Cabinetry - Are dovetail joints worth it if painting over?
Discussion
Thinking about building a wooden toy box for the playroom. Dovetail joints seem to be the way to go for a professional finish, but if I'm painting the whole thing, then you'll not see the joints. So would it still be ok to save the time/effort of dovetailing by doing a simple glue & dowel joint? Alternatively, I could use glue and pocket-hole screw the sides together and insert plugs. Would either be strong enough to withstand a bit of child heavy-handedness? Or is it worth shelling out for a dovetail jig (dont have one yet).
Dowels or screws will be plenty.
No harm in going for dovetails to experiement/learn something new.
The only downside to using dowels is needing big clamps if you want to make big toy boxes. Quick clamps aren't really sufficient for closing up tight dowel joints, so you'll probably want some decent clamps, if you don't alrady have them. I have since learned you can put the dowels on a peice of tissue roll or similar and in to a bowl, then microwave on a very low setting 4 or 5 times for about 15 seconds a pop, and that takes the moisture out of them. Makes them a bit easier to work with if it's already a really tight fit.
Last ones I did I used - http://www.screwfix.com/p/trend-snappy-drill-bit-c...
Then used the Ronseal 2 part wood filler to fill all the screw holes. I probably wouldn't use the 2 part stuff again. It's easily the hardest of all the fillers, but a pain to use when you have so many holes to fill, so I'd just use the Ronseal tube stuff or any other ready mixed stuff.
No harm in going for dovetails to experiement/learn something new.
The only downside to using dowels is needing big clamps if you want to make big toy boxes. Quick clamps aren't really sufficient for closing up tight dowel joints, so you'll probably want some decent clamps, if you don't alrady have them. I have since learned you can put the dowels on a peice of tissue roll or similar and in to a bowl, then microwave on a very low setting 4 or 5 times for about 15 seconds a pop, and that takes the moisture out of them. Makes them a bit easier to work with if it's already a really tight fit.
Last ones I did I used - http://www.screwfix.com/p/trend-snappy-drill-bit-c...
Then used the Ronseal 2 part wood filler to fill all the screw holes. I probably wouldn't use the 2 part stuff again. It's easily the hardest of all the fillers, but a pain to use when you have so many holes to fill, so I'd just use the Ronseal tube stuff or any other ready mixed stuff.
A lot is going to depend on the type and thickness of wood you are using.
A box/finger joint will work with relatively thin ply and gives a lot of surface area for glue in lieu of the extra mechanical interlock of the dovetail. A dovetail also often needs more meat in the carcase material as would dowel or screws
A box/finger joint will work with relatively thin ply and gives a lot of surface area for glue in lieu of the extra mechanical interlock of the dovetail. A dovetail also often needs more meat in the carcase material as would dowel or screws
p1esk said:
Back in my school days (a very long time ago!) I seem to recall doing a woodwork exercise that involved a mitred (or did we call it a secret?) dovetail joint, and that was very difficult to get it anything like neat. I don't suppose anybody would do that sort of joint these days.
Yes, and then paint over it
Look on this toybox as an opportunity to learn new skills.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hk4cwtQJmwU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hk4cwtQJmwU
280E said:
p1esk said:
Back in my school days (a very long time ago!) I seem to recall doing a woodwork exercise that involved a mitred (or did we call it a secret?) dovetail joint, and that was very difficult to get it anything like neat. I don't suppose anybody would do that sort of joint these days.
Yes, and then paint over it
Gassing Station | Homes, Gardens and DIY | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff