Can I drill holes in 3/4 inch steel at home?
Discussion
Griffith4ever said:
1st thing to do is take it apart so you have the base disc on its own.
I could do that if you were near me on my pillar drill in short order.
Perhaps it's time to buy a pillar drill! :-) (well, drill press. Rare you need the whole stand)
Yeah thats the other issue, not sure that it can be split down like that, I am pretty certain the three lots of existing M12 threaded bar are welded into place from the underneath, there are grinder marks and evidence of it there.I could do that if you were near me on my pillar drill in short order.
Perhaps it's time to buy a pillar drill! :-) (well, drill press. Rare you need the whole stand)
tendown said:
You're worried about cracking the concrete with the fixings close to the edge, what kind are they?
Could you use resin to fix the m10 studs in and not crack the concrete?
The idea is that three threaded bars are sunk into the concrete pier when it is poured then this mounted onto them and bolted down. My concern about cracking is those three bars will be as it sits right now just 11-13mm from the edge of the concrete and could cause it to crack/burst as they are a bit near the edge. The issue with this is of course is that it will have anywhere from 5-20kg of telescopes and cameras on there, plus the weight of the mount which is 17kg plus the counterweights which will be anywhere between 1 and 20kg again. The max load I could have sat aloft all of this could be somewhere around 50kg, if the concrete cracks or bursts then I would imagine it will all come toppling down very quickly and would be a VERY expensive cock up. So I would like to avoid this if I can.Could you use resin to fix the m10 studs in and not crack the concrete?
Here is a terrible paint mockup of what I am aiming for
![](https://thumbsnap.com/sc/Lu8gEgj6.png)
ARHarh said:
Why would the M12 studding have nuts holding it to the base plate if it was welded? I would check they don't come out., be tricky to hold if its assembled.
I suspect this was done by the person who owned it after the original owner but before me (it's been owned by a few different astronomers since it was built) as to why, I couldn't say. I will try to wind them out and report back once I have worked out where and whom is getting the additional holes drilled.geeks said:
The idea is that three threaded bars are sunk into the concrete pier when it is poured then this mounted onto them and bolted down. My concern about cracking is those three bars will be as it sits right now just 11-13mm from the edge of the concrete and could cause it to crack/burst as they are a bit near the edge. The issue with this is of course is that it will have anywhere from 5-20kg of telescopes and cameras on there, plus the weight of the mount which is 17kg plus the counterweights which will be anywhere between 1 and 20kg again. The max load I could have sat aloft all of this could be somewhere around 50kg, if the concrete cracks or bursts then I would imagine it will all come toppling down very quickly and would be a VERY expensive cock up. So I would like to avoid this if I can.
Here is a terrible paint mockup of what I am aiming for
The three bars should be 10 - 12 x the bar diameter from the edge of the concrete, though I would have thought the astronomy community would have standard designs for this sort of thing. I would speak to Hilti and see what they recommend https://ask.hilti.co.uk/Here is a terrible paint mockup of what I am aiming for
That said, a quick google brings up this https://www.skyatnightmagazine.com/advice/how-to-b... If the concrete pillar is constrained by the pipe sleeve spalling due to the bolt's proximity to the edge should be less of a problem (till frost gets between the concrete and the pipe...)
Griffith4ever said:
20mm mild steel should be doable.
I'd start with something smaller like 6mm, then go to 8, then 10.
You want to drill very slowly, so careful with a mains power drill.
Cutting fluid like CT90 helps a lot.
I think, for 20mm, I'd want a magnetic pillar drill, personally. Perhaps you can hire one?
Random search: https://www.vevor.co.uk/magnetic-drill-c_11000/md4...
Having done a load of holes in a big steel for a house, and never knowing they existed, those magnetic pillar drills are great!I'd start with something smaller like 6mm, then go to 8, then 10.
You want to drill very slowly, so careful with a mains power drill.
Cutting fluid like CT90 helps a lot.
I think, for 20mm, I'd want a magnetic pillar drill, personally. Perhaps you can hire one?
Random search: https://www.vevor.co.uk/magnetic-drill-c_11000/md4...
I’d highly recommend just getting one (rented/borrow) to get the job done.
21TonyK said:
Local small engineering firm? I've got a guy on my local industrial estate who does simple things like that for a few quid.
Yeah this. Mag drill likely too small.If you had to do it on site, you could get there with a large pistol drill, slow speed, cutting fluid etc but it would take a good while to do four of them.
When an local engineering shop will likely do a better job, for less of you time, at less than it would cost to buy the drill bits and hire a drill.
xstian said:
Where abouts are you, I'm on the norfolk/suffolk boarder, near A11. I don't mind doing for you.
Thanks for the offer you actually aren't that far.V10Mike said:
Your profile says you're located in Cambs. I'm in Cambridge and would be happy to do it on the vertical mill for you (one for the tools you wish you'd bought sooner thread!).
Also thanks for the offer, you are closer that xstian, I am near Chatteris so about 30 mins from you. I will drop you a PM ![smile](/inc/images/smile.gif)
To those who asked, the build thread is underway https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...![smile](/inc/images/smile.gif)
![smile](/inc/images/smile.gif)
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