Are you well dressed? A PH gentleman thread.

[craigjm]

DuncanM said:

Just reading the long post about suits:

The trousers should sit on your true waist which for most people means that the waistband will be over their belly button. The bottom button of a two button suit should also be at this point.

Really? How many people are wearing suits with the waistband on their belly button nowadays?

Everyone who buys a bespoke hand made suit because that is where it is supposed to be. It doesn't create a sillouette like Simon Cowell at all because the rest of the trousers are in proportion. This is where proper tailored clothes vary dramatically in some respects from what people expect but is essentially why the look overall is right.

[InductionRoar]

13m said:

InductionRoar said:

13m said:

The Smedley knits come up in all different fits. The Marcus, for example, is quite a slim fit and you won't get the tent effect.

Both the pullovers I have (Bampton and Luke) are slim fit and fit nicely around the chest and shoulders but aren't as tapered as I expected. The Gowan which is an easy fit is nice and snug everywhere.

I did size up for the slim fits (medium to large) but they assured me that was correct based on the chest measurements of the garment.

They're pretty helpful on the phone, and will advise regarding the best size to choose, based upon previous successful purchases.

Or perhaps a better option, if one has a Gizlaroc Gentleman's Outfitters locally, is calling in to a retail store. Whatever the route, though, there is a huge difference between fit and sizing between models.

I spoke to one of their assistants via their chat function about this and she was adamant that all their pullovers fit the same within their designated fit (slim, standard and easy) but cardigans are cut differently so are not comparable though they also fit the same within their own designations too.

She said that slim fit is their most contoured so assuming the chest measurement is correct (which it is) there is not a more fitted option available.

[g3org3y]

phil_cardiff said:

craigjm said:

The tan shoes? that is the opinion of the house not mine personally although I prefer a darker brown

That and the four in hand knot. But I am a peasant who doesn't mind a bit of asymmetry.

Me neither. As long as I can get a good dimple I'm happy.

[craigjm]

g3org3y said:

phil_cardiff said:

craigjm said:

The tan shoes? that is the opinion of the house not mine personally although I prefer a darker brown

That and the four in hand knot. But I am a peasant who doesn't mind a bit of asymmetry.

Me neither. As long as I can get a good dimple I'm happy.

Try an Agnelli twist. Works really well to import a little "disheveled elegance" into your look, and its motoring linked, whats not to like! to do that you tie the knot as you would for a four in hand but instead of going round once you go round twice and what you end up with is a tie with a slight twist in the way it sits and the dimple slightly to one side. Instant Sprezzatura to your outfit and instant attention over the guy who has everything formal and straight.

[iphonedyou]

Trabi601 said:

• yawn*

You mean, I'm a left-leaning liberal who doesn't dress like 'Tory Boy'?

So many people with stupidly inflated opinions of themselves, not to mention some ridiculously dated little Englander xenophobic and racist views. It's bloody laughable. But it amuses me hugely. I've never come across a place where people post such fantasy and ridiculously over-inflated opinions of themselves!

Hark at you, shoe horning politics into yet another thread, completely unwarranted. Arguing against a point you, yourself, have put forward. Patronising, judging and insulting others for what they wear yet lacking the self awareness to see the irony in your lambasting others for their 'over-inflated opinions of themselves!'

No wonder you're yawning.

[Goaty Bill 2]

Thankyou4calling said:

DuncanM said:

Just reading the long post about suits:

The trousers should sit on your true waist which for most people means that the waistband will be over their belly button. The bottom button of a two button suit should also be at this point.

Really? How many people are wearing suits with the waistband on their belly button nowadays?

Simon Cowell ?

Aside from him (anything aside from him please), pardon the cross forum quote, but these trousers look to be fitted and worn as described. I think it looks pretty good.

Goaty Bill 2 said:

Today, most people use the TV series Mad Men to demonstrate classic suit styles.
We had this guy;

[antspants]

g3org3y said:

Not an elbow patch in sight.

I've got jackets that look very similar to the first and third from the right, but will be looking for one like that blue one in the middle now - lovely colour, and I look good in blue according to the wife

Tweed is definitely not old hat, or just for pensioners. Anybody with a modicum of modern fashion sense would have seen that tweed has been very popular the last couple of years. Not that everybody should be sheep and follow the latest trends but knocking it for being old fashioned is a bit rich

I like tweed jackets because they give a classic twist to a modern outfit, skinny jeans etc.

[tertius]

craigjm said:

phil_cardiff said:

craigjm said:

Couple of days ago was quoted in this thread by Georgy on 12 September

Thanks.

Some things I knew, some I didn't and some I didn't agree with

The tan shoes? that is the opinion of the house not mine personally although I prefer a darker brown

I agree it was a good read, my only point of disagreement was regarding vents - I think any vents at all make your arse look big, so I have none in my suits.

Regarding tweed I'll have to photograph my tweed suits - it's a fantastically versatile material and I have several that are in quite a "city" style which I wear happily in the City.

[craigjm]

tertius said:

I agree it was a good read, my only point of disagreement was regarding vents - I think any vents at all make your arse look big, so I have none in my suits.

Depends how large you are. If you are slim then yes no vents can give a good silhouette but if you are overweight at all then they look awful like an overstuffed sausage I have one suit where I went for no vents at all and i hardly wear it because it doesn't feel natural to me when sitting down.

[tertius]

craigjm said:

tertius said:

I agree it was a good read, my only point of disagreement was regarding vents - I think any vents at all make your arse look big, so I have none in my suits.

Depends how large you are. If you are slim then yes no vents can give a good silhouette but if you are overweight at all then they look awful like an overstuffed sausage I have one suit where I went for no vents at all and i hardly wear it because it doesn't feel natural to me when sitting down.

6'4" and 82kg (in a superb mixing of imperial and metric) so basically a lanky streak of p1ss ...

[RichB]

Goaty Bill 2 said:

Thankyou4calling said:

DuncanM said:

Just reading the long post about suits:

The trousers should sit on your true waist which for most people means that the waistband will be over their belly button. The bottom button of a two button suit should also be at this point. Really? How many people are wearing suits with the waistband on their belly button nowadays?

Simon Cowell ?

Aside from him (anything aside from him please), pardon the cross forum quote, but these trousers look to be fitted and worn as described. I think it looks pretty good.

Goaty Bill 2 said:

Today, most people use the TV series Mad Men to demonstrate classic suit styles.
We had this guy;

I would suggest that Michael Douglas's waist is 3-4" higher than the waistband of those trousers. More like where the elastic of his braces ends.

[Goaty Bill 2]

tertius said:

6'4" and 82kg (in a superb mixing of imperial and metric) so basically a lanky streak of p1ss ...

Love it.
My children, who have of course no experience whatsoever of imperial measurements, get that kind of thing from me all the time.
Really no idea why they put up with me at all

[13m]

Goaty Bill 2 said:

Love it.
My children, who have of course no experience whatsoever of imperial measurements, get that kind of thing from me all the time.
Really no idea why they put up with me at all

It's financial.

[craigjm]

http://timelessman.com.au/advice/proper-trouser-he...

https://parisiangentleman.co.uk/academy/pull-your-...

[DuncanM]

craigjm said:

http://timelessman.com.au/advice/proper-trouser-he...

https://parisiangentleman.co.uk/academy/pull-your-...

Still the majority of pics are not as high as belly button. In fact, the second link, the last pic of the authors? No where near.

I love this thread, and I think there's some great advice posted here.

However I think that there is a balance between tradition and style, and obsessing over tradition can be as big a mistake as any imo. Ticking all the boxes on the 'correct way' list, doesn't guarantee anything really does it?

[tertius]

DuncanM said:

craigjm said:

http://timelessman.com.au/advice/proper-trouser-he...

https://parisiangentleman.co.uk/academy/pull-your-...

Still the majority of pics are not as high as belly button. In fact, the second link, the last pic of the authors? No where near.

I love this thread, and I think there's some great advice posted here.

However I think that there is a balance between tradition and style, and obsessing over tradition can be as big a mistake as any imo. Ticking all the boxes on the 'correct way' list, doesn't guarantee anything really does it?

Good post quite agree, like the cobblers a couple of pages back about not wearing a watch with a dinner suit because you shouldn't be worrying about the time. Well I'm sorry but people don't live like that any more - people have last trains to catch, or babysitters who need to leave at specific times, etc..

Tradition is good, I love tradition, but don't be a slave to it.

[Tom1312]

Gents recommend me a decent leather jacket? Preferably biker style, not a massive budget and willing to go used...

I like black, but will consider other options if you can find anything?

[philthy]

The Spruce goose said:

I for one am as scruffy as it gets. I could wear the most expensive clothes made for man and within 30 seconds on me would look like a tramp.

Me too.
I've spent fortunes on decking myself out in the past, but always end up looking like a sack of potatoes?

[craigjm]

DuncanM said:

craigjm said:

However I think that there is a balance between tradition and style, and obsessing over tradition can be as big a mistake as any imo. Ticking all the boxes on the 'correct way' list, doesn't guarantee anything really does it?

I agree entirely. I do not obsess over tradition.i take the advice of how something should be and then for me rules are there to be played with and broken. I have a number of classic Savile Row suits but I happily pair them with patterned shirts, aventgarde Jeffery West shoes, ties tied in unconventional knots etc.

You have to work out what suits you, take on board the traditional advice as sound foundation and then just have fun playing with colour, design and texture.

The one rule that I stick to is that if I see something that I like but I think that I couldn't wear it. I over-rule my inner voice and I will buy it. You are not here to blend in, you are here to stand out. As long as that is done with consideration to elegance and style it is all good in my book

[LordGrover]

craigjm said:

DuncanM said:

However I think that there is a balance between tradition and style, and obsessing over tradition can be as big a mistake as any imo. Ticking all the boxes on the 'correct way' list, doesn't guarantee anything really does it?

I agree entirely. I do not obsess over tradition.i take the advice of how something should be and then for me rules are there to be played with and broken. I have a number of classic Savile Row suits but I happily pair them with patterned shirts, aventgarde Jeffery West shoes, ties tied in unconventional knots etc.

You have to work out what suits you, take on board the traditional advice as sound foundation and then just have fun playing with colour, design and texture.

The one rule that I stick to is that if I see something that I like but I think that I couldn't wear it. I over-rule my inner voice and I will buy it. You are not here to blend in, you are here to stand out. As long as that is done with consideration to elegance and style it is all good in my book

Rules are for the guidance of wise men and the obedience of fools.
- Douglas Bader