Renovating an old wooden sports boat, am I mad?
Discussion
Isn't there a bloke on PH with 4 RR Meteor/Merlin engines...I'll just leave that thought there.
Or these people have some nice motors.
http://www.morinboats.com/Morin_Boats/Inboard_Engi...
Or these people have some nice motors.
http://www.morinboats.com/Morin_Boats/Inboard_Engi...
Huntsman said:
Engine porn... a Liberty V12!
It's a 23' home made wooden boat, fabricated by an idiot. A V12 would last about 5 minutes. 
Probably going to go with something around a 5 - 6L V8, petrol rather than diesel. It's not going to get huge hours of use, so the diesel economy won't be worth it. I fancy a nice V8 rumble too.
Probably going to go with something around a 5 - 6L V8, petrol rather than diesel. It's not going to get huge hours of use, so the diesel economy won't be worth it. I fancy a nice V8 rumble too.
Sunday evening update.
Saturday was a dead loss, but I managed to get a few hours in today. Finished off the frames, cut out the stem and breasthook, fine-tuned the gussets based on the actual frame timbers and they're ready to cut out.
Pics;
Transom framing and frame 1 in the upper.
Frames 2, 3 and 4 ready to go.
Frames 5, 6, 7, 8 and the breasthook and stem cut out of 3/4" ply.
I must have been incredibly frugal with the timber. I've only used a fraction of the framework timber I purchased, there's loads left in the pile. Probably enough to make another full set of frames at least.
I've still got the deck beams to cut out (have made the curved template already), but will leave this until after the frames are ready, so I'll be able to measure each one individually. It'll save some big offcuts if I make each one to measure rather than just cutting out 4 x full-length beams and cutting half of it off the smaller ones.
That's the total offcuts, including the MDF I used the make the templates. Doesn't seem like much!
Gussets drawn on the ply, ready for cutting out. I've done so much jigsaw work today, I'd had enough by this point. I'll finish them off early next week.
So, frames all ready, gussets not far off. I just need the silicon bronze screws and nails, mix up some epoxy, and I can start getting the frames made up.
I might start notching out the motor stringers if I get chance, this will be the first thing I'll need once the frames are done and dry, so might as well get them ready.
Another week or two and it'll start to take shape....
Saturday was a dead loss, but I managed to get a few hours in today. Finished off the frames, cut out the stem and breasthook, fine-tuned the gussets based on the actual frame timbers and they're ready to cut out.
Pics;
Transom framing and frame 1 in the upper.
Frames 2, 3 and 4 ready to go.
Frames 5, 6, 7, 8 and the breasthook and stem cut out of 3/4" ply.
I must have been incredibly frugal with the timber. I've only used a fraction of the framework timber I purchased, there's loads left in the pile. Probably enough to make another full set of frames at least.
I've still got the deck beams to cut out (have made the curved template already), but will leave this until after the frames are ready, so I'll be able to measure each one individually. It'll save some big offcuts if I make each one to measure rather than just cutting out 4 x full-length beams and cutting half of it off the smaller ones.
That's the total offcuts, including the MDF I used the make the templates. Doesn't seem like much!
Gussets drawn on the ply, ready for cutting out. I've done so much jigsaw work today, I'd had enough by this point. I'll finish them off early next week.
So, frames all ready, gussets not far off. I just need the silicon bronze screws and nails, mix up some epoxy, and I can start getting the frames made up.
I might start notching out the motor stringers if I get chance, this will be the first thing I'll need once the frames are done and dry, so might as well get them ready.
Another week or two and it'll start to take shape....
Great work again maser, jigsaw... I thought you were using the mdf as a template and the router table with a guided bit? The timber looks pretty good quality d fir (not much sign of knots) and as you say the scrap pile isn't huge so I'm assuming you haven't made a conscious to cut round them to get ideal parts. Robbins you used was't it?
Edited by OneDs on Sunday 19th January 20:38
OneDs said:
Great work again maser, jigsaw... I thought you were using the mdf as a template and the router table with a guided bit? The timber looks pretty good quality d fir (not much sign of knots) and as you say the scrap pile isn't huge so I'm assuming you haven't made a conscious to cut round them to get ideal parts. Robbins you used was't it?
Method: draw round template, cut with jigsaw or bandsaw, finish with the router to get a perfect line (which I've made sure of by getting the templates spot on).Edited by OneDs on Sunday 19th January 20:12
Timber has been excellent quality, apart from one length that was bloody hard, took ages to cut!
Cutting parts, given it's all planks, there's only one way you can cut all the parts, lengthwise along the lumber. Not much option to do it any other way. It's what's recommended in the plans anyway and will give the most strength with the grain running lengthwise. Because I've had templates, I've been able to make the most of the lengths and widths (some widths have been just a couple of mm wide enough for a part), making them back up against each other, etc (similar to the gussets, squeeze as many in to the material as possible, which is much easier when you have a former). It's saved cutting time as well as timber. All good.
Can't cut the gussets with the bandsaw, it'll be bloody hard to get a sheet of ply up in the air and feed it through.
Was keen to get them done tonight, but I'd made enough progress today and have to stop somewhere.
I need to learn how to mix epoxy next week too, that'll be interesting....
Edited by maser_spyder on Monday 20th January 09:43
Simpo Two said:
I think you should make a scaled-down copy of the plans and build a perfect miniature for your mantelpiece! (or bath)
I like the way you rule out a V12, but immediately suggest a 6.0 V8
I made a radio controlled one when I was about ten, took a year to build it, 10cc nitro engine, was superb. Still have it in the shed. I should get it our really.I like the way you rule out a V12, but immediately suggest a 6.0 V8
Anyway, that's the sum total of my boat building experience. Not great, given what I'm attempting here.
Simpo Two said:
I like the way you rule out a V12, but immediately suggest a 6.0 V8
Puts the chap squarely in small block Chevy country 350 or 377 cu in and it is quite acceptable to run these with straight through exhausts. Of course being a PH'er he really should be looking toward a 383 stroker.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bbCVXPoIeCA
Then sticking an M-1SCB procharger on it.
Maser, out of interest, what is the cold molding process (number of layers & directions) and what wood are you using, mahogany ply or a solid veneer (what thickness)?
Given the desire for the V8, the size of the boat, the use of D fir vs mahogany in the frames and the weight of any power train. What are your power/weight and ballast needs? I'm assuming the amount of ballast and placement can be adjusted as required after some early testing.
Given the desire for the V8, the size of the boat, the use of D fir vs mahogany in the frames and the weight of any power train. What are your power/weight and ballast needs? I'm assuming the amount of ballast and placement can be adjusted as required after some early testing.
maser_spyder said:
I've got a spare hood frame, one of the split types for a later car. Managed to find an original one-piece unit so my split one is going spare if that helps!
Anyway, it's a sprite, what do you need a roof for anyway?
Hi. checked my hood frame at the weekend as the re-roof is creeping up the to do list and mins maybe bent, but i dont have anything to compare it too. . .would you have a picture of yours up " so to speak" Anyway, it's a sprite, what do you need a roof for anyway?
benters said:
maser_spyder said:
I've got a spare hood frame, one of the split types for a later car. Managed to find an original one-piece unit so my split one is going spare if that helps!
Anyway, it's a sprite, what do you need a roof for anyway?
Hi. checked my hood frame at the weekend as the re-roof is creeping up the to do list and mins maybe bent, but i dont have anything to compare it too. . .would you have a picture of yours up " so to speak" Anyway, it's a sprite, what do you need a roof for anyway?
Both are in need of some attention! Will get a pic of the two-piece one for you later, no worries.
maser_spyder said:
benters said:
maser_spyder said:
I've got a spare hood frame, one of the split types for a later car. Managed to find an original one-piece unit so my split one is going spare if that helps!
Anyway, it's a sprite, what do you need a roof for anyway?
Hi. checked my hood frame at the weekend as the re-roof is creeping up the to do list and mins maybe bent, but i dont have anything to compare it too. . .would you have a picture of yours up " so to speak" Anyway, it's a sprite, what do you need a roof for anyway?
Both are in need of some attention! Will get a pic of the two-piece one for you later, no worries.
OneDs said:
Maser, out of interest, what is the cold molding process (number of layers & directions) and what wood are you using, mahogany ply or a solid veneer (what thickness)?
Given the desire for the V8, the size of the boat, the use of D fir vs mahogany in the frames and the weight of any power train. What are your power/weight and ballast needs? I'm assuming the amount of ballast and placement can be adjusted as required after some early testing.
Cold moulding will be 4 x thicknesses on the bottom, 3 x on the sides. Using 3mm ply, all done diagonally opposing for each layer. Then a final veneer of mahogany lengthwise.Given the desire for the V8, the size of the boat, the use of D fir vs mahogany in the frames and the weight of any power train. What are your power/weight and ballast needs? I'm assuming the amount of ballast and placement can be adjusted as required after some early testing.
Power/weight and ballast I can work out later. The finished hull should weigh in at around 500Kg dry.
Given the nature of home-built boats like this, where every one is different, I don't think you can accurately predict ballast in the early build stages. Realistically, it's going to be something that's added retrospectively after a shakedown as and where required.
The seats are all easily removed (I'll make them that way on purpose), so access to the hull is relatively straightforward for maintenance.
It's not a racing boat, rather a nice burbly sounding runabout for fine weather. I doubt it'll ever see V-max (at least not at my hand).
That's assuming it ever sees the water! Silicon bronze bits arrived an hour ago, so I'm off to start making shapes at last.
RichB said:
maser_spyder said:
It's not a racing boat, rather a nice burbly sounding runabout for fine weather..
Is this for sea or river use or both? But as Simpo pointed out at the start, there's no wet weather gear anyway, so it's hardly a bad-weather boat in the first place.
It'll probably be for sunny days on the Solent, and possibly go out to Italy or France at some point for a summer. At 500kg plus the fittings it'll be a lightweight boat to tow at least.
Great project wish I had the time. I had a 5l v8 in a master craft and after it failed I fitted a bmw 3.2 evo out of a m3 it had 340hp rev to 8000. And smooth as silk. This engine made the old heavy v8 look like an anchor and she used half the fuel !!!!!! The only down side is the lack of v8 sound. And a good one costs £1500? Just a thought. Carry on the good work. Richard
Edited by griff 200 on Monday 20th January 20:30
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