Wheel stuck on hub: help.
Discussion
FiF said:
You need sufficient clamping force so that the tensile separation forces from cornering, say, don't exceed the clamping force, but not so much tension in the studs providing said clamping force, that when you get extra load from separation forces that you exceed the elastic limit of the studs, which then plasticly deform.
If the separation forces don't exceed the clamping load then the bolts don't see any additional load so there is nothing to push them into any hypothetical elastic limit.Mignon said:
FiF said:
You need sufficient clamping force so that the tensile separation forces from cornering, say, don't exceed the clamping force, but not so much tension in the studs providing said clamping force, that when you get extra load from separation forces that you exceed the elastic limit of the studs, which then plasticly deform.
If the separation forces don't exceed the clamping load then the bolts don't see any additional load so there is nothing to push them into any hypothetical elastic limit.The point is that you don't want so much preload on the joint that a normal separation load puts the total load on the bolt over the bolt yield load.
FiF said:
The load on the bolts comes from the preload *plus* any separation load.
No they don't UNLESS the fastened items are less stiff than the fastener such as when a soft gasket like paper or rubber is used. In a metal to metal joint like a wheel nut or bolt the fastener does not see any separation load unless this exceeds the preload. I suggest you read up on bolt theory again.FiF said:
Suggest the same for you. Bye.
Not so fast. If you want to sound off in here and then go run and hide then fine but other people will want to know the correct answer.http://www.boltscience.com/pages/basics2.htm
"In the case of this fastener no significant load increase would be sustained by the fastener until the applied load exceeded the fastener's preload. (Preload is the term used for a bolt's clamp force.)"
From the next page "What does happen is that the effect of the applied load is to decrease the clamp force that exists between the plate and the bracket."
If bolts felt the applied load as well as the clamp load from tightening them there'd be no point in tightening them!
https://mechanicalc.com/reference/bolted-joint-ana...
It's very easy to state that wheel assemblies are perfect rigid stiff metal to metal joints, this is far from reality. There are many reasons why out there things are different, which is actually the relevant discussion.
https://www.soe.org.uk/downloads/1452081366-Wheel%...
It's very easy to state that wheel assemblies are perfect rigid stiff metal to metal joints, this is far from reality. There are many reasons why out there things are different, which is actually the relevant discussion.
https://www.soe.org.uk/downloads/1452081366-Wheel%...
Old post, but I had this problem yesterday so did a bit of looking. Had puncture, wheel nuts off, no movement, scratch head. Kick wheel in frustration, nothing. Googled it, tried putting nuts back on (not tight just on) drop car, nothing, repeat, nothing, 5th time give up. Go to my garage seek hammer, hammer found, right you ******* wheel get ready for a pounding. Approach wheel with determination, then realise my neighbours brand new X3 (m) is only 3 feet away and metal hammer bouncing off tyre at a rate of knots could be expensive mistake. Ring dealers...what’s the secret to getting the wheel off? ... “call breakdown”. Breakdown operative booked, now stood waiting. Thinks, c’mon you can do this, I find a plasters plasterboard support prop, yes, wedge between rear wheels under the car and crank. Nothing. Kick wheel with even more force, attack, so far unmoved wheel, with gusto, pull push, swear, speak with neighbour, swear. Back to garage, 8 foot length of scant timber (3x2) and sledge hammer in hand I return to my now sworn enemy. Timber placed on inside edge of wheel under the car, other end balanced waiting for sledgehammer kiss...ping, wheel now free and off. ( operative cancelled) I spent the next 2 hours explaining to the missus what she needs to do when stuck on the hard shoulder of the M1 and changing a wheel. Now bought roof rack to carry several lengths of timber and different sledgehammers. Not a problem.
I’ve been to two tyre places now - they’ve tried everything including a blow torch and a jack between the wheel and upper arm but the wheel will not come off!
I’ve loosened the bolts and driven some distance (bumpy farm track) swerving at 20mph+
It’s solid! It’s a s
treon C1 and the tyre places have both said they don’t want to go too far as it’s a sealed bearing and very expensive to repair
Any more ideas? All I want to do is put a friggin tyre on it!
I’ve loosened the bolts and driven some distance (bumpy farm track) swerving at 20mph+
It’s solid! It’s a s
treon C1 and the tyre places have both said they don’t want to go too far as it’s a sealed bearing and very expensive to repairAny more ideas? All I want to do is put a friggin tyre on it!
schueymcfee said:
I’ve been to two tyre places now - they’ve tried everything including a blow torch and a jack between the wheel and upper arm but the wheel will not come off!
I’ve loosened the bolts and driven some distance (bumpy farm track) swerving at 20mph+
It’s solid! It’s a streon C1 and the tyre places have both said they don’t want to go too far as it’s a sealed bearing and very expensive to repair
Any more ideas? All I want to do is put a friggin tyre on it!
Yes, I've been faced with stuck wheels on many vehicles during my time working in a bodyshop and the same procedure always works.I’ve loosened the bolts and driven some distance (bumpy farm track) swerving at 20mph+
It’s solid! It’s a s
treon C1 and the tyre places have both said they don’t want to go too far as it’s a sealed bearing and very expensive to repairAny more ideas? All I want to do is put a friggin tyre on it!
Loosen the nuts
Jack up vehicle....with an axle stand ideally.
Get a large lump hammer or sledge hammer.
Lie behind the wheel and hit the tyre.....not the wheel....hard.
Rotate the wheel a few inches
Repeat until it comes off
bearman68 said:
FFS, big hammer, legth of wood. Hit the wheel with the hammer, and separate the damage with the lump of wood. If this doesn't work, get a bigger hammer. (But it will).
Wheel bearings are sealed units and mega expensive? Really? They need to man up, and get it sorted. (In my opinion)
Also, this. They sound like idiots.Wheel bearings are sealed units and mega expensive? Really? They need to man up, and get it sorted. (In my opinion)
V8covin said:
Yes, I've been faced with stuck wheels on many vehicles during my time working in a bodyshop and the same procedure always works.
Loosen the nuts
Jack up vehicle....with an axle stand ideally.
Get a large lump hammer or sledge hammer.
Lie behind the wheel and hit the tyre.....not the wheel....hard.
Rotate the wheel a few inches
Repeat until it comes off
Hitting the front is equally as effective and less gruesome if things go wrong - and you can hit it harder. It's fine to start hitting the tyre, and it will most often work, but when that doesn't, you need to hit the wheel, as the tyre just absorbs too much impact. But to avoid damaging the wheel - you can't hit it directly - it has to be through a block of wood. Loosen the nuts
Jack up vehicle....with an axle stand ideally.
Get a large lump hammer or sledge hammer.
Lie behind the wheel and hit the tyre.....not the wheel....hard.
Rotate the wheel a few inches
Repeat until it comes off
bearman68 said:
Hitting the front is equally as effective and less gruesome if things go wrong - and you can hit it harder. It's fine to start hitting the tyre, and it will most often work, but when that doesn't, you need to hit the wheel, as the tyre just absorbs too much impact. But to avoid damaging the wheel - you can't hit it directly - it has to be through a block of wood.
I bet I've done 50 wheels over the years and never hit the wheel,at least not on purpose 
Not as effective from the front, I disagree.
Nothing will go wrong if you leave the nuts on and use an axle stand
bearman68 said:
Fair enough.
I don't want to be under the car hitting the inside of the wheel, but each to their own - there's often more than 1 way of doing a job.
I wouldn’t eitherI don't want to be under the car hitting the inside of the wheel, but each to their own - there's often more than 1 way of doing a job.
My technique has always been - loosed wheel bolts or lug nuts (couple of turns is plenty)
jack up the corner
Support with axle stand lowering until wheel is just off the ground
Sit in front of the wheel and use my size 10’s to alternately flat sole the tyre on each side of the wheel - rotating the wheel to change the impact point
Never failed me yet
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