Scratch on high gloss tabletop
Discussion
The purchase wasn't my decision as I knew this would happen.
The only saving grace was that it was her, not I , that was the first to do it.
Also she couldn't even think of a reason how it might be my fault, which is highly unusual.
Her choice of glass placemats being pushed by her caused it. A narrow escape.
There is a four foot long scratch down the middle of our six foot long mid-grey high gloss tabletop.
It's from Ikea, so wasn't expensive, but is now discontinued in the size and colour.
It was and still is of course my task to rectify the issue as cheaply and well as possible. After 30 minutes with increasingly harsh abrasive compounds I had in the garage- autoglym srp, poorboys black hole, t cut metallic, normal t cut, nothing was touching it.
You can feel the scratch with your fingernail so the internet told me it would not buff out.
I realised that i needed to fill before polishing, so I got a clear touch up pen from Halfords.
So I now have a four foot long lumpy line on the dining table. All of which is exaggerated in viewas there is a window at the opposite end of the table from the door.
How much time and effort will be needed to sort that? What grade of wet and dry?
How much to get another made? 180 x 85cm
'You are crap at touching in' comments welcome.
I don't have a DA polisher or anything. Just cloths and elbow grease.
The only saving grace was that it was her, not I , that was the first to do it.
Also she couldn't even think of a reason how it might be my fault, which is highly unusual.
Her choice of glass placemats being pushed by her caused it. A narrow escape.
There is a four foot long scratch down the middle of our six foot long mid-grey high gloss tabletop.
It's from Ikea, so wasn't expensive, but is now discontinued in the size and colour.
It was and still is of course my task to rectify the issue as cheaply and well as possible. After 30 minutes with increasingly harsh abrasive compounds I had in the garage- autoglym srp, poorboys black hole, t cut metallic, normal t cut, nothing was touching it.
You can feel the scratch with your fingernail so the internet told me it would not buff out.
I realised that i needed to fill before polishing, so I got a clear touch up pen from Halfords.
So I now have a four foot long lumpy line on the dining table. All of which is exaggerated in viewas there is a window at the opposite end of the table from the door.
How much time and effort will be needed to sort that? What grade of wet and dry?
How much to get another made? 180 x 85cm
'You are crap at touching in' comments welcome.
I don't have a DA polisher or anything. Just cloths and elbow grease.
You've f
ked it!
I would stop now before you make things worse and accept it for what it is (or leave it to a professional). All sanding will do is thin the lacquer around the lump you've just put in so you'll end up with a lump surrounded by burn through. If you really want to crack on, get holed of a carbide de-nibber (to shave off the excess lacquer) then get a proper abrasive polish (I favour Mezerna).
For future reference Autoglym SRP and Black Holes are fillers, not abrasives. No idea what level of abrasive T-Cut is, I've not used that since the early 90's (being a Pistonheader and using t-cut should result in an instant ban
). Also, if you use clear lacquer and thinners (50/50 mix) and apply with an old sponge, it'll fill the cracks without leaving any lumps and any excess is easily removed with a fine wet/dry.
For reference I have some white high gloss kitchen units where the Mrs had let some cleaning chemical drip down the side of one without realising, which left a 'melted drip' within the lacquer itself. I used 3000 grit wet and dry, followed by a rotary sander, Chemical Guys Green Pad and Mezerna 2500 (medium cut, high polish). It's 95% perfect and you can only see under certain lights whilst squinting.
ked it!I would stop now before you make things worse and accept it for what it is (or leave it to a professional). All sanding will do is thin the lacquer around the lump you've just put in so you'll end up with a lump surrounded by burn through. If you really want to crack on, get holed of a carbide de-nibber (to shave off the excess lacquer) then get a proper abrasive polish (I favour Mezerna).
For future reference Autoglym SRP and Black Holes are fillers, not abrasives. No idea what level of abrasive T-Cut is, I've not used that since the early 90's (being a Pistonheader and using t-cut should result in an instant ban
). Also, if you use clear lacquer and thinners (50/50 mix) and apply with an old sponge, it'll fill the cracks without leaving any lumps and any excess is easily removed with a fine wet/dry. For reference I have some white high gloss kitchen units where the Mrs had let some cleaning chemical drip down the side of one without realising, which left a 'melted drip' within the lacquer itself. I used 3000 grit wet and dry, followed by a rotary sander, Chemical Guys Green Pad and Mezerna 2500 (medium cut, high polish). It's 95% perfect and you can only see under certain lights whilst squinting.
HOGEPH said:
rog007 said:
Thanks both for the technical answers. Sounds like a denibber (never heard of one before, where do I get one? How much am i paying) and some crossed fingers may be the result, as I'm not going to spend more than an hour or two and twenty quid on it.
Thread update. Missus saw me doing what I was doing, trying to get the lacquer back down and went off mutttering "fking waste of time"
Comes back 1/2 hour later with a "centre piece" Basically a long piece of slate that covers the worst bits of the scratch.
Saved me hours of work and looks alright. Plus somewhere to put our bottle of 15 year aged organic squeezy bottle ketchup.
Glass placemats are going in the recycling.
king waste of time" Comes back 1/2 hour later with a "centre piece" Basically a long piece of slate that covers the worst bits of the scratch.
Saved me hours of work and looks alright. Plus somewhere to put our bottle of 15 year aged organic squeezy bottle ketchup.
Glass placemats are going in the recycling.
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