Tiling on concrete floor

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Discussion

Esseesse

Original Poster:

8,969 posts

210 months

Wednesday 18th March 2015
quotequote all
Hi everyone, I have a conservatory with a horrid green thin felt-like carpet and underlay on the floor. Underneath is nice flat concrete as far as I can tell from pulling up the corner.

I'm intending to tile it with some terracotta/quarry tiles. Do I need to do anything first or can I tile straight on to the concrete? I have done some tiling successfully before, but only walls onto a surface that I had just removed old tiles from.

Thanks!

its hot

168 posts

114 months

Wednesday 18th March 2015
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as long as its level just straight on plan the tiles first dont start at one edge ideally get a centre line from all sides and work out to the edges

toohuge

3,436 posts

218 months

Wednesday 18th March 2015
quotequote all
You'll be fine tiling straight on....

Don't be tempted to add too much water to your mud, keep it nice and thick. I have found it easier to tile this way and use the mud to correct any inconsistencies on the concrete.


Pheo

3,348 posts

204 months

Wednesday 18th March 2015
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You might want to think about insulating the slab a little, otherwise that floor is going to be quite cold. Ours is!

Salesy

850 posts

131 months

Wednesday 18th March 2015
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Or even add electric underfloor heating.

loughran

2,778 posts

138 months

Wednesday 18th March 2015
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Aye, I just installed Warmup loose wire underfloor heating under tiles in the shower room and toilet. Easy to do, not too expensive and very effective. And you don't have to use it if you're feeling tight but you can if you're feeling nippy.

B17NNS

18,506 posts

249 months

Wednesday 18th March 2015
quotequote all
As above, fine to tile straight onto it. If you're going to add electric underfloor heating you'll need to use flexible adhesive and grout.

m4ckg

625 posts

193 months

Thursday 19th March 2015
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I'd be tempted to prime it first

blade7

11,311 posts

218 months

Thursday 19th March 2015
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Or put hardener on it.

Esseesse

Original Poster:

8,969 posts

210 months

Thursday 19th March 2015
quotequote all
Thanks for the replies, and yes I can see that keeping the mud thick to even out inconsistencies makes sense. I did similar on some of the kitchen walls I did.

Why prime it/put hardener on it?

Are there any options for thin insulation of the slab? The underfloor heating is a nice idea, but I'm inclined to keep it simple and for people to wear slippers if they can't cope.

Esseesse

Original Poster:

8,969 posts

210 months

Thursday 19th March 2015
quotequote all
I've read about thin (but expensive) 'aerogel' insulation. Any good for this purpose?

toohuge

3,436 posts

218 months

Thursday 19th March 2015
quotequote all
Where is this floor? I.e. is it just a slab, with nothing underneath it?

You may not want to grout all the way around the edge of the floor that you lay. I have seen a few problems with the building settling and tiles popping up, which isn't ideal. To avoid this, man tilers simply use silicone on the the edges to allow for expansion / movement.

voicey

2,456 posts

189 months

Thursday 19th March 2015
quotequote all
I stuck down 10mm XPS insulation onto our slab with a cement based tile adhesive. Once that had gone off I then stuck the tiles down to the XPS with the same adhesive. Dead easy and the tiles are lovely to walk on.

stanwan

1,897 posts

228 months

Thursday 19th March 2015
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Consider using an insulated tile backer board and then laying some UFH matting on top -It'll improve response and heat retention. AS an alternative to silicone, consider schluter maintenance free perimeter profiles...

Esseesse

Original Poster:

8,969 posts

210 months

Thursday 19th March 2015
quotequote all
Thanks for the tips on the edging, I hadn't thought of the slab moving slightly vs the walls. As far as I know it's just a slab with nothing underneath it. It's the floor of the conservatory in the house I've moved to recently. It's probably about 10 years old, and a reasonably nice conservatory (hard wood), although it has a plastic roof rather than glass.

What's the difference between insulated tile backer and XPS insulation? These do seem like a good idea, and 10mm should be easy enough to deal with.

monthefish

20,449 posts

233 months

Thursday 19th March 2015
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stanwan said:
Consider using an insulated tile backer board and then laying some UFH matting on top -It'll improve response and heat retention.
yes
False economy not to insulate first (if you've got the space/depth - The insul boards are about 20mm thick from memory)

m4ckg

625 posts

193 months

Thursday 19th March 2015
quotequote all
Esseesse said:
Thanks for the replies, and yes I can see that keeping the mud thick to even out inconsistencies makes sense. I did similar on some of the kitchen walls I did.

Why prime it/put hardener on it?

Are there any options for thin insulation of the slab? The underfloor heating is a nice idea, but I'm inclined to keep it simple and for people to wear slippers if they can't cope.
Google primer for concrete floors and you'll get the correct answer. Under no circumstances use pva to prime the floor

B17NNS

18,506 posts

249 months

Thursday 19th March 2015
quotequote all
m4ckg said:
Google primer for concrete floors and you'll get the correct answer. Under no circumstances use pva to prime the floor
Why? You're applying a cement based adhesive onto a cement based floor. It's not a bathroom. A lick of PVA will control the suction and improve the bond. What's the issue with PVA?

By all means use BAL primer or SBR if you're feeling flush but it's really not necessary for this application.

Edited by B17NNS on Thursday 19th March 20:09

Neil - YVM

1,310 posts

201 months

Thursday 19th March 2015
quotequote all
B17NNS said:
m4ckg said:
Google primer for concrete floors and you'll get the correct answer. Under no circumstances use pva to prime the floor
Why? You're applying a cement based adhesive onto a cement based floor. It's not a bathroom. A lick of PVA will control the suction and improve the bond. What's the issue with PVA?

By all means use BAL primer or SBR if you're feeling flush but it's really not necessary for this application.

Edited by B17NNS on Thursday 19th March 20:09
Seriously PVA has no place whilst tiling.

PVA forms a skin, and prevents the adhesive bonding to the surface as the manufacturer intended.

Hence the use of PVA will render the guarantee void, from all the leading adhesive manufacturers , ie Bal, Ardex, Granfix, Nicobond.
I have to guarantee our work, so would never do anything but follow the manufacturers instructions.

m4ckg

625 posts

193 months

Thursday 19th March 2015
quotequote all
B17NNS said:
Why? You're applying a cement based adhesive onto a cement based floor. It's not a bathroom. A lick of PVA will control the suction and improve the bond. What's the issue with PVA?

By all means use BAL primer or SBR if you're feeling flush but it's really not necessary for this application.

Edited by B17NNS on Thursday 19th March 20:09
I'm not a tiler myself but the contractors I use work to high standards so I'll always take their advice.

Taken from a tilers forum:

DO NOT use standard PVA on any tile base, it remains water soluble & will reactivate if it gets wet; use an acrylic/SBR tile primer/bonding coat.

I