Restoring a Steamer Trunk
Discussion
I bought a steamer trunk yesterday as it seemed to have a similar shape/style to one I already own and I wouldn't mind another. Anyway, it is in need of some TLC and was hoping someone could answer questions or offer any general advice.
1) What is the best way of getting that white paint off the trunk? It covers metal and wood.
2) Can someone recommend a way of then bringing the wood back to a nice finish as I imagine it will be grotty?
3) It doesn't have keys. Are these locks opened by generic keys? Can I buy them anywhere?
4) Any general pointers to a complete novice would be great!
If I can get it looking anything at all like the other trunk, that would be amazing.
Pics below -
1) What is the best way of getting that white paint off the trunk? It covers metal and wood.
2) Can someone recommend a way of then bringing the wood back to a nice finish as I imagine it will be grotty?
3) It doesn't have keys. Are these locks opened by generic keys? Can I buy them anywhere?
4) Any general pointers to a complete novice would be great!
If I can get it looking anything at all like the other trunk, that would be amazing.
Pics below -
8-P said:
I didn't think it would be that simple! Thanks.Although, saying that all the reviews give it 1 star! Blaming the new formula on EU regulation. So, if you want better strippers, vote leave.
Edited by FrankAbagnale on Wednesday 22 June 11:07
If you're lucky it will be but in our experience Nitromors = "doo, doo".
Picture below shows Nitromors applied to a gaol cell door (so similar combination of materials and heavily overpainted) we restored for part of an interior scheme. We applied the Nitromors before we started up the heat gun....
This was the alleged full strength, extra specially dangerous, military grade stuff...
Picture below shows Nitromors applied to a gaol cell door (so similar combination of materials and heavily overpainted) we restored for part of an interior scheme. We applied the Nitromors before we started up the heat gun....
This was the alleged full strength, extra specially dangerous, military grade stuff...
FrankAbagnale said:
I didn't think it would be that simple! Thanks.
Although, saying that all the reviews give it 1 star! Blaming the new formula on EU regulation. So, if you want better strippers, vote leave.
Ha oh dear. I used it recently on my meter boxes and it worked pretty well but the bottle had been in the garage for years. Replaced it too just as a good to have in the garage. WIsh I hadnt now, its not cheap either!Although, saying that all the reviews give it 1 star! Blaming the new formula on EU regulation. So, if you want better strippers, vote leave.
Edited by FrankAbagnale on Wednesday 22 June 11:07
FrankAbagnale said:
I didn't think it would be that simple! Thanks.
Although, saying that all the reviews give it 1 star! Blaming the new formula on EU regulation. So, if you want better strippers, vote leave.
Ha oh dear. I used it recently on my meter boxes and it worked pretty well but the bottle had been in the garage for years. Replaced it too just as a good to have in the garage. WIsh I hadnt now, its not cheap either!Although, saying that all the reviews give it 1 star! Blaming the new formula on EU regulation. So, if you want better strippers, vote leave.
Edited by FrankAbagnale on Wednesday 22 June 11:07
GnuBee said:
If you're lucky it will be but in our experience Nitromors = "doo, doo".
Picture below shows Nitromors applied to a gaol cell door (so similar combination of materials and heavily overpainted) we restored for part of an interior scheme. We applied the Nitromors before we started up the heat gun....
This was the alleged full strength, extra specially dangerous, military grade stuff...
Oooh a cell door, what did it get used for? I have one in my cellar (an impulse ebay purchase) and have been wondering where to use it, it's a non standard size so will either need buiding up or a smaller frame making, I was going to use it in my old house on the downstairs loo but never got around to it. Mine is also heavily overpainted so I had thought to get it dipped in caustic soda, I do know someone who is quite gentle with dipping, but have seen some horrors.Picture below shows Nitromors applied to a gaol cell door (so similar combination of materials and heavily overpainted) we restored for part of an interior scheme. We applied the Nitromors before we started up the heat gun....
This was the alleged full strength, extra specially dangerous, military grade stuff...
If using a heat gun do be careful with the fumes in case you have lead based paint on there.
JungleJim said:
off topic, but whats your flooring?
It's an Oak laminate. One of the best value purchases I have ever made and the supplier was brilliant. Link below -
http://www.flooringsupplies.co.uk/laminate/15391/k...
JungleJim said:
Oh, I was hoping it was Karndean (we're having some fitted in a few weeks, and I've started to worry about its ability to withstand wear and tear, and whether our house will end up looking a mobile phone shop)
I'm sure it will be fine. From memory they got good reviews when I was researching - the more expensive higher quality version of mine.Same company sells Karndean with lots of 5* reviews -
http://www.flooringsupplies.co.uk/karndean
Edited by FrankAbagnale on Wednesday 22 June 13:41
FrankAbagnale said:
I'm sure it will be fine. From memory they got good reviews when I was researching - the more expensive higher quality version of mine.
Same company sells Karndean with lots of 5* reviews -
http://www.flooringsupplies.co.uk/karndean
trouble with the internet is that you can also find plenty of poor reviews, and me being the pessimist believes those more!Same company sells Karndean with lots of 5* reviews -
http://www.flooringsupplies.co.uk/karndean
Edited by FrankAbagnale on Wednesday 22 June 13:41
We're having the Karndean Art Select, £42 a square metre which is why I'm starting to worry!
FailHere said:
Oooh a cell door, what did it get used for? I have one in my cellar (an impulse ebay purchase) and have been wondering where to use it, it's a non standard size so will either need buiding up or a smaller frame making, I was going to use it in my old house on the downstairs loo but never got around to it. Mine is also heavily overpainted so I had thought to get it dipped in caustic soda, I do know someone who is quite gentle with dipping, but have seen some horrors.
If using a heat gun do be careful with the fumes in case you have lead based paint on there.
It was used for an under the stairs cupboard. Pictures before/after below:If using a heat gun do be careful with the fumes in case you have lead based paint on there.
Before (in a field somewhere in Wales)
After - client wanted the metal left "raw" so we lacquered it and then painted the wood. They were very lucky as the door still had the original lock and functioning key
If you feel the need for proper paint stripper either buy some Synstryp (car paint stripper basically the same as the old thick Nitromors) or buy some straight Dichloromethane which is the main active ingredient and would give you something similar to the thin 'craftsman' Nitromors.
Of course Synstryp is for pro use and Dichloromethane only for use as a degreaser not paint stripping...
Either of the above is much cheaper than Nitromors is these days and will work well, and no risk of heat damage as with a heat gun.
Of course Synstryp is for pro use and Dichloromethane only for use as a degreaser not paint stripping...
Either of the above is much cheaper than Nitromors is these days and will work well, and no risk of heat damage as with a heat gun.
Jonesy23 said:
If you feel the need for proper paint stripper either buy some Synstryp (car paint stripper basically the same as the old thick Nitromors) or buy some straight Dichloromethane which is the main active ingredient and would give you something similar to the thin 'craftsman' Nitromors.
Of course Synstryp is for pro use and Dichloromethane only for use as a degreaser not paint stripping...
Either of the above is much cheaper than Nitromors is these days and will work well, and no risk of heat damage as with a heat gun.
Thank youOf course Synstryp is for pro use and Dichloromethane only for use as a degreaser not paint stripping...
Either of the above is much cheaper than Nitromors is these days and will work well, and no risk of heat damage as with a heat gun.
I recently stripped an oak chest of d with caustic soda, mixed it 1% w/v, sprayed it on, scraped it. Nice and gentle, wire wool scourer for tough bits, no damage.
Check the metal bits for corrosion by the caustic, if it's steel it will be fine, but ally will be corroded.
Safety tip - caustic soda (sodium hydroxide) is corrosive and will burn you. It will blind you if you get it in your eyes. Take appropriate precautions.
Check the metal bits for corrosion by the caustic, if it's steel it will be fine, but ally will be corroded.
Safety tip - caustic soda (sodium hydroxide) is corrosive and will burn you. It will blind you if you get it in your eyes. Take appropriate precautions.
1% caustic soda pearls by weight to 99% water (by volume). It's chemist speak.
It means 1g caustic in 99mL water (99g water if you like)
This amount is not prescriptive, turn it up if it's not making the paint soften. I used it on old fashioned varnish and it ripped it off in no time. I make it up in a spray bottle, wear rubber gloves, goggles and overalls, and spray it on. Scrape off the goo with a flat scraper. Repeat as necessary until you get clean wood.
It means 1g caustic in 99mL water (99g water if you like)
This amount is not prescriptive, turn it up if it's not making the paint soften. I used it on old fashioned varnish and it ripped it off in no time. I make it up in a spray bottle, wear rubber gloves, goggles and overalls, and spray it on. Scrape off the goo with a flat scraper. Repeat as necessary until you get clean wood.
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