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It’s down to the way they make the lights dim.. you get weird results with LEDs and traditional dimmers -
https://www.electricalcounter.co.uk/types-of-dimme...
Might need to look for dimmer switches that are of ‘trailing edge’ design
https://www.electricalcounter.co.uk/types-of-dimme...
Might need to look for dimmer switches that are of ‘trailing edge’ design
GTS_uk said:
ruggedscotty said:
ok....
oven rating. ? what does the instruction book state as the feed for each oven
existing you said 3 pin plug. is it a 13A style plug ?
32A RCD - unless its an rcbo then an RCD isnt an overcurrent, its differential. more than 30mA device will trip. 32a is the rating of the load capacity.
Ive seen ovens wired back to consumer unit and individual 16A MCB for each one. id run 2.5mm twin and e to the outlets. over rated but i dont know how far from the kitchen your consumer unit is.
what your saying is to swap out the socket to spur, that would be fine if cable is flex. i like to keep plug socket though as it lets me pull out the oven for cleaning fixing etc.
Thanks for your help here.oven rating. ? what does the instruction book state as the feed for each oven
existing you said 3 pin plug. is it a 13A style plug ?
32A RCD - unless its an rcbo then an RCD isnt an overcurrent, its differential. more than 30mA device will trip. 32a is the rating of the load capacity.
Ive seen ovens wired back to consumer unit and individual 16A MCB for each one. id run 2.5mm twin and e to the outlets. over rated but i dont know how far from the kitchen your consumer unit is.
what your saying is to swap out the socket to spur, that would be fine if cable is flex. i like to keep plug socket though as it lets me pull out the oven for cleaning fixing etc.
According to the manual - The max loading is 3.5kW
My existing ovens have 13A style plugs, and you're right, wrong terminology from me re RCD. 32A on each oven 'breaker' in the consumer unit.
New oven says 16A, so they may need changing. Also says "hard wired only'.
For reference, this is the new oven in question - https://www.aeg.co.uk/kitchen/cooking/ovens/oven/b...
I'd assume as they are plugs, on an oven circuit and on a new(ish) build - they should be wired with 2.5mm twin and earth already? I guess I'll see when I take the oven out!
On the assumption that's the case, and with a switch to 16A, sounds like it should be ok?
Thanks again for your help here!
Looks like I should be
So, in principle, swapping the socket for a spur and
You can get a connection point - different from a spur.
https://www.screwfix.com/p/crabtree-instinct-20a-u...
put this were the socket was hardwire the oven into here. This goes to the switch and then back to the consumer. you need protection for this MCB sized to protect the circuit and appliance.
miniman said:
In theory yes. However I have given up trying to drive LED strip transformers in my kitchen with top-end (Varilight Pro) dimmers as they just flicker and misbehave.
Really, that’s disappointing.My electrician said i should go ahead and get the fancy switches inwant and he would fit the Varilight dimmers into it…. But your saying that hasn’t worked either?
DoubleSix said:
Really, that’s disappointing.
My electrician said i should go ahead and get the fancy switches inwant and he would fit the Varilight dimmers into it…. But your saying that hasn’t worked either?
I have a 9-way grid. The V-Pro dimmers work fine with GU10 downlighters but I have given up on using them to drive LED strip which I have under counter, and in roof lantern. When they worked, the amount of dimming available was trivial, and on anything other than max brightness they tended to flicker. My electrician said i should go ahead and get the fancy switches inwant and he would fit the Varilight dimmers into it…. But your saying that hasn’t worked either?
ruggedscotty said:
Spur means a spur from the ringmain. Spur has to be fused. 13A. there are details in the 18th edition for the requirements of electrical installations.
You can get a connection point - different from a spur.
https://www.screwfix.com/p/crabtree-instinct-20a-u...
put this were the socket was hardwire the oven into here. This goes to the switch and then back to the consumer. you need protection for this MCB sized to protect the circuit and appliance.
Great. Thanks for your help. Appreciate it!You can get a connection point - different from a spur.
https://www.screwfix.com/p/crabtree-instinct-20a-u...
put this were the socket was hardwire the oven into here. This goes to the switch and then back to the consumer. you need protection for this MCB sized to protect the circuit and appliance.
Yes, spur is a branch off a ring. You can have one socket outlet (single or double) unfused, but any more needs a 13A FCU.
A radial is a single cable from the consumer unit feeding a line of sockets, without making a ring at all. Typically on a 16A or 20A MCB.
A dedicated feed is a single cable which goes all the way from the consumer unit to a single appliance, such as a large oven/hob or electric shower.
A radial is a single cable from the consumer unit feeding a line of sockets, without making a ring at all. Typically on a 16A or 20A MCB.
A dedicated feed is a single cable which goes all the way from the consumer unit to a single appliance, such as a large oven/hob or electric shower.
Having just extended the ring in my garage and added 6 new double sockets i've rather enjoyed doing the work. We are due to have an extension next year and the quotes for electrical work are eye watering, including adding new cabling for induction hobs etc. I've had some terrible unsafe work done by NICEIC chaps in the past which has led to a bad taste in my mouth for future work which got me thinking.
How much effort is involved in me doing my own Part P cert so I can do my own electric work at my own house and have it signed off by me? Do i need anything else before i can do a replacement CU?
Edit - strictly talking paperwork here, not tools etc.
How much effort is involved in me doing my own Part P cert so I can do my own electric work at my own house and have it signed off by me? Do i need anything else before i can do a replacement CU?
Edit - strictly talking paperwork here, not tools etc.
bmwmike said:
Having just extended the ring in my garage and added 6 new double sockets i've rather enjoyed doing the work. We are due to have an extension next year and the quotes for electrical work are eye watering, including adding new cabling for induction hobs etc. I've had some terrible unsafe work done by NICEIC chaps in the past which has led to a bad taste in my mouth for future work which got me thinking.
How much effort is involved in me doing my own Part P cert so I can do my own electric work at my own house and have it signed off by me? Do i need anything else before i can do a replacement CU?
Edit - strictly talking paperwork here, not tools etc.
https://electrical.theiet.org/bs-7671/building-regulations/part-p-england-and-wales/certification-schemes/How much effort is involved in me doing my own Part P cert so I can do my own electric work at my own house and have it signed off by me? Do i need anything else before i can do a replacement CU?
Edit - strictly talking paperwork here, not tools etc.
ruggedscotty said:
Thanks.link said:
The competency requirements for the Part P schemes are specified in the Electrotechnical Assessment Scheme (EAS)
but the link is broken so I can't get the requirements. Lol.Can you give me an idea of how much effort it would be to go from DIY to Part P and cost?
I see I need to join niceic so I can look at those reqs too, presume it's a paid sub.
Is it a bonkers idea? I've got plenty of free time in my regular job I could probably do a few hours a day as a sparkie too
Edited by bmwmike on Monday 6th November 21:35
miniman said:
I have a 9-way grid. The V-Pro dimmers work fine with GU10 downlighters but I have given up on using them to drive LED strip which I have under counter, and in roof lantern. When they worked, the amount of dimming available was trivial, and on anything other than max brightness they tended to flicker.
V pro dimmers have a program mode by which you can adjust low dimming cutoff and dimming modes. Google it. If they're definitely dimmable drivers (technically it isn't a transformer that led strip uses) then it should dim but there are different techs that don't all talk nicely to each other, hence why I carry a box of several different brands of dimmer module.bmwmike said:
Having just extended the ring in my garage and added 6 new double sockets i've rather enjoyed doing the work. We are due to have an extension next year and the quotes for electrical work are eye watering, including adding new cabling for induction hobs etc. I've had some terrible unsafe work done by NICEIC chaps in the past which has led to a bad taste in my mouth for future work which got me thinking.
How much effort is involved in me doing my own Part P cert so I can do my own electric work at my own house and have it signed off by me? Do i need anything else before i can do a replacement CU?
Edit - strictly talking paperwork here, not tools etc.
I'm not sure what the rules and processes are and it varies by borough, but there should be a way that you can do your own install and have it signed off by BC with no need to be regd. Speak to your local BC. Getting regd would be a PITA for a one off. it's a PITA for a full-time sparksHow much effort is involved in me doing my own Part P cert so I can do my own electric work at my own house and have it signed off by me? Do i need anything else before i can do a replacement CU?
Edit - strictly talking paperwork here, not tools etc.
Teddy Lop said:
V pro dimmers have a program mode by which you can adjust low dimming cutoff and dimming modes. Google it. If they're definitely dimmable drivers (technically it isn't a transformer that led strip uses) then it should dim but there are different techs that don't all talk nicely to each other, hence why I carry a box of several different brands of dimmer module.
Thanks for this.I spoke with the kitchen supplier today (Schmidt) and they were very confident that the strips are commonly dimmed as their drivers are dimmable.
They’re gonna drop one in so i can test.
Teddy Lop said:
miniman said:
I have a 9-way grid. The V-Pro dimmers work fine with GU10 downlighters but I have given up on using them to drive LED strip which I have under counter, and in roof lantern. When they worked, the amount of dimming available was trivial, and on anything other than max brightness they tended to flicker.
V pro dimmers have a program mode by which you can adjust low dimming cutoff and dimming modes. Google it. If they're definitely dimmable drivers (technically it isn't a transformer that led strip uses) then it should dim but there are different techs that don't all talk nicely to each other, hence why I carry a box of several different brands of dimmer module.DoubleSix said:
Teddy Lop said:
V pro dimmers have a program mode by which you can adjust low dimming cutoff and dimming modes. Google it. If they're definitely dimmable drivers (technically it isn't a transformer that led strip uses) then it should dim but there are different techs that don't all talk nicely to each other, hence why I carry a box of several different brands of dimmer module.
Thanks for this.I spoke with the kitchen supplier today (Schmidt) and they were very confident that the strips are commonly dimmed as their drivers are dimmable.
They’re gonna drop one in so i can test.
Some stuff particularly the kind of stuff supplied by a kitchen outfit can be quite different and dims using a post-transformer/PSU controller, so while "it dims" the driver is a non-dimmable unit that needs a fixed supply.
Teddy Lop said:
DoubleSix said:
Teddy Lop said:
V pro dimmers have a program mode by which you can adjust low dimming cutoff and dimming modes. Google it. If they're definitely dimmable drivers (technically it isn't a transformer that led strip uses) then it should dim but there are different techs that don't all talk nicely to each other, hence why I carry a box of several different brands of dimmer module.
Thanks for this.I spoke with the kitchen supplier today (Schmidt) and they were very confident that the strips are commonly dimmed as their drivers are dimmable.
They’re gonna drop one in so i can test.
Some stuff particularly the kind of stuff supplied by a kitchen outfit can be quite different and dims using a post-transformer/PSU controller, so while "it dims" the driver is a non-dimmable unit that needs a fixed supply.
Interestingly ive ordered a load of led strips to be plastered in as part of our extension project and they come from a company that supplies dimmers so it is certainly a thing that should be achievable.
Advice sought on getting power for an AGA therostat, ideally from a fused spur.
We currently have a 2 ring Bosch PKC345EGB 2900W ceramic hob sunk into a granite worktop. Power appears to be spurred off a ring main with 2.5mm cable to a 13A fused switch located in a base unit below.
I need to fit a 13A socket adjacent or near to it for a small transformer to power an oil fired AGA thermostat.
Should I fit a fused switch 13A + socket combo like this:
https://www.directtradesupplies.co.uk/product.php/...
(that's the only one of that type I can find, most are not fused)
or would it be acceptable to remove the fused switch and fit a 2 gang 13A socket in its place, and fit a 13A plug to the hob lead. The thermostat transformer in the second socket. This is the cheaper option as I have a socket and back box already here.
Would very much like to do it properly, and to meet regs. Thoughts, please.
Thanks in advance.
PS does the double socket have to be dual pole of will single pole suffice?
We currently have a 2 ring Bosch PKC345EGB 2900W ceramic hob sunk into a granite worktop. Power appears to be spurred off a ring main with 2.5mm cable to a 13A fused switch located in a base unit below.
I need to fit a 13A socket adjacent or near to it for a small transformer to power an oil fired AGA thermostat.
Should I fit a fused switch 13A + socket combo like this:
https://www.directtradesupplies.co.uk/product.php/...
(that's the only one of that type I can find, most are not fused)
or would it be acceptable to remove the fused switch and fit a 2 gang 13A socket in its place, and fit a 13A plug to the hob lead. The thermostat transformer in the second socket. This is the cheaper option as I have a socket and back box already here.
Would very much like to do it properly, and to meet regs. Thoughts, please.
Thanks in advance.
PS does the double socket have to be dual pole of will single pole suffice?
Edited by Tim O on Tuesday 14th November 16:09
Brother has a first floor flat, maisonette. the main fuse keeps blowing on the ground floor flats incomer fuse.
Brothers flat is supplied power from the flat below, so incomer ground floor flat 60-80amp fuse then to the ground floor flat consumer unit, from there a cable runs up to my brothers flat above to feed his consumer unit.
This was put in probably 60~ or more years ago by the Electricity Board the fuse kept blowing and the DNO disconnected the tails to his Flat, DNO say that the riser cable is the responsibility of my brother. Is that true? I thought the demarcation point is everything before the meter is the DNO's responsibility??
Brothers flat is supplied power from the flat below, so incomer ground floor flat 60-80amp fuse then to the ground floor flat consumer unit, from there a cable runs up to my brothers flat above to feed his consumer unit.
This was put in probably 60~ or more years ago by the Electricity Board the fuse kept blowing and the DNO disconnected the tails to his Flat, DNO say that the riser cable is the responsibility of my brother. Is that true? I thought the demarcation point is everything before the meter is the DNO's responsibility??
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