What Can i do to reduce the wear rate of my Gearset?
Discussion
Just been inspecting my road bike, and after 4mths of hard riding, ive noticed some of the teeth on both gears of the front crank are looking a little on the thin side. the rear cassette is fine showing no signs of wear at all.
so ive liberally applied copious amounts of grease to the entire gear set and now i ask you guys.. what else can i do besides upgrade, or stop riding?
so ive liberally applied copious amounts of grease to the entire gear set and now i ask you guys.. what else can i do besides upgrade, or stop riding?
You ought to be able to get several thousand miles out of a set of chainwheels; it's only when the teeth start to 'hook' that you should change them.
I use a 'dry' PTFE chain lube - there are lots to choose from - on the basis that it picks up less dirt than an oil will; all other things being equal should should get through at least two chains before you have to change a cassette and at least three cassettes before you have to change the chainwheels.
If you're in any doubt then check the chain; if it's stretched replace it and if you then get chainsuck you know you need to replace the chainwheel(s).
I use a 'dry' PTFE chain lube - there are lots to choose from - on the basis that it picks up less dirt than an oil will; all other things being equal should should get through at least two chains before you have to change a cassette and at least three cassettes before you have to change the chainwheels.
If you're in any doubt then check the chain; if it's stretched replace it and if you then get chainsuck you know you need to replace the chainwheel(s).
You can only expect to get 2000 miles max out of todays 9/10 speed chains. Oils is a killer on chains, use the minimum amount of a dedicated cycle chain lube.
Clean the chain regularly, once a week on a road bike (200 miles) and every time it gets grotty on a MTB.
Use a chain bath with a water soluble degreaser, eg. Hyper Clean, wash with water, dry and use WD40 to drive out the water. Allow to dry and re-lube.
Yes, I know it's a pain, but it's what the pro mechanics have to do every day. A grotty chain knackers sprockets and chews up chain rings in no time.
Clean the chain regularly, once a week on a road bike (200 miles) and every time it gets grotty on a MTB.
Use a chain bath with a water soluble degreaser, eg. Hyper Clean, wash with water, dry and use WD40 to drive out the water. Allow to dry and re-lube.
Yes, I know it's a pain, but it's what the pro mechanics have to do every day. A grotty chain knackers sprockets and chews up chain rings in no time.
SystemParanoia said:
chainstuck?
Suck, not stuck. Instead of coming free of the chainwheel at 6 o'clock the chain gets hooked on the teeth and pulled up to 7 or even 8 o'clock before releasing.In extremis it can absorb so much chain that the rear mech gets pulled forward and damaged, or the chain gets ground into the chainstay. Or the whole lot locks up and you go over the bars.
Lots of causes, but generally happens when chainwheel teeth are worn by a stretched chain and then hook up on the shorter pitch links of a new, unstretched chain.
exe888 said:
"what else can i do besides upgrade, or stop riding?" - accept that these things wear out and budget for it.....
Exactly. Cycling is not an activity for wimps and likewise it requires a reasonable amount of time and money to maintain equipment.I have LOOK pedals that are over 20 years old and still functioning perfectly. However chains are replaced after 1500-2000 miles as the consequent damage to chainrings and cassettes is unacceptable. Brake blocks are binned at least once a year.
Apart from tyres, the only other items requiring regular "inspection" are rims and bottom brackets. Every thing else pretty well lasts until it become obsolescent (or bent).
A dirty, ill-maintained bike grates with me just as much as if it were a car.
thats all fine, and i accept that.
i was just surprised to see so much wear on my crank gears so soon.
thanks for the advice on chain lube... should be somewhat less messy than engine oil lol.
i think ive ruined my rear brakes as some oil got onto them.
but that doesn't matter as ill probably be binning them soon when i fit some cyclo x front forks, and go for a disk brake at the front.
i was just surprised to see so much wear on my crank gears so soon.
thanks for the advice on chain lube... should be somewhat less messy than engine oil lol.
i think ive ruined my rear brakes as some oil got onto them.
but that doesn't matter as ill probably be binning them soon when i fit some cyclo x front forks, and go for a disk brake at the front.
Fit one of these: http://www.scottoiler.co.uk/active.asp
Better known for their motorbike oiling systems, but the bicycle one is great. Greater efficiency, less wear, cleaner gears and easier to clean too as it's water soluble.
I've got them on all my bikes. This pic is after a 24-hr MTB event I did in May - chain was sparkly even if the rest of the bike wasn't (I've got a bodged setup on that bike because it ain't got a mech).
Better known for their motorbike oiling systems, but the bicycle one is great. Greater efficiency, less wear, cleaner gears and easier to clean too as it's water soluble.
I've got them on all my bikes. This pic is after a 24-hr MTB event I did in May - chain was sparkly even if the rest of the bike wasn't (I've got a bodged setup on that bike because it ain't got a mech).
Gassing Station | Pedal Powered | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff