plaster coving..what adhesive
Discussion
I earnt my living doing this for 25 years.
We'd use watered down unibond on the wall and on the "strike-off" on the back of the cornice and then use casting plaster to stick it up with. The unibond was to kill the suction and you'd have to time the plaster going off just right to stick it up with. You'd then use the plaster to make good joints/mitres and do the "running stopping"
Easy when you had the experience.
Having said that, a bag of artex (or even tile adhesive) and a few tacks to support it would do an 'amateur" just fine,
One tip I'd make is to use a chalk line to mark the depth of it and then a few tacks nailed on it would help you "sit" the cornice in the right place.
Oh, and we never bothered to much about cutting a mitre "just right" as few corners are 90 degrees and making them good was all part of the fun plus we used to put a few strands of hessian dipped in casting plaster in the joints to stop them cracking as they dried out..
We'd use watered down unibond on the wall and on the "strike-off" on the back of the cornice and then use casting plaster to stick it up with. The unibond was to kill the suction and you'd have to time the plaster going off just right to stick it up with. You'd then use the plaster to make good joints/mitres and do the "running stopping"
Easy when you had the experience.
Having said that, a bag of artex (or even tile adhesive) and a few tacks to support it would do an 'amateur" just fine,
One tip I'd make is to use a chalk line to mark the depth of it and then a few tacks nailed on it would help you "sit" the cornice in the right place.
Oh, and we never bothered to much about cutting a mitre "just right" as few corners are 90 degrees and making them good was all part of the fun plus we used to put a few strands of hessian dipped in casting plaster in the joints to stop them cracking as they dried out..
enn and
I went there once and I've got to admit their unit was a very impressive place and the quality was A1.
I used to work for a mickey mouse outfit in the midlands who used to have ideas way above their limit!
Used to do a lot of sub work for Clark & Fenn and Jacksons down in London at one time.
Got to be honest though- I'm glad I'm out of it now
herbialfa said:
How the feck do you know that????
well- you live in Norfolk and there's not much there in my memory apart from Stevensons in the Fibrous plastering world I went there once and I've got to admit their unit was a very impressive place and the quality was A1.
I used to work for a mickey mouse outfit in the midlands who used to have ideas way above their limit!
Used to do a lot of sub work for Clark & Fenn and Jacksons down in London at one time.
Got to be honest though- I'm glad I'm out of it now
Edited by stuartmmcfc on Thursday 4th October 20:57
Brian- TBH we had very little to do with Stevensons (apart from losing Contracts to them ), Keiths name rings a bell, I googled him and he was at Merry Hills shopping centre in the late 80s and i've got a feeling thats where i might have first come across him. Long time ago now- I'll speak to my old boss later and see if he knows him.
OP- sorry to have turned a bit of your thread into "ornamental Plasterers reunited". but there seems to be plenty of good advice so far- but i really would support any plaster coving on some nails/pins etc until its secure until you're competent at it.
OP- sorry to have turned a bit of your thread into "ornamental Plasterers reunited". but there seems to be plenty of good advice so far- but i really would support any plaster coving on some nails/pins etc until its secure until you're competent at it.
Edited by stuartmmcfc on Friday 5th October 09:27
I fitted plaster coving once and used cove adhesive - and depsite being fairly competent at DIY found it difficult. The coving sucked the moisture out of the adhesive and the 'buttered' length of coving was very heavy - as a result I had to use some supporting pins as well. Sections over the stairs had to be screwed in place with triangular blocks behind.
The next time I used paper-covered foam coving, which weighs nothing, and stuck it in place with No-more-nails-type stuff. It looks just like the real thing and is a doddle to put up - a 'no-brainer' IMHO.
I have no idea why people use plaster coving now.
The next time I used paper-covered foam coving, which weighs nothing, and stuck it in place with No-more-nails-type stuff. It looks just like the real thing and is a doddle to put up - a 'no-brainer' IMHO.
I have no idea why people use plaster coving now.
Don't wind me up with " the polysterene stuff is as good as plaster cornice"
Perhaps if you aren't that fussy but try telling that to people like "The National Trust'.
It looks rubbish (IMHO) but if tats your taste who am i to say different!
ps- if the coving sucks the moisture out of the adhesive thats what the watered down unibond is for.
Perhaps if you aren't that fussy but try telling that to people like "The National Trust'.
It looks rubbish (IMHO) but if tats your taste who am i to say different!
ps- if the coving sucks the moisture out of the adhesive thats what the watered down unibond is for.
Edited by stuartmmcfc on Friday 5th October 15:10
stuartmmcfc said:
Don't wind me up with " the polysterene stuff is as good as plaster cornice"
Perhaps if you aren't that fussy but try telling that to people like "The National Trust'.
It looks rubbish (IMHO) but if tats your taste who am i to say different!
Joe Bloggs coving his house, and English Heritage renovating an NT property are two rather different things.Perhaps if you aren't that fussy but try telling that to people like "The National Trust'.
It looks rubbish (IMHO) but if tats your taste who am i to say different!
I wasn't referring to the polystyrene stuff, on which you can see the little circles, but paper covered foam. Plaster cove is covered with paper as well. Paper looks the same whether on top of plaster of foam
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