Discussion
Austin_Metro said:
Dear 101 team, I’ve bought myself a bag of exotic hardwood off cuts. My skills are very limited. All I want to do is have a go and make something as simple as a key rack that I can then use the dowel holes (where the little six or 8mm metal plugs sit, for shelves) in our new kitchen. I intend to use the wooden dowels as a non permanent fixing.
A load of sanding and likely some Osmo oil …
But I wonder if I “need” a Japanese pull saw. If so, where’s a modest place to start, please?
Or tell me to stick with my tenon if I’m just wasting money. Cheers, Austin.
Axminster tools will be your friend and your wallets enemy. I pop in every time I was passing (it's about 10 minutes from the m2/a249 junction) so not really passing and buy 2 clamps. I now have over 20 Axminster clamps, but whilst your there you see the glue section, you can never have enough glue, just around the corner from the glue is the saw section, I now have 5 pull saws and a very expensive veritas saw, the router bits are on offer, that purchase still haven't been used. At the till is Festool sanding blocks, do I have enough, lets gets some more just in case I don't. I do.. It's worse than popping into Costco for some toilet roll.. £300 later and I'm leaving with a trolley full of stuff which I'm trying to calculate if it'll fit in the car. A load of sanding and likely some Osmo oil …
But I wonder if I “need” a Japanese pull saw. If so, where’s a modest place to start, please?
Or tell me to stick with my tenon if I’m just wasting money. Cheers, Austin.
Sanding you say, well you will need a sander, then dust extraction, then sanding discs, these need your own box to go in, of course.. before you know it you've a stack of boxes and spent over a grand and you only need to sand a few items a little..
Austin_Metro said:
Pheo said:
Small project I completed this weekend to create myself a charging station for the bedside:
A bit of scrap from north laine timber (Brighton)’s odds and sods bin, some dowels and a mitre saw. Definitely not perfect - a bit of cupping meaning it doesn’t sit perfectly flat on one side, and I only had one decent clamp, but a bit of sanding later and I think it’s a fairly decent result given it cost less than a fiver.
Would love to have given dovetails or similar a go but 1) I don’t have the skills to be that accurate yet! 2) time is against me
Only problem now is my other half would like one but that was the only bit of wood! Will have to go hunting again.
Reckon that’s a win. Especially given the re-order! A bit of scrap from north laine timber (Brighton)’s odds and sods bin, some dowels and a mitre saw. Definitely not perfect - a bit of cupping meaning it doesn’t sit perfectly flat on one side, and I only had one decent clamp, but a bit of sanding later and I think it’s a fairly decent result given it cost less than a fiver.
Would love to have given dovetails or similar a go but 1) I don’t have the skills to be that accurate yet! 2) time is against me
Only problem now is my other half would like one but that was the only bit of wood! Will have to go hunting again.
wolfracesonic said:
Austin_Metro said:
Pheo said:
Small project I completed this weekend to create myself a charging station for the bedside:
A bit of scrap from north laine timber (Brighton)’s odds and sods bin, some dowels and a mitre saw. Definitely not perfect - a bit of cupping meaning it doesn’t sit perfectly flat on one side, and I only had one decent clamp, but a bit of sanding later and I think it’s a fairly decent result given it cost less than a fiver.
Would love to have given dovetails or similar a go but 1) I don’t have the skills to be that accurate yet! 2) time is against me
Only problem now is my other half would like one but that was the only bit of wood! Will have to go hunting again.
Reckon that’s a win. Especially given the re-order! A bit of scrap from north laine timber (Brighton)’s odds and sods bin, some dowels and a mitre saw. Definitely not perfect - a bit of cupping meaning it doesn’t sit perfectly flat on one side, and I only had one decent clamp, but a bit of sanding later and I think it’s a fairly decent result given it cost less than a fiver.
Would love to have given dovetails or similar a go but 1) I don’t have the skills to be that accurate yet! 2) time is against me
Only problem now is my other half would like one but that was the only bit of wood! Will have to go hunting again.
Excellent choice of reading by the way, It's always good to have a book that helps you fall asleep handy by the bedside... Still plenty of room for a good book though
https://www.wob.com/en-gb/books/albert-jackson/col...
I need some advice on wood finishes.
My next project will be a custom fit desk for my wife's office. The desk will be made of two beech sheets (I'm in Germany so apologies for the german - https://www.hornbach.de/p/leimholzplatte-buche-b-c... I am looking for a easy to apply finish that won't overly darken the wood and is suitable for desk duties. I was thinking of sanding to 320 grit then applying a colourless hard wax oil (https://www.hornbach.de/p/remmers-eco-hartwachsoel-farblos-750-ml/6697268/), followed by a light sanding and a second coat of the hard wax oil.
Any thoughts?
My next project will be a custom fit desk for my wife's office. The desk will be made of two beech sheets (I'm in Germany so apologies for the german - https://www.hornbach.de/p/leimholzplatte-buche-b-c... I am looking for a easy to apply finish that won't overly darken the wood and is suitable for desk duties. I was thinking of sanding to 320 grit then applying a colourless hard wax oil (https://www.hornbach.de/p/remmers-eco-hartwachsoel-farblos-750-ml/6697268/), followed by a light sanding and a second coat of the hard wax oil.
Any thoughts?
I used Rubio Monocoat (Pure) on a table recently, I was impressed with the result and will definitely be using it again. It takes a while to cure, so the accelerator is worth using.
https://rubiomonocoat.co.uk/
https://rubiomonocoat.co.uk/
Austin_Metro said:
Dear 101 team, I’ve bought myself a bag of exotic hardwood off cuts. My skills are very limited. All I want to do is have a go and make something as simple as a key rack that I can then use the dowel holes (where the little six or 8mm metal plugs sit, for shelves) in our new kitchen. I intend to use the wooden dowels as a non permanent fixing.
A load of sanding and likely some Osmo oil …
But I wonder if I “need” a Japanese pull saw. If so, where’s a modest place to start, please?
Or tell me to stick with my tenon if I’m just wasting money. Cheers, Austin.
Of course you need a Japanese saw. How do you manage in life without one ? A load of sanding and likely some Osmo oil …
But I wonder if I “need” a Japanese pull saw. If so, where’s a modest place to start, please?
Or tell me to stick with my tenon if I’m just wasting money. Cheers, Austin.
You could do worse than buy a Dozuki which is variously described as a tenon saw or dovetail saw but works well for cutting all manner of smaller stock. Axminster is as good a place to buy from as any.
Take this for example. Not too expensive, replacement blades are available, the handle is wrapped in cane which is traditional, the blade is 240mm long which is a good length and will feel nicely balanced in the hand.
https://www.axminstertools.com/japanese-dozuki-me-...
Just checked and it turns out I'm using this same saw as my everyday saw. I've had it a couple of years now and it's great. It balances just where the blade meets the handle and spare blades are available from ToolStation if you need them in a hurry.
loughran said:
Of course you need a Japanese saw. How do you manage in life without one ?
You could do worse than buy a Dozuki which is variously described as a tenon saw or dovetail saw but works well for cutting all manner of smaller stock. Axminster is as good a place to buy from as any.
Take this for example. Not too expensive, replacement blades are available, the handle is wrapped in cane which is traditional, the blade is 240mm long which is a good length and will feel nicely balanced in the hand.
https://www.axminstertools.com/japanese-dozuki-me-...
Just checked and it turns out I'm using this same saw as my everyday saw. I've had it a couple of years now and it's great. It balances just where the blade meets the handle and spare blades are available from ToolStation if you need them in a hurry.
Thank you. This is very tempting. I’ve attempted to stay off the Axminister … You could do worse than buy a Dozuki which is variously described as a tenon saw or dovetail saw but works well for cutting all manner of smaller stock. Axminster is as good a place to buy from as any.
Take this for example. Not too expensive, replacement blades are available, the handle is wrapped in cane which is traditional, the blade is 240mm long which is a good length and will feel nicely balanced in the hand.
https://www.axminstertools.com/japanese-dozuki-me-...
Just checked and it turns out I'm using this same saw as my everyday saw. I've had it a couple of years now and it's great. It balances just where the blade meets the handle and spare blades are available from ToolStation if you need them in a hurry.
Austin_Metro said:
loughran said:
Of course you need a Japanese saw. How do you manage in life without one ?
You could do worse than buy a Dozuki which is variously described as a tenon saw or dovetail saw but works well for cutting all manner of smaller stock. Axminster is as good a place to buy from as any.
Take this for example. Not too expensive, replacement blades are available, the handle is wrapped in cane which is traditional, the blade is 240mm long which is a good length and will feel nicely balanced in the hand.
- https://www.axminstertools.com/japanese-dozuki-me-...
Just checked and it turns out I'm using this same saw as my everyday saw. I've had it a couple of years now and it's great. It balances just where the blade meets the handle and spare blades are available from ToolStation if you need them in a hurry.
Thank you. This is very tempting. I’ve attempted to stay off the Axminister … You could do worse than buy a Dozuki which is variously described as a tenon saw or dovetail saw but works well for cutting all manner of smaller stock. Axminster is as good a place to buy from as any.
Take this for example. Not too expensive, replacement blades are available, the handle is wrapped in cane which is traditional, the blade is 240mm long which is a good length and will feel nicely balanced in the hand.
- https://www.axminstertools.com/japanese-dozuki-me-...
Just checked and it turns out I'm using this same saw as my everyday saw. I've had it a couple of years now and it's great. It balances just where the blade meets the handle and spare blades are available from ToolStation if you need them in a hurry.
- - https://www.lawson-his.co.uk/irwin-10505165-mini-d...
Irwin do a pull saw that is fairly cheap as well. Bit flimsy compared to that one, but nearly half the price.
Can get good, clean cuts if cutting little bits. Goes through birch ply cleanly as well, which is pretty tough!
Think the blades may be replaceable as well, or at least they are on the little one I have. Which is handy for storing as you can separate the blade from the handle and pack it in the a toolbox easily.
ETA - Sorry, ballsed up the formatting!
Edited by Slagathore on Tuesday 13th February 07:46
Some assistance is sought on a pile of hardwood I purchased at an auction.
It's been profiled to be decking.
Trying to figure out what it might be has got me going round in circles. I'm thinking something like Brazilian redwood but the black/dark markings don't seem to be evident in pieces I've seen online, might it be brazilian rosewood ?
It's very tough to cut, it's very heavy, so heavy that the packages that I bought, the maximum length a piece has is 2M (although due to the differing lengths it might have been shipped to site to fit a job exactly).
This is a section of it laid on a plank of oak, so you can see the reddish brown/dark colours it has.
This is the 18mm end grain after I chiseled away the cut marks of the saw.
So any ideas fellow woodworkers ?
It's been profiled to be decking.
Trying to figure out what it might be has got me going round in circles. I'm thinking something like Brazilian redwood but the black/dark markings don't seem to be evident in pieces I've seen online, might it be brazilian rosewood ?
It's very tough to cut, it's very heavy, so heavy that the packages that I bought, the maximum length a piece has is 2M (although due to the differing lengths it might have been shipped to site to fit a job exactly).
This is a section of it laid on a plank of oak, so you can see the reddish brown/dark colours it has.
This is the 18mm end grain after I chiseled away the cut marks of the saw.
So any ideas fellow woodworkers ?
If you hadn't mentioned it was profiled for decking my guesses would have been Mexican or Honduran Rosewood... but decking ?!?
I'll admit I don't know but glancing at my Periodic Table of Wood poster it could be Ipe or maybe Chechen or possibly Pau Ferro... But it does look like rosewood.
What does it smell like when it's being worked ?
I'll admit I don't know but glancing at my Periodic Table of Wood poster it could be Ipe or maybe Chechen or possibly Pau Ferro... But it does look like rosewood.
What does it smell like when it's being worked ?
You may already know about Wood database, if not they have lots of end grain shots like yours. Is it profiled for decking or flooring? Unusual to have t&g decking, unless the groove is for some proprietary hidden fixing system.
Went out and planed some, sanded some and also crosscut some, then figured that even with my nose buried in the shavings I couldn't smell anything due having a sniffly nose. Did get a little bit of dusky aroma, even tried wetting it to see if that would bring it out, no. Might see what the wife can smell later when she gets home.
You might be right on the flooring front, due to the T&G. I'd assumed it was for decking.
Upside down shot of another strip.
Going through that database, I keep coming back to a rosewood with similar end grain.
Since I bought it at the auction I've always called it mystery wood. It was bought wrapped in bundles of 5 regardless of the length and only the delivery address used to be visible on the packaging (now long gone) and any invoices attached to the bundles were removed prior to the auction (annoyingly).
You might be right on the flooring front, due to the T&G. I'd assumed it was for decking.
Upside down shot of another strip.
Going through that database, I keep coming back to a rosewood with similar end grain.
Since I bought it at the auction I've always called it mystery wood. It was bought wrapped in bundles of 5 regardless of the length and only the delivery address used to be visible on the packaging (now long gone) and any invoices attached to the bundles were removed prior to the auction (annoyingly).
crmcatee said:
This is a section of it laid on a plank of oak, so you can see the reddish brown/dark colours it has.
crmcatee said:
I think what you bought is flooring that's intended to be glued down to a substrate and the grooving is there to give the glue more purchase.Whatever they turn out to be though, I like the look of the wood in the top photo.
Well my wife has had a sniff of shavings that I rustled up for her and said. "There's no real smell at all; perhaps a little musty'. They burn nicely in the stove though.
Which doesn't get us any further forward.
I just had a look to see where folks were, I was going to offer you a piece if you were local to Kent.
Which doesn't get us any further forward.
I just had a look to see where folks were, I was going to offer you a piece if you were local to Kent.
I have a couple of projects in mind which will need me to cut some plywood sheets down.
I do have an old jigsaw, so to get nice square cuts I could clamp my big spirit level or something else square and use that as a guide. However, why not buy more tools?
A proper guide clamp isn't that expensive:
https://its.co.uk/pd/VNT20081-Vaunt-Clamp-Guide-12...
Then I saw
Has anyone tried the Bora system? It looks good to my untrained eye. The WTX version (clamps both ends) looks to be harder to find in the UK but the NGX (single end operation) turns up on a few sites like BuyAParcel
https://www.buyaparcel.com/bora-wtx-guide-rail-str...
and
https://www.buyaparcel.com/bora-jigsaw-guide-strai...
I do have an old jigsaw, so to get nice square cuts I could clamp my big spirit level or something else square and use that as a guide. However, why not buy more tools?
A proper guide clamp isn't that expensive:
https://its.co.uk/pd/VNT20081-Vaunt-Clamp-Guide-12...
Then I saw
Has anyone tried the Bora system? It looks good to my untrained eye. The WTX version (clamps both ends) looks to be harder to find in the UK but the NGX (single end operation) turns up on a few sites like BuyAParcel
https://www.buyaparcel.com/bora-wtx-guide-rail-str...
and
https://www.buyaparcel.com/bora-jigsaw-guide-strai...
How accurate do you need to be?
A jigsaw blade deflects easily so on a long cut, even with one of those guides I wouldn't be certain you'll get a perfectly straight line.
For the money you'd spend on the system above, you could get a reasonable mains powered circular saw ( such as this one ) and run it against a clamped guide rail made from any straight edge.
A jigsaw blade deflects easily so on a long cut, even with one of those guides I wouldn't be certain you'll get a perfectly straight line.
For the money you'd spend on the system above, you could get a reasonable mains powered circular saw ( such as this one ) and run it against a clamped guide rail made from any straight edge.
You'll keep them for a lifetime and they'll become goto tools.
So spurred on by others; I quite fancied a box to help tidy my desk somewhat (what that means is I can put stuff in the box and then put more stuff on top of the box; so a win win).
It's a picture fest so sorry in advance.
I had a few spare whisky tins about (as always) so picked a nice one to start with.
Using Mr Grinder and a pair of snips it flattens out quite nicely.
Using the lip of the tin as a straightish edge, it's laid on the ply and rolled into place, it's held in place with the help of strong carpet adhesive. The white paper is there to stop scratching.
Since the tin isn't generally square, it's then trimmed square using my little circular saw (which has more uses than I care to mention). With the metal tin face down so the saw cuts through that first leaving a clean cut. What you're left with determines the size of the box.
I then go for a piece of that mystery wood I have.
It's sent through the thicknesser to get rid of the adhesive strips. Then put through the table saw to cut a couple of grooves for the top and bottom of the box to slip into.
I then slice it up where the sides need to be, trying not to remove too much material to loose the grain match I opted for my japanese saw.
45 degree bevels are put on and it's lined up ready for the glue up.
3/4 of the way there making sure that the barcode was in the front left side so the worst join of the grain match would be at the back as I'd marked that with blue tape what was the back.
![](https://thumbsnap.com/sc/dgE8d2ug.jpg[/img]</a> <a href="https://thumbsnap.com/dgE8d2ug" Target="_blank" rel="nofollow">[img]https://thumbsnap.com/sc/dgE8d2ug.jpg)
Glued up for the night.
It's then onto my spline cutting jig which did the work easily.
Then it was time for the second glue up overnight; splines were made from old hardwood decking we used to have down; it's lovely red colour but darkens when soaked with oil.
Next morning, splines cut and sanded back.
Then it was time for the moment of truth. Cut it open, I opted for the table saw and I had some sharp offcuts of willow which were formerly attached to the beginnings of a cricket bat so these became perfect wedges.
This didn't go as planned; my riving knife it seems is slightly out of straight and got caught, so I was left with slight cuts on the corners at the entry points on all four corners. Annoyingly the edge is 15mm thick; had I thought and made it 14mm I could have used my little circular saw which doesn't have a riving knife and I think would have made a cleaner cut. (Next time). So a bit of damage limitation was called for. Don't think it came out too bad.
Now that it was flat; I could start making the tray to fit inside.
I had some spare hinges in a bag and decided to use them and had I thought, I could have used a trim router to cut them in rather than chiselling them in. (next time and more on these later).
First coat of danish oil.
The finished article.
I did cut a slight bevel along the front as a separator but it also helped hide the cuts from the problem with the riving knife.
I'd found some walnut veneers in a box and decided to use that for the tray. I also had felt from a previous project so decided to line both the lid and base with that.
Full of the junk from my desk.
I'm pleased with it; although those hinges suck and I think I'll either change them to something else (sturdier) or get a chain to help support the lid from going back too far. It's been ages since I made a box and I spent many happy hours in the shed making this one, thank you for the inspiration.
If you got this far well done, sorry for the picturefest.
So spurred on by others; I quite fancied a box to help tidy my desk somewhat (what that means is I can put stuff in the box and then put more stuff on top of the box; so a win win).
It's a picture fest so sorry in advance.
I had a few spare whisky tins about (as always) so picked a nice one to start with.
Using Mr Grinder and a pair of snips it flattens out quite nicely.
Using the lip of the tin as a straightish edge, it's laid on the ply and rolled into place, it's held in place with the help of strong carpet adhesive. The white paper is there to stop scratching.
Since the tin isn't generally square, it's then trimmed square using my little circular saw (which has more uses than I care to mention). With the metal tin face down so the saw cuts through that first leaving a clean cut. What you're left with determines the size of the box.
I then go for a piece of that mystery wood I have.
It's sent through the thicknesser to get rid of the adhesive strips. Then put through the table saw to cut a couple of grooves for the top and bottom of the box to slip into.
I then slice it up where the sides need to be, trying not to remove too much material to loose the grain match I opted for my japanese saw.
45 degree bevels are put on and it's lined up ready for the glue up.
3/4 of the way there making sure that the barcode was in the front left side so the worst join of the grain match would be at the back as I'd marked that with blue tape what was the back.
Glued up for the night.
It's then onto my spline cutting jig which did the work easily.
Then it was time for the second glue up overnight; splines were made from old hardwood decking we used to have down; it's lovely red colour but darkens when soaked with oil.
Next morning, splines cut and sanded back.
Then it was time for the moment of truth. Cut it open, I opted for the table saw and I had some sharp offcuts of willow which were formerly attached to the beginnings of a cricket bat so these became perfect wedges.
This didn't go as planned; my riving knife it seems is slightly out of straight and got caught, so I was left with slight cuts on the corners at the entry points on all four corners. Annoyingly the edge is 15mm thick; had I thought and made it 14mm I could have used my little circular saw which doesn't have a riving knife and I think would have made a cleaner cut. (Next time). So a bit of damage limitation was called for. Don't think it came out too bad.
Now that it was flat; I could start making the tray to fit inside.
I had some spare hinges in a bag and decided to use them and had I thought, I could have used a trim router to cut them in rather than chiselling them in. (next time and more on these later).
First coat of danish oil.
The finished article.
I did cut a slight bevel along the front as a separator but it also helped hide the cuts from the problem with the riving knife.
I'd found some walnut veneers in a box and decided to use that for the tray. I also had felt from a previous project so decided to line both the lid and base with that.
Full of the junk from my desk.
I'm pleased with it; although those hinges suck and I think I'll either change them to something else (sturdier) or get a chain to help support the lid from going back too far. It's been ages since I made a box and I spent many happy hours in the shed making this one, thank you for the inspiration.
If you got this far well done, sorry for the picturefest.
I’ve got another box on the go, I was going to post up some pics but they’d have looked pretty much the same as yours! Re. Slicing the box open, I I always end up with it not being perfect, so I clamp some long lengths of sandpaper to some thick glass and sand away till I have two perfect(for me) mating surfaces. Interesting vid here of cutting splines without a jig. Splines without a jig, obvious when you think about it.
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