Soldering Wire
Discussion
GreenV8S said:
julian64 said:
Okay so the magical non crush connectors are crush connectors.
I don't understand where you're getting that from. The pre-insulated crush connectors shown previously are a variation of crimp connector which is convenient but does not do a very good job.There is nothing else. Or at least nothing different that anyone's shown on this thread or that I've even seen. Still I'm not dead yet and PH may still prove illuminating.
Have often used both methods for joining conductors, proper fold type crimps and soldering
Soldering has always proved to be more reliable yet more time consuming, never ever have witnessed a good soldered joint fail
Witnessed plenty of failures with crush-ons due to the conductors not being grabbed properly or them being broken at the crush similar to what wire cutters achieve, the crush does sometimes become a cut
Had some failures with proper fold type crimps due to the conductors being cut
Doubt a good soldered joint will ever be beaten, can't see how one could be beaten as long as it's correctly insulated with adhesive heat-shrink
Manufacturing is all about cost, DIY doesn't cost anything
Solder for the DIYer is good
Soldering has always proved to be more reliable yet more time consuming, never ever have witnessed a good soldered joint fail
Witnessed plenty of failures with crush-ons due to the conductors not being grabbed properly or them being broken at the crush similar to what wire cutters achieve, the crush does sometimes become a cut
Had some failures with proper fold type crimps due to the conductors being cut
Doubt a good soldered joint will ever be beaten, can't see how one could be beaten as long as it's correctly insulated with adhesive heat-shrink
Manufacturing is all about cost, DIY doesn't cost anything
Solder for the DIYer is good
julian64 said:
Because you are making a distinct that doesn't exist. Either you CRUSH the wire between two metal surfaces or you SOLDER the wires to fuse them together.
Stopit posted some pictures of a style of crimp connector referred to as a crush connector. These do not have the conventional tabs that fold around the wire and can be crimped to it. Instead they have a round section opening which can be mashed down into an oval section to grab onto the wire. They're pretty naff. I much prefer the 'proper' style of crimped connector with separate tabs. This is the distinction I'm making between crush connectors and crimp connectors.Penelope Stopit said:
Have often used both methods for joining conductors, proper fold type crimps and soldering
Soldering has always proved to be more reliable yet more time consuming, never ever have witnessed a good soldered joint fail
Witnessed plenty of failures with crush-ons due to the conductors not being grabbed properly or them being broken at the crush similar to what wire cutters achieve, the crush does sometimes become a cut
Had some failures with proper fold type crimps due to the conductors being cut
Doubt a good soldered joint will ever be beaten, can't see how one could be beaten as long as it's correctly insulated with adhesive heat-shrink
Manufacturing is all about cost, DIY doesn't cost anything
Solder for the DIYer is good
Couldn't agree more. Soldering has always proved to be more reliable yet more time consuming, never ever have witnessed a good soldered joint fail
Witnessed plenty of failures with crush-ons due to the conductors not being grabbed properly or them being broken at the crush similar to what wire cutters achieve, the crush does sometimes become a cut
Had some failures with proper fold type crimps due to the conductors being cut
Doubt a good soldered joint will ever be beaten, can't see how one could be beaten as long as it's correctly insulated with adhesive heat-shrink
Manufacturing is all about cost, DIY doesn't cost anything
Solder for the DIYer is good
When people mention NASA, Boeing, BOAC, BEA etc they always fail to mention that their industrial equipment costs about three gazillion quid, they do not go to Halfords and buy some awful badly made crushing device for one shilling and sixpence.
mygoldfishbowl said:
Penelope Stopit said:
Have often used both methods for joining conductors, proper fold type crimps and soldering
Soldering has always proved to be more reliable yet more time consuming, never ever have witnessed a good soldered joint fail
Witnessed plenty of failures with crush-ons due to the conductors not being grabbed properly or them being broken at the crush similar to what wire cutters achieve, the crush does sometimes become a cut
Had some failures with proper fold type crimps due to the conductors being cut
Doubt a good soldered joint will ever be beaten, can't see how one could be beaten as long as it's correctly insulated with adhesive heat-shrink
Manufacturing is all about cost, DIY doesn't cost anything
Solder for the DIYer is good
Couldn't agree more. Soldering has always proved to be more reliable yet more time consuming, never ever have witnessed a good soldered joint fail
Witnessed plenty of failures with crush-ons due to the conductors not being grabbed properly or them being broken at the crush similar to what wire cutters achieve, the crush does sometimes become a cut
Had some failures with proper fold type crimps due to the conductors being cut
Doubt a good soldered joint will ever be beaten, can't see how one could be beaten as long as it's correctly insulated with adhesive heat-shrink
Manufacturing is all about cost, DIY doesn't cost anything
Solder for the DIYer is good
When people mention NASA, Boeing, BOAC, BEA etc they always fail to mention that their industrial equipment costs about three gazillion quid, they do not go to Halfords and buy some awful badly made crushing device for one shilling and sixpence.
mygoldfishbowl said:
Couldn't agree more.
When people mention NASA, Boeing, BOAC, BEA etc they always fail to mention that their industrial equipment costs about three gazillion quid, they do not go to Halfords and buy some awful badly made crushing device for one shilling and sixpence.
Although it was me that posted the NASA PDF, imagine going up in a rocket built with these bad boys:When people mention NASA, Boeing, BOAC, BEA etc they always fail to mention that their industrial equipment costs about three gazillion quid, they do not go to Halfords and buy some awful badly made crushing device for one shilling and sixpence.
Penelope Stopit said:
bluezedd said:
Although it was me that posted the NASA PDF, imagine going up in a rocket built with these bad boys:
I didn't click that link, but you wouldn't get me on one of them sky rockets if the electricals were done with those. Being serious I sometimes see a nice kit car where someone's put a lot of time and effort in spoilt by those awful blue crimps everywhere. Obviously everyone is different but I couldn't have that, I'd have to redo them all so at least they look professional.
Penelope Stopit said:
Having been educated by the super-glued clutch plate topic, it would be great if some company or other produced cable glue
Edit
Mmmm silly me, what was I thinking of
Someone many years ago produced a cable glue known as solder
As someone who solders more pipes than wires, I've seen a glue product masquerading as a replacement for plumbing solder... Every test of it I've seen reveals it works, to a point, but is generally ste by comparison to solder. Edit
Mmmm silly me, what was I thinking of
Someone many years ago produced a cable glue known as solder
Edited by Penelope Stopit on Wednesday 23 December 08:56
The other nearest thing I've seen to "cable glue" is conductive epoxy. Also I've tried out a paste solder that came in a little syringe when I was doing some SMD soldering - really needs a heat-gun I suspect, I found it difficult to control when I used it with a very fine iron (yes, I realise soldering irons aren't advisable for SMDs but I can do it with a very fine tip, fine solder wire and a good flux )
Couldn't point me at where to get the good crimps could you? I've got decent ratchet crimpers but when I do the yank test I have about a 50% success rate with the insulated crush-type.
donkmeister said:
As someone who solders more pipes than wires, I've seen a glue product masquerading as a replacement for plumbing solder... Every test of it I've seen reveals it works, to a point, but is generally ste by comparison to solder.
The other nearest thing I've seen to "cable glue" is conductive epoxy. Also I've tried out a paste solder that came in a little syringe when I was doing some SMD soldering - really needs a heat-gun I suspect, I found it difficult to control when I used it with a very fine iron (yes, I realise soldering irons aren't advisable for SMDs but I can do it with a very fine tip, fine solder wire and a good flux )
Couldn't point me at where to get the good crimps could you? I've got decent ratchet crimpers but when I do the yank test I have about a 50% success rate with the insulated crush-type.
Life would be too easy if some of this gear worked properly, wouldn't it?The other nearest thing I've seen to "cable glue" is conductive epoxy. Also I've tried out a paste solder that came in a little syringe when I was doing some SMD soldering - really needs a heat-gun I suspect, I found it difficult to control when I used it with a very fine iron (yes, I realise soldering irons aren't advisable for SMDs but I can do it with a very fine tip, fine solder wire and a good flux )
Couldn't point me at where to get the good crimps could you? I've got decent ratchet crimpers but when I do the yank test I have about a 50% success rate with the insulated crush-type.
Here are some links to crimping pliers
There are some very cheap none insulated terminal crimping pliers at these websites that are very similar to those that I have used in the past and they lasted for a few thousand crimping actions
https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product_lis...
https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/cable-termination.h...
Ooops, wasn't even close
The last ones I bought came from China found at ebay and they have proven to be good, some cheap terminals are a touch brittle and sometimes break near the crimp if put under physical load
You've probably seen these https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product_lis...
There's too many to choose from https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_n...
The last ones I bought came from China found at ebay and they have proven to be good, some cheap terminals are a touch brittle and sometimes break near the crimp if put under physical load
You've probably seen these https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product_lis...
There's too many to choose from https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_n...
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