A Few Progress Photos...
Discussion
crafty said:
I'd suggest making a removable panel with all the gauges and switches in it like I did - it will make your life a WHOLE lot easier.... esp if (when?) something goes wrong. I made mine out of black perspex, and built the front of the dash out to make a recess... you can see below how the leather tucks in behind the perspex.
If you are going the racecar look with no dash covering, you could make the removable panel in alloy and get it powdercoated matt black.
You did a beautiful job, Grant. Mine will be much more simple. Perhaps in the future I will make some mods to the dash. For now, the instruments go right into the existing fiberglass with no other panels or covering.If you are going the racecar look with no dash covering, you could make the removable panel in alloy and get it powdercoated matt black.
I really like the removable panel idea. That will be my first dash mod down the road.
Test fitting the fuel filters and pumps...
Edited by Builder on Friday 5th October 05:51
.... if you are thinking of doing it in the future, save yourself the nightmare and do it now.
1. You can try different layouts if you use a panel. I drew dozens of layouts in CAD and decided which one I liked. Then I made the panel and installed it and I didnt like it... so I made a new panel. It wasnt until I put them in place that I could see the issues.
2. You can pull the wiring through the gauge hole to hook up the gauges and extend the loom where necessary - but trying to put the brackets on the gauges is a complete nightmare in the standard setup
3. There are the obvious advantages of being able to pull the panel out when things dont work.
I added two layers.. I did this because I needed the dash a bit wider on the passenger side in order to fit the head unit over to the left otherwise it was hitting the AC ducting. The dash is tapered, so by bringing the face out about 25mm I got the extra width I needed.
Because I was covering mine, I did it in MDF board and glassed it in.
If you were doing a stripped out version without the dash cover I suppose you could just put rivnuts in the original dash.
Hope these sketches explain it adequately.... Im sure others will agree that getting to the dash later (and even during fitting and shakedown) is a pain in the ass.
Because I was covering mine, I did it in MDF board and glassed it in.
If you were doing a stripped out version without the dash cover I suppose you could just put rivnuts in the original dash.
Hope these sketches explain it adequately.... Im sure others will agree that getting to the dash later (and even during fitting and shakedown) is a pain in the ass.
Okay, yes. I see how you've built it out. Future ass pains noted...no doubt.
I am going to print (plot) my dash 1:1 scale and use that as my template, then see what challenges are presented to make a removable panel. If it's not a big deal, I will make it.
Since I am not covering the dash, I don't want an unfinished edge around the panel. Perhaps the edges would look okay if routed (fillet or chamfer) and flamed. Maybe I can find an affordable carbon sheet. Man, that stuff is $$$$.
I am going to print (plot) my dash 1:1 scale and use that as my template, then see what challenges are presented to make a removable panel. If it's not a big deal, I will make it.
Since I am not covering the dash, I don't want an unfinished edge around the panel. Perhaps the edges would look okay if routed (fillet or chamfer) and flamed. Maybe I can find an affordable carbon sheet. Man, that stuff is $$$$.
When the instruments get here, I will make a cardboard dash panel and see how everything fits. That will tell me if I can make the panel removable.
With a little "kitty hair" and Bondo, the dash crack is now as smooth as (fill in the blank)...
This battery cutoff is from Watson's Street Works and is designed to work with a remote control.
The in-line fuel pumps are Walbro 255 lph. The lower filters are 100 micron Peterson AN-6. These will feed into a Y-block and a 45 micron filter into a regulator. The LS7 has a "returnless" fuel rail, so the fuel will go out of the regulator pressure guage port to the rail. The return line comes out of the bottom of the regulator and will be split to both tanks using the upper -6 port by the filler. The bottom edge of the pump is just above the bottom edge of the chassis.
With a little "kitty hair" and Bondo, the dash crack is now as smooth as (fill in the blank)...
This battery cutoff is from Watson's Street Works and is designed to work with a remote control.
The in-line fuel pumps are Walbro 255 lph. The lower filters are 100 micron Peterson AN-6. These will feed into a Y-block and a 45 micron filter into a regulator. The LS7 has a "returnless" fuel rail, so the fuel will go out of the regulator pressure guage port to the rail. The return line comes out of the bottom of the regulator and will be split to both tanks using the upper -6 port by the filler. The bottom edge of the pump is just above the bottom edge of the chassis.
Steve_D said:
Put down your tools and go install some lights in that fabulous workshop then you, and we, will be able to see what the hells going on in there.
Steve
Ha! This weekend is my last intructing weekend at the track for the season. I am not going anywhere, or doing anything else, until it is running. Steve
I will try to illuminate the photos a little more. My low-light vision is getting really good! Pretty soon, I will be able to work with no light at all.
Scott,
Ditto on the lighting. It looks like you're on some sort of movie set or something.
What are you planning for the rear trans mount? I had to fabricate one but I was wondering if you had another solution.
Also, where are you mounting your dry sump? I've mounted mine about 5" behind the a/c dryer and it seems to fit well and keeps the lines as short as possible.
Paul
Ditto on the lighting. It looks like you're on some sort of movie set or something.
What are you planning for the rear trans mount? I had to fabricate one but I was wondering if you had another solution.
Also, where are you mounting your dry sump? I've mounted mine about 5" behind the a/c dryer and it seems to fit well and keeps the lines as short as possible.
Paul
Edited by San Diego GTR on Saturday 20th October 21:20
Crazy of Cookham said:
Interesting to dry fit engine so early on im build. Did you really go to the trouble of putting on the gearbox as well? cannot see how it would have gone in otherwise. Just put mine back in over weekend and not a job I would choose to do too often!
Yes, the trans is bolted to the engine, but no clutch or starter with the test fit. It doesn't take long with the engine hoist...maybe half an hour. The adapter plate is bolted to the trans. I guess this won't be possible with the actual install. For the test fit, it's really only two pieces...engine and trans.There are a few items I wanted to test for; trans mounts, dry-sump oil lines, fuel balance pipe, shift cable lengths, throttle cable length, trans fluid pump and cooler location...
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