Mk3 Golf GTi non runner
Discussion
So i bought a none running Golf on impulse, on the face of it, it should clean up and make a decent car.
Its a MK3 2.0 8v
140k
What ive done so far.
Compression test all 4 cylinders are 150psi plus.
Drained the tank and filled with fresh fuel.
Have a good spark on all 4 plugs.
had the injectors out and they are working as they should ie not stuck off.
fuel pump cuts in and out as it should.
cambelt timing checked and correct.
The problem is it keeps flooding the plugs hence not starting. It was last run in September so its not been sat a long time.
Ive fitted a new coolant and crankshaft sensors but still nothing.
I'm at a loss now, really want to get it back on the road but starting to lose the will with it now.
Its a MK3 2.0 8v
140k
What ive done so far.
Compression test all 4 cylinders are 150psi plus.
Drained the tank and filled with fresh fuel.
Have a good spark on all 4 plugs.
had the injectors out and they are working as they should ie not stuck off.
fuel pump cuts in and out as it should.
cambelt timing checked and correct.
The problem is it keeps flooding the plugs hence not starting. It was last run in September so its not been sat a long time.
Ive fitted a new coolant and crankshaft sensors but still nothing.
I'm at a loss now, really want to get it back on the road but starting to lose the will with it now.
Likely to be the coil - have you seen a spark? Could also be a lose rotar arm within the coil, had this on a mk2 16v where it was sparking but the lose arm meant it was out of time...
Crank sensor is also another place to look - does the tacho move slightly when you crank to start? If no then no reading is coming through on cranking and it's probably dead.
Good luck and keep us posted, l like old VWs.
ClubGTI is a fountain of knowledge on these cars too.
RE code reader - you should have an OBD2 style connector but the car is OBD1. My Corrado VR6 has the same setup and you get basic codes using an OBD2 reader
Crank sensor is also another place to look - does the tacho move slightly when you crank to start? If no then no reading is coming through on cranking and it's probably dead.
Good luck and keep us posted, l like old VWs.
ClubGTI is a fountain of knowledge on these cars too.
RE code reader - you should have an OBD2 style connector but the car is OBD1. My Corrado VR6 has the same setup and you get basic codes using an OBD2 reader
Edited by VeeReihenmotor6 on Tuesday 21st November 10:48
bababoom said:
CorradoTDI said:
Is there an imobilisor?
Maybe check the ECU relay too
Is there a ECU relay? I'd have thought there would not be a spark at the plugs if it was faulty? Maybe check the ECU relay too
Is there a fuel pressure regulator?
Are the injectors injecting or open all the time?
Temp sensor giving a reading that matches that of freezing conditions?
Thoughts that come to mind that's all
bababoom said:
Yes sorry posted the wrong photo. The fault says speed sensor fault which Google says is the crank sensor and that it will always show this till the car has started, however it goes on to say if its faulty it wont start.
But i fitted a new crank sensor yesterday.
This is OK if you're just on ignition - on OBD1 cars the Crank Sensor fault will always show on ignition and disappear when engine is running. But i fitted a new crank sensor yesterday.
Pop out a HT lead and spark plug and test if you're getting spark. If you are take off the distributor cap and check the rotor arm is secure on its fixing, any play will mess up spark timing. If no spark then may well be dirty connection (or worn) in the distributor cap itself.
If you are getting play on the rotor arm a quick heath robinson fix to get it up and running is to drive a small screw in to lock it against the shaft. Will need a new rotar arm though long term.
Edited by VeeReihenmotor6 on Thursday 23 November 09:25
Edited by VeeReihenmotor6 on Thursday 23 November 09:26
You say you have spark.
If you disable the injectors (in some cases this may disable the spark too, so you may have to experiment by either by disconnecting them at the injector, or perhaps disconnecting the fuel pump or even leaving it all on and putting the fuel line into a bucket) so that they can't soak the plugs.
Then make sure the plugs are dry, check you still have spark and then try running it on easy-start.
Does it fire?
If yes then presumably its getting flooded out. And your spark and timing is OK.
If No then your spark is either not good enough, or at the wrong time.
(or engine isn't timed correctly, and/oror you have low compression, which according to the first post you have ruled out)
If you disable the injectors (in some cases this may disable the spark too, so you may have to experiment by either by disconnecting them at the injector, or perhaps disconnecting the fuel pump or even leaving it all on and putting the fuel line into a bucket) so that they can't soak the plugs.
Then make sure the plugs are dry, check you still have spark and then try running it on easy-start.
Does it fire?
If yes then presumably its getting flooded out. And your spark and timing is OK.
If No then your spark is either not good enough, or at the wrong time.
(or engine isn't timed correctly, and/oror you have low compression, which according to the first post you have ruled out)
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