Solid wood flooring, is it really this difficult?!
Discussion
mind you did the OP say he's paying them a grand? 
LaurasOtherHalf said:
What. The. Actual. f
k?
Are my eyes deceiving me, or have you laid insulation on top of your concrete base and then these lot are screwing batons (through the insulation?) into your concrete sub base, then glueing your engineered oak flooring onto the batons?
Hopefully it’s not UFHk?Are my eyes deceiving me, or have you laid insulation on top of your concrete base and then these lot are screwing batons (through the insulation?) into your concrete sub base, then glueing your engineered oak flooring onto the batons?
essayer said:
LaurasOtherHalf said:
What. The. Actual. fk?
Are my eyes deceiving me, or have you laid insulation on top of your concrete base and then these lot are screwing batons (through the insulation?) into your concrete sub base, then glueing your engineered oak flooring onto the batons?
Hopefully it’s not UFHk?Are my eyes deceiving me, or have you laid insulation on top of your concrete base and then these lot are screwing batons (through the insulation?) into your concrete sub base, then glueing your engineered oak flooring onto the batons?
Please keep updating the thread!
LaurasOtherHalf said:
What. The. Actual. fk?
Are my eyes deceiving me, or have you laid insulation on top of your concrete base and then these lot are screwing batons (through the insulation?) into your concrete sub base, then glueing your engineered oak flooring onto the batons?
Pine. Non engineered. And apparently screwing down into the concrete, but why? And the pin nailer looks straight from Screwfix, fresh in the bag and all.k?Are my eyes deceiving me, or have you laid insulation on top of your concrete base and then these lot are screwing batons (through the insulation?) into your concrete sub base, then glueing your engineered oak flooring onto the batons?
Very odd.
Having just floated an engineered oak floor throughout my kitchen/living/dining room, after having explored all options with an actual flooring expert, I can say that the T&G boards must be glued together. It’s not temperature but moisture that causes the wood to expand and contract between seasons. You will have gaps appearing all over the place. Putting it on battens (batons are for relay races) is unnecessary and stupid. Solid oak also warps a lot more than an engineered floor and with it glued to the battens I can imagine this ending up like a big waveform bouncy disaster.
I would get them to take up what they’ve done, lose the battens, plug the screw holes through your insulation and then just float the floor. Gluing the boards and being very careful not to get glue on the tops, wiping it whenever they do. After you oil or lacquer it those glue marks are very visible and there until you sand it all off again.
I would get them to take up what they’ve done, lose the battens, plug the screw holes through your insulation and then just float the floor. Gluing the boards and being very careful not to get glue on the tops, wiping it whenever they do. After you oil or lacquer it those glue marks are very visible and there until you sand it all off again.
anonymous said:
[redacted]
They obviously have no clue, doing this means the floor looks terrible once laid and you'll have an excessive amount of wastage (and it'll take 10x longer than it should!)The joins should all be random, care should be taken to ensure none of them align with any others nearby which gives a much nicer effect and isn't too taxing to do.
You really need to tell these guys 'thanks, but no thanks' and chalk it up as a lesson for all involved. Rip those battens up and start again properly.
Sorry probably not what you want to hear
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