Internal door rot repair
Discussion
anxious_ant said:
Sorry for thread revival 
I have found decent enough 4 panel internal MDF doors at around £35 from Wickes which closely matches what we have.
I've asked around for chippy for cost to hang 5 doors, and cheapest quote I got was £70 per door. I have about 5 doors to hang so this is a bit costly.
So I am thinking of trying to the doors myself. I have seen a few YouTube videos to learn about hanging doors.
Looks like I would need decent set of chisel, planer and correct diameter drill bits for the handle and locks. I am planning of using the original hinges and locks.
Can anyone offer any tips and advice or perhaps any other tools that might help?
5 mdf doors. And he wants £350 to fit them... Did he have a tracker around his ankle so the police can monitor him? If he is a real chippy it's a really easy half a days work. I have found decent enough 4 panel internal MDF doors at around £35 from Wickes which closely matches what we have.
I've asked around for chippy for cost to hang 5 doors, and cheapest quote I got was £70 per door. I have about 5 doors to hang so this is a bit costly.
So I am thinking of trying to the doors myself. I have seen a few YouTube videos to learn about hanging doors.
Looks like I would need decent set of chisel, planer and correct diameter drill bits for the handle and locks. I am planning of using the original hinges and locks.
Can anyone offer any tips and advice or perhaps any other tools that might help?
I'm not a chippy but have done lots of doors. So I'll give you one little tip and then shut up. Use the old doors as a guide to know where to put the hinges in.
And if you know someone with a track saw you will probably get away without using a planer. If you don't know someone with a tracksaw you can make a guide for a cicular saw easily enough.
As above said. I laid the old door over the new one and penciled in the hinges etc and it worked.
BTW get the correct way around only one side has a wooden block for the handle section. I messed up on one door before I realised it actually has a top and bottom oops. It was my 7th door of the 9 aswel. So I hit it lucky 6 times before that haha.
BTW get the correct way around only one side has a wooden block for the handle section. I messed up on one door before I realised it actually has a top and bottom oops. It was my 7th door of the 9 aswel. So I hit it lucky 6 times before that haha.
hotchy said:
As above said. I laid the old door over the new one and penciled in the hinges etc and it worked.
BTW get the correct way around only one side has a wooden block for the handle section. I messed up on one door before I realised it actually has a top and bottom oops. It was my 7th door of the 9 aswel. So I hit it lucky 6 times before that haha.
Doors also have a leading edge. BTW get the correct way around only one side has a wooden block for the handle section. I messed up on one door before I realised it actually has a top and bottom oops. It was my 7th door of the 9 aswel. So I hit it lucky 6 times before that haha.
So to the guy who is going to fit his own internal doors. If you need to take a bit of the width of the door make sure you do it on the side the hinge will be going. Otherwise opening and closing them will be interesting.
I have a load of old Haynes manuals which used to list jobs in terms of spanners for difficulty. Hanging a normal internal door in a modern house is a 1 or 2 spanner job at most. And is totally DIY(able). Where £70 might be reasonable is if you are handing solid hardwood doors in an old place where everything is as straight as Elton John. And even then it's only difficult if you rush it and don't take your time or have the right tools.
milkround said:
5 mdf doors. And he wants £350 to fit them... Did he have a tracker around his ankle so the police can monitor him? If he is a real chippy it's a really easy half a days work.
I'm not a chippy but have done lots of doors. So I'll give you one little tip and then shut up. Use the old doors as a guide to know where to put the hinges in.
And if you know someone with a track saw you will probably get away without using a planer. If you don't know someone with a tracksaw you can make a guide for a cicular saw easily enough.
Yes, I am a bit surprised by the quote. One even quoted £100 per door!I'm not a chippy but have done lots of doors. So I'll give you one little tip and then shut up. Use the old doors as a guide to know where to put the hinges in.
And if you know someone with a track saw you will probably get away without using a planer. If you don't know someone with a tracksaw you can make a guide for a cicular saw easily enough.
I will be reusing hinges and locks.
I have a jigsaw to trim the bottom but no issues buying a planer as they are not that expensive.
My concerns at the moment is chiselling the door lock recess. The current locks (bathroom door) have rounded edges and might require some skill with the chisels.
I have stumbled across jigs that uses trim routers which may make the job of chiselling hinge recess much easier.
Never used a router before and had a quick browse. I would prefer wired ones so I don't have to buy the battery + charger.
Big brands are very pricey, so wondering if these will do the job?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Electric-Handheld-Compact...
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Electric-Trimmer-Laminato...
Multi quote fail 
Thanks everyone for the tips. I have found a door with very close match in terms for height and width at Wickes. (at least on paper).
Might need to trim a bit off the bottom due to laminate flooring (current doors have bottom trimmed off).
As I have the old door to hand, which I can use as a template to ensure a good fit.
Just watching loads of YT videos now, and doing research on what tools to get. At £35 for one door I can afford a practice run
Thanks everyone for the tips. I have found a door with very close match in terms for height and width at Wickes. (at least on paper).
Might need to trim a bit off the bottom due to laminate flooring (current doors have bottom trimmed off).
As I have the old door to hand, which I can use as a template to ensure a good fit.
Just watching loads of YT videos now, and doing research on what tools to get. At £35 for one door I can afford a practice run
So here's my shopping list for tools. Appreciate any feedback!
Regarding the inflatable thingamabobs, are they for holding the door in place while I measure the fit?
- 3 piece Magnusson bevelled chisel ( https://www.screwfix.com/p/magnusson-bevel-edge-wo...)
- 900W Planer as I might be hanging solid wood doors in the future ( https://www.screwfix.com/p/mac-allister-mshp900-3m...)
- 510W Trim router ( https://www.amazon.co.uk/Electric-Trimmer-Laminato...)
- Router cutter set ( https://www.amazon.co.uk/flintronic%C2%AE-Tungsten...)
Regarding the inflatable thingamabobs, are they for holding the door in place while I measure the fit?
Edited by anxious_ant on Thursday 9th December 18:59
miroku1 said:
I’m astounded that anyone on here would admit to possessing mdf doors , I thought every single person had some incredibly expensive solid oak doors sourced from one of Nelsons ships etc ?!!
Nothing wrong with MDF doors We would've replaced some with wooden doors but the plan is to move out next year.
I've adjusted doors before but I'm hanging new ones into existing frames for the first time at the moment, I've got 6 to do.
A cheap 1/4" router is a boon, even if you don't want to invest in a jig to go with it is still far easier/more consistent getting 90% of the hinge/latch cuts done freehand with that then trimming up the edges with a sharp chisel than doing it entirely by hand. The inflatable bags are also great for lifting the door into position when hanging, and unless you're taking off 5mm+ off each edge and the frames are dead square then you really need a planer.
A few tips I can give is if doing a few, start on the most inconspicuous door first as you probably will make mistakes even if they're minor and barely noticeable, so best hidden away in the far reaches of the house if possible!
Also if wanting to match up existing hinge cutouts, get a length of batten or similar and hold that along the existing door and mark the hinges to transfer to the new door. If using the same hinges then the door can be the same size as the old one (assuming that fits well) but you're using new hinges be aware some have a 3mm gap when closed whereas others have much less so the door width needs to be adjusted to suit
One other good tip I picked up from a YouTube video to avoid cutting hinge holes too big. When marking out the hinge cutouts on the door use a sharp pencil obviously but don't just draw round it in one go, mark along one edge then before marking the opposite edge move the hinge slightly so it just covers up the line you've just drawn, then mark the other edge. Then if you chisel to the lines it should be a snug fit that may need the hinge lightly tapping to seat but ensures no gaps.
A cheap 1/4" router is a boon, even if you don't want to invest in a jig to go with it is still far easier/more consistent getting 90% of the hinge/latch cuts done freehand with that then trimming up the edges with a sharp chisel than doing it entirely by hand. The inflatable bags are also great for lifting the door into position when hanging, and unless you're taking off 5mm+ off each edge and the frames are dead square then you really need a planer.
A few tips I can give is if doing a few, start on the most inconspicuous door first as you probably will make mistakes even if they're minor and barely noticeable, so best hidden away in the far reaches of the house if possible!
Also if wanting to match up existing hinge cutouts, get a length of batten or similar and hold that along the existing door and mark the hinges to transfer to the new door. If using the same hinges then the door can be the same size as the old one (assuming that fits well) but you're using new hinges be aware some have a 3mm gap when closed whereas others have much less so the door width needs to be adjusted to suit
One other good tip I picked up from a YouTube video to avoid cutting hinge holes too big. When marking out the hinge cutouts on the door use a sharp pencil obviously but don't just draw round it in one go, mark along one edge then before marking the opposite edge move the hinge slightly so it just covers up the line you've just drawn, then mark the other edge. Then if you chisel to the lines it should be a snug fit that may need the hinge lightly tapping to seat but ensures no gaps.
Edited by LocoBlade on Thursday 9th December 19:07
I am a chippy, and it isn’t half a days easy work to hang 5 doors in a occupied house. On a building site it’s half a days easy work.
You also don’t use your old door for anything to help fit your new doors. You don’t draw around it, take hinge measurements of it etc..
A track saw is pretty useless too unless your door linings are perfectly straight, they usually aren’t. They only usually come in handy to cut the top and bottom of the door.
You also don’t use your old door for anything to help fit your new doors. You don’t draw around it, take hinge measurements of it etc..
A track saw is pretty useless too unless your door linings are perfectly straight, they usually aren’t. They only usually come in handy to cut the top and bottom of the door.
Edited by neth27 on Thursday 9th December 19:16
LocoBlade said:
I've adjusted doors before but I'm hanging new ones into existing frames for the first time at the moment, I've got 6 to do.
A cheap 1/4" router is a boon, even if you don't want to invest in a jig to go with it is still far easier/more consistent getting 90% of the hinge/latch cuts done freehand with that then trimming up the edges with a sharp chisel than doing it entirely by hand. The inflatable bags are also great for lifting the door into position when hanging, and unless you're taking off 5mm+ off each edge and the frames are dead square then you really need a planer.
A few tips I can give is if doing a few, start on the most inconspicuous door first as you probably will make mistakes even if they're minor and barely noticeable, so best hidden away in the far reaches of the house if possible!
Also if wanting to match up existing hinge cutouts, get a length of batten or similar and hold that along the existing door and mark the hinges to transfer to the new door. If using the same hinges then the door can be the same size as the old one (assuming that fits well) but you're using new hinges be aware some have a 3mm gap when closed whereas others have much less so the door width needs to be adjusted to suit
One other good tip I picked up from a YouTube video to avoid cutting hinge holes too big. When marking out the hinge cutouts on the door use a sharp pencil obviously but don't just draw round it in one go, mark along one edge then before marking the opposite edge move the hinge slightly so it just covers up the line you've just drawn, then mark the other edge. Then if you chisel to the lines it should be a snug fit that may need the hinge lightly tapping to seat but ensures no gaps.
Cheers! I will start with the downstairs loo which is tucked away in a corner A cheap 1/4" router is a boon, even if you don't want to invest in a jig to go with it is still far easier/more consistent getting 90% of the hinge/latch cuts done freehand with that then trimming up the edges with a sharp chisel than doing it entirely by hand. The inflatable bags are also great for lifting the door into position when hanging, and unless you're taking off 5mm+ off each edge and the frames are dead square then you really need a planer.
A few tips I can give is if doing a few, start on the most inconspicuous door first as you probably will make mistakes even if they're minor and barely noticeable, so best hidden away in the far reaches of the house if possible!
Also if wanting to match up existing hinge cutouts, get a length of batten or similar and hold that along the existing door and mark the hinges to transfer to the new door. If using the same hinges then the door can be the same size as the old one (assuming that fits well) but you're using new hinges be aware some have a 3mm gap when closed whereas others have much less so the door width needs to be adjusted to suit
One other good tip I picked up from a YouTube video to avoid cutting hinge holes too big. When marking out the hinge cutouts on the door use a sharp pencil obviously but don't just draw round it in one go, mark along one edge then before marking the opposite edge move the hinge slightly so it just covers up the line you've just drawn, then mark the other edge. Then if you chisel to the lines it should be a snug fit that may need the hinge lightly tapping to seat but ensures no gaps.
Edited by LocoBlade on Thursday 9th December 19:07
neth27 said:
I am a chippy, and it isn’t half a days easy work to hang 5 doors in a occupied house. On a building site it’s half a days easy work.
You also don’t use your old door for anything to help fit your new doors. You don’t draw around it, take hinge measurements of it etc..
A track saw is pretty useless too unless your door linings are perfectly straight, they usually aren’t. They only usually come in handy to cut the top and bottom of the door.
Thanks for the advice. I will definitely need to trim some off the bottom hence why I am looking at planers.You also don’t use your old door for anything to help fit your new doors. You don’t draw around it, take hinge measurements of it etc..
A track saw is pretty useless too unless your door linings are perfectly straight, they usually aren’t. They only usually come in handy to cut the top and bottom of the door.
Edited by neth27 on Thursday 9th December 19:16
I suppose I can use a jigsaw if I am careful.
Regarding the old door, it's just as a sense check. I will of course fit and measure the new door properly.
Agree that it would be a bit challenging hanging doors in a occupied house. I am just a little shocked at how much it costs to hang one MDF door.
anxious_ant said:
Thanks for the advice. I will definitely need to trim some off the bottom hence why I am looking at planers.
I suppose I can use a jigsaw if I am careful.
Regarding the old door, it's just as a sense check. I will of course fit and measure the new door properly.
Agree that it would be a bit challenging hanging doors in a occupied house. I am just a little shocked at how much it costs to hang one MDF door.
You can use the jigsaw to cut the bulk off the bottom of the door then use a plane to tidy it up. I suppose I can use a jigsaw if I am careful.
Regarding the old door, it's just as a sense check. I will of course fit and measure the new door properly.
Agree that it would be a bit challenging hanging doors in a occupied house. I am just a little shocked at how much it costs to hang one MDF door.
It doesn’t really matter if it’s a mdf door or a oak veneered door it’s the same work to hang it. The only difference is the weight.
I’m a chippy too and you are going to struggle to swing 5 doors in an occupied house, upstairs and clean up in half a day.
At £50/door just pay the chap.
By the time you have spent £100-£150 on billy basic naff tools you are close to half way there.
Anyone can fit a lock, the top one is mine (and even I will say it’s not 100% perfect) the customer fitted the bottom one.
At £50/door just pay the chap.
By the time you have spent £100-£150 on billy basic naff tools you are close to half way there.
Anyone can fit a lock, the top one is mine (and even I will say it’s not 100% perfect) the customer fitted the bottom one.
Gtom said:
Anyone can fit a lock, the top one is mine (and even I will say it’s not 100% perfect) the customer fitted the bottom one.
Edited by LocoBlade on Thursday 9th December 23:35
Gtom said:
I’m a chippy too and you are going to struggle to swing 5 doors in an occupied house, upstairs and clean up in half a day.
At £50/door just pay the chap.
By the time you have spent £100-£150 on billy basic naff tools you are close to half way there.
Anyone can fit a lock, the top one is mine (and even I will say it’s not 100% perfect) the customer fitted the bottom one.
Who fits a rack bolt on a toilet door? Don’t want burglars breaking in while your on the throneAt £50/door just pay the chap.
By the time you have spent £100-£150 on billy basic naff tools you are close to half way there.
Anyone can fit a lock, the top one is mine (and even I will say it’s not 100% perfect) the customer fitted the bottom one.
Cheers, might have a think to see if I should get a chippy in.
Regarding the comment about occupied house, I can wait until we move out (renting current place) and still quoted at £70-£100 per door. One door is £35 so for 5 doors I am looking at at least £550.
To me that’s considerable amount, especially if we are moving house next year. If I can limit my tool spend to under £150 I think it’s worth a punt.
I am struggling on the router. Makita cordless is nice but blew budget, and I will still need to buy a battery + charger.
Regarding the comment about occupied house, I can wait until we move out (renting current place) and still quoted at £70-£100 per door. One door is £35 so for 5 doors I am looking at at least £550.
To me that’s considerable amount, especially if we are moving house next year. If I can limit my tool spend to under £150 I think it’s worth a punt.
I am struggling on the router. Makita cordless is nice but blew budget, and I will still need to buy a battery + charger.
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