Best Wifi enabled thermostat
Discussion
The tado opentherm is working very well, seems very clever with the weather adaption too, Modulates flowtemp on warm-up depending on outside temps.
I have a max of 55c and on colder days warm-up it would hit that to heat up fast, yesterday's milder weather (12c) meant that it never ramped past 45c the entire time.
Opentherm has created another issue though, once within the rooms 1c setpoint it's modulating down to below 42c.
The problem is that our kitchen only has a plinth heater, this is connected to the central heating and starts blowing the fan once pipe temps on the plinth reach 42c via a low limit thermostat.
This means that the plinth fan either doesn't come on once initial heat up is done, or it comes on and off every other second due to the flow just about being dead on 42c.
The heater,
So what I've ended up doing is linking the oe pipestat to closed (always on), and fitting my own pipe stat and a sonoff controllable /settable switch.
Just experimenting with air temperatured and how low I can go before it's blowing "cold" air
Anyone know what a air to air heat pump indoor unit will blow as a minimum?
Here's some pics of the faffing.
33c still feels like warm air.
I have a max of 55c and on colder days warm-up it would hit that to heat up fast, yesterday's milder weather (12c) meant that it never ramped past 45c the entire time.
Opentherm has created another issue though, once within the rooms 1c setpoint it's modulating down to below 42c.
The problem is that our kitchen only has a plinth heater, this is connected to the central heating and starts blowing the fan once pipe temps on the plinth reach 42c via a low limit thermostat.
This means that the plinth fan either doesn't come on once initial heat up is done, or it comes on and off every other second due to the flow just about being dead on 42c.
The heater,
So what I've ended up doing is linking the oe pipestat to closed (always on), and fitting my own pipe stat and a sonoff controllable /settable switch.
Just experimenting with air temperatured and how low I can go before it's blowing "cold" air
Anyone know what a air to air heat pump indoor unit will blow as a minimum?
Here's some pics of the faffing.
33c still feels like warm air.
Can anyone suggest a good WiFi thermostat that's not hive that when the system fails it's default boiler/heating on.
Has to be able to work in a large house. Range through thick walls arc.
Our new hive system has been comedy bad, forever offline, failing, there's no on button that works if the system fails.
Has to be able to work in a large house. Range through thick walls arc.
Our new hive system has been comedy bad, forever offline, failing, there's no on button that works if the system fails.
cptsideways said:
Can anyone suggest a good WiFi thermostat that's not hive that when the system fails it's default boiler/heating on.
Has to be able to work in a large house. Range through thick walls arc.
Our new hive system has been comedy bad, forever offline, failing, there's no on button that works if the system fails.
Evohome for reliability and range. Mine has never failed in 4 years. App and general usability is lacking compared to tado though. Has to be able to work in a large house. Range through thick walls arc.
Our new hive system has been comedy bad, forever offline, failing, there's no on button that works if the system fails.
cptsideways said:
Can anyone suggest a good WiFi thermostat that's not hive that when the system fails it's default boiler/heating on.
Has to be able to work in a large house. Range through thick walls arc.
Our new hive system has been comedy bad, forever offline, failing, there's no on button that works if the system fails.
Tado. We have thick walls and long distances and it’s pretty good. Longest stat is about 17m linear and through three doorways / block or stone walls and still connects. Has to be able to work in a large house. Range through thick walls arc.
Our new hive system has been comedy bad, forever offline, failing, there's no on button that works if the system fails.
journeymanpro said:
cptsideways said:
Can anyone suggest a good WiFi thermostat that's not hive that when the system fails it's default boiler/heating on.
Has to be able to work in a large house. Range through thick walls arc.
Our new hive system has been comedy bad, forever offline, failing, there's no on button that works if the system fails.
Evohome for reliability and range. Mine has never failed in 4 years. App and general usability is lacking compared to tado though. Has to be able to work in a large house. Range through thick walls arc.
Our new hive system has been comedy bad, forever offline, failing, there's no on button that works if the system fails.
cptsideways said:
Can anyone suggest a good WiFi thermostat that's not hive that when the system fails it's default boiler/heating on.
Has to be able to work in a large house. Range through thick walls arc.
Our new hive system has been comedy bad, forever offline, failing, there's no on button that works if the system fails.
Sorry to hear that but there should be a simple on/off switch on the hub that connects directly to the boiler.Has to be able to work in a large house. Range through thick walls arc.
Our new hive system has been comedy bad, forever offline, failing, there's no on button that works if the system fails.
I've been using Hive for over 8/9 years now. Firstly in a 2 bed large flat and since 2017 in my 5 bed detached house with nice thick brick walls.
Been pretty reliable al that time. Had the odd outage (mainly with Virgin internet) and still able to use thermostat without internet.
Have you tried dealing with Hive support, I've always had good success with them?
poo at Paul's said:
Tado. We have thick walls and long distances and it’s pretty good. Longest stat is about 17m linear and through three doorways / block or stone walls and still connects.
Our house is a modernish 4 bed detached, not huge by any means, and I had some issues with the Tado Bridge (dongle) that goes on the router losing connection with the receiver by the boiler. It's basically only across the narrow part of the house, with hub upstairs and boiler downstairs. Boiler is in utility room but there's nothing directly in its way. I had to relocate the bridge - as we'd just had the house refurbed it would have been useful to have known about the bridge location issues beforehand!A poster on the Tado Community put some pointers up:
"Make sure that there are no large metal objects (like refrigerators, TVs, or large fuse boxes) or other devices that use radio frequency (like cordless phones, radios, baby monitors, smart home devices, etc.) between your tado° devices and the Internet Bridge. Also, ensure that your Internet Bridge is not placed too close to a wall, in the corner of a room, or enclosed between wall and furniture.
Make sure that the Internet Bridge is not positioned behind your router. If possible, use a longer Ethernet cable to move the Internet Bridge further away from the router.
Make sure that there is a distance of at least 3 meters between the Internet Bridge and your other tado° devices.
Make sure that your Internet Bridge is placed in a way that makes it equally far from all your tado° devices. If the current position of your router does not allow for this, try using a powerline adapter to connect the Internet Bridge to the internet.
markiii said:
isn;t Tado entirely useless without Internet?
The Tado functionality wouldn't work.I think there's something about being able to operate the receiver manually if it's been offline for 30mins but I've never tested that.
I messed up the hot water side of ours on Christmas Eve and worked around it by operating the motorised valve manually. If needed, I could also do that for the heating and operate the smart TRVs manually (or even unmount them - takes a second) if all else failed.
I don't know what the over-ride solution would be for a Combi boiler.
Another recommendation needed here. We're doing work on our house and need to upgrade our thermostat as we've having underfloor heating put in to the new kitchen. It's 4-bedroom but only Mrs 2Btoo and I live here. It's an old house with pretty thick walls but we have house-wide ethernet with a couple of WiFi access points.
I'd guess that we have about 24 rads (including towel rails) and will have one UFH zone. The rads aren't zoned at the moment, but all have regular TRV's on them.
What's the best option for us? Simple and reliable are the key points, and we're not that interested in cutting-edge tech. However the current wired Honeywell panel simply won't cut it for much longer.
(Forgive me being an idle hound and not reading the while of this thread ....)
ETA: Combi boiler, so no hot water tank.
I'd guess that we have about 24 rads (including towel rails) and will have one UFH zone. The rads aren't zoned at the moment, but all have regular TRV's on them.
What's the best option for us? Simple and reliable are the key points, and we're not that interested in cutting-edge tech. However the current wired Honeywell panel simply won't cut it for much longer.
(Forgive me being an idle hound and not reading the while of this thread ....)
ETA: Combi boiler, so no hot water tank.
Edited by 2Btoo on Wednesday 18th January 18:25
dmsims said:
Why have you got 24 rads in a 4 bedroom house ?
That's a lot of rads - big rooms and more than one rad in a room to even the temp distribution?2Btoo said:
It's 4-bedroom but only Mrs 2Btoo and I live here.
I'd guess that we have about 24 rads (including towel rails) and will have one UFH zone.
I'd guess that we have about 24 rads (including towel rails) and will have one UFH zone.
B'stard Child said:
dmsims said:
Why have you got 24 rads in a 4 bedroom house ?
That's a lot of rads - big rooms and more than one rad in a room to even the temp distribution?2Btoo said:
It's 4-bedroom but only Mrs 2Btoo and I live here.
I'd guess that we have about 24 rads (including towel rails) and will have one UFH zone.
I'd guess that we have about 24 rads (including towel rails) and will have one UFH zone.
- Main bedroom: 2
- EnSuite: 1 (towel rail)
- 2nd bedroom: 2
- 3rd bedroom: 1
- 4th bedroom: 2
- EnSuite: 1
- Bathroom: 2 (towel rails)
- Landing: 2
- Hallway: 1
- Downstairs WC: 1
- Utility room: 1
- Lounge: 1
- Dining room: 3
- Kitchen: UFH
- Piano Room: 1
So 21 and one UFH zone. It's not a huge house but several rooms have two small radiators when you might only expect one large one.
cptsideways said:
Can anyone suggest a good WiFi thermostat that's not hive that when the system fails it's default boiler/heating on.
Has to be able to work in a large house. Range through thick walls arc.
Our new hive system has been comedy bad, forever offline, failing, there's no on button that works if the system fails.
The Hive receiver which is hard wired to the boiler has override buttons for heating and hot water?Has to be able to work in a large house. Range through thick walls arc.
Our new hive system has been comedy bad, forever offline, failing, there's no on button that works if the system fails.
If I understood you request correctly though, I don't think you'll find any heating system that will default to switching on when it loses connectivity to its wireless stat etc.
Sheepshanks said:
markiii said:
isn;t Tado entirely useless without Internet?
The Tado functionality wouldn't work.I think there's something about being able to operate the receiver manually if it's been offline for 30mins but I've never tested that.
I messed up the hot water side of ours on Christmas Eve and worked around it by operating the motorised valve manually. If needed, I could also do that for the heating and operate the smart TRVs manually (or even unmount them - takes a second) if all else failed.
I don't know what the over-ride solution would be for a Combi boiler.
Are you sure.
Ours appears to continue to work fine without the internet. Ok, so no weather compensation or geo fencing but the heating fires up on time and all stats control to the schedule.
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