Big end bearing smashed can I just replace bearing?
Discussion
steveo3002 said:
good chance its dead or uneconomical repair
pics of the bolt arent helping...need to see what the crank and bore look like
prob easiest to look around for a used engine tbh
Well I'm a bit puzzled as to how this riveted bolt got onto the pan, here's a pic of underneath, can you make sense of it?pics of the bolt arent helping...need to see what the crank and bore look like
prob easiest to look around for a used engine tbh
See the missing bolt hole well this is not a riveted bolt like I showed, do wtf is going on?
How did this bolt pop out of piston and get into the sump?
Edited by RR76 on Sunday 19th July 11:28
steveo3002 said:
the top cut outs are meant to be there , bottom ones are from valve contact
cant say ive seen a bolt come out like that , but then im not fixing broken engines all day long
whats a used engine cost ?
Used engine is cheap £300 but fitting it will cost £1000-1500 at garage. I don't think I have the knowledge to work on the driveshafts, then you'd have the gearbox, clutch, it's a lot or work and I'm sitting in a public place with a basic set of tools.cant say ive seen a bolt come out like that , but then im not fixing broken engines all day long
whats a used engine cost ?
It's tempting but it may take a week, maybe less, then I'd have to remove and replace the engine from under the car( which I've don't before using jacks) but all in all its just too much.
I'll phone garage maybe it would be less than that to replace it but if be as well buying a new cheapo car.
GreenV8S said:
The engine is scrap. That means the car is probably beyond economic repair.
You can either sell it for parts now, or spend a lot of time and money trying to fix it and still end up selling it for parts later.
Ok thanks. Now I've just found a piston on eBay for next to nothing, the bearing are cheap also £10. You can either sell it for parts now, or spend a lot of time and money trying to fix it and still end up selling it for parts later.
Would you just out of curiousity replace this piston and bearing just to see the result, or you just know what would would happen?
Without grinding the crank journal your new bearing isn’t going to last long, not only from the scoring, you have no way of knowing that the journal is still round.
Also check the bore, that stud has been battering something on its way out of the conrod, most likely the bottom of the bore.
You will want to check those valves as well, it doesn’t take much to bend them.
This is not something that should be bodged on the cheap.
Also check the bore, that stud has been battering something on its way out of the conrod, most likely the bottom of the bore.
You will want to check those valves as well, it doesn’t take much to bend them.
This is not something that should be bodged on the cheap.
I think it's shagged, but what you do depends on the value of the vehicle etc.
If it's worth bugger all and a good used engine is cheap anyway, I'd stick a new bearing in that one rod, replace the bolt and nut, and see if it lives. I've done worse, there's a certain freedom in working on something of little value that's one foot in the grave already.
If the car is worth a decent chunk and a used engine is also not cheap, I'd bite the bullet and get it stripped and rebuilt properly.
If it's worth bugger all and a good used engine is cheap anyway, I'd stick a new bearing in that one rod, replace the bolt and nut, and see if it lives. I've done worse, there's a certain freedom in working on something of little value that's one foot in the grave already.
If the car is worth a decent chunk and a used engine is also not cheap, I'd bite the bullet and get it stripped and rebuilt properly.
The connecting rod is scrap, I wouldn't even consider trying to use that. Not only is it badly scored, with one bolt missing the chances are extremely high that the big end is no longer circular.
The crank might be recoverable with a regrind depending on how deep the scoring is. Add up the potential of bent valves, a replacement con rod and either a crank regrind or replacement crank, plus checking all the other bearings for damage and cleaning out all the oil ways and a good s/h engine is very likely to be cheaper.
BTW it's a big end bolt, pistons don't tend to have bolts!
The crank might be recoverable with a regrind depending on how deep the scoring is. Add up the potential of bent valves, a replacement con rod and either a crank regrind or replacement crank, plus checking all the other bearings for damage and cleaning out all the oil ways and a good s/h engine is very likely to be cheaper.
BTW it's a big end bolt, pistons don't tend to have bolts!
Trouble is, the OP has been given good advice right from post 2. But he is determined to ignore it, and go his own way. The more involved it getting, the more sure I am, and everyone else, is that this engine is toast.
The piston can only go back in from the top, so the cylinder head has to come off, an new gasket kit, almost certainly 4 new valves, and maybe more, ideally a new piston and shell bearings. And a s
t load of labour. For an engine that is almost guaranteed not to run properly, as the crank is stuffed.
Watching with interest.
The piston can only go back in from the top, so the cylinder head has to come off, an new gasket kit, almost certainly 4 new valves, and maybe more, ideally a new piston and shell bearings. And a s
t load of labour. For an engine that is almost guaranteed not to run properly, as the crank is stuffed.Watching with interest.
bearman68 said:
Trouble is, the OP has been given good advice right from post 2. But he is determined to ignore it, and go his own way. The more involved it getting, the more sure I am, and everyone else, is that this engine is toast.
The piston can only go back in from the top, so the cylinder head has to come off, an new gasket kit, almost certainly 4 new valves, and maybe more, ideally a new piston and shell bearings. And a st load of labour. For an engine that is almost guaranteed not to run properly, as the crank is stuffed.
Watching with interest.
Well I'm just kicking myself I made such a stupid mistake as running out of oil, of all things.The piston can only go back in from the top, so the cylinder head has to come off, an new gasket kit, almost certainly 4 new valves, and maybe more, ideally a new piston and shell bearings. And a s
t load of labour. For an engine that is almost guaranteed not to run properly, as the crank is stuffed.Watching with interest.
The cylinder head is already off that's how I took out the piston, I've checked the valves and at a first look they look ok. I'm a novice and inexperienced and I'm sure many others have thought the same that surely it can be hacked back together for cheap.
I was going to call salvage tomorrow and get it towed away then I found a piston on eBay. I think I'm just curious to see if it would work and beat the odds.
It would probably work for a week then I'd start to hear a knocking sound again and if that happened it would be the end for good.
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