Binding Handbrake Calipers
Discussion
Both rear handbrake mechs on my snotter are starting to sieze, it's got some miles on it and I've had this before on other cars and just replaced calipers but this time I'm into 2x £250 for the calipers and the car is at the point of not really being worth it.
A liberal application of GT85 when the Handbrake lever goes sloppy tends to work for a week or so but then they start to bind again, is there anything else I can do to get another 6 months or so out of these calipers? Is there a better lube out there?
A liberal application of GT85 when the Handbrake lever goes sloppy tends to work for a week or so but then they start to bind again, is there anything else I can do to get another 6 months or so out of these calipers? Is there a better lube out there?
Things like that (as you have found) are only ever going to work for a little while, better get something like Molycote 1000 in there or something similar.
Basically there is no substitute for getting in there stripping them down as far as you can & getting proper lubricant/anti-seize grease into where is seizing.
Basically there is no substitute for getting in there stripping them down as far as you can & getting proper lubricant/anti-seize grease into where is seizing.
As you know rear pads wear slowly , and calipers often begin to stick as the pads are around half worn area.
Often find just by fitting new pads, thereby winding the sticking threads back in, stops them binding. Means you dont get the full life of the pads, but extends the life of the calipers.
Worth trying, if the calipers still bind then you know they need more attention or replacing.
Often find just by fitting new pads, thereby winding the sticking threads back in, stops them binding. Means you dont get the full life of the pads, but extends the life of the calipers.
Worth trying, if the calipers still bind then you know they need more attention or replacing.
I will probably get some stick for this.... but i always squirt some brake fluid behind the dust seals on the pistons when i free off or change pads. I have a small bottle with a knozzel on and i carefully peel the cover back and squirt it behind. Then push or wind the piston back. Any excess fluid is forced out and wiped away.
When i have a second hand car, i usually strip and rebuild the callipers, same with bikes...
Recently done my jeep which had plastic pistons... replaced them with steel as the originals had swelled badly
When i have a second hand car, i usually strip and rebuild the callipers, same with bikes...
Recently done my jeep which had plastic pistons... replaced them with steel as the originals had swelled badly
9xxNick said:
Can you determine which part of the system is actually seizing? Pistons, operating lever pivot on the caliper (on VAG cars and maybe others), bell crank on some other vehicles and the cable itself are all candidates.
Yep it's a Ford but it's the same issue as the older VAG ones, the return spring looses it's power over time as the lever mech gets progressively stiffer to the point they eventually stop returning fully.As fir the full strip down photos, lovely job mate but I've neither got the time or inclination..
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