Show me your aquarium
Discussion
S11Steve said:
I guess so but then the TTX works on the nervous system so I would have expected them to go. The more I've read about TTX - it's properly nasty stuff, like banned chemical weapons bad....
I found a fire shrimp alive a few minutes ago too - he had a mate somewhere so hopefully both have made it.
Oh, you could quite easily have 'offed' a fair few life enemies!I found a fire shrimp alive a few minutes ago too - he had a mate somewhere so hopefully both have made it.
Something like 90s to guaranteed death for human fugu poisoning if I remember correctly...
8μg (micrograms) is toxic to a mouse - that's only eight 1 millionths of a gram - 12 times more potent than cyanide.
The poison, a sodium channel blocker, paralyzes the muscles while the victim stays fully conscious; the poisoned victim is unable to breathe, and eventually dies from asphyxiation.
And then of course there are the Palytoxins in some of the corals - which is twice as toxic again as TTX....
Saturation diving might just be a safer hobby than this.....
The poison, a sodium channel blocker, paralyzes the muscles while the victim stays fully conscious; the poisoned victim is unable to breathe, and eventually dies from asphyxiation.
And then of course there are the Palytoxins in some of the corals - which is twice as toxic again as TTX....
Saturation diving might just be a safer hobby than this.....
S11Steve said:
8?g (micrograms) is toxic to a mouse - that's only eight 1 millionths of a gram - 12 times more potent than cyanide.
The poison, a sodium channel blocker, paralyzes the muscles while the victim stays fully conscious; the poisoned victim is unable to breathe, and eventually dies from asphyxiation.
And then of course there are the Palytoxins in some of the corals - which is twice as toxic again as TTX....
Saturation diving might just be a safer hobby than this.....
Bloody hell The poison, a sodium channel blocker, paralyzes the muscles while the victim stays fully conscious; the poisoned victim is unable to breathe, and eventually dies from asphyxiation.
And then of course there are the Palytoxins in some of the corals - which is twice as toxic again as TTX....
Saturation diving might just be a safer hobby than this.....
How on earth do you go about getting rid of the waste in a situation like this?
On second thoughts, I don’t want to know.
As nice as marine are, I think I’ll stick to guppies, tetras etc.
And sorry Steve, I don’t know anyone with a swimming pool.
105.4 said:
Bloody hell
How on earth do you go about getting rid of the waste in a situation like this?
On second thoughts, I don’t want to know.
Drained the tank slowly through a normal garden hose into a bucket of carbon with a couple of hoels punched in the bottom. The water that came out of the bottom was then heavily diluted with a fast flowing garden tap and into the drainHow on earth do you go about getting rid of the waste in a situation like this?
On second thoughts, I don’t want to know.
All waste carbon and fish carcases were triple bagged and gone into biohazard bins for incineration.
S11Steve said:
8?g (micrograms) is toxic to a mouse - that's only eight 1 millionths of a gram - 12 times more potent than cyanide.
The poison, a sodium channel blocker, paralyzes the muscles while the victim stays fully conscious; the poisoned victim is unable to breathe, and eventually dies from asphyxiation.
And then of course there are the Palytoxins in some of the corals - which is twice as toxic again as TTX....
Saturation diving might just be a safer hobby than this.....
And from what I've read no known antidote.The poison, a sodium channel blocker, paralyzes the muscles while the victim stays fully conscious; the poisoned victim is unable to breathe, and eventually dies from asphyxiation.
And then of course there are the Palytoxins in some of the corals - which is twice as toxic again as TTX....
Saturation diving might just be a safer hobby than this.....
Sorry to hear of the losses
I've done some risky things in my life - including jumping out of perfectly serviceable aircraft - but I think marine aquaria is just a tad too far!
Edited by paintman on Monday 12th April 18:12
paintman said:
And from what I've read no known antidote.
Sorry to hear of the losses
I've done some risky things in my life - including jumping out of perfectly serviceable aircraft - but I think marine aquaria is just a tad too far!
Yep, Marine reefing is crazy.Sorry to hear of the losses
I've done some risky things in my life - including jumping out of perfectly serviceable aircraft - but I think marine aquaria is just a tad too far!
Edited by paintman on Monday 12th April 18:12
I got as far as actually having an empty 250 Red Sea Reefer setup in the lounge, and I STILL bottled it......
Stunning to look at, but the investment to make as good as can be is huge, and you can be the best fish keeper in the world and the feckers still die....
And when they die, if you are *lucky* you have only lost the £60ish for the fish...if you are really unlucky, you get a huge tank crash like steve and can lose EVRYTHING......
Think Ill stick with psychotic incestous Rift Cichlids thanks......
I dunno. Zero comment on Steve's tank, as that's nothing to do with money spent, setup or husbandry - but I see so many 'forum revered' posters who spend thousands and thousands on equipment, only for their long running tank threads to be constant losses/crashes/issues/etc.
It's like the difference between a regular planted tank, and a super high energy one with mega lights and immense CO2 injection...
Sometimes, I can't help but feel there's way too much w
king off over expensive kit, making things way to complex - and constantly changing things. One, the dude must have spent £20k in the first six months on an under 500l system. Utterly mental.
I also recall the chase for ultra low nutrient systems - now replaced by people actually dosing phosphate and nitrates!
Example - I was recommended the Radion XR15 for my tank. £450 including bracket, for a 50l nano that's got soft corals and 'easy' lps... With a straight face, the advisor (not a salesman, but hobbyist) told me that it was worth it as I'd only be running it at 10%... Instead, I went middle ground - but could easily have bought a great light for all the corals I'd like to keep for £70.
Same for reactors - when a tenner bag of purigen or chemipure lasts me over six months to control phos.
It's one good thing my nano has taught me - previously I'd put off any bigger due to the cost. Now, I'm quite comfortable in planning a much bigger tank than my current, with spending being entirely 'hobby reasonable'. But then, I also like buying small corals, and taking the time to see them grow/fill the space. I'm also not fussed by the 'named' coral bullshine.
There is a fish or two I'd love for my upgrade that are pretty expensive - and fragile. As much as I'd love to keep them, it's just not worth it.
It's like the difference between a regular planted tank, and a super high energy one with mega lights and immense CO2 injection...
Sometimes, I can't help but feel there's way too much w
king off over expensive kit, making things way to complex - and constantly changing things. One, the dude must have spent £20k in the first six months on an under 500l system. Utterly mental. I also recall the chase for ultra low nutrient systems - now replaced by people actually dosing phosphate and nitrates!
Example - I was recommended the Radion XR15 for my tank. £450 including bracket, for a 50l nano that's got soft corals and 'easy' lps... With a straight face, the advisor (not a salesman, but hobbyist) told me that it was worth it as I'd only be running it at 10%... Instead, I went middle ground - but could easily have bought a great light for all the corals I'd like to keep for £70.
Same for reactors - when a tenner bag of purigen or chemipure lasts me over six months to control phos.
It's one good thing my nano has taught me - previously I'd put off any bigger due to the cost. Now, I'm quite comfortable in planning a much bigger tank than my current, with spending being entirely 'hobby reasonable'. But then, I also like buying small corals, and taking the time to see them grow/fill the space. I'm also not fussed by the 'named' coral bullshine.
There is a fish or two I'd love for my upgrade that are pretty expensive - and fragile. As much as I'd love to keep them, it's just not worth it.
I've kept fish for 25 years, initially pond, then tropical, then marine, and quite a few overlaps.
One thing I've always believed in is keeping it simple, but don't buy cheap. I'd rather buy a mid range tried and trusted product, over a cheap aliexpress special or also even a high end iPump Pro with unobtainium bearings and alexa control.
I've got filter socks and media, slow-flowing refugium, skimmer, phosphate reactor, and return pump in the sump, two high output gyre flow power heads and the 3 Radion lights.
The lights are overkill, but they are engineered to last, easy to use and were at a price I was happy with.
I didn't go down the route of automatic dosing, and cultivating corals, I just wanted a big centrepiece tank with lots of nice fish and a few pretty things without spending hours each week water testing.
The size alone is a mission in itself, but it's so routine - feed, clean, change water. I test the water about every 8-12 weeks and the parameters have barely changed in at least 4 years.
Even the test I've done today isn't far off to normally concern me, but I don't have a test kit for nerve agents...
I'm still worried about Everton, he's hiding, looking very pale and breathing erratically. I've put an airstone near to him to see if that helps, but I'm not as hopeful as I was earlier.
One thing I've always believed in is keeping it simple, but don't buy cheap. I'd rather buy a mid range tried and trusted product, over a cheap aliexpress special or also even a high end iPump Pro with unobtainium bearings and alexa control.
I've got filter socks and media, slow-flowing refugium, skimmer, phosphate reactor, and return pump in the sump, two high output gyre flow power heads and the 3 Radion lights.
The lights are overkill, but they are engineered to last, easy to use and were at a price I was happy with.
I didn't go down the route of automatic dosing, and cultivating corals, I just wanted a big centrepiece tank with lots of nice fish and a few pretty things without spending hours each week water testing.
The size alone is a mission in itself, but it's so routine - feed, clean, change water. I test the water about every 8-12 weeks and the parameters have barely changed in at least 4 years.
Even the test I've done today isn't far off to normally concern me, but I don't have a test kit for nerve agents...
I'm still worried about Everton, he's hiding, looking very pale and breathing erratically. I've put an airstone near to him to see if that helps, but I'm not as hopeful as I was earlier.
Sounds like a similar approach to me Steve - and one I therefore wholeheartedly support!
One thing I would say - livestock dependant but there's tonnes of corals which would thrive in your setup just as it is, without any dosing or anything.
If they're growing fine in mine, with no dosing just water changes - and that includes a reasonable 'stock' of stoney skeleton building corals (which are growing - and fast) - with your volume/setup they'd be absolutely loving life!
One thing I would say - livestock dependant but there's tonnes of corals which would thrive in your setup just as it is, without any dosing or anything.
If they're growing fine in mine, with no dosing just water changes - and that includes a reasonable 'stock' of stoney skeleton building corals (which are growing - and fast) - with your volume/setup they'd be absolutely loving life!
Morning all, quick stupid question time I’m afraid.
Just moved into our new place and I’ve installed our Vision 450 and Lido 200. I’d like to get water in both tanks ASAP to start the cycling process. Before I get started I’d just like to check I’ve got the process correct?
1: Add sand / substrate and ornaments to each tank
2: Add water and de-chlorination tablets / liquid
3: Install filters, water heater & air stone
4: Hopefully add some bacteria rich media from aquatics shop
5: Add neat ammonia to 3ppm and test daily, topping up if required
I know I’ve missed the nitrite / nitrate steps out, but they’ll be a few weeks down the line. I just wanted to check I’ve got the very first steps sorted out first.
What are the thoughts on adding a couple of dirty, hardy, sacrificial fish early in the process?
Sorry about the mess, but we are still in the process of moving in.
Just moved into our new place and I’ve installed our Vision 450 and Lido 200. I’d like to get water in both tanks ASAP to start the cycling process. Before I get started I’d just like to check I’ve got the process correct?
1: Add sand / substrate and ornaments to each tank
2: Add water and de-chlorination tablets / liquid
3: Install filters, water heater & air stone
4: Hopefully add some bacteria rich media from aquatics shop
5: Add neat ammonia to 3ppm and test daily, topping up if required
I know I’ve missed the nitrite / nitrate steps out, but they’ll be a few weeks down the line. I just wanted to check I’ve got the very first steps sorted out first.
What are the thoughts on adding a couple of dirty, hardy, sacrificial fish early in the process?
Sorry about the mess, but we are still in the process of moving in.
Agreed with otolith.
Please, don't put fish in. Hardly or not, you're choosing to cause them harm (it just doesn't kill them) purely to provide an ammonia source you can provide yourself.
Some substrate/filter media from shop is great - as are the bottles of bacteria.
Key, is seeing the conversion from ammonia to nitrite to nitrate. Once done, then big water change and drop fish in... During that process, I personally wait until the ammonia drops to zero - I'll then dose to 1ppm and I want to see it disappear through to nitrate in under 24hrs.
If you want some ammonia, I've a bottle here that's barely been used - drop me a PM and I'll be in the post.
Please, don't put fish in. Hardly or not, you're choosing to cause them harm (it just doesn't kill them) purely to provide an ammonia source you can provide yourself.
Some substrate/filter media from shop is great - as are the bottles of bacteria.
Key, is seeing the conversion from ammonia to nitrite to nitrate. Once done, then big water change and drop fish in... During that process, I personally wait until the ammonia drops to zero - I'll then dose to 1ppm and I want to see it disappear through to nitrate in under 24hrs.
If you want some ammonia, I've a bottle here that's barely been used - drop me a PM and I'll be in the post.
Nothing ever good will come from rushing a tank set up....
Get it wet, drop a prawn or some sort of ammonia source in there, get it the water flowing and warm, seed the filter with bacteria some existing filter media, but leave the lights off. Water test a couple of times over the next week or two while you get on with the house move, but forget about fish for a couple of weeks. Do a water change or two when the nitrates start to creep up then look at getting a couple of small fish in there, 2-3 weeks later, a a few more small fish and so on.
In other news, I lost Everton last night
He'd been hiding behind rocks for most of the day, but finally came out for a few minutes before falling over and stopped moving. I put him back into the quarantine bucket, but he didn't come round.
Although we have got to know the people at the cancer treatment centre quite well, it is still a weird thing to ask "Can I put a huge dead fish in your biohazard waste bin please?"
Get it wet, drop a prawn or some sort of ammonia source in there, get it the water flowing and warm, seed the filter with bacteria some existing filter media, but leave the lights off. Water test a couple of times over the next week or two while you get on with the house move, but forget about fish for a couple of weeks. Do a water change or two when the nitrates start to creep up then look at getting a couple of small fish in there, 2-3 weeks later, a a few more small fish and so on.
In other news, I lost Everton last night
He'd been hiding behind rocks for most of the day, but finally came out for a few minutes before falling over and stopped moving. I put him back into the quarantine bucket, but he didn't come round.
Although we have got to know the people at the cancer treatment centre quite well, it is still a weird thing to ask "Can I put a huge dead fish in your biohazard waste bin please?"
Not quite start from scratch, I had already paid a deposit on a new steel framed cabinet to be swapped over in the summer, so I will leave the tank as it is for the time being, and the rock I've removed is being leached clean so will be put in again when everything is swapped over.
The cabinet swap was a worry given the scale of getting the rock out into a large vat, then catching 40 odd fish to put in another vat, draining, un-plumbing, and lifting the tank off the older wooden cabinet, then doing it all again in reverse.
That one sentence is scheduled to take 3 days....!
With what has come out in the last few days, the swap will likely only take two days now. Every cloud and all that....
And whilst I've started typing this, my Yellow Coris Wrasse has re-appeared. They are known to burrow into sand when stressed, so maybe that has protected it over the last few days. There were another 2 flasher wrasse that are also prone to burrowing, so maybe they are still hiding too.
The cabinet swap was a worry given the scale of getting the rock out into a large vat, then catching 40 odd fish to put in another vat, draining, un-plumbing, and lifting the tank off the older wooden cabinet, then doing it all again in reverse.
That one sentence is scheduled to take 3 days....!
With what has come out in the last few days, the swap will likely only take two days now. Every cloud and all that....
And whilst I've started typing this, my Yellow Coris Wrasse has re-appeared. They are known to burrow into sand when stressed, so maybe that has protected it over the last few days. There were another 2 flasher wrasse that are also prone to burrowing, so maybe they are still hiding too.
Sway said:
So pleased about the wrasse - my understanding is if they're out, they're happy.
If the coris has come though, I'd hope the flashers have too...
As an aside, do you get any clean up crew predation by the wrasse?
Not that I've noticed, although the shrimps and most of the snails and crabs are far bigger than the little mouth could cope with. There's plenty of algae grazing and micro-crustaceans for it to pick at between daily feeds, so it doesn't have much need to be predatory.If the coris has come though, I'd hope the flashers have too...
As an aside, do you get any clean up crew predation by the wrasse?
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