but looks are deceptive.

At the moment the trails are pretty dry, there aren't any long puddle/mud sections on my bits. It does drain quite quick on the tops too, but as someone else says the weather up there is colder and windier than down below, be prepared to take an extra layer and to be taking it off and putting it back on quite often. I don't avoid the chalk when its wet but I do take more care and slow down a bit. I ride up there through the winter too, it's actually nicer when it's -3 than +3!

The water taps were put out of use during covid, I don't think many of them have been reinstated. There are a few horse box type coffee places around now though. Edit - rode past the one at Washington this morning, just before the A24. it's working. Possibly because the Gurkha Trailwalker event was on a couple of weeks ago. Walk jog or run the whole route in under 30 hrs in a team of 4...

At the time I thought a full susser would be better, you take a battering all over your body.

Edited by Daveyraveygravey on Thursday 5th October 08:56

Daveyraveygravey

2,031 posts

186 months

Wednesday 4th October 2023
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dcb said:
I have done it on a mountain bike in chunks over a few months
and I have no plans to do it again. There are far superior rides nearby.
Whereabouts? I love the SDW and there are so many trails branching off it!

Craikeybaby

10,461 posts

227 months

Wednesday 4th October 2023
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Also interested - I am going to be staying in that sort of area next year (Fulking), and am keen to find some good MTB routes.

President Merkin

3,404 posts

21 months

Wednesday 4th October 2023
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At Fulking, you're nestled at the foot of Devil's Dyke. All flat land to the north, the SDW is on top of the hill looming above the village. Easiest way on to the trails will be either east towards Upper Beeding or take the pain & climb up the Dyke via Poynings. It's steep!

Craikeybaby

10,461 posts

227 months

Wednesday 4th October 2023
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Thanks!

ribbit

51 posts

196 months

Thursday 5th October 2023
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I rode the SDW in autumn ten years ago, west to east. Spread over two days, on a vintage steel MTB, one dramatic puncture. Encountered a unicycle at one point. Apart from a couple of tougher climbs, I found most of it pretty easy, and I was not a young person. As has been noted by others, the surface is rough and sharp in places - flint is far more of an issue than chalk - so take that into consideration. Not the most exciting of rides, but a good experience overall.

Daveyraveygravey

2,031 posts

186 months

Thursday 5th October 2023
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For Craikeybaby and President Merkin...there's a better way than that, Fulking Escarpment on Strava.

https://www.strava.com/activities/9372852776/analy...


If there has been a lot of rain, it's almost impossible.

Another option is at Edburton, not as steep.

Happy to post some routes if anyone is interested.

Edited by Daveyraveygravey on Thursday 5th October 08:53

Daveyraveygravey

2,031 posts

186 months

Thursday 5th October 2023
quotequote all
President Merkin said:
At Fulking, you're nestled at the foot of Devil's Dyke. All flat land to the north, the SDW is on top of the hill looming above the village. Easiest way on to the trails will be either east towards Upper Beeding or take the pain & climb up the Dyke via Poynings. It's steep!
The pub is good, as is the one in Poynings, the Royal Oak.

President Merkin

3,404 posts

21 months

Thursday 5th October 2023
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They are. Whether the Fulking escarpment is better or worse is a view. It's certainly straight up the hill. It depends on what you want to do on a bike. Go east towards Steyning & you can climb up to the SDW via the pig farm or Sopers lane & ten minutes after that, you can be into the Steyning jump trails or head east towards Chanctonbury, west towards Lancing. Whichever way, there's endless trails around the SDW to play on & you can easily do a full days riding just looping around sections of the SDW. Things like Komoot & Strava will show where the locals burn about the place.

Daveyraveygravey

2,031 posts

186 months

Thursday 5th October 2023
quotequote all
ribbit said:
I rode the SDW in autumn ten years ago, west to east. Spread over two days, on a vintage steel MTB, one dramatic puncture. Encountered a unicycle at one point. Apart from a couple of tougher climbs, I found most of it pretty easy, and I was not a young person. As has been noted by others, the surface is rough and sharp in places - flint is far more of an issue than chalk - so take that into consideration. Not the most exciting of rides, but a good experience overall.
Not the most exciting? It's beautiful, views of the sea in places, most people won't find it "pretty easy" what more do you want? I did the Downslink on Saturday, all the way there and back. Now that is NOT exciting!