Which chain oil?
Discussion
Thanks Steve. Out of interest how often / how many miles do you oil chain? And do you simply give it a spin whilst oiling or clean the chain with a rag or something first?
Apologies for newbie questions but last time i oiled a chain was 20+ years ago with a can of 3-in-1... later to be followed by a clip round earoles by me mam for ruining me Farah's
Apologies for newbie questions but last time i oiled a chain was 20+ years ago with a can of 3-in-1... later to be followed by a clip round earoles by me mam for ruining me Farah's
Personaly I give the chain a run through a rag to clean it (grabbing the chain with a rag and turn the peddles backwards), run round dabbing a drop on every link then run it through a rag again to remove the excess. I do it every 100 miles or so, but then I'm commuting on roads and dusty towpath. It all depends on how you ride. Personaly I prefer a dry lube in summer because I find wet lube makes a paste that gets in everywhere with dust. Personal preference to some extent though, and depends on where you ride.
I find you only need a tiny amount of wet lube though as it spreads along the chain easily enough after a few spins of the pedals. I used to use wet lube during winter months when the trails start getting a bit muddy but I now use Purple Extreme all year round. It’s a little bit thicker than dry lube so it stays on the chain longer but it doesn’t attract dirt the way wet lube sometimes does, and a bottle seems to last ages.
As is normal for these threads, many posters are suggesting their own favourite chain lube. I've used several makes, and flit between dry and wet lube as and when I feel the conditions merit it. I use Muc-Off currently, as it's what my excellent local shop stocks, and because I've no complaints about it's performance.
The key to making best use of any chain lube, though, is to thoroughly clean the chain regularly, before re-lubing it. When applying the lube, do so sparingly, there's no need to slather it on. The side plates don't need to be lubed, just spot one drop of lube onto each roller, ideally between the inner face of the inner plate and the roller itself. Then let capillary action draw the lube into the space between the roller and the rivet/pin, and also between the outside edges of the roller and the inside faces of the inner link plate. Start at a known point, like a 'quick link' if one is fitted, or just a link marked with paint or a marker pen, and make sure you do every link. Spin the pedals backwards for a few full revolutions of the chain to encourage the lube to penetrate into the rollers, then give it a few minutes before wiping any excess lube off the outside of the chain.
As for when, or how often to clean and lube your chain? I do so every other ride for the MTB (lots of sandy heathland locally) and about once a fortnight or every 200 miles or so on the road bike. You can tell it needs doing if you grab the chain with both hands and try to twist the links. You'll hear (and feel, to some extent) a gritty noise, which is all the dust and tiny grit that's found it's way into the rollers. You'll know when you've cleaned it properly, too, because the grittiness won't be there when you twist the links after it's been properly cleaned.
Cleaning a chain is best done by pouring enough degreaser into an ice cream tub to cover the (removed) chain, and shaking fairly vigorously. Let it stand for a while, then shake it again. Then rinse through with clean water, and let it dry thoroughly. I sometimes apply WD40/GT85 in another tub, to drive any residual moisture out, wipe the excess off with a rag, then let the rest evaporate, before re-fitting the chain and applying the lube. If I'm cleaning the chain without removal, then I use a jar and a toothbrush to apply degreaser near the middle of the chain run, well away from any bearings. Scrub the chain, rinse gently with water, then WD40/GT85, and re-lube as before. It all sounds like a faff, and very long winded, but you soon develop a system, especially if you do several bikes at once, and it doesn't take as long as you'd think. While degreaser is working it's magic, or you wait for stuff to dry or evaporate, you can get about the rest of the bike, cleaning rims, brake blocks, cables, etc, and oiling pivot points on brake callipers and such, and checking tyres for cuts and other damage. Before you know it you've given your bike a thorough safety check and a minor 'service' to boot.
The key to making best use of any chain lube, though, is to thoroughly clean the chain regularly, before re-lubing it. When applying the lube, do so sparingly, there's no need to slather it on. The side plates don't need to be lubed, just spot one drop of lube onto each roller, ideally between the inner face of the inner plate and the roller itself. Then let capillary action draw the lube into the space between the roller and the rivet/pin, and also between the outside edges of the roller and the inside faces of the inner link plate. Start at a known point, like a 'quick link' if one is fitted, or just a link marked with paint or a marker pen, and make sure you do every link. Spin the pedals backwards for a few full revolutions of the chain to encourage the lube to penetrate into the rollers, then give it a few minutes before wiping any excess lube off the outside of the chain.
As for when, or how often to clean and lube your chain? I do so every other ride for the MTB (lots of sandy heathland locally) and about once a fortnight or every 200 miles or so on the road bike. You can tell it needs doing if you grab the chain with both hands and try to twist the links. You'll hear (and feel, to some extent) a gritty noise, which is all the dust and tiny grit that's found it's way into the rollers. You'll know when you've cleaned it properly, too, because the grittiness won't be there when you twist the links after it's been properly cleaned.
Cleaning a chain is best done by pouring enough degreaser into an ice cream tub to cover the (removed) chain, and shaking fairly vigorously. Let it stand for a while, then shake it again. Then rinse through with clean water, and let it dry thoroughly. I sometimes apply WD40/GT85 in another tub, to drive any residual moisture out, wipe the excess off with a rag, then let the rest evaporate, before re-fitting the chain and applying the lube. If I'm cleaning the chain without removal, then I use a jar and a toothbrush to apply degreaser near the middle of the chain run, well away from any bearings. Scrub the chain, rinse gently with water, then WD40/GT85, and re-lube as before. It all sounds like a faff, and very long winded, but you soon develop a system, especially if you do several bikes at once, and it doesn't take as long as you'd think. While degreaser is working it's magic, or you wait for stuff to dry or evaporate, you can get about the rest of the bike, cleaning rims, brake blocks, cables, etc, and oiling pivot points on brake callipers and such, and checking tyres for cuts and other damage. Before you know it you've given your bike a thorough safety check and a minor 'service' to boot.
Cheers yellowjack. I was thinking of buying the Park Tool Cyclone Chain Scrubber
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UQfLuCWF7Mk
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UQfLuCWF7Mk
toohangry said:
yellowjack said:
As is normal for these threads, many posters are suggesting their own favourite chain lube.
Most people have favourite products as they've used a few and know what works for them, no? Phooey said:
Cheers yellowjack. I was thinking of buying the Park Tool Cyclone Chain Scrubber
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UQfLuCWF7Mk
The Park Tools gadget looks pretty good, to be fair. It saves a lot of the faff from my method(s), and it's probably going to be cleaner and more convenient, too. I used to use a 'Muc-Off Chain Doc' thing. Similar to the Park Tools cleaner with regard to the roller brushes, but instead of filling with liquid degreaser, you attached an aerosol chain cleaner via a tube which blasted each roller directly. I was bought it as a gift, and used it for a couple of years, but the aerosol tins were expensive (relatively) so when the tool itself finally fell apart, I didn't replace it. Having said that, if I was more time-pressed, then I'd consider buying the Park Tools Cyclone that's in that video you linked to.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UQfLuCWF7Mk
I've got the park tools one and one thing it does do which a lot don't is that it has a magnet in the bottom which attracts all the little bits of metal - you'd be surprised by how much sticks to it.
It's great if you don't want to take the chain off, but probably not as thorough as a full clean by 'soaking' the chain.
It's great if you don't want to take the chain off, but probably not as thorough as a full clean by 'soaking' the chain.
I was given the Park Tool cleaner as a gift a few years back - I'm still on the first bottle of degreaser, mainly because my maintenance used to be non existent, I've got a lot better lately, all my chains are sparkly(ish) - as long as you keep on top of it and do it regularly the Park Tools is fine but I'm not sure it is any/much better than just regularly cleaning it with an old rag and toothbrush...
I oil my chain with Muck Off Dry Lube, my choice is usually based on cost / offers.
My mate Pressure washes his bike/chain, it cleans it nicely but not sure its any good in the long term...
I oil my chain with Muck Off Dry Lube, my choice is usually based on cost / offers.
My mate Pressure washes his bike/chain, it cleans it nicely but not sure its any good in the long term...
N8CYL said:
Am I missing something, what is the advantage of showroom clean chains? Chains stretch anyway and from £12.00 upwards they are relatively cheap.
I change mine at 0.75% stretch, will it last much longer if its spotless? I cant imagine much difference if I never cleaned it.
Some of us like not having that black gunk over our chains.I change mine at 0.75% stretch, will it last much longer if its spotless? I cant imagine much difference if I never cleaned it.
Yep, gets on legs, trousers, car interiors, locks, other bikes in the shed, my son's hands when he crawls around and grabs it...etc.
I use a small amount of Finish Line dry after a quick wipe of GT85 on all my bikes, road or MTB. The MTBs just get it more often, especially after a wash.
I use a small amount of Finish Line dry after a quick wipe of GT85 on all my bikes, road or MTB. The MTBs just get it more often, especially after a wash.
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