Rubber o-ring for oil sump plug
Discussion
Hi,
After doing an oil change, I overtightened the bolt and ruined the thread. Instead of tapping out s larger bolt and using a helicoil, I was wondering if using a rubber o-ring would make a proper seal opposed to a copper crush washer. I know you can't use PTFE on the thread because of how it frays on tightening/under heat, but you could wrap PTFE inside and outside of the actual rubber o-ring to create a tighter seal (like wrapping a bandage round someone's arm). Would that also be okay or would the hot oil also degrade the PTFE in that setup?
After doing an oil change, I overtightened the bolt and ruined the thread. Instead of tapping out s larger bolt and using a helicoil, I was wondering if using a rubber o-ring would make a proper seal opposed to a copper crush washer. I know you can't use PTFE on the thread because of how it frays on tightening/under heat, but you could wrap PTFE inside and outside of the actual rubber o-ring to create a tighter seal (like wrapping a bandage round someone's arm). Would that also be okay or would the hot oil also degrade the PTFE in that setup?
Is it an aluminium sump? Threads are pretty easy stripped in these, but on the plus side they are also quite easy to tap or fit a coil into as the metal is so soft.
O ring won't work as crankcase is under pressure and if there's an easy outlet at the sump plug then the pressure will just push the oil out past your makeshift seal.
O ring won't work as crankcase is under pressure and if there's an easy outlet at the sump plug then the pressure will just push the oil out past your makeshift seal.
Decky_Q said:
Is it an aluminium sump? Threads are pretty easy stripped in these, but on the plus side they are also quite easy to tap or fit a coil into as the metal is so soft.
O ring won't work as crankcase is under pressure and if there's an easy outlet at the sump plug then the pressure will just push the oil out past your makeshift seal.
The thread isn't compromised, I just tightened it past the maximum (I don't know the correct way to say this), so the threads are there, there are just too many now which means there's not s tight seal.O ring won't work as crankcase is under pressure and if there's an easy outlet at the sump plug then the pressure will just push the oil out past your makeshift seal.
Very interesting about the pressure. Didn't even consider that, thank you. I'm happy to buy the helicoil kit, I'm fine to get stuck in but nervous with new things with cars. I'm not sure about the material.. it's s BMW e82 (1 series coupe)
jay44 said:
The thread isn't compromised, I just tightened it past the maximum (I don't know the correct way to say this), so the threads are there, there are just too many now which means there's not s tight seal.
Very interesting about the pressure. Didn't even consider that, thank you. I'm happy to buy the helicoil kit, I'm fine to get stuck in but nervous with new things with cars. I'm not sure about the material.. it's s BMW e82 (1 series coupe)
You said in your first post that the thread was ruined, which is it?Very interesting about the pressure. Didn't even consider that, thank you. I'm happy to buy the helicoil kit, I'm fine to get stuck in but nervous with new things with cars. I'm not sure about the material.. it's s BMW e82 (1 series coupe)
Someone else just asked this. Either a new sump (second hand from a scrappy), or drill and tap to the next size up, and use an ordinary bolt and copper washer to seal it. Ebay has all the bits, it'll be better to tap a new thread than use a helicoil IMO, and probably easier.
CrutyRammers said:
You said in your first post that the thread was ruined, which is it?
Someone else just asked this. Either a new sump (second hand from a scrappy), or drill and tap to the next size up, and use an ordinary bolt and copper washer to seal it. Ebay has all the bits, it'll be better to tap a new thread than use a helicoil IMO, and probably easier.
The disadvantage of tapping out the old thread is that you will need to obtain a suitable size tap and similar size drain plug and washer (which may not be readily available).Someone else just asked this. Either a new sump (second hand from a scrappy), or drill and tap to the next size up, and use an ordinary bolt and copper washer to seal it. Ebay has all the bits, it'll be better to tap a new thread than use a helicoil IMO, and probably easier.
Helicoils require a new thread to be tapped so it is probably best to Helicoil and take the thread back to original size. Then you can either use the original sump plug (providing it is not damaged) or buy an easily obtainable one from a dealer.
Some people consider thread inserts (Helicoil is only one of a number of brands for these) as bodges but in reality they are often used to provide a stronger thread during manufacture of aluminum parts in the factory.
There are kits available to recover stripped sump threads which use a threaded sleeve but these are usually for the trade and if you only need one then you finish up with, say, one and having to pay for the other ten that you will, hopefully, never need.
Dowry was her would work but as you require a thicker washer Ford used a nylon washer on various sumps and you can buy an assortment of tap washers that have nylon, fibre and rubber washers.
The best way would be to fix the thread problem, on the Ford Escort RS200 sump it’s a simple M10 bolt with a washer so a special sump plug is not needed
The best way would be to fix the thread problem, on the Ford Escort RS200 sump it’s a simple M10 bolt with a washer so a special sump plug is not needed
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