How heavy is you bike?

How heavy is you bike?

Author
Discussion

Dibby

423 posts

201 months

Friday 19th March 2010
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anniesdad said:
As for tubeless - definitely go for it. Wouldbnt run a 'decent' mountainbike without tubeless rims now.
Tubeless is a whole can of worms, I wouldn't trust them.

I'd have thought it would be easier to carry a spare tube in the backpack for a quick change on the side of the trail rather than a whole tyre. If you cut the sidewall of a regular tyre you can generally get yourself home with a new tube, with tubeless you'd be stranded.

Also, how do the spokes work with a tubeless rim? Are the nipples a PITA to get out if (or more like when) you snap a spoke?

Gooby

9,268 posts

235 months

Friday 19th March 2010
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Dibby said:
anniesdad said:
As for tubeless - definitely go for it. Wouldbnt run a 'decent' mountainbike without tubeless rims now.
Tubeless is a whole can of worms, I wouldn't trust them.

I'd have thought it would be easier to carry a spare tube in the backpack for a quick change on the side of the trail rather than a whole tyre. If you cut the sidewall of a regular tyre you can generally get yourself home with a new tube, with tubeless you'd be stranded.

Also, how do the spokes work with a tubeless rim? Are the nipples a PITA to get out if (or more like when) you snap a spoke?
eh?!
With tubeless you carry a spare innertube and some park tyre patches. In 4years of riding tubeless with most of my buddies there has not been a situation we could not carry on the ride in this way. I will give you a clue as to how good tubeless is: my regular buddy has purchased the same bike as me with the same tyres, just not tubeless. In 3 weeks of riding he has got 7 punctures, I have zero. I have not had a puncture in over 6 months. That is 4 rides a week over some crappy trails.


Dibby

423 posts

201 months

Friday 19th March 2010
quotequote all
Coolio, if you can bung a tube in to get you home that's not too bad. What about when you snap a spoke and have to get the nipple out?

Wouldn't mind giving them a go on the XC'er if I ever have to buy new wheels but I just wouldn't trust them on the DH'er leaning a lot harder on them and asking a lot more from the tyres.

khushy

3,966 posts

220 months

Friday 19th March 2010
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6 and a bit!

khushy

(KG that is)

mk1fan

10,532 posts

226 months

Friday 19th March 2010
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Why would you need to get the nipple out if you snap a spoke? Just hold it in place and renew the spoke.

If you do need to get it out then you lift the rim strip and voila. Some systems use a taped down strip in which case you tape a new bit over as a repair. Others use a rubber strip.

Google Stan's No Tubes or Ghetto Tubeless.

nessiemac

1,561 posts

242 months

Friday 19th March 2010
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39 Lbs for the SC Bullit and 30ish Lbs for the SC Chameleonsmile

mchammer89

3,127 posts

214 months

Friday 19th March 2010
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In order of weight:

Fixed wheel bike 8.5 kg
Old geared roadie 10.5 kg
SS 29er 12.5 kg
Old 60's town bike 16 kg
Fat b*stard cruiser 17 kg

SoliD

1,135 posts

218 months

Friday 19th March 2010
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Boardman HT Pro should weigh 24.1lbs as standard, with my saddle computer etc on I would add another 2 or 3 lbs I expect.

nofuse22

196 posts

176 months

Friday 19th March 2010
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My cervelo s3 with chorus and ksyrium sl wheels is c.6.6kgs.....

dubbs

1,588 posts

285 months

Friday 19th March 2010
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Haven't weighed my S3 but the frameset is 1050g


snotrag

14,499 posts

212 months

Saturday 20th March 2010
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Dibby said:
I just wouldn't trust them on the DH'er leaning a lot harder on them and asking a lot more from the tyres.
You get more grip, and lower rolling resistance for the same pressure, and can run lower pressure with no worries on pinching. Tubeless really is the future.


PS I've been riding tubeless (hard) on a number of bikes for two years now. I've had one puncture that required pumping back up (no tyre removal) and one tyre rippage incident - which would have been the same regardless of whether I had a tube in or not. Stuck a tube in, plus some gaffer tape, finished ride, threw tyre in bin.

Edited by snotrag on Saturday 20th March 10:46

okgo

38,258 posts

199 months

Saturday 20th March 2010
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nofuse22 said:
My cervelo s3 with chorus and ksyrium sl wheels is c.6.6kgs.....
that's light.

Gooby

9,268 posts

235 months

Saturday 20th March 2010
quotequote all
Dibby said:
Coolio, if you can bung a tube in to get you home that's not too bad. What about when you snap a spoke and have to get the nipple out?

Wouldn't mind giving them a go on the XC'er if I ever have to buy new wheels but I just wouldn't trust them on the DH'er leaning a lot harder on them and asking a lot more from the tyres.
You would change a spoke on the trail?!? Nah - Never!
You wouldnt even worry 'till 3 spokes had gone. Tie it to the next spoke so it doesnt damage anything and keep going. If push came to shove you can undo the nipples with a leatherman (or any pliers).

Dont know the config of many DH rigs but the ability to run tyres at low pressure to increase grip with no risk of pinch flats would make it ideal.

Silly scare stories dont change the fact that it is far more reliable, versatile and better for riding than the ancient "tubed" tyres.

s2driveruk

345 posts

210 months

Monday 22nd March 2010
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my Bianchi from memory is 8.6kgs which is all a tad irrelevent when there is a 15stone lump trying to get it up a hill. Definately need to focus on the 3stone weight saving from the rider rather than the 1kg on buying better wheels :-)

mk1fan

10,532 posts

226 months

Monday 22nd March 2010
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You can lose 3-stone and still be ugly. New wheels though can be BLING! smile

Floor Tom

406 posts

186 months

Monday 22nd March 2010
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I don't know how much my bikes weigh. At a guess I'd say the XC bike is just under 30lbs and the DH bike just over 40lbs.

With regards to tubeless tyres. For general hacking about or trail riding they are magic. They really do transform how the bike rides. For DH though they are not a good idea for a few reasons. Firstly, tyres. The Maxxis tubeless tyres are not up to the punishment, they tear at the bead. Maxxis non tubeless tyres cannot be relied on to remain properly seated when you are really giving it some. Michelins, while better than Maxxis (in terms of working in a tubeless settup, the grip is similar) are not readily avalable just now so not really a factor.
Secondly, changing tyres. This is a total pain in the arse when you are in a muddy field and your tyres are covered in gloopy mud, even if you have a spare wheel set you still have to faff about with sealent when you want to put a fresh tyre on for qualifying/race run. I only know one racer who uses tubeless and he has more tyre problems than anyone else I race with, I have seen them costing him valuable practise time as he cocks about trying to get a new tyre to seat. You might find that the very top guys use tubeless, I don't think they do but some might, but you will find very few at a regional or national race that do as they just aren't worth the bother.

dubbs

1,588 posts

285 months

Monday 22nd March 2010
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I run tubeless and just whack a tube in there if it's that bad... great thing about tubeless is being able to run at a slightly lower pressure than tubes would allow due to pinch flats plus most thorn type punctures are automatically sealed and fixed.

Last tyre changed I lost count of the number of punctures that had simply sealed and not caused me an issue smile

Caveat: I'm not MTB racing!!!! still reckon they're worthwhile for singletrack and XC racing though - bow to Tom's superior DH knowledge (superb vid by the way!!)

Shape Shifter

5,187 posts

238 months

Monday 22nd March 2010
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10.3kg for my Tri and Run road bike. What's that in old money... errr 22.7lbs.