Ask an Electrician anything...

Ask an Electrician anything...

Author
Discussion

Snow and Rocks

1,952 posts

28 months

Saturday 4th May
quotequote all
finlo said:
What is it tripping, MCB or RCD?
Good question.

It's tripping the right most switch marked sockets if that helps - the pump is just on a normal 3 pin plug plugged into a double socket in the plant room.


Regbuser

3,710 posts

36 months

Saturday 4th May
quotequote all
If that's a B curve protection device (5xflc), then it's too sensitive for a pump, which should really be a C curve (10xflc).

Or it may be the pump motor is starting to suffer moisture ingress. A Megger would be useful to test the insulation resistance.

finlo

3,781 posts

204 months

Saturday 4th May
quotequote all
Snow and Rocks said:
finlo said:
What is it tripping, MCB or RCD?
Good question.

It's tripping the right most switch marked sockets if that helps - the pump is just on a normal 3 pin plug plugged into a double socket in the plant room.

Unless already highly loaded a 50A breaker takes a lot to trip, what size is the MCB in the garage CU that covers the circuit the pump is plugged into?

Regbuser

3,710 posts

36 months

Saturday 4th May
quotequote all
It's the 32A marked sockets, not the 50A.

Also, with a 30mA RCD function in the breaker, well that's going to trip on a sump pump all day long.

You'd be better off putting a dedicated non-rcd circuit just for the pump.

Edited by Regbuser on Sunday 5th May 11:46

Snow and Rocks

1,952 posts

28 months

Sunday 5th May
quotequote all
Regbuser said:
If that's a B curve protection device (5xflc), then it's too sensitive for a pump, which should really be a C curve (10xflc).

Or it may be the pump motor is starting to suffer moisture ingress. A Megger would be useful to test the insulation resistance.
Thanks everyone, hopefully the pump is good as it's only about 6 months old but you never know.

The only things running off the circuit are the pump and some very low draw water filtration equipment. Will mention the above to the electrician when he's back and see what he reckons.

twocolours

153 posts

148 months

Wednesday 8th May
quotequote all
Not sure if anyone can help with this...

Our shed has power (lights and sockets) via a small consumer unit in the shed fed from the house. I usually use a socket in the shed when mowing the lawn at the far end of the garden.

Recently bought a scarifier and plugged it into one of the shed sockets and as soon as I turned it on it tripped the circuit breaker for the sockets in the shed consumer unit. Tried another socket in the shed and the same happened. Plugged it into one of the outdoor sockets on the house and it worked fine.

It's not an issue as I can use an extension from the house outdoor socket but wondered what was up? The two circuit breakers in the shed are B6 for sockets and B32 for lights, the pond pump is also run off the socket circuit. Is it a case of the scarifier requiring too much power where as the mower doesn't and therfore works fine? All the shed electrics were installed before we bought the house.

miniman

25,118 posts

263 months

Wednesday 8th May
quotequote all
Those breakers are the wrong way round.

twocolours

153 posts

148 months

Wednesday 8th May
quotequote all
miniman said:
Those breakers are the wrong way round.
I did think they seemed the wrong way around (to my non electrician mind) to the point I had to double check which was which. Thanks for confirming

guitarcarfanatic

1,619 posts

136 months

Wednesday 8th May
quotequote all
twocolours said:
Not sure if anyone can help with this...

Our shed has power (lights and sockets) via a small consumer unit in the shed fed from the house. I usually use a socket in the shed when mowing the lawn at the far end of the garden.

Recently bought a scarifier and plugged it into one of the shed sockets and as soon as I turned it on it tripped the circuit breaker for the sockets in the shed consumer unit. Tried another socket in the shed and the same happened. Plugged it into one of the outdoor sockets on the house and it worked fine.

It's not an issue as I can use an extension from the house outdoor socket but wondered what was up? The two circuit breakers in the shed are B6 for sockets and B32 for lights, the pond pump is also run off the socket circuit. Is it a case of the scarifier requiring too much power where as the mower doesn't and therfore works fine? All the shed electrics were installed before we bought the house.
Your 6amp circuit should be for lights and 32amp for the sockets. A 1500w scarifier probably pulls around 6ish amps so is tripping the breaker.

twocolours

153 posts

148 months

Wednesday 8th May
quotequote all
guitarcarfanatic said:
Your 6amp circuit should be for lights and 32amp for the sockets. A 1500w scarifier probably pulls around 6ish amps so is tripping the breaker.
Thank you, I'll get them swapped over

PhilboSE

4,418 posts

227 months

Tuesday 14th May
quotequote all
I’m rewiring some bedrooms for downlights rather than the oddly positioned pendant they currently have.

The “first” downlight has all the wires that used to be in the pendant fitting: live feed in and out, live/switched live run to the switch, and the loop to the luminaire itself.

Is it better to have this bundle in the ceiling void to be pulled through with the luminaire (so it’s accessible as it used to be), or should I place the bundles with the wago blocks in a box in the attic, and a fly lead to the down light?

No ideas for a name

2,235 posts

87 months

Tuesday 14th May
quotequote all
PhilboSE said:
I’m rewiring some bedrooms for downlights rather than the oddly positioned pendant they currently have.

The “first” downlight has all the wires that used to be in the pendant fitting: live feed in and out, live/switched live run to the switch, and the loop to the luminaire itself.

Is it better to have this bundle in the ceiling void to be pulled through with the luminaire (so it’s accessible as it used to be), or should I place the bundles with the wago blocks in a box in the attic, and a fly lead to the down light?
Both?

If you use a WAGOBOX, then the wiring can be safely contained in the box AND they are sized to be stuffed through the downlight hole. Still use a flylead to each light.

I am assuming you can't get to the loft - otherwise just wire the WAGOBOX up there and screw it down neatly.

IANAE

ccr32

1,983 posts

219 months

Friday 17th May
quotequote all
gmaz said:
If I'm putting downlights in an upstairs bedroom with just the loft above it, do they need to be fire-rated?

The bedroom has the gas boiler in it, if that makes a difference.
No, not the last time I checked. But be wary of some non fire rated down lights and the space they need to have around them - you may not be able to cover them with insulation for instance, which might be a problem if it’s just the loft above.

gmaz

4,442 posts

211 months

Friday 17th May
quotequote all
ccr32 said:
gmaz said:
If I'm putting downlights in an upstairs bedroom with just the loft above it, do they need to be fire-rated?

The bedroom has the gas boiler in it, if that makes a difference.
No, not the last time I checked. But be wary of some non fire rated down lights and the space they need to have around them - you may not be able to cover them with insulation for instance, which might be a problem if it’s just the loft above.
I used these ones which have an insulation guard built in.

https://www.toolstation.com/integral-led-evofire-i...

dhutch

14,403 posts

198 months

Saturday 18th May
quotequote all
Dont fit down lighters in a bedroom, hateful things at the best of times, let alone shining directly in your face?

Actual

783 posts

107 months

Sunday 19th May
quotequote all
dhutch said:
Dont fit down lighters in a bedroom, hateful things at the best of times, let alone shining directly in your face?
In our house it made sense for the bedroom to use a main light and downlighters around the edges of the room to illuminate wardrobes. These lights were only used occasionally such as for getting dressed to go out. For normal bedroom activities the bedside lights were perfect.

gmaz

4,442 posts

211 months

Sunday 19th May
quotequote all
dhutch said:
Dont fit down lighters in a bedroom, hateful things at the best of times, let alone shining directly in your face?
They are on a dimmer

The Road Crew

4,241 posts

161 months

Sunday 19th May
quotequote all
1mm or 1.5mm cable for lighting?

I'm adding 9 spotlights from an existing ceiling rose.

silentbrown

8,887 posts

117 months

Monday 20th May
quotequote all
gmaz said:
dhutch said:
Dont fit down lighters in a bedroom, hateful things at the best of times, let alone shining directly in your face?
They are on a dimmer
Still don't!

I'm still not convinced that LED + dimmers are a good combination. I've used the Varilight V-pro in a few places around the house, and find them a bit frustrating.

  • Slow startup time - I want to push the switch and get instant light rather than wait a second for it it ramp up.
  • Flicker can still be an issue at low brightness levels, even after tweaking the settings.
  • Sometime they randomly drop into 'programming mode' when turned on. so levels slowly ramp up and down before it returns to normal.
In practice, they're mainly used as on-off switches, and lighting gets adjusted by having different lights on.

dhutch

14,403 posts

198 months

Monday 20th May
quotequote all
The Road Crew said:
1mm or 1.5mm cable for lighting?

I'm adding 9 spotlights from an existing ceiling rose.
Depends on distances and power draw involved. But for short runs, and or LED units, 1mm should be ample.