Bathroom regrets
Discussion
Harry Flashman said:
Sorry, missed this! i used Grohe kit. And yes, all standard, but you could raise the whole thing by mounting it on something solid above the floor. The pans are Burlington, as they are one of the few that do a wall hung pan in a quasi-period style. This is the one in the loft bathroom above:
Untitled by baconrashers, on Flickr
Did you have to take many 30 minute "faux dumps" to get the right height?Untitled by baconrashers, on FlickrI'm a 3 minute and flush man, but I know others prefer to relax with the newspaper and have a bit of time alone.
It's a great question - I like to leave a selection of old Evo, Classic & Sportscar, The Field and Country Life mags around the bathrooms to stave off boredom and give the impression that I am richer than I really am.
But I've done this for years, so I just measured floor to pan from my old house, where many hours were happily spent looking at cars/guns/farmers' daughters.
But I've done this for years, so I just measured floor to pan from my old house, where many hours were happily spent looking at cars/guns/farmers' daughters.
IJB1959 said:
Take the cover off and stuff as much loft insulation as you can behind the valve....it may take a while as access is narrow from the front but will do the trick. If you have other access then all the better.
Thanks. That's sensible advice and I did try that but there's nothing immediately behind the valve to pack the material against. I need to get into the void and that is going to be a bit of a mission involving century old filth, a tiny hatch behind a cupboard bolted to the bathroom wall, nothing to stand on and, obviously, awkward location of the back of the valve through old eaves that weren't removed when a roof was adjusted in the distant past. Just to fit some insulation ... that could easily have been fitted when the ****ing valve housing was installed ... by the ape.Many people seem to state that UFH is essential, and I think it probably is if you have a tiled floor, but I decided against it in our ensuite as we had Karndean flooring instead, and can't say I've missed not having UFH. It's not "cold" under foot. If it was a new build from scratch or complete renovation maybe I would have gone for it. We had a fully stainless steel towel rail fitted which produces a lot of heat, and I'd definitely recommend paying extra for that over the cheaper chrome ones.
JackReacher said:
Many people seem to state that UFH is essential, and I think it probably is if you have a tiled floor, but I decided against it in our ensuite as we had Karndean flooring instead, and can't say I've missed not having UFH. It's not "cold" under foot. If it was a new build from scratch or complete renovation maybe I would have gone for it. We had a fully stainless steel towel rail fitted which produces a lot of heat, and I'd definitely recommend paying extra for that over the cheaper chrome ones.
I would go with UFH whenever possible, but it is not essential. You don't have to have just tiled floors to use it, but they do give of the most heat. You can use it with Karndean, (assuming electric cable system is used), but you MUST Latex over it first. UFH is a very efficient way of heating a room (from the floor up) as those towel rails can get covered blocking the heat. They are called 'towel rails/warmers' not room heaters!If you are removing a radiator for a standard ladder rail, then there will be a massive BTU output drop (less surface area) so it would need to be quite large to compensate. White gives off more heat than chrome also.
Stainless steel towel warmers are worth the extra cost and last for years & years.
. Anyone with a bit more technical nouse able to do so?
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