I got wood

[guindilias]

rxe said:

I run duromatic bars with no sprocket whenever I can. They’re simpler, and I never, ever, get the “chip stuck in the sprocket” issue that needs to be picked out with the orange screwdriver. They’re probably a bit less efficient, but I’ve never noticed

I've never actually had a chip stuck in the sprocket, ever, but I think you may have cut a lot more timber than I have... some of the old boys on Arboristsite won't run any sprocket tipped bar because they think turning the sprocket "Robs power". Of course it does... that's why I take the wheel bearings off my car and replace them with journal bearings with grease nipples. That extra 0.000006 of a hp makes a massive difference.

[robinh73]

guindilias said:

Firstly, stab the exhaust, pull out the spark arrestor (only there for Cali wildfire reasons), and drill the exhaust, t is very restrictive. Then of you were unlucky to get the daft 201 specific carb, swap it for a 200 carb. Then port it just a bit - opening things out, specifically the intake and exhaust right where the carb ad exhaust nolt on - no need to go crazy smoothing them, but a flap wheel on a Dremel does no harm.
If you're going to go a bit further, buy a new jug and piston (Chinese is fine), and smooth out the ports properly. No valve guides to worry about!
I might have a standard 200T for sale if you are interested - will drag it off the shelf and see if it needs any work.

Cheers for that, I shall have a go at twiddling and tweaking it this weekend. Keep me posted on the 200T, I may be interested in that if I don't have to get a back pack blower this weekend!

[guindilias]

If you don't have a tach, get one - even a cheap one. The 201 runs far too lean top end. If you have the 200 carb you can twiddle it so it four-strokes at 10k WOT out of the cut, which is bang on for most saws. If you don't know what 4-stroking sounds like, it sounds wrong. You can download a WAV. file of a 2 stroke and a 4-stroking 2 stroke so you can hear the difference. I'll pick a 200T out and have a gape at it this weekend - most of my saws have been tuned for maximum power and shortest life, but I should have a mostly standard 200T.

[will_]

This thread has gone very "pro" of late. It's supposed to be about blithering idiots trying to win a battle against trees without losing a limb or limbs

[RichB]

will_ said:

This thread has gone very "pro" of late. It's supposed to be about blithering idiots trying to win a battle against trees without losing a limb or limbs

Oh I quite like having a few proper lumberjacks on the thread. It means bumbling idiots like me can get sensible answers without looking like a fool in the pro-shop.

[paralla]

RichB said:

Oh I quite like having a few proper lumberjacks on the thread. It means bumbling idiots like me can get sensible answers without looking like a fool in the pro-shop.

At the mention of lumberjacks its going another way, at least in my head it is.

[Hereward]

Is that Flashman? Always wondered what he looked like.

[dickymint]

guindilias said:

If you don't have a tach, get one - even a cheap one. The 201 runs far too lean top end. If you have the 200 carb you can twiddle it so it four-strokes at 10k WOT out of the cut, which is bang on for most saws. If you don't know what 4-stroking sounds like, it sounds wrong. You can download a WAV. file of a 2 stroke and a 4-stroking 2 stroke so you can hear the difference. I'll pick a 200T out and have a gape at it this weekend - most of my saws have been tuned for maximum power and shortest life, but I should have a mostly standard 200T.

I've used this to very good effect - pretty sure it was free when i got it...........

https://apps.apple.com/us/app/engine-rpm/id3404018...

[jet_noise]

RichB said:

will_ said:

This thread has gone very "pro" of late. It's supposed to be about blithering idiots trying to win a battle against trees without losing a limb or limbs

Oh I quite like having a few proper lumberjacks on the thread. It means bumbling idiots like me can get sensible answers without looking like a fool in the pro-shop.

+1

[rxe]

guindilias said:

If you don't have a tach, get one - even a cheap one. The 201 runs far too lean top end. If you have the 200 carb you can twiddle it so it four-strokes at 10k WOT out of the cut, which is bang on for most saws. If you don't know what 4-stroking sounds like, it sounds wrong. You can download a WAV. file of a 2 stroke and a 4-stroking 2 stroke so you can hear the difference. I'll pick a 200T out and have a gape at it this weekend - most of my saws have been tuned for maximum power and shortest life, but I should have a mostly standard 200T.

Best way to hear 4 stroking is to richen up the H screw by about half a turn, start it up, and pull the trigger. You’ll get a big cloud of smoke and it will top out at about 3000 rpm, 4 stroking. Then with the tach, you can gradually lean out the mix by screwing in the H screw. You need to be adjusting in tiny increments of 1/16 of a turn - half a turn is a massive change. I’d agree that if you’re going to fiddle with carbs, a tach is vital. Otherwise you’ll melt your pistons.

[Chris Type R]

Any suggestions on how to tackle this lot ? It's freshly cut, and I think some of it is beech.

I have a small electric chainsaw, a roughneck maul, a grenade splitter. Most of these are pretty heavy and I think are going to be a challenge to split. Perhaps letting it season a few months might help here.



I was thinking of giving something like https://www.amazon.co.uk/Forest-Master-Smart-Split... a go - sales video here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lXah6D_7Gx0 I can't really justify a full blown hydraulic splitter.

[guindilias]

That type of splitter is pretty much useless for making anything but kindling. And those logs look like you might be better buying or borrowing a petrol chainsaw, and "noodling" them before you try to split them. Basically using the saw to cut it into manageable, splittable chunks. It's called "noodling" because a sharp chain and a decent saw will produce a big pile of wooden "noodles" rather than chips.
If you are a powerfully built PH type by all means try the maul or the grenade, but there is an easier solution to the problem and the solution starts with "Man maths made me buy a Stihl".

[Chris Type R]

guindilias said:

That type of splitter is pretty much useless for making anything but kindling. And those logs look like you might be better buying or borrowing a petrol chainsaw, and "noodling" them before you try to split them. Basically using the saw to cut it into manageable, splittable chunks. It's called "noodling" because a sharp chain and a decent saw will produce a big pile of wooden "noodles" rather than chips.
If you are a powerfully built PH type by all means try the maul or the grenade, but there is an easier solution to the problem and the solution starts with "Man maths made me buy a Stihl".

Thanks for the pointer - I found a YT video which I think explains the process - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3nDduCC_41w

I really can't justify a Stihl until I've worn out or broken my previously man-math justified Makita 35cm electric.

[Harry Flashman]

Hereward said:

Is that Flashman? Always wondered what he looked like.

Once, perhaps (i.e. Not even close) , but with a bigger belly (not tricky) and a smaller axe (similarly unsurprising).

As to the thread going pro, I agree. I am watching this unfold with an increasing sense of bewilderment.

I shall probably post a picture of badly chopped wood soon, followed by a shot of a severed foot, and finally a skewed and blurry photo of the inside of an ambulance.

Amateur level. We can get back there.

Edited by Harry Flashman on Saturday 3rd October 00:41

[jet_noise]

Chris Type R said:

Any suggestions on how to tackle this lot ? It's freshly cut, and I think some of it is beech.

I have a small electric chainsaw, a roughneck maul, a grenade splitter. Most of these are pretty heavy and I think are going to be a challenge to split. Perhaps letting it season a few months might help here.



I was thinking of giving something like https://www.amazon.co.uk/Forest-Master-Smart-Split... a go - sales video here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lXah6D_7Gx0 I can't really justify a full blown hydraulic splitter.

Agree with guindillas on the slide hammer type splitter. While the one I have is free standing, you initially only have one hand to
slide, it is nowhere near as powerful as the force you get with an axe swing.

How heavy/long is your maul?
Do you use a sledge on your grenade or a lump hammer?
You could start with a larger maul/sledge and then use something smaller unless you are powerfully built. An 8lb maul sledge is quite tiring to use continuously.

What size is the longest that your fireplace/stove will take? Dumb thing to say but some of those rounds look quite long, you'll need to cut 'em down first.
So far I've only found noodling (as I now know it is called thanks to this thread) is needed on large forked bits.

[Chris Type R]

jet_noise said:

Agree with guindillas on the slide hammer type splitter. While the one I have is free standing, you initially only have one hand to
slide, it is nowhere near as powerful as the force you get with an axe swing.

There was a whiff of snake oil about the slide hammer.

> How heavy/long is your maul?

8Lb, (which has increased in price from £20 to £35 in 4 years !) https://www.screwfix.com/p/roughneck-splitting-mau...

Do you use a sledge on your grenade or a lump hammer?

> Both, mostly the sledge.

In the past I've managed to lose the grenade in rounds. This was into freshly cut pine/conifer, so might have been quite compressible.

> You could start with a larger maul/sledge and then use something smaller unless you are powerfully built. An 8lb maul sledge is quite tiring to use continuously.
> What size is the longest that your fireplace/stove will take? Dumb thing to say but some of those rounds look quite long, you'll need to cut 'em down first.
> So far I've only found noodling (as I now know it is called thanks to this thread) is needed on large forked bits.

You're right about the lengths, I'm going to have to noodle them down both to reduce the length and to reduce the size/weight and get them manageable enough to split. My days of being powerfully built are well behind me, so the whole exercise will take some time (what was I thinking etc).

[Bill]

Chris Type R said:

I really can't justify a Stihl until I've worn out or broken my previously man-math justified Makita 35cm electric.

That won't take long...

Better to save the electric one for little jobs.

Alternatively, the joy of a grenade is being able to knock it in accurately so you could take chunks off the sides of the large rounds. That pile has "gym subs saved" written all over it, just do a round every day or two/three.

[jet_noise]

Chris Type R said:

You're right about the lengths, I'm going to have to noodle them down both to reduce the length and to reduce the size/weight and get them manageable enough to split. My days of being powerfully built are well behind me, so the whole exercise will take some time (what was I thinking etc).

IMHO that maul will be good even for the larger bits.
I tend to do short stints with breaks too!
It is very satisfying work. You will get stronger/better the more you do.

A couple of things I do on the bigger bits. No idea if these are recognised ways but they work for me...
...although my maul is only 5lb (X25).
Attack the round nearer the edge than the middle and parallel to the rings. You get segments off until the centre is small enough to, er, cooperate.
And/or accept that it isn't going to split with one hit. Imagine a line through the centre along which you want to split, start at one edge then work your way to the other. At some point it'll split. I expect each hit weakens the wood until crack.

[guindilias]

Post the pic on the chainsaw section of arboristsite. You'll need a tuned up 660 with a 36" bar just to go through the trellis in the background. Skip tooth chain, hand filed to whatever the angle of the day is - it changes regularly.

[Chris Type R]

guindilias said:

Post the pic on the chainsaw section of arboristsite. You'll need a tuned up 660 with a 36" bar just to go through the trellis in the background. Skip tooth chain, hand filed to whatever the angle of the day is - it changes regularly.

Looking at the weather forecast, I'll be waiting a good few days before I start to tackle it. It's stacked up and rearranged enough now that we can park on the drive.

Edited by Chris Type R on Saturday 3rd October 11:19