The zombie army COVID-19 Gardening thread.
Discussion
Hmm, good question. I've seen systems which don't use the wide bore distribution pipe, small bore and T-pieces all the way, but I've never tried it.
I think if you can balance the outlets so that there is about the same amount of water coming out of all of them, it doesn't matter too much what the actual flow rate is, you just leave it on for longer if you need to. But without fiddling with one, I wouldn't like to say for sure. I don't think I've ever used more than a couple of meters of the small bore pipe, and usually only one dripper at the end (you can get inline ones that go through, and they work fine, I just tend to buy the spiked terminal ones)
I think if you can balance the outlets so that there is about the same amount of water coming out of all of them, it doesn't matter too much what the actual flow rate is, you just leave it on for longer if you need to. But without fiddling with one, I wouldn't like to say for sure. I don't think I've ever used more than a couple of meters of the small bore pipe, and usually only one dripper at the end (you can get inline ones that go through, and they work fine, I just tend to buy the spiked terminal ones)
otolith said:
Hmm, good question. I've seen systems which don't use the wide bore distribution pipe, small bore and T-pieces all the way, but I've never tried it.
I think if you can balance the outlets so that there is about the same amount of water coming out of all of them, it doesn't matter too much what the actual flow rate is, you just leave it on for longer if you need to. But without fiddling with one, I wouldn't like to say for sure. I don't think I've ever used more than a couple of meters of the small bore pipe, and usually only one dripper at the end (you can get inline ones that go through, and they work fine, I just tend to buy the spiked terminal ones)
Thanks fella.I think if you can balance the outlets so that there is about the same amount of water coming out of all of them, it doesn't matter too much what the actual flow rate is, you just leave it on for longer if you need to. But without fiddling with one, I wouldn't like to say for sure. I don't think I've ever used more than a couple of meters of the small bore pipe, and usually only one dripper at the end (you can get inline ones that go through, and they work fine, I just tend to buy the spiked terminal ones)
I've ordered 30m of 6mm off Amazon and will report back.
Harry Flashman said:
AC43 said:
Harry Flashman said:
Pics please! I need to do this and wish to steal your ideas and then claim they were mine.
Pictures of the newly-planted borders? I'll try and get some when the sun's right.Basically, I'd planted up lots of shrubs/bushes/trees which looked OK. But my wife wanted to fill in some of the remaining gaps and add some more variety & colour.
Go a landscaper in, she did a planting plan and that was that. Easiest bit of gardening ever.
otolith said:
It's relatively easy to hide the thick pipe in a border with sleepers, you just attach it to the inside of the sleeper. An open area with pots is a bit trickier, though, and I definitely see the advantage to doing that with the thin pipe.
Yes. The tap is to right of that photo. So I'll run it through the ACRO so it clears the patio. Then I'll split it and have one run behind the pots. The other one needs to get to the far raised border. Probably through the one behind the pots. I think.
So here's what I did for irrigation on the balcony. I had one pipe run going the whole length on one side and two pipe runs parallel to the far wall (one run behind each row of pots). Then each pot is fed by its own tube, spurred off one of the main runs. Buying a ton of cheap Chinese connectors & T pieces really helped as I wanted to hide as much of the pipework as possible.
The orange drippers are from Claber and have a higher flow rate - and they are also individually adjustable; for the planters and large pot I have them at max. The small grey drippers are Gardenas. I also added 2 x Claber flow restrictors for the two smallest pots - these are just in-line taps. As Otolith points out, you sometimes have to allow for adjustments; in my case because there's a huge disparity in pot sizes.
Finally, I'll add a timer. Just didn't have one to hand. I was happy at now neat it turned out. The only pipes on show are those that run up the backs of the pots. I deliberately avoided daisy chaining the Clabers together as it would have meant lots more exposed pipework and that would have made me twitch.
ETA; there's one pipe jumping out at me in those photos - will have to alter the run to make it less obvious!
The orange drippers are from Claber and have a higher flow rate - and they are also individually adjustable; for the planters and large pot I have them at max. The small grey drippers are Gardenas. I also added 2 x Claber flow restrictors for the two smallest pots - these are just in-line taps. As Otolith points out, you sometimes have to allow for adjustments; in my case because there's a huge disparity in pot sizes.
Finally, I'll add a timer. Just didn't have one to hand. I was happy at now neat it turned out. The only pipes on show are those that run up the backs of the pots. I deliberately avoided daisy chaining the Clabers together as it would have meant lots more exposed pipework and that would have made me twitch.
ETA; there's one pipe jumping out at me in those photos - will have to alter the run to make it less obvious!
Edited by AC43 on Monday 20th June 20:46
Harry Flashman said:
Thanks! Shall give this a go.
Otolith gave a good shopping list with links.FWIW my core parts were
(i) pressure reducer (came with a Claber kit, goes on tap)
(ii) 6mm pipe (again, Claber kit 20m) but you can/should use 13mm for longer runs. Lots of generic stuff out there
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B008MPI12O/ref...
(iii) lots of connectors
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B08X3BK59J/ref...
(v) drippers - I used some from Claber, some from Gardena
(vi) pipe supports - posts onto which you clip your lines in the pots
(vii) timer (tbc)
In my case I kick started the whole process by buying a kit which had all the basics then adding various additional connectors, drippers and pipe. It's not the cheapest way but it gets you on your way.
https://www.gardena.com/uk/products/watering/micro...
Sway said:
Crikey DA, I remember the pics of you building it - that looks superb and really nicely matured.
Raspberries seem pretty foolproof - the new allotment plot hasn't been 'worked', at all, for years - yet there's a nice line of raspberry canes covered in fruit that my other half had big helpings of as we were looking around/planning. Think the neighbouring plot holders have been helping themselves too (one of whom is the site chair, who I've cultivated a good relationship with, which is partly how I've managed to 'skip the queue' to get this plot).
The other element in my favour is what we've done to our little starter plot in the last 20 months, and how we've mucked in for any community plot clearing, etc.
It's going to be a bit of a wrench handing over our existing plot on 1st November, even though we're hugely restricted in what we can grow.
Thanks. I've been slightly surprised as to how quickly it's all weathered and grown. Still tonnes to do with the gardens but need a load of dry stone walking done first and a barn conversion. Raspberries seem pretty foolproof - the new allotment plot hasn't been 'worked', at all, for years - yet there's a nice line of raspberry canes covered in fruit that my other half had big helpings of as we were looking around/planning. Think the neighbouring plot holders have been helping themselves too (one of whom is the site chair, who I've cultivated a good relationship with, which is partly how I've managed to 'skip the queue' to get this plot).
The other element in my favour is what we've done to our little starter plot in the last 20 months, and how we've mucked in for any community plot clearing, etc.
It's going to be a bit of a wrench handing over our existing plot on 1st November, even though we're hugely restricted in what we can grow.
Allium Red Mohican. These things are tall at 1m. Great in perennial beds to tower over the flowering plants. Alliums often produce leaves first so get their energy for the bulb early, meaning that having other plants grow up around them doesn't affect them with lack of sunlight, so are a great summer flowering plant. I like the red colour, and the tuft of white at the top.
They also flower after many of the early summer alliums, so are good for midsummer colour.
Tulips etc come up early so their leaves are fading by the time perennials cover them. So a mix of alliums and perennial tulips in herbaceous perennial beds is a great look!
They also flower after many of the early summer alliums, so are good for midsummer colour.
Tulips etc come up early so their leaves are fading by the time perennials cover them. So a mix of alliums and perennial tulips in herbaceous perennial beds is a great look!
Yesterday I decided to start taking down some conifers which partially separate a chunk of garden from the main bulk of lawn. They also cast a lot of shade in the afternoon and nothing grows in the flower bed as they remove all moisture and nutrients. The rest I'm going to have topped as they're getting too tall and I'm concerned they may topple if we encounter high winds but provide great shelter for my barns.
5 in total to remove, managed 2 yesterday and will aim to get the remainder down next weekend.
Untitled by Alex L, on Flickr
Untitled by Alex L, on Flickr
Untitled by Alex L, on Flickr
So much better already
Untitled by Alex L, on Flickr
After
Untitled by Alex L, on Flickr
5 in total to remove, managed 2 yesterday and will aim to get the remainder down next weekend.
Untitled by Alex L, on FlickrUntitled by Alex L, on FlickrUntitled by Alex L, on FlickrSo much better already
Untitled by Alex L, on FlickrAfter
Untitled by Alex L, on Flickr
Posted in new thread, but reposting here in the hope someone has some ideas/experience!
Taken on a new much larger allotment plot. Hasn't been worked in years, so was covered in chest high grass plus some self seeded cherry trees:
Dug out the cherry trees, and spent a day stemming 3/4 of the plot:
We're going to be putting in a load of raised beds made with fence posts and decking boards, and we like the plots next to us which have gone for 'recessed' paths compared to the common allotment paths (less strimming!).
So, thinking of hiring a turf cutter to lift the top couple of inches, building the raised beds then using the cut turf (flipped upside down) to fill them. Theory is covering with cardboard over winter then letting it all rot down into useful compost/soil.
Plot is 'fairly' level, but some bumps and dips - how well does a turf cutter deal with this? Other half has joint issues, so we'd like the paths (weed membrane and wood chop) to be as level as possible. Plus, the more level it is the easier it'll be to fit the raised beds nicely. Doesn't have to be perfect over the whole plot, just the worst of the unevenness taken out so there's no trip/stumble risks for her.
I'm wondering if once I've used the turf cutter, I'll then have a levelling job to do - and don't really have a clue how I might do that...
Taken on a new much larger allotment plot. Hasn't been worked in years, so was covered in chest high grass plus some self seeded cherry trees:
Dug out the cherry trees, and spent a day stemming 3/4 of the plot:
We're going to be putting in a load of raised beds made with fence posts and decking boards, and we like the plots next to us which have gone for 'recessed' paths compared to the common allotment paths (less strimming!).
So, thinking of hiring a turf cutter to lift the top couple of inches, building the raised beds then using the cut turf (flipped upside down) to fill them. Theory is covering with cardboard over winter then letting it all rot down into useful compost/soil.
Plot is 'fairly' level, but some bumps and dips - how well does a turf cutter deal with this? Other half has joint issues, so we'd like the paths (weed membrane and wood chop) to be as level as possible. Plus, the more level it is the easier it'll be to fit the raised beds nicely. Doesn't have to be perfect over the whole plot, just the worst of the unevenness taken out so there's no trip/stumble risks for her.
I'm wondering if once I've used the turf cutter, I'll then have a levelling job to do - and don't really have a clue how I might do that...
Last March the daffodils we’d planted under the plane tree, several years previously, were looking a bit sparse in places. So I marked out the bare areas with canes and then, last October, planted a lot more bulbs. A much better display this year!
March 2022:
March 2023:
I might divide some of the older clumps this year when their leaves start to brown and fill in a few more gaps.
March 2022:
March 2023:
I might divide some of the older clumps this year when their leaves start to brown and fill in a few more gaps.
Folks, it's spring! And as the only garden diary thread I can find on PH, we need updates as things start to happen. I try to plan on constant flowering somewhere in the garden from January to October, and as the lawn bulbs fade, others should be coming in.
I pruned all the roses a while back, and have now fertilised them. Cut back the winter growth/seed heads on perennials to allow new green to come through. About to fertilised containers, and so some weeding. Lawn needs attention too, have done some moss killing, but more is needed.
But I love flowers. And I just returned from a week away, to find that masses of tulip bulbs I planted last November are doing their thing! I bought absolutely loads in October in a Farmer Gracy sale, and have put them in borders and containers. Absolutely love the hot pink colour.
When the California lilac bushes behind these flower, this should look great. But I suspect the tulips will have faded by then, unfortunately...
As these fade, the rambling rose behind it in the tree trunk should kick off, and alliums come up through the fading tulips.
I did a load of mixed pots - again thin-leafed alliums should come through once the tulips fade...here's hoping!
I pruned all the roses a while back, and have now fertilised them. Cut back the winter growth/seed heads on perennials to allow new green to come through. About to fertilised containers, and so some weeding. Lawn needs attention too, have done some moss killing, but more is needed.
But I love flowers. And I just returned from a week away, to find that masses of tulip bulbs I planted last November are doing their thing! I bought absolutely loads in October in a Farmer Gracy sale, and have put them in borders and containers. Absolutely love the hot pink colour.
When the California lilac bushes behind these flower, this should look great. But I suspect the tulips will have faded by then, unfortunately...
As these fade, the rambling rose behind it in the tree trunk should kick off, and alliums come up through the fading tulips.
I did a load of mixed pots - again thin-leafed alliums should come through once the tulips fade...here's hoping!
Edited by Harry Flashman on Monday 10th April 12:45
Weather has been an utter b
d for getting stuff done - but lots in plan!
Planted a cherry tree in our front garden, couple of weeks later and it's about to burst into leaf. Californian lilac is absolutely fit to burst with the amount of buds on it - so incredibly pleased with that one. Bulbs have been really strong this year too so far.
But, really it's all been about our new allotment plot. Gave up our old 1/5 plot at the end of September, and now have one that's a bit bigger than a standard full plot (plus a bit extra under a tree for composting/etc.).
When the hire shop said "an 8hp Rotovator will cut through anything" I should have asked "then why do you also have 14hp ones?"
Paths to dig out, raised beds to install (made of reclaimed scaff boards), soil to sieve and mix with manure to fill beds - oh, and might then be able to plant something. This year, most of the plot will be covered in landscaping plastic to ensure everything stays dead.
Have a shed being given to me by a work colleague, and the local primary is giving me a greenhouse (for home).
Any tips for boots good for digging? I've killed two pairs of 'decent' wellies, and the soles make for bloody sore feet after 'kicking' a spade for a few hours.
d for getting stuff done - but lots in plan!Planted a cherry tree in our front garden, couple of weeks later and it's about to burst into leaf. Californian lilac is absolutely fit to burst with the amount of buds on it - so incredibly pleased with that one. Bulbs have been really strong this year too so far.
But, really it's all been about our new allotment plot. Gave up our old 1/5 plot at the end of September, and now have one that's a bit bigger than a standard full plot (plus a bit extra under a tree for composting/etc.).
When the hire shop said "an 8hp Rotovator will cut through anything" I should have asked "then why do you also have 14hp ones?"
Paths to dig out, raised beds to install (made of reclaimed scaff boards), soil to sieve and mix with manure to fill beds - oh, and might then be able to plant something. This year, most of the plot will be covered in landscaping plastic to ensure everything stays dead.
Have a shed being given to me by a work colleague, and the local primary is giving me a greenhouse (for home).
Any tips for boots good for digging? I've killed two pairs of 'decent' wellies, and the soles make for bloody sore feet after 'kicking' a spade for a few hours.
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